I mean V2 frame motor cover and i received my frame on Jan 2024.
SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)
- Thread starter TCFlowClyde
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TCFlowClyde
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- Thread starter
- #3,362
I think he has a Version 2 frame for the coil fitment (V2) and generation 3 (gen 3) motor guard.
Looks like the Gen 3 can take a hit.
I'm still waiting for more field data before, and if I buy one!
Anyone tried Rocky mode? is it working?
TCFlowClyde
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- #3,364
No Rocky mode. Just boost...which is speculated to be about 85-90%+/- of EP801's boost mode. It's continuos duration as well.
For boost mode... By default on my remote when i press + to max until it has B does it mean Boost or i need to double press + to enable itNo Rocky mode. Just boost...which is speculated to be about 85-90%+/- of EP801's boost mode. It's continuos duration as well.
TCFlowClyde
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- #3,366
Just normal one-push to max or boost.
No one has gotten the "super boost" that is found in Bafang docs to work.
Myalteregohamish
Active member
Ok so far I’ve hit that area a number of times over the last few weeks and it seems to be holding up better.I think he has a Version 2 frame for the coil fitment (V2) and generation 3 (gen 3) motor guard.
Looks like the Gen 3 can take a hit.
Neeko DeVinchi
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I wonder how easy it would be to retrofit the DP-E165 DIsplay to the CEF50
I don't think any variant or generation of the frame would need reworking.
Moreso, just a revised top tube plate.
...Food for thought!!
I don't think any variant or generation of the frame would need reworking.
Moreso, just a revised top tube plate.
...Food for thought!!
Myalteregohamish
Active member
I’m not sure about that. That’s a pretty big cut out.I wonder how easy it would be to retrofit the DP-E165 DIsplay to the CEF50
View attachment 132867
I don't think any variant or generation of the frame would need reworking.
View attachment 132869
Moreso, just a revised top tube plate.
View attachment 132870
...Food for thought!!
I would not want it. Have to bend my head too far down to see it. I prefer it up higher on the handlebars.
TCFlowClyde
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- #3,372
Yeah, it's a small surface area. Slightly bigger than a USD quarter coin. I tried to be creative (and a little rebellious) with my skull theme and just glued a metal Jolly Roger pennant on to it in order to be at least "functionally cosmetic".
I know it's a little off center. But so am I with my humor.
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TCFlowClyde
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- #3,373
Me too...it's ok to be on the top tube with good peripheral vision but it's optimal to be more centerish on the bars and probably safest to watch the trail in front simultaneously.
so LED lights for the M820, what are people doing???
I was going to make a little 'bike-brain-power' PCB< that takes power from the main battery to offer 12v output (lights), 8.2v (Di2 power), (5v USB) or other, to ACC on the bike, this could be LED lights, USB C ports and or electroinc gears and E-dropper. (YES, lights would be swtiched from the display controller, M820 would fire a relay to trigger the bike-brain-power PCB< this way we can get more power for lights that bafang offer on the wire its only 6w)
Eikes should really have e-controls IMO, all powered from bike power, piss off the large manual cables and remote batterys that you need to recharge and just charge the bike, so I would make a E-dropper adapter, ( Button interface for regular droppers)as I can't afford a ASX dropper, Gears would be bike powered electronic gears, (Di2 or Sram)
I have been playing with Di2 for years, and found I could do a budget Di2 system, using just a Di2 rear DER and junction A box, I can use junked bits for the rest to get a fully working Di2 system....
first I made a USB rechargeable DI2 battery for my non ebikes, but using the Bike-Brain-power PCB for Di2, that is powered from the Eike battery is overall a better idea. less stuffing around charging many batterys, I also made my own Di2 shifters, as at the time, the current ones were costly or rubbish...
My M820 Bike is on order so will start main Bike-Brain-power PCB first..
would anyone be interested in a PCB if I added E-dropper to it???? it would not be wireless, as it makes everything bigger and more complex, I would hardwire it all w tiny cables inside the bar running to the headset holes in my case... the only solid cable would be the rear brake cable...the rest would be electronic cables, might make using headset cables a lot better...
thoughts?? Ideas???
