SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)

[TCFlowClyde]

You might stand a chance flipping it upside down

Probably the V.2 frame is the best bet to pair with big diameter Vivid. I do really like my MegNeg!

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

I don't think the shock placement and size will change for the CEF50 2024 models.
I know the CEF52 (Shimano Steps) will use the trunion shock design.
The only revisions I'm aware of is the udh and the chainguide provision. Technically, the rear axle will be different to accommodate for the udh. But that's what I've been told.

 

[92se-r]

I don't think the shock placement and size will change for the CEF50 2024 models.
I know the CEF52 (Shimano Steps) will use the trunion shock design.
The only revisions I'm aware of is the udh and the chainguide provision. Technically, the rear axle will be different to accommodate for the udh. But that's what I've been told.

Lower mount on shock has shifted forward as well as linkage to accomodate larger diameter air shocks/coils. You can see in latest pictures the difference. Subtle but there.

 

[Myalteregohamish]

Hi all.

I need some help.

I'm mounting my own cef50. I have one problem.

I buy a Shimano rotor with integrated magnet. But, if I spin the wheel I get 0 speed.

Anybody has the same rotor working?
Any help about troubleshooting this problem?

If not works I will have to buy a centerlock magnet¿?

Regards

How close is the magnet to the sensor? Pics please.

 

[mike_kelly]

How close is the magnet to the sensor? Pics please... and the sensor can rotate on the dropout. Make sure it lines up with the magnet on your rotor and then lock-tite it in.

 

[brbr]

Guys, I know you can help me decide
I'm finally building a bike for my wife, I said it hundreds of times but now I have to!
I have 3 options : LCE930 Size small / CEF50 size small / CEF52 size small
I will chose the lowest budget possible.
I'm waiting for the price of the CEF50 and 52 delivered to France.
The interesting thing is that I can have a E6100 which has the same bolt pattern as the ep8 for 99€, almost nothing...
She does not need a huge autonomy or power, she will mostly ride in the city and sometimes mellow trails, that's why I do not want a city bike.
What do you think ? As I already have a M820, I have the BESST tool, so it can be a plus to go for the bafang, but the DI2 ecosystem seems amazing with auto shift (maybe not compatible with low budget tho )

 

[92se-r]

I chose the cef50 over the lce due to the chainstay length being longer on lce. Additionally, i didnt like locked down nature of shimano motors when it comes to diy batteries.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Apologies everyone, I should have updated you all on the headset.

I opted to install the headset into my Nukeproof Megawatt. However, it WILL fit in the CEF50.

Truth be told, headset cable routing isn't so bad (imo). Moreso, it depends on what headset is used.

The very fact that this headset doesn't restrict the turning axis of the handlebars is appreciated. I've come across some which do.

No weird sounds coming from the headset area. And cables dont rattle against one another when riding. But as always, just grease and preload the headset as you would ordinarily.

Cable orientation (depending on your preference), is appreciated as well. Although, the port for the wire harness (or di2 cable in my case) has a dedicated port on the right side of the headset upper cover.

The stack height is fairly low, which is a good thing. So the headtube area doesn't increase monstrously because of the cable routing.

I'm running a 10mm spacers x2. But it can be ran with a single 5mm spacer if preferred, without causing issues for the cables and the stem. So I'm pleased that I've found a headset which works well for headset cable routing. And this will be my "goto" headset for future emtbs/mtbs I build.

Again, It will fit the CEF50 frames. Don't let the fact that I've used it on the megawatt fool you.

It will fit. And I suspect that newer CEF50 frame owners will probably receive this headset by default (if you opt for the headset cable routing design).

