Myalteregohamish
Active member
Sorry if this has been asked already, has anyone opened their m820 to regrease it? I’m getting an increasing squeak from inside.
SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)
- Thread starter TCFlowClyde
- Start date
Easy to open. First remove C clip at the drive side, than unscrew few bolts aroint the housing. There is no need to unscrew 3 bolts from the motor itself at non drive side.
When putting back together do not overtight the bolts arout motor housing.
thaeber
Well-known member
Looks like professional work here. Did You already assemble the motor and do a test ride? Reduced noise level / whining?
I have done about 100km after I putt it back together. Noise level I roughly the same. Used molykote pg75 grease.
There is a paper/fiber gasket on the M820 that is easy to tear apart as one side adheres to the cover and the other side to the motor housing. Since there are no replacements available...
I greased one motor and did not grease the other. No difference in the short term.
100% right. Thick paper gasket have to be separated nicely when dismantling the motor. I have a ploter so will cut new gasket at the next service.
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,007
KaroKonig did his M820 a few months back for his LCE930. Re-packed heavily with grease trying to muffle the gearing "whir". He implied factory grease was minimal...he also had one of the very early motors he bought last February.
I'd bet a quick overhaul will silence the noise. If not you may a have a gremlin...and not the cute and fuzzy one...I hope not!
There's only one sample, it's right here with me, no extra screw holes needed, he just guessedAll right. Putting it out there for the pop-up tool to replace the top tube cap.
I asked Linda to consider aquiring it from one of their clients that markets the CEF50 under their brand name and that makes the pop-up tool compartment.
She finally got a sample. She said the SZZS engineer thought that it was not well made plastic and that it had to retro-fitted with extra screw holes. So, they won't be ordering any.
Personally, I'd be fine with just a empty storage compartment for soft items. Anything to utilize the hole practically.
Yes, I know peeps have varying opinions, but I'm pushing hard for them to make something other than just a cap that's not really water-tight.
And yep, I thought about just sealing the cap off with glue on the new warranty frame. Initially, I was going to carbon-patch it before I painted it, until I saw the pop-up multi-tool a few months ago.
Anyway, if you're up for specifically for a small storage compartment let Linda or Jean know. If enough ask, they just might respond affirmatively.
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,009
So is it 3-D printable? That is you made it at home?
Does the spring action now work? Remember you said it was getting stuck.
Can you show a picture or video of the tool mounting holes?
Some help please....
The storage feature is just something I did for fun, you don't need to ask Linda, he doesn't get it
Sina Visitor System
Sina Visitor System
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,011
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #3,013
Can you alter your existing 3-D image of the storage box minus multi-tool? That is, just make an empty storage compartment. Then put it on thingverse.com for free download...
Many of us could have it printed up at local business that has 3-D printers. It would be a nice show of fellowship too.
Neeko DeVinchi
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
So, new headset arrived today.
I'll do my best to explain each piece to avoid any misinterpretations.
Starting with the headset top cover, you'll note that three of the holes are specific for either a gear outer cable or brake hose (depending on your preference for cable routing and orientation.
Whereas the bigger hole is specific for 1 to 2 cables from the wiring loom/harness.
Moving to the upper headset ring, four slots have been made to allow each of the cables to pass through the upper headset without interfering or cross-cabling when preloading the headset.
Take note that the upper part of the ring is aluminium. Whereas the core body of the ring is plastic.
From what I've been told, making the body of the ring out of plastic should prevent cables from getting scored or tarnished through steering. But I suspect that this peice 'may' require replacing at some stage, (possibly before the upper headset bearing).
Regardless, I'd still recommend using grease. Especially on the ring, to prevent it from seizing to the fork steerer to ensure easy disassembly when the time comes.
The orientation of the headset upper ring to the headset top cover isn't difficult to fathom.
And the use of the metal piece on the ring should enable the headset to preload equally without unwanted distribution of force (which would have made the ring overall questionable in terms of longevity if it was all plastic).
Moving to the upper headset cup. Whilst it is a zs56 cup, you'll note that one side has a groove on the top.
In addition, the depth of the zs56 upper headset cup is bigger than most I've seen previously. Rest assured, it is designed to fully seat into the headtube of the CEF50 frame.
Looking at the zs56 headset cup from underneath, you'll see that the headset cup has a curved lip. Again, different to most zs56 cups. Usually, they have ridged edges to allow easier headset cup installation (when using a headset press).
Not much to say about the bearing. It feels smooth. But I tend to run bearings for headsets which offer a greater lifespan.
Nevertheless, you can see that the depth of the zs56 upper cup Is deeper. Again, please use grease when assembling the headset.
