Kenevo SL Official 2022 Kenevo SL (KSL) Megathread!

Toto1974

New Member
Jan 27, 2022
6
17
Germany
FAD2C090-B90F-4543-8582-5DD733963478.jpeg

Ready to Ride
 

George_KSL

Active member
Sep 11, 2021
255
292
Slovak Republic
Beautiful ! Exactly aesthetic I went for with my KSL build. I deliberated for 2 months which frame to use, pure-black Comp or the S-Works.

No competition, the S-Works is the most stunning, but I see I was right with going comp for me.. even in stealth build, the logo "screams" :- ). For someone like me, that's too much, but for someone who has the swagger for it, all the power!

The current Fox stickers are kind of generic, I would think of swapping them for some custom lettering to better align, for example the Heritage (in white of course) was much nicer. I think pure "38" in big letters like old Marzocchi 66 would be also badass :- )
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,698
10,329
UK
I've had the shock for a while. I took it off my Rail today and fitted it to the KSL.
 

Doomanic

🛠️Wrecker🛠️
Patreon
Founding Member
Jan 21, 2018
8,698
10,329
UK
How easy is it to remove the gear cable? Don’t need to replace it; got AXS to go on… 😎
 

Stumpi

New Member
Dec 9, 2021
8
20
Melbourne Australia
Hey all,

Love this thread, I've found it really good....

Thought I'd join the party with a coiuple of pics and some thoughts on my S3.
Coming from a Large Levo SL I was expecting to want to run this bike Mullet as thats how I got my LSL to trun and behave in a more lively fashin, but after experimenting I definitely prefer it 29x29 unless, I do a shuttle day in the super steeps and the I'll throw in the 27.5 but generally leave the bike 29x29 and high/steep.
I quite like the trail feel it gives, its similar (ish) to the Levo SL which I really loved but found it got a bit wayward in the rear end when pushed hard, hence, I bought the KSL..
Rather than buy an S-works at the silly money they want, I built mine from the ground up on a Comp frame with Line pro 30s, Zeb Ultimates, PUSH 11-6 (475lbs spring - I'm 88kg) full AXS, One Up bars and Deity finishing kit.
I read some previous comments about the rear feeling a bit more lively than the front and can agree when it was on air, but as soon as I added the 11-6 all that went away.. I run the open circuit on soft DH and the firm circuit in trail and its just a revelation of a shock... And it's only 300 grams more than the float X... WARNING.. I tried to fit a Factory Float X initially but the compression can is longer on these than the non compression Float X specialized spec.. The factory will hit the seat post arch, they need to be modified...
As for brakes, I pondered this a lot, but for familiarity and convenience when with Code RSCs, (or course with oilslick bolts lol) I just can't fault them...
Praxxis 170mm carbon crank arms and XTR trail pedals..
Tyres are Maxxis, 2.5 Assegai EXO+ Maxx Gripp front, 2.4 Dissector EXO Maxx Terra rear with a Cushcore
XX1 Chain and cassette...
All up it goes 19.4 on the scales, with pedals and I have to say I'm really really happy with it..

I have struggled with the Zebs and have to say after my Lyrik Ultimates am disappointed so far, have tried 1,2,3 tokens and various pressures from 57 to 76 and have not been able to find the sweet spot with enough support but a subtle top end, so have ordered a Vorsprung Luftcappe to hopefully sort them... They have either felt firm with good mid stroke support when decending and no small bump compliance or soft and divey if I run them compliant for small bumps....

What else? wheels, Bonty Line Pro 30 carbon.. teyre great wheels and at 1750 grams are stupid light fo the performance they offer, plus, if I smash em I have a two year replacement warranty and lifetime manufacturing...

Have been riding MTB properly now since my late 20s... I'm an "enthusiastic" rider but at 52, know my limits... I could never want for more bike now... Infact, maybe she's got me into a trouble already a couple of times lol.....

IMG_3022.jpg


jump.jpg


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ghost48

Member
Jan 25, 2019
23
28
Germany
Received those manuals and schematics from Specialized. Thought it would be useful to you guys as well. Have Specilizeds permission to share them on the forum. Pretty cool guys there.

Edit: Due to size I had to split Small Part manual into two pdfs.
 

Attachments

  • 2022 KENEVO SL - CABLE SCHEMATIC.pdf
    8.7 MB · Views: 400
  • 2022 KENEVO SL - SUSPENSION SCHEMATIC.pdf
    10.9 MB · Views: 244
  • 2022 KENEVO SL - FRAMESET ASSEMBLY GUIDE.pdf
    9.8 MB · Views: 304
  • 2022 KENEVO SL - SMALL PARTS SCHEMATIC-1-12.pdf
    13.5 MB · Views: 214
  • 2022 KENEVO SL - SMALL PARTS SCHEMATIC-13-24.pdf
    12.7 MB · Views: 214

George_KSL

Active member
Sep 11, 2021
255
292
Slovak Republic
Hei Stumpi, I am fellow KSL + ZEB Ultimate rider, here is my setup. I had multiple ZEB forks, in fact it's my most favourite fork after long line of Fox 36 Floats of every assortment and generation. But what you write is kind of true.. it's bit of personal preference.

