Levo Gen 3 Specialized Gen 3 2022 Levo Megathread!

[Biketom]

Hello,

Could anyone please let me know wether the 2022 Gen3 S-Works Frameset does come with or without a headset?
Specification seem to be buggy (mentioning a 2.1 Brose motor for example).

Thanks,
Tom

 

[Twvandoren]

Hello,

Could anyone please let me know wether the 2022 Gen3 S-Works Frameset does come with or without a headset?
Specification seem to be buggy (mentioning a 2.1 Brose motor for example).

Thanks,
Tom

Yes, it comes with a head set and the angle adjusters so you can run -1, 0, and +1 degrees. It also comes with the SWAT tool that fits in the head tube. This is for a frame set bought in the USA.

 

[Biketom]

Thanks Twvandoren, that's good!
But you need to know, it's not shown on the website, right?

Hope it's the same in Germany...

Thanks again,
Tom

 

[Mikerb]

Thanks Twvandoren, that's good!
But you need to know, it's not shown on the website, right?

Hope it's the same in Germany...

Thanks again,
Tom

you most reliable information is going to come from whatever online/red brick vendor you buy from...........cos if it does not meet that description you get to send it back!!

 

[Han]

Thanks Twvandoren, that's good!
But you need to know, it's not shown on the website, right?

Hope it's the same in Germany...

Thanks again,
Tom

In Österreich gibts schon mit alles du brauchen (S-Works Rahmenset), Kurbelschutz auch dabei.

 

[Biketom]

Hello,

thanks everyone for the help on the S-Works Frameset. I really appreciate this international forum!! Best regards to Austria

If there is anyone in Germany or Austria, who wants to offer a S5 frameset, feel free to do so...

Tom

 

[mike172]

Going back to the rattle/knocking people have

I am wondering if its the Fox X2 that makes the knocking and the vibration to go with it? Both the X2 Elite (that came with the expert) and my new X2 factory do this. One member said it might be oil flowing through the compression circuits on a previous page so it maybe completely normal. The shock itself is very good but I get a light 'knock/thud' as a cycle the shock quickly and its most notable when going slow-ish over something like roots or braking bumps. It drives me to distraction sometimes

Sounds as though the shock bolts are a little loose - don't think they are, there is no play in them at torque. I have a 2019 Stumpjumper which has loose bolts and am confident its not that. Ive tried PTFE tape on the bolt to try remove any play, made sure there is thread lock on the bolt, greased the bolt. Tried at different shock pressures all tests gave me the same noise.

I've checked battery and even bolstered it with gorilla tape as a DIY spacer. It doesn't move up/down/left/right and riding without the battery in place still gave me the same knock.

Ive checked and cleaned the headset repeatedly and gone back and forth between the cups, star nuts and the Specialized tool. Replaced the entire headset assembly with hope stuff. feels nice and tight

I am going to try my superdeluxe ultimate (probably on Monday) as I know that doesn't make a noise (other than air hissing, the shock is so smooth its incredible) and get the X2 off for a service see if it can be improved if the knocking stops.

Highly doubt its the cable routing, cant imagine that causing the knock/thud like vibrations I get. Plus I've jammed stuff down the tubes under the cables to stop any noises from them.

I am getting there with this bike - slowly. Love the geometry and the way it rides

 

[etoni]

anyone have an idea why a 34 chainring is installed? with 34 it needs more power and uphill is limited.
178cm S3 perfect

 

[mike172]

anyone have an idea why a 34 chainring is installed? with 34 it needs more power and uphill is limited.
178cm S3 perfect
View attachment 79122

Because Ebike

I find it annoying riding with analogue riders. Even on 5% up hills I can't go as slowly as they do so end up getting off and walking

May replace it with a 32t

 

[Gutch]

Going back to the rattle/knocking people have

I am wondering if its the Fox X2 that makes the knocking and the vibration to go with it? Both the X2 Elite (that came with the expert) and my new X2 factory do this. One member said it might be oil flowing through the compression circuits on a previous page so it maybe completely normal. The shock itself is very good but I get a light 'knock/thud' as a cycle the shock quickly and its most notable when going slow-ish over something like roots or braking bumps. It drives me to distraction sometimes

Sounds as though the shock bolts are a little loose - don't think they are, there is no play in them at torque. I have a 2019 Stumpjumper which has loose bolts and am confident its not that. Ive tried PTFE tape on the bolt to try remove any play, made sure there is thread lock on the bolt, greased the bolt. Tried at different shock pressures all tests gave me the same noise.

I've checked battery and even bolstered it with gorilla tape as a DIY spacer. It doesn't move up/down/left/right and riding without the battery in place still gave me the same knock.

