SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)
- Thread starter TCFlowClyde
- Start date
According to previous discussion there´s no performance gain only a question of what battery layout and size you want. 36v for lighter battery and 43v for heavier and larger capacity.
Also the bottle battery's are 36v if you are looking for a good extension solution.
I plan to buy the battery housing itself and use it to make a battery by a friend. I do not know what capacity it will be able to make of it, but I know that I do not want it to be very heavy (3.5 kg MAX!) I would like to have a minimum range of 100 km when driving in difficult terrain and my weight is 90 kg.
I also do not know whether to use 18650 or 21700 cells.
This will be my first bike build so I have a lot to learn
I also do not know whether to use 18650 or 21700 cells.
This will be my first bike build so I have a lot to learn
Just in case someones interested, I plan on selling the frame+motor+battery (bt f014) + nukeproof headset + nukeproof axle or the whole bike, not even 100km ridden.
Why?
Its my first assisted mtb and I noticed that I enjoy more the non electric one + living in a small place doesnt help with having several bikes.
Im in Spain so shipping to EU shouldnt be an issue and of course I dont want to get any benefit from it just what I payed for it and gifting all the upgrades I did to the frame
Why?
Its my first assisted mtb and I noticed that I enjoy more the non electric one + living in a small place doesnt help with having several bikes.
Im in Spain so shipping to EU shouldnt be an issue and of course I dont want to get any benefit from it just what I payed for it and gifting all the upgrades I did to the frame
write to me how much you want for the set (engine, frame, battery) and describe the specification of the parts you have installed, maybe something else will be useful. And what frame size?
What you're saying, I've already tried it all. I advise you to order a ready-made battery for 720W 36V with a good 21700 Samsung 50E. If you want to make the bike lighter, you can always remove the heavy battery case (1kg). Fasten the battery to an aluminum strip with bolt holes. See how the bafang battery with clamps is made. I plan to make the same bar and attach the battery to it. Why protect the battery with a heavy case if it is inside carbon fiber.
So it is best to choose a 36V motor? Since there is no difference in efficiency and power between 36-48V. I understand that on a 36V battery there will be no problem with getting rid of the 25Km/h blockade? Because I do not hide that I want it to support at least up to 35 km/h
When it comes to Batteries, I just want to have a housing modeled on it, thanks to which it will be much easier for us to design a lighter battery. It is possible that this housing will not even go to the bike
Let me check how much I paid for it (I know I paid cheaper cause prepaid it in december!) but it was something like 1800€ incl shipping etc for frame/bat/motor
Frame is size L and regarding components:
- Shock rockshox superdeluxe ultimate 210x50 almost new (300km)
- fork rockshox lyrik ultimate 29 160mm brand new
- brakes shimano slx 7120 4pot
- custom wheels ztto m1 hubs, sapim dlight and dt xm481/m502 rims 29
- cassette xt 10/51 with 100km / shifter xt / derailleur slx, 12 speed, xt chain 8100 chain new.
- oneup 180mm dropper
- renthal fatbar handlebar 760mm
- nukeproof headset and axle
- extra hanger
mvrlik
New Member
Interested, please PM me (I am new so can't). Thank you
Wlecome @mvrlik
@Polak_B
Since you are new to building eMTB I would advise strongly that you do not attempt to build your own battery. Lithium batteries are dangerous. We all use them but they require knowledge and skill to make. I spent years designing and building recreational drones. But one small mistake filled my whole house with smoke. Luckily I got it outside before it ignited into fire. The headlines in the US today are 4 people died in New York due to a ebike fire.
It is certainly possible to DIY a battery but I would not recommend it unless you have a mentor who has done it before successfully helping you onsite.
Building a bike yourself is very satisfying but maybe your first should be with a commercial battery.