Please note, that this is the orientation in which the ring should face in conjunction with the headset cup. The ingressed part of the headset upper cup should be installed facing towards the back.
DO NOT install in this orientation, as you run the risk of preventing your steering from fully turning the full 180°+.
But like I said, you get the gist of what the upper headset looks like. The above image shows the orientation facing forward. Essentially, the writing should be on the back.
This is what the headset upper assembly will look like when facing towards the bike from the front.
Again, you can see that the ring and the headset top cover are designed to have the cables pass through it without crossing or tarnishing when preloading the headset.
Moving to the lower headset cup, this zs66 is similar to others I've seen.
The outer lip of the cup is ridged.
And the depth is no different compared to others. Essentially, if you already have a zs66 lower headset cup installed, you don't technically need to swap it.
Again, nothing to say or add about the bearing. It spin free.
And you can always keep them as spares. Or you can use. Your choice
Like I said, you don't need to swap the lower headset cup if you have one already installed. Believe me, its the same headset cup as what you already have.
The headset comes with optional crown races, depending on whether you chose to use a 1.5 tapered fork or a 1.8 supertapered fork. The above image is the 1.5 crown race.
The crown race itself doesn't have a rubber seal around it. Unlike other headset (UK made headsets) which I'm more familiar with.
You can see a slight gap between the race and the lower headset cup where the bearing is visible. Crown races aren't specific to a particular headset manufacturer. Rather, they're specific to a headset cup size, bearing diameter and fork steerer diameter. So basically, a crown race which uses a seal which is designed for the exact same headset cup will work and prevent the lower bearing from prematurely wearing out quicker.
Remember, the lower headset cup IS IDENTICAL to other zs66 headset cups.
The same thing for the 1.8 crown race as well.
No seal around the crown race.
And again, you can see the bearing showing. But like I said, a different crown race (from Hope, Works Components, Superstar Components etc) will work. Just make sure the crown race is designed for a zs66 headset cup
So hopefully, I've explained this new headset. Again, there are some questions I have about the longevity side of things. Particularly, the upper ring. But the headset top cover seems decent. And I'd even go as far as to say that it's not just designed for an ebike which uses the Bafang system. Speaking of,
You'll forgive me for choosing to use this headset with this Nukeproof Megawatt which also uses the same headset cable routing. And I can easily compare and contrast between,
This new headset.
And the original. FYI, I haven't had issues with this headset so far.
Thanks for reading and I'll keep you all updated
Oh yeah, no star nut, 5mm bolt or headset top cap included with this headset
I'll do my best to explain each piece to avoid any misinterpretations.
Starting with the headset top cover, you'll note that three of the holes are specific for either a gear outer cable or brake hose (depending on your preference for cable routing and orientation.
Whereas the bigger hole is specific for 1 to 2 cables from the wiring loom/harness.
Moving to the upper headset ring, four slots have been made to allow each of the cables to pass through the upper headset without interfering or cross-cabling when preloading the headset.
Take note that the upper part of the ring is aluminium. Whereas the core body of the ring is plastic.
From what I've been told, making the body of the ring out of plastic should prevent cables from getting scored or tarnished through steering. But I suspect that this peice 'may' require replacing at some stage, (possibly before the upper headset bearing).
Regardless, I'd still recommend using grease. Especially on the ring, to prevent it from seizing to the fork steerer to ensure easy disassembly when the time comes.
The orientation of the headset upper ring to the headset top cover isn't difficult to fathom.
And the use of the metal piece on the ring should enable the headset to preload equally without unwanted distribution of force (which would have made the ring overall questionable in terms of longevity if it was all plastic).
Moving to the upper headset cup. Whilst it is a zs56 cup, you'll note that one side has a groove on the top.
In addition, the depth of the zs56 upper headset cup is bigger than most I've seen previously. Rest assured, it is designed to fully seat into the headtube of the CEF50 frame.
Looking at the zs56 headset cup from underneath, you'll see that the headset cup has a curved lip. Again, different to most zs56 cups. Usually, they have ridged edges to allow easier headset cup installation (when using a headset press).
Not much to say about the bearing. It feels smooth. But I tend to run bearings for headsets which offer a greater lifespan.
Nevertheless, you can see that the depth of the zs56 upper cup Is deeper. Again, please use grease when assembling the headset.
Please note, that this is the orientation in which the ring should face in conjunction with the headset cup. The ingressed part of the headset upper cup should be installed facing towards the back.
DO NOT install in this orientation, as you run the risk of preventing your steering from fully turning the full 180°+.