Ive checked and cleaned the headset repeatedly and gone back and forth between the cups, star nuts and the Specialized tool. Replaced the entire headset assembly with hope stuff. feels nice and tight

I am going to try my superdeluxe ultimate (probably on Monday) as I know that doesn't make a noise (other than air hissing, the shock is so smooth its incredible) and get the X2 off for a service see if it can be improved if the knocking stops.

Highly doubt its the cable routing, cant imagine that causing the knock/thud like vibrations I get. Plus I've jammed stuff down the tubes under the cables to stop any noises from them.

I am getting there with this bike - slowly. Love the geometry and the way it rides

Buy an 11-6 Shock and be done with the air!

 

[Hob Nob]

Going back to the rattle/knocking people have

I am wondering if its the Fox X2 that makes the knocking and the vibration to go with it? Both the X2 Elite (that came with the expert) and my new X2 factory do this. One member said it might be oil flowing through the compression circuits on a previous page so it maybe completely normal. The shock itself is very good but I get a light 'knock/thud' as a cycle the shock quickly and its most notable when going slow-ish over something like roots or braking bumps. It drives me to distraction sometimes

I think it’s more than likely the frame, rather than the shock. I ran a few different options on mine to try and improve the overall performance/feel (coil and air) - they all felt sticky/knocky at a point in the travel.

I have run a Float X2 & a DHX2 on my Kenevo SL and they feel totally different to the Levo, but then they mount a more traditional way which allows for some ‘flex’ in the system for potential minor misalignments.

I also run a Float X2 on my normal bike & it feels the same, with no knocks, or stickiness.

Remain convinced it’s the clevis mount system they persist with which causes the issues.

 

[mike172]

Buy an 11-6 Shock and be done with the air!

Just spent my life savings on a factory X2 lol

I think it’s more than likely the frame, rather than the shock. I ran a few different options on mine to try and improve the overall performance/feel (coil and air) - they all felt sticky/knocky at a point in the travel.

I have run a Float X2 & a DHX2 on my Kenevo SL and they feel totally different to the Levo, but then they mount a more traditional way which allows for some ‘flex’ in the system for potential minor misalignments.

I also run a Float X2 on my normal bike & it feels the same, with no knocks, or stickiness.

Remain convinced it’s the clevis mount system they persist with which causes the issues.

Interesting thanks

Just the way the clevis system operates and cycles the shock or the mounting eyelets and hardware? I only know rear suspension from my stumpy and the levo so don't know any better unfortunately. I do think the eyelets are stupid. As was the flip chip on the stumpy

Bit cowboy but I did remove the shock and rest it on the frame behind where the upper shock mount sits and it still makes the same noise

Definitely gonna try the superdeluxe. I'll have a look at shimming the bolts or mounting hardware with tape too to see if there actually is play there

 

[Jamo]

Hi, I have some questions around the +/- 1deg headset cups. Has anybody got the lip of the cup to sit flush with the frame. Here is mine, just cant get it to sit flush:

I can tap it in flush before the fork steerer is installed but as soon as the steerer is in and its all nipped up i get this gap. Like there is a bit of leverage from the steerer that will nolonger allow it to sit neatly. Which leads to second question - possibly linked. In putting the +/- headset cup in I’ve used the steerer spacer that comes in the bag with the spare cup (actually there are 2, a shorter and a taller spacer). These spacers have a small compression o-ring around the outside edge and fit snuggly into the cup inner diameter. So its a better fit in terms of sealing out water etc yet the bike didnt ship like this and leads me to wonder why. Are these specifically for the +/- headset or just an option? There’s nothing in the manual about them as far as i can see.

When i first fitted the slackset cup with the standard fsa top cap i felt a slight bit of play, but less so with these proprietary spacer things - in fact doing a wee test in the garage it all seems snug…..but I’m paranoid about headset play and hate seeing any small gaps in the cups. Just doesn’t sit right (pardon the pun, i’ll get my coat ).

 

[Zimmerframe]

Here is mine, just cant get it to sit flush:

I think that might be normal. It's come up with levo's and Kenevo's repeatedly over time where people were convinced it sat flush before they did something. Obviously they're not the adjustable/exchable versions, but they generally sit with about a 0.5 - 0.1mm gap.

 

[Mikerb]

I think that might be normal. It's come up with levo's and Kenevo's repeatedly over time where people were convinced it sat flush before they did something. Obviously they're not the adjustable/exchable versions, but they generally sit with about a 0.5 - 0.1mm gap.