On my lighter Capra29, I run (I am 177cm and was 86kg then) 64 PSI, LSR 9 clicks from Closed, Compression fully open, stock token on 170 (I think one).
On KSL I did the same but I couldn't run it much because of COVID complications... and I am bit heavier at 88kg now plus the bike is heavier so here is what I will alter in following month:

I will probably go up to 68-70 PSI and ZERO tokens. That has been preferable setup by lot of pros, including the BlisterReview guys. This fork is wallowing when run at lower pressure with tokens.

For me the small bump compliance is excellent, but it's not apparently as stuck to ground like Fox38. Why I didn't like 38 more, is that in exchange, 38 runs bit lower in ride-height, requiring higher cockpit setup. I don't like that really, even if it means superior small bump.

I run aggressively on front, and want my fork to stay really high in travel. ZEB has already such big negative that I am not sure if Luftkappe will do much for you, although the little-can they sell would.

But it sounds like you might be more of Fox38 kind of guy. Or EXT.
 

Stumpi

New Member
Dec 9, 2021
8
20
Melbourne Australia
I run aggressively on front, and want my fork to stay really high in travel. ZEB has already such big negative that I am not sure if Luftkappe will do much for you, although the little-can they sell would.

But it sounds like you might be more of Fox38 kind of guy. Or EXT.

Hey, thx for the reply,
I'm definitely not a fox guy, have run, Revs, Pikes, Lyrik and now Zeb since 2010.. I love the way RS forks ride.
On my Levo SL I ran Lyrik Ultimates and simply loved them, they were literally set and forget which is what I was expecting with the ZEB, hwever thats not been the case, I've even been tempted to go back to Lyriks on my KSL given how good they were previously.. A lesson learned for me I guess..

I'll try your setting with zero tokens, its not something Ive tried yet... As for the LuftCappe, there are a few reviews on YT suggesting its a great mod, one particular guy seems to have gone through my exact scenario and it helped him...

I'll update when I have it fitted...

Thanks again...
 

George_KSL

Active member
Sep 11, 2021
255
292
Slovak Republic
Given that you tried going as high as 3 tokens, you might perhaps do benefit from Luftkappe in different way that I used it previously ( I needed to make old RC2 '18 36 softer of the top). The ZEB Luftkappe is so massive that it takes the volume of token or two by itself. If you keep the pressure as before (or even add a bit to compensate the increased (well...lowered) sag point) it should be lot more progressive without harshness.
But then again... internet reviews of "I bought expensive tuning feature" are full of placebo "suddenly everything is amazing!".
Now I am kinda curious. Do you have the latest (2022) version of ZEB? It has different air-shaft already, domed on top.
 

rb.

Active member
Apr 27, 2020
388
262
San Jose, usa
My local bike shop told me that to do the rear brake they were just removing the air from the shock, and with the suspension compressed it was “super easy” to route the rear brake above the motor. I have a set of Hayes Dominions I’ve been wanting to put on, but have been procrastinating. Will update how it goes for me. Lol
With the help of the park tool hose routing tool, and letting the air out of the shock, getting my new brakes routed turned into a 10 minute job with zero struggle. (Now bleeding them was a different story, lol). Did not touch the motor or battery.

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rb.

Active member
Apr 27, 2020
388
262
San Jose, usa
Cockpit finally set up the way I want it (for now) with the Dominions, Deity bar/stem/grips, the skinnier non-matchmaker clamps, and OneUp multi tool. Would like a wolftooth dropper lever, but that’s purely luxury as the stock works fine. Also the cables are a mess, but unless I got AXS I think this is as good as it will get.
FC132D3C-E492-4B46-BD60-07B3E6F2C895.jpeg
 

ebikerider

Active member
Oct 1, 2019
706
484
Australia
Cockpit finally set up the way I want it (for now) with the Dominions, Deity bar/stem/grips, the skinnier non-matchmaker clamps, and OneUp multi tool. Would like a wolftooth dropper lever, but that’s purely luxury as the stock works fine. Also the cables are a mess, but unless I got AXS I think this is as good as it will get.
View attachment 82796
How do you find going from moto front brake on the right to mtb front brake on the left?

Also, not to encourage you to spend more money but the Wolftooth dropper lever is such an improvement over standard. Money well spent imo.
 

rb.

Active member
Apr 27, 2020
388
262
San Jose, usa
How do you find going from moto front brake on the right to mtb front brake on the left?