Hope this helps

 

[TCFlowClyde]

Apologies everyone, I should have updated you all on the headset.
View attachment 131825
I opted to install the headset into my Nukeproof Megawatt. However, it WILL fit in the CEF50.
View attachment 131826
Truth be told, headset cable routing isn't so bad (imo). Moreso, it depends on what headset is used.
View attachment 131830
The very fact that this headset doesn't restrict the turning axis of the handlebars is appreciated. I've come across some which do.
View attachment 131831
No weird sounds coming from the headset area. And cables dont rattle against one another when riding. But as always, just grease and preload the headset as you would ordinarily.
View attachment 131827
Cable orientation (depending on your preference), is appreciated as well. Although, the port for the wire harness (or di2 cable in my case) has a dedicated port on the right side of the headset upper cover.
View attachment 131828
The stack height is fairly low, which is a good thing. So the headtube area doesn't increase monstrously because of the cable routing.
View attachment 131829
I'm running a 10mm spacers x2. But it can be ran with a single 5mm spacer if preferred, without causing issues for the cables and the stem. So I'm pleased that I've found a headset which works well for headset cable routing. And this will be my "goto" headset for future emtbs/mtbs I build.
View attachment 131832
Again, It will fit the CEF50 frames. Don't let the fact that I've used it on the megawatt fool you.
View attachment 131838
It will fit. And I suspect that newer CEF50 frame owners will probably receive this headset by default (if you opt for the headset cable routing design).
View attachment 131837
Hope this helps

Way easier to install compared to the old for the upper headset. Dedicated display ports insure no friction points that wore down my display cable and dropper housing bare and guide the cables well, thus not having to fight for space between them.

Plus, there's no gap for water ingress which definitely happened to me leading to the dreaded creaking. (The upper cup is raised lip about 1 mm +/- closing the gap.). This time, I also went with the higher grade Phil Wood waterproof grease, and applied generously throughout the headset for a better seal.

Downside: since the upgraded upper headset has a thinner bearing 42 v 40, the bearing balls are smaller. In general, it's better to have the largest bearing balls possible, especially for the headset. I found the OEM bearings very low quality. I replaced them with premium grade Enduro 52/42--45/45°. $35 is relatively cheap for the higher quality. See link

ACB 4545 4252 SS - 1-1/2 inch stainless steel Angular Contact Headset Bearing (42mm x 52mm x 7mm; 45 x 45deg)

ACB 4545 4252 SS - 1-1/2 440C stainless steel Angular Contact Headset bearing (42mm x 52mm x 7mm; 45 x 45deg) - Angular-contact headset bearing featuring 440C stainless steel balls and races for superior corrosion protection. Not all stainless steel is created equal. Enduro only uses 440C...

cycling.endurobearings.com

And unfortunately, I found the lower headset was just junk as well and went to the premium upgrade: Acros 66 at the outset.

 

[thaeber]

I see You walking home…
I had 3 cable breaks with the canbus cable motor to display allready, with standard cable routing at E10 frame. Maybe they improved the cable, the current one lasts since 1.400 km. I allways take a spare withe me in my backpack. Good luck mate!

 

[TCFlowClyde]

I see You walking home…
I had 3 cable breaks with the canbus cable motor to display allready, with standard cable routing at E10 frame. Maybe they improved the cable, the current one lasts since 1.400 km. I allways take a spare withe me in my backpack. Good luck mate!

View attachment 131891 .

Yeah...it's an odd angle.. But no choice of course. I do have an extra display cable as a backup I'll take it on camping trips just in case the inevitable happens down the road

Makes a good case for wireless. The next gen of the Bafang display should be battery and Bluetooth, no cables to worry about.

 

[brbr]

Guys, I’m about to pull the trigger on the cef50 size small, do you have any rear fender to recommend? A large one if possible !

 

[92se-r]

I see You walking home…
I had 3 cable breaks with the canbus cable motor to display allready, with standard cable routing at E10 frame. Maybe they improved the cable, the current one lasts since 1.400 km. I allways take a spare withe me in my backpack. Good luck mate!