Cheers and good luck
Since you are new to building eMTB I would advise strongly that you do not attempt to build your own battery. Lithium batteries are dangerous. We all use them but they require knowledge and skill to make. I spent years designing and building recreational drones. But one small mistake filled my whole house with smoke. Luckily I got it outside before it ignited into fire. The headlines in the US today are 4 people died in New York due to a ebike fire.
It is certainly possible to DIY a battery but I would not recommend it unless you have a mentor who has done it before successfully helping you onsite.
Building a bike yourself is very satisfying but maybe your first should be with a commercial battery.
Cheers and good luck
@mike_kelly peace of mind, the battery will be handled by my friend who has been creating packages and designing enclosures for a long time. Another friend who is a professional and does it amazingly will take care of painting the frame. I will be mainly responsible for assembling components and matching them together 
thaeber
Well-known member
Why do You think a 43V 12S setup would be better in the original housing that was designed for a 36V 10S4P 21700 cells pack?
I assume there´s an original housing for 43v? And that would give more wh.
Last edited:
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #1,905
Cooler desert ride today. Spring for us is over. We're expecting the usual 110F° + humidity (for us it's tough) in the next few days!
BTW one veteran Emtb hack to save up to 150g+ is the crop cranks and dropper. With shorter cranks comes a shorter dropper need. Because I use 155 cranks this raises my effective inseam and decreases my dropper post length to 150 mm.
For comparison, on my former analog bikes, I had 175 cranks with 175 dropper post. The shorter, the greater the weight savings.
Plus, less chance of pedal strikes during rowdy descents or techy ascents.
The only possible disadvantage is when you drained your battery and have no power...the shorter cranks are a shorter lever arm producing less torque needed w/out power. But hopefully you'll have your battery extenders to avoid this minor dilemma.
BTW one veteran Emtb hack to save up to 150g+ is the crop cranks and dropper. With shorter cranks comes a shorter dropper need. Because I use 155 cranks this raises my effective inseam and decreases my dropper post length to 150 mm.
For comparison, on my former analog bikes, I had 175 cranks with 175 dropper post. The shorter, the greater the weight savings.
Plus, less chance of pedal strikes during rowdy descents or techy ascents.The only possible disadvantage is when you drained your battery and have no power...the shorter cranks are a shorter lever arm producing less torque needed w/out power. But hopefully you'll have your battery extenders to avoid this minor dilemma.
Last edited:
A question for those who have built up their frames.
i am surprised the cable guides travel down the top tube and seat tube and not straight down the downtube. The "corner" between the top tube and seatube is pretty tight.
My cadence sensor was not connected and has a 4 ping connector when the M820 requires a 6 pin connector. They have an adapter in place but unconnected. I need to check and see if they used the correct cadence sensor for the M820.
Thanks
I should have asked is there any reason not to run the cables down the downtube except cables slapping .
I see that the plastic cable guides are just stuffed up the seat tube. I thought they when all the way to the headtube but they are just to guide the cables through the stays.
i am surprised the cable guides travel down the top tube and seat tube and not straight down the downtube. The "corner" between the top tube and seatube is pretty tight.
My cadence sensor was not connected and has a 4 ping connector when the M820 requires a 6 pin connector. They have an adapter in place but unconnected. I need to check and see if they used the correct cadence sensor for the M820.
Thanks
I should have asked is there any reason not to run the cables down the downtube except cables slapping .
I see that the plastic cable guides are just stuffed up the seat tube. I thought they when all the way to the headtube but they are just to guide the cables through the stays.
Last edited:
ISIS Crank arm measurements for the M820
Outside to inside overall. Offset only
Bafang 27.7mm 8.2mm 220g
FSA 27mm 9.3mm (Bosch Gen 4 arms) 205g per arm
Miranda Q8 29mm 9.4mm
MIranda Q8FB 32mm 12.5mm 155g per arm
Outside to inside overall. Offset only
Bafang 27.7mm 8.2mm 220g
FSA 27mm 9.3mm (Bosch Gen 4 arms) 205g per arm
Miranda Q8 29mm 9.4mm
MIranda Q8FB 32mm 12.5mm 155g per arm
Last edited:
Myalteregohamish
Active member
That was an interesting point about your inseam and how much dropper you then need. Never considered that.Cooler desert ride today. Spring for us is over. We're expecting the usual 110F° + humidity (for us it's tough) in the next few days!