Also, not to encourage you to spend more money but the Wolftooth dropper lever is such an improvement over standard. Money well spent imo.
I ride mtb and moto for the last 20 years and never once had any issue with the brakes being different. Now that being said, I always disliked owning 2 mountain bikes at once because I could never get comfortable on bikes with different geo/sizing. Especially going between ebike and normal bike, would throw me way off and take half the ride to get comfortable again. I know, first world problems. Lol
 

erdawe

New Member
Jul 18, 2021
1
0
RM West, USA
My new OneUp is auto-dropping when I hop on and I'm not sure if install is correct.

I wanted to know if I am the only one on an S3 size with a 150mm OneUp 34.9 dropper that is auto engaging when the dropper is lowered to the frame's built-in stop point. When I have the seat raised 3-4 cm is starts working.

I am not trying to have it slammed to the seat collar, but rather the built in carbon frame stop to give ideal seat height.

Yes, I have short legs, and long torso.
 

ebikerider

Active member
Oct 1, 2019
706
484
Australia
My new OneUp is auto-dropping when I hop on and I'm not sure if install is correct.

I wanted to know if I am the only one on an S3 size with a 150mm OneUp 34.9 dropper that is auto engaging when the dropper is lowered to the frame's built-in stop point. When I have the seat raised 3-4 cm is starts working.

I am not trying to have it slammed to the seat collar, but rather the built in carbon frame stop to give ideal seat height.

Yes, I have short legs, and long torso.
My Manic did this too. Try pulling the outer of the cable thru the frame more so it stops actuating the actuator or take some tension off at the lever when you insert the post to where you want it.
 

R3Z3N

Member
Mar 2, 2022
82
64
California
^Correct, just means you have too much tension on your cable, like you are semi-pressing the lever. If you change insertion depth, you need to also caress the dropper housing/cable in/out of the frame a little, and maybe adjust at the remote as well.

Got my first rides on on my KSL Comp S4. I really love that I can adjust the geo during the week. I ride a little DH trail in our park for exercise, but its quite smooth, and weekends is almost all SoCal Chunk (look up cold springs trail). I am surprised that I have so many pedal strikes with this frame though. I would get a thinner pedal, but then dropper situation worsens, or shorter cranks, and still the dropper situation worsens for my inseam.

I am in the best shape of my life (6ft 3" 185lbs) but not near as fit as my buddies with no family that ride 3-4 times during the week at night another 10-20miles with lights (or 50mi on weekend!). I keep dialing down the power modes to force myself more workout (I have 2 profiles, one for workouts, 1 for weekends when I just want to keep up). I honestly loathe exercise, but what I do love is accomplishing a climb with friends. Still torn if I keep this or go back to my analog bike, purely because I don't get stoked climbing with any e-bike, especially in technical climbs where endo or wheelie turns are needed.

I find the Float X Performance actually very good due to the "RX" tune, but looking into purchasing the LSC knob kit and retrofitting, should be as easy as pulling the plastic cap on as it is captured by a reverse flange on the cap. I did change to the next size volume spacer as stock I was able to bottom out on a 2 foot drop where I smash the bike into the landing of the next corner.

BTW I am trying to find if anyone makes a larger rear fender that bolts on, as well as something that covers more between the pivot points to stop throwing debris into the shock tunnel. Sadly RideWrap does not include a piece that fits the tunnel :-(

Also hoping someone comes out with something to use the extra space in the bottom tube by the motor like a swat bag....

Trespass Trail out by Gaviota/Santa Barbara CA
And the climb is perfect for the SL
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George_KSL

Active member
Sep 11, 2021
255
292
Slovak Republic
I thought of taking the tiny fender on rear off, photoscanning it quickly and modelling larger piece but I am too lazy/stressed for that these days. It definitely would benefit from it since it's already there, one that would extend to bottom as well. It could be just as invisible visually as the current one. I mean, why isn't it at least 2cm wider anyway, it barely covers 1.8" tyre..
 

Stupordave

Member
Feb 12, 2022
2
7
Golden
First ebike ride, finally, after having a new bike sitting in the garage for over a month. Still fairly nasty weather on the Colorado front range, so opted for mostly rock (and snow as well), technical trail I ride often from my home. Ive been riding mtb’s for almost 25 years and what a different experience. Tons of smiles, but wheel drops, tight tech, and tight switchbacks were odd for me with the motor assist. Couldn’t seem to get my timing down right.

Could be exacerbated by the fact I bought an S4 (5’11”), and both my Evils are mediums, but felt like it was more me timing my cranks correctly to get the bike to do what I wanted. I’m sure with some more ride time I’ll get it, but worried I‘m going to have trouble switching back and forth between bikes as I still plan to use my other bikes on most rides. Just wanted the Kenevo SL for bigger mountain days, greater than 3000’ of climbing.

Anyone else struggle going back and forth, or do I just need more ride time to get used to the assist?

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