View attachment 131891

Great catch. I guess ill have to heatshrink all those sections to give it some mechanical support

 

[TCFlowClyde]

Great catch. I guess ill have to heatshrink all those sections to give it some mechanical support

Yeah agreed! I did heat shrink wrap to help close the appature better since it's bigger to make it more water tight. I should've done it higher through to the bends. I'll go redo if it looks like it needs it such as cracking or intermittent display connection.

Usually, Bafang makes 'em fairly tough. And I've hadn't problems with my past M600/M620. But they're also traditional side routing, so probably not a bad idea prior to the install due to the two acute dog leg routing.

 

[LAnton]

Guys, I’m about to pull the trigger on the cef50 size small, do you have any rear fender to recommend? A large one if possible !

MUD BLOCKER Rear Mudguard

Product Features - ACID Mud Blocker Rear Protects against wheel spray Frame protection foils to prevent scratching the seat stay Spray protection lip Optimised adjustment for maximum stability Product features Wheel...

www.bike-discount.de

I've tried a lot of wings. That's what I like the most. It protects well. You just need to fix it well. The clamps broke in the cold.

 

[Myalteregohamish]

DIY 240w range extender is done and passed the first test. Thank you @mike_kelly for your help and wisdom. Couldn’t have done it without you.

I wanted a comparison of the standard 720w battery range. I did a ride last week in sport+ which gave me 3700ft before it hit the 25% throttle limit. By the time I got to the top of climb I was at 4k and 14%.

My goal was to be able to get 5k in sport+ before hitting the 25% limit. After receiving the battery, ideal diodes and connectors. I started trying and failing to solder this all together. I’m going to detail out the process I took separately . There are other roads to get there but I’ll document mine.

I did a ride this afternoon which took me into the dark hours and sub freezing temps. I started in the wet and rain 37 degrees. As I climbed I hit the snow line and tried as I might it was getting to thick. Back down and try the lower elevation trails gave me a total of 3800 ft over 2hrs with a remaining 51% battery left. This puts me in clear range of 5k which I’ll try and attempt soon. Between the newness of the range extender and how the break in after a few charge cycles works and the freezing temps I think it will be a good permanent addition. Some pics below.

View attachment 131953 View attachment 131954 View attachment 131956 View attachment 131957

 

[92se-r]

Man this wait is excrutiating. I am starting to accumulate a pile of parts.

 

[Myalteregohamish]

Man this wait is excrutiating. I am starting to accumulate a pile of parts.

We call it “The great wait”

 

[TCFlowClyde]

View attachment 131959

Nice job.

Looks like you wired it to the main battery via the driveside motor guard fairing? Should be interesting to see your step-by-step process in the near future!

 

[patdam]

DIY 240w range extender is done and passed the first test. Thank you @mike_kelly for your help and wisdom. Couldn’t have done it without you.

I wanted a comparison of the standard 720w battery range. I did a ride last week in sport+ which gave me 3700ft before it hit the 25% throttle limit. By the time I got to the top of climb I was at 4k and 14%.

My goal was to be able to get 5k in sport+ before hitting the 25% limit. After receiving the battery, ideal diodes and connectors. I started trying and failing to solder this all together. I’m going to detail out the process I took separately . There are other roads to get there but I’ll document mine.

I did a ride this afternoon which took me into the dark hours and sub freezing temps. I started in the wet and rain 37 degrees. As I climbed I hit the snow line and tried as I might it was getting to thick. Back down and try the lower elevation trails gave me a total of 3800 ft over 2hrs with a remaining 51% battery left. This puts me in clear range of 5k which I’ll try and attempt soon. Between the newness of the range extender and how the break in after a few charge cycles works and the freezing temps I think it will be a good permanent addition. Some pics below.


