According to previous discussion there´s no performance gain only a question of what battery layout and size you want. 36v for lighter battery and 43v for heavier and larger capacity.Can you tell me which version to choose? 36V 43V or maybe 48V??? what are the pros and cons of a given voltage?
write to me how much you want for the set (engine, frame, battery) and describe the specification of the parts you have installed, maybe something else will be useful. And what frame size?Just in case someones interested, I plan on selling the frame+motor+battery (bt f014) + nukeproof headset + nukeproof axle or the whole bike, not even 100km ridden.
Why?
Its my first assisted mtb and I noticed that I enjoy more the non electric one + living in a small place doesnt help with having several bikes.
Im in Spain so shipping to EU shouldnt be an issue and of course I dont want to get any benefit from it just what I payed for it and gifting all the upgrades I did to the frame
What you're saying, I've already tried it all. I advise you to order a ready-made battery for 720W 36V with a good 21700 Samsung 50E. If you want to make the bike lighter, you can always remove the heavy battery case (1kg). Fasten the battery to an aluminum strip with bolt holes. See how the bafang battery with clamps is made. I plan to make the same bar and attach the battery to it. Why protect the battery with a heavy case if it is inside carbon fiber.I plan to buy the battery housing itself and use it to make a battery by a friend. I do not know what capacity it will be able to make of it, but I know that I do not want it to be very heavy (3.5 kg MAX!) I would like to have a minimum range of 100 km when driving in difficult terrain and my weight is 90 kg.
I also do not know whether to use 18650 or 21700 cells.
This will be my first bike build so I have a lot to learn
So it is best to choose a 36V motor? Since there is no difference in efficiency and power between 36-48V. I understand that on a 36V battery there will be no problem with getting rid of the 25Km/h blockade? Because I do not hide that I want it to support at least up to 35 km/hWhat you're saying, I've already tried it all. I advise you to order a ready-made battery for 720W 36V with a good 21700 Samsung 50E. If you want to make the bike lighter, you can always remove the heavy battery case (1kg). Fasten the battery to an aluminum strip with bolt holes. See how the bafang battery with clamps is made. I plan to make the same bar and attach the battery to it. Why protect the battery with a heavy case if it is inside carbon fiber.
write to me how much you want for the set (engine, frame, battery) and describe the specification of the parts you have installed, maybe something else will be useful. And what frame size?
Interested, please PM me (I am new so can't). Thank youJust in case someones interested, I plan on selling the frame+motor+battery (bt f014) + nukeproof headset + nukeproof axle or the whole bike, not even 100km ridden.
Why?
Its my first assisted mtb and I noticed that I enjoy more the non electric one + living in a small place doesnt help with having several bikes.
Im in Spain so shipping to EU shouldnt be an issue and of course I dont want to get any benefit from it just what I payed for it and gifting all the upgrades I did to the frame
Wlecome @mvrlikInterested, please PM me (I am new so can't). Thank you
Why do You think a 43V 12S setup would be better in the original housing that was designed for a 36V 10S4P 21700 cells pack?21700 is a no-brainer and the 43v for increased range layout is probably your best bet if you are going to use original battery housing.
I assume there´s an original housing for 43v? And that would give more wh.Why do You think a 43V 12S setup would be better in the original housing that was designed for a 36V 10S4P 21700 cells pack?
That was an interesting point about your inseam and how much dropper you then need. Never considered that.Cooler desert ride today. Spring for us is over. We're expecting the usual 110F° + humidity (for us it's tough) in the next few days!
BTW one veteran Emtb hack to save up to 150g+ is the crop cranks and dropper. With shorter cranks comes a shorter dropper need. Because I use 155 cranks this raises my effective inseam and decreases my dropper post length to 150 mm.
For comparison, on my former analog bikes, I had 175 cranks with 175 dropper post. The shorter, the greater the weight savings. Plus, less chance of pedal strikes during rowdy descents or techy ascents.
The only possible disadvantage is when you drained your battery and have no power...the shorter cranks are a shorter lever arm producing less torque needed w/out power. But hopefully you'll have your battery extenders to avoid this minor dilemma.
View attachment 118522 View attachment 118523 View attachment 118524 View attachment 118525
With the miranda Q8FB, my feet are flat on the pedals. Previously, my feet were shifted outwards to the edge of the pedals.ISIS Crank arm measurements for the M820
Outside to inside overall. Offset only
Bafang 27.7mm 8.2mm 220g
FSA 27mm 9.3mm (Bosch Gen 4 arms) 205g per arm
Miranda Q8 29mm 9.4mm
MIranda Q8FB 32mm 12.5mm 155g per arm
View attachment 118535
That's interesting to. I think that explains my feet positioning.With the miranda Q8FB, my feet are flat on the pedals. Previously, my feet were shifted outwards to the edge of the pedals.
I think the wider "Q8FB" will be better for me too and the Q8 for my wife's bike.With the miranda Q8FB, my feet are flat on the pedals. Previously, my feet were shifted outwards to the edge of the pedals.
It's got rear triangle seatstay crossbar, ours doesn't. That still freaks me out a bit....but it's a big rocker-arm of solid carbon to resist lateral flex. Seems to work well..This frame looks familiar, is it ours? Minus the motor mounts for the shimano in this case. It’s 150mm rear and 160mm front. View attachment 118586
It does look similar doesn't it. Rocker is different, same rear end stays, top tube is thin and the curve up to the seatpost is similar.This frame looks familiar, is it ours? Minus the motor mounts for the shimano in this case. It’s 150mm rear and 160mm front. View attachment 118586
I was wondering with these smaller vendors how many these designs make the rounds from vendor to vendor.It does look similar doesn't it. Rocker is different, same rear end stays, top tube is thin and the curve up to the seatpost is similar.
The dengfu E09 also did not have a rocker arm.Degfu made rocker on E10.It's got rear triangle seatstay crossbar, ours doesn't. That still freaks me out a bit....but it's a big rocker-arm of solid carbon to resist lateral flex. Seems to work well..
you can check also the lightcarbon, which is a bit heavier and maybe more robustI've been heavily considering building up one of these Frames, whats the consensus of the strength and build quality? would it stand up to bigger jumps and rough trails? I currently ride and 2018 carbon stumpjumper running a 160mm fork and have never been worried about a break even when im pushing it at bike parks, im hoping to get the same from this bike if I choose to build one up. What do you guys think?
yeah, my orignal idea was to upgrade a orbea H30 then I considered a E10/22 and stumbled across this thread which definally peaked my interest. The CEF50 being such a light platform with the m820, and for the price it seems too good to be true. I just wonder how it holds up.Hey,
you can check also the lightcarbon, which is a bit heavier and maybe more robust
I’m thinking of the seatstay crossbar discussed few posts earlier
Read the Light Carbon post. I asked Jim. It is possible to jump on your frame and why it is heavier than the CEF50. What was the answer?Hey,
you can check also the lightcarbon, which is a bit heavier and maybe more robust
I’m thinking of the seatstay crossbar discussed few posts earlier
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