Surely you have to change both the upper and lower headset cap to change the angle of the steerer. I dont understand how it can be achieved by just changing the the upper cap.....the lower cap will keep the steerer at its original angle??

 

[Jamo]

Surely you have to change both the upper and lower headset cap to change the angle of the steerer. I dont understand how it can be achieved by just changing the the upper cap.....the lower cap will keep the steerer at its original angle??

the lower cup/bearing is a conical seating to allow it to adjust

 

[Mikerb]

the lower cup/bearing is a conical seating to allow it to adjust

In which case it will need to be rotated to suit whatever top cup angle is used. It looks like the OP has fitted a steeper top cap but not rotated the lower cap so it will not sit properly.

 

[Gutch]

In which case it will need to be rotated to suit whatever top cup angle is used. It looks like the OP has fitted a steeper top cap but not rotated the lower cap so it will not sit properly.

Hmm, I never rotated my bottom cap? Mine looks identical to the OP.

 

[Jamo]

The manual specifically says to do nothing with the lower cup and bearing, as it self adjusts

 

[Mikerb]

The manual specifically says to do nothing with the lower cup and bearing, as it self adjusts

mmm........ It assumes of course the correct lower cup and bearing are fitted on the bike and not a standard set!!

 

[Squamish Sucks]

I’ve had mine with the -1° headset since day one, about 2000km. Here’s how mine sits, never had an issue with any play.

 

[Jamo]

I’ve had mine with the -1° headset since day one, about 2000km. Here’s how mine sits, never had an issue with any play. View attachment 79190

any chance of a side on photo as cant see how flush that is from that angle. Cheers!

 

[Zimmerframe]

any chance of a side on photo as cant see how flush that is from that angle. Cheers!

It "looks" perfect, but I think it has the usual gap to some degree ??

 

[Repsol]

Well the ownership of my new Levo comp carbon isn't going as expected, had 1st bike replaced last week and the new one is now saying firmware update needed! I noticed it the day it was delivered and dealer informed me it had been done day before but may take a while to clear. Within an hr it disappeared at which point it hadn't been used, went out on it yesterday for first time only for the diagnostic warning symbol to come back on saying exactly same thing, latest firmware update needed, this can only be done by specialized dealer. I'm starting to become pi$$Ed off with this now, is this right that it can be done remotely as the dealer said it had been done. I would have thought it would enstall instantly especially given that it was done day before it was delivered, the first bike never did this?

 

[Squamish Sucks]

Yup, has the usual gap.

 

[Jamo]

@Squamish Sucks thanks very much for that, agree it has the same gap. Interestingly your gap is at the front of the cup, so i guess you’ve made it slacker and the lever effect is lifting the front. I’ve made mine 1 deg steeper so makes sense my gap is at the back of the cup. Cheers again.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Well the ownership of my new Levo comp carbon isn't going as expected, had 1st bike replaced last week and the new one is now saying firmware update needed! I noticed it the day it was delivered and dealer informed me it had been done day before but may take a while to clear. Within an hr it disappeared at which point it hadn't been used, went out on it yesterday for first time only for the diagnostic warning symbol to come back on saying exactly same thing, latest firmware update needed, this can only be done by specialized dealer. I'm starting to become pi$$Ed off with this now, is this right that it can be done remotely as the dealer said it had been done. I would have thought it would enstall instantly especially given that it was done day before it was delivered, the first bike never did this?

You should be able to do the update via the Mission Control App.

@Specialized Rider Care

 

[Stompweaver]

@Jamo Gap is normal. I have the -1 in mine and it’s the same. No need to do anything to the lower cup, it’s self-aligning.

@Repsol open Mission Control app, connect to the bike and then force close it. Open it again and the diag message will be gone. The “take to the dealer for a firmware update” message is a known issue with the MC app. The last updates were March 2020 so I doubt yours will have any parts in it manufactured before then.

 

[Repsol]

@Jamo Gap is normal. I have the -1 in mine and it’s the same. No need to do anything to the lower cup, it’s self-aligning.

@Repsol open Mission Control app, connect to the bike and then force close it. Open it again and the diag message will be gone. The “take to the dealer for a firmware update” message is a known issue with the MC app. The last updates were March 2020 so I doubt yours will have any parts in it manufactured before then.

Cheers pal, will give it a go, I've checked all parts and all appear to have latest software.
Motor firmware 7:4:2
Hardware 021201042901211622

Battery firmware 2:5:4
Hardware 4:0

 

[Stompweaver]

@Repsol yeah you are all up to date. Force close MC with it connected to the bike, reopen it and the message should be gone. As it’s a known issue don’t worry about it, there’s nothing wrong with your bike.