View attachment 131953 View attachment 131954 View attachment 131956 View attachment 131957

I don't understand these values in comparaisson with mine ? 2 days ago 1200D+ , mostly in max power mode (with power variations ) and i have consummed only 22% ? I will mount the DPC245 HMI to compare if my use with DPC263 in 3 mode explain those difference

 

[calvintys]

Just finish build my bike 2 days ago and its DH feel similar to my Giga 290. I owm several big brand, from ibis intense, yeti, specialize, santa cruz to last nukeproof. I never been soo satisfied with my bike before. I am using 48v motor n battery.

 

[TCFlowClyde]

Just finish build my bike 2 days ago and its DH feel similar to my Giga 290. I owm several big brand, from ibis intense, yeti, specialize, santa cruz to last nukeproof. I never been soo satisfied with my bike before. I am using 48v motor n battery.

View attachment 131975

Got a full pic of your build?

 

[calvintys]

Got a full pic of your build?

 

[calvintys]

In my pass i own several high end bike from sb150, sp enduro 2020, megatower n now giga 290. I dont have those satisfaction that i have for this frame.. The DH feel its almost the same as my giga, very planted and stable. Cant wait to put in zeb buttercup, should be perfect build. My bike weight 19.3 with rear tire cushcore as on pic. Highly recommend frame.

 

[TCFlowClyde]

In my pass i own several high end bike from sb150, sp enduro 2020, megatower n now giga 290. I dont have those satisfaction that i have for this frame.. The DH feel its almost the same as my giga, very planted and stable. Cant wait to put in zeb buttercup, should be perfect build. My bike weight 19.3 with rear tire cushcore as on pic. Highly recommend frame.

Zebs are nice! I really like mine so far!

 

[brbr]

Guys, is there a good size to « understroke » the rear shock? The goal would be to lower the overall bike height, while losing bb height and travel, not a big deal for the use she will have.
I was initially thinking of using 200x50, or something similar, but when using all the travel, the rear triangle should hit the frame? If I’m right, I shiuld respect this formula:
New shock overall size - travel < 200 - 50 while new shock overall size being lower than 210.
Am I right on this?

 

[92se-r]

Guys, is there a good size to « understroke » the rear shock? The goal would be to lower the overall bike height, while losing bb height and travel, not a big deal for the use she will have.
I was initially thinking of using 200x50, or something similar, but when using all the travel, the rear triangle should hit the frame? If I’m right, I shiuld respect this formula:
New shock overall size - travel < 200 - 50 while new shock overall size being lower than 210.
Am I right on this?

That will hit something, you would be sitting 10mm deeper in travel as starting point, same as running a 60mm stroke. Correct my math if im wrong.

 

[brbr]

That will hit something, you would be sitting 10mm deeper in travel as starting point, same as running a 60mm stroke. Correct my math if im wrong.

Yeah that’s what I was thinking, I need to reduce the travel the same amount as I want to reduce the overall length.
200 instead of 210 —> travel 40 instead of 50, the problem is I might not find 200x40!
205x45 maybe but I’m not an expert in shock sizing

 

[TCFlowClyde]

Yeah that’s what I was thinking, I need to reduce the travel the same amount as I want to reduce the overall length.
200 instead of 210 —> travel 40 instead of 50, the problem is I might not find 200x40!
205x45 maybe but I’m not an expert in shock sizing

If you already have a 200 x 40 shock just mount and try it. If not, I wouldn't bother.

But I remember a mechanic at my local bike shop that I consulted with on my "overstroke" for CEF50, who is a big dirt jumper rider, giving me sage advice for this build...if it's WITHIN the E2E spec you can best predict kinematics...when you're out of the E2E, expect something funky. And usually not good results.

These guys were willing to over-stroke anything to experiment. And I doubt they were trying to understroke much for any reason. But lots of experience to heed. IMHO

I'm guessing working at a modern bike shop creates more opportunities for success/errors and at lower shop discount prices if negative consequences happen. But I took this to mean that it's safest to stay in the 210 E2E as a general rule of thumb.

 

[92se-r]

Offset bushings or go mullet is the right way to do it