BTW one veteran Emtb hack to save up to 150g+ is the crop cranks and dropper. With shorter cranks comes a shorter dropper need. Because I use 155 cranks this raises my effective inseam and decreases my dropper post length to 150 mm.
For comparison, on my former analog bikes, I had 175 cranks with 175 dropper post. The shorter, the greater the weight savings.
The only possible disadvantage is when you drained your battery and have no power...the shorter cranks are a shorter lever arm producing less torque needed w/out power. But hopefully you'll have your battery extenders to avoid this minor dilemma.
View attachment 118522 View attachment 118523 View attachment 118524 View attachment 118525
Myalteregohamish
Active member
This frame looks familiar, is it ours? Minus the motor mounts for the shimano in this case. It’s 150mm rear and 160mm front.
With the miranda Q8FB, my feet are flat on the pedals. Previously, my feet were shifted outwards to the edge of the pedals.
Myalteregohamish
Active member
That's interesting to. I think that explains my feet positioning.
I think the wider "Q8FB" will be better for me too and the Q8 for my wife's bike.
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #1,913
It's got rear triangle seatstay crossbar, ours doesn't. That still freaks me out a bit....but it's a big rocker-arm of solid carbon to resist lateral flex. Seems to work well.
.
It does look similar doesn't it. Rocker is different, same rear end stays, top tube is thin and the curve up to the seatpost is similar.
Myalteregohamish
Active member
I was wondering with these smaller vendors how many these designs make the rounds from vendor to vendor.
The dengfu E09 also did not have a rocker arm.Degfu made rocker on E10.It's got rear triangle seatstay crossbar, ours doesn't. That still freaks me out a bit....but it's a big rocker-arm of solid carbon to resist lateral flex. Seems to work well.
Last edited:
Herculesridesebikes
New Member
I've been heavily considering building up one of these Frames, whats the consensus of the strength and build quality? would it stand up to bigger jumps and rough trails? I currently ride and 2018 carbon stumpjumper running a 160mm fork and have never been worried about a break even when im pushing it at bike parks, im hoping to get the same from this bike if I choose to build one up. What do you guys think?
Hey,
I’m thinking of the seatstay crossbar discussed few posts earlier
you can check also the lightcarbon, which is a bit heavier and maybe more robust
I’m thinking of the seatstay crossbar discussed few posts earlier
Herculesridesebikes
New Member
yeah, my orignal idea was to upgrade a orbea H30 then I considered a E10/22 and stumbled across this thread which definally peaked my interest. The CEF50 being such a light platform with the m820, and for the price it seems too good to be true. I just wonder how it holds up.Hey,
you can check also the lightcarbon, which is a bit heavier and maybe more robust
I’m thinking of the seatstay crossbar discussed few posts earlier
Last edited:
Read the Light Carbon post. I asked Jim. It is possible to jump on your frame and why it is heavier than the CEF50. What was the answer?Hey,
you can check also the lightcarbon, which is a bit heavier and maybe more robust
I’m thinking of the seatstay crossbar discussed few posts earlier
Similar threads
EMTB Forums
Latest articles
-
The most reliable motor brand (in Norway)
A poll was posted on a big Norwegian emtb facebook group. There are...- Knut Nes
- 3 min read
- Views: 1K
- Reaction score: 5
- Comments: 6
-
2025 Canyon Spectral:ONfly CF Ltd review
We were quite surprised to read about the new lightweight Canyon...- Knut Nes
- 7 min read
- Views: 971
- Comments: 1