K
I was going to make a little 'bike-brain-power' PCB< that takes power from the main battery to offer 12v output (lights), 8.2v (Di2 power), (5v USB) or other, to ACC on the bike, this could be LED lights, USB C ports and or electroinc gears and E-dropper. (YES, lights would be swtiched from the display controller, M820 would fire a relay to trigger the bike-brain-power PCB< this way we can get more power for lights that bafang offer on the wire its only 6w)
Eikes should really have e-controls IMO, all powered from bike power, piss off the large manual cables and remote batterys that you need to recharge and just charge the bike, so I would make a E-dropper adapter, ( Button interface for regular droppers)as I can't afford a ASX dropper, Gears would be bike powered electronic gears, (Di2 or Sram)
I have been playing with Di2 for years, and found I could do a budget Di2 system, using just a Di2 rear DER and junction A box, I can use junked bits for the rest to get a fully working Di2 system....
first I made a USB rechargeable DI2 battery for my non ebikes, but using the Bike-Brain-power PCB for Di2, that is powered from the Eike battery is overall a better idea. less stuffing around charging many batterys, I also made my own Di2 shifters, as at the time, the current ones were costly or rubbish...
My M820 Bike is on order so will start main Bike-Brain-power PCB first..
would anyone be interested in a PCB if I added E-dropper to it???? it would not be wireless, as it makes everything bigger and more complex, I would hardwire it all w tiny cables inside the bar running to the headset holes in my case... the only solid cable would be the rear brake cable...the rest would be electronic cables, might make using headset cables a lot better...
thoughts?? Ideas???
K
TCFlowClyde
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- Thread starter
- #3,375
This dropper is $400 USD and wires directly to the motor or main battery not sure which. It's OEM now but available next year.
Limotec EP1 dropper post first ride review – the first dropper post especially designed for e-bikes
Features
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My E-dropper interface, would be for the dropper you already have!!This dropper is $400 USD and wires directly to the motor or main battery not sure which. It's OEM now but available next year.
Limotec EP1 dropper post first ride review – the first dropper post especially designed for e-bikes
Features
View attachment 132941 View attachment 132942
TCFlowClyde
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- #3,377
But how rig a wired dropper to be wireless? Servo needed right?
Yeah so, for my bike, it would NOT be wireless, as it makes everything bigger and more complex and need to charge other batterys, stuff that I am lazy as....like a car, I want it to all run from one main battery....so my interface would just be a wired button on my bar to my PCB that drives the servo... wireless just add extra work and stuffing around IMO, hardwired is the way i fly...
TCFlowClyde
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- #3,379
Ok gotcha...I think. No cable for dropper but electronic wire instead to run off main battery with servo and PCB (?). Does that sound right?
I'm thinking the new direct battery e-dropper is the way forward. I run old AXS shifting, so one less hard cable would be nice.
But it would be interesting to see your idea in action when your build is up and running.
So a central brain PCB w on board power for LED lights, USB C and E-dropper, just as you said, using the dropper you have, or a cheap one, and a wired button to PCB to servo, the E-drop is just a function of the central power PCB, that makes it easy for everyone to add extra stuff to the bike, by tapping power from the main batt... my custom Di2 gear levers would also have a extra button for my dropper....Ok gotcha...I think. No cable for dropper but electronic wire instead to run off main battery with servo and PCB (?). Does that sound right?
I'm thinking the new direct battery e-dropper is the way forward. I run old AXS shifting, so one less hard cable would be nice.
But it would be interesting to see your idea in action when your build is up and running.
K
THe 245 already has usb on the handlebars...
its a PCB and a small servo really, buttons will be lighter than chunly alloy gear controls. so I might be lighter!!
I mean the quick-charge usb-ports etc. but nevermind...
do you have a git or something regarding your DI2-engineering?
I feel I lost the weight battle when I selected 700whr battery ahaha
... My Di2 stuff not so much engineering, more just plain hacking, its nothing fancy, I just add the correct voltage to the older Di2 'external battery' module, there is a little part inside that, that does all the work... I just add power to it and use the can bus module from old junked Di2 levers and make my own buttons, turns out pretty cheap and pretty lite.... I go around bikes shops and for pretty much nothing they are happy to sell or given away junk Di2 bits
really?? so I used the little part inside the Shimano SM-BMR2 (external battery holder) as long as all the firmwares are the same it all works for me, road, MTB everything, just then, to confim, I plugged in a brand new XTR M9050 der and it works even w its current stock firmware... if you have a FRONT DER in the system, things are blocked, but w no front D< road bits will work w MTB bits.....all you need is the module from SM-BMR2, a rear DER, a Junction A and a shifter module (from inside the shift lever)
Hey! I am designin the exact same thing
I use seeduino xiao and nrf24l01 and a servo, it’s working, I designed the 3d model to insert in the seat tube, but I don’t have a 3d printer, I will work with a friend to test it.
Honestly, wired will be mich easier as you can use only 1 arduino, but you need to run the cable…
Regarding the servo, I used a metal 9g but it fits exactly in the seat tube and not sure it’s powerful enought
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