But like I said, you get the gist of what the upper headset looks like. The above image shows the orientation facing forward. Essentially, the writing should be on the back.
This is what the headset upper assembly will look like when facing towards the bike from the front.
Again, you can see that the ring and the headset top cover are designed to have the cables pass through it without crossing or tarnishing when preloading the headset.
Moving to the lower headset cup, this zs66 is similar to others I've seen.
The outer lip of the cup is ridged.
And the depth is no different compared to others. Essentially, if you already have a zs66 lower headset cup installed, you don't technically need to swap it.
Again, nothing to say or add about the bearing. It spin free.
And you can always keep them as spares. Or you can use. Your choice
Like I said, you don't need to swap the lower headset cup if you have one already installed. Believe me, its the same headset cup as what you already have.
The headset comes with optional crown races, depending on whether you chose to use a 1.5 tapered fork or a 1.8 supertapered fork. The above image is the 1.5 crown race.
The crown race itself doesn't have a rubber seal around it. Unlike other headset (UK made headsets) which I'm more familiar with.
You can see a slight gap between the race and the lower headset cup where the bearing is visible. Crown races aren't specific to a particular headset manufacturer. Rather, they're specific to a headset cup size, bearing diameter and fork steerer diameter. So basically, a crown race which uses a seal which is designed for the exact same headset cup will work and prevent the lower bearing from prematurely wearing out quicker.
Remember, the lower headset cup IS IDENTICAL to other zs66 headset cups.
The same thing for the 1.8 crown race as well.
And again, you can see the bearing showing. But like I said, a different crown race (from Hope, Works Components, Superstar Components etc) will work. Just make sure the crown race is designed for a zs66 headset cup
So hopefully, I've explained this new headset. Again, there are some questions I have about the longevity side of things. Particularly, the upper ring. But the headset top cover seems decent. And I'd even go as far as to say that it's not just designed for an ebike which uses the Bafang system. Speaking of,
You'll forgive me for choosing to use this headset with this Nukeproof Megawatt which also uses the same headset cable routing. And I can easily compare and contrast between,
This new headset.
And the original. FYI, I haven't had issues with this headset so far.
Thanks for reading and I'll keep you all updated
Oh yeah, no star nut, 5mm bolt or headset top cap included with this headset
Last edited:
Neeko DeVinchi
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
I'm still awaiting a response from the seller to independently advertise and list the headset. So I'll happily share it once they've done that.
It took roughly 2 weeks to arrive to me in the UK
voigtkampff
Active member
Hi, I'm currently in the process of building my own machine based on CEF50 (frame is already in the production). This thread helped me with lots of decisions tremendously and I'm very grateful for all this information. I have already gathered all the components except for the dropper post, which I was going to measure after assembling the bike. However, I have a great deal on Race Face Turbine R dropper which I'm anxious might be gone by the time the frame arrives. Is there anybody here of roughly the same height as me (171cm) who could help me choosing the fitting dropper? I believe it will be either 175 or 200mm of travel. The frame is size M. Thanks!
Needless to say, I'll share my build details after it's complete.
Needless to say, I'll share my build details after it's complete.
Get oneup as you can adjust your travel if its its too long and its suoer easy to service n reliable too. Now there are having sale too. 20% discount
voigtkampff
Active member
AFAIU they can be shimmed by at most 2cm, it would look so from their size chart? I'm not sure if shimming 210mm to 190 will be enough for me. I prefer not to overshoot the length too much to avoid increased play and weight. Still OneUp at 1100 PLN price point is considerably more expensive than RF Turbine R at 870...
@Neeko DeVinchi , what bushings are you using for DPX2 ? I bought the same damper but i got only damper without any bushings (even without this plastic one)
Neeko DeVinchi
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
salvaparraes
Member
heeko nos podrias recomendar los rodamientos reforzados, tamaño y medidas
200mm dropper @171cm height M frame? You must have very long legs!
I'm 172cm all my previous frames have been size M, but only comfortable with 150mm dropper max.
I like the CEF50 because of its long seatpost insert. Do you know the max insert of RF? I can't seem to find it.
8x23mm upper and lower.
You've just reminded me to notify Offset Bushings
hmm. i wonder if they changed the specs? i thought it was originally 8x22
voigtkampff
Active member
TBH I don't know what to expect here, from the SZCT drawings it would look like the seat tube is quite short compared to my other bikes so I was hoping I could fit at least 175mm, but I might be proven wrong. I guess my legs are quite regular.
Looking at the technical drawing from SZCT it would seem that the seat tube starts to bend backwards at sth like 22.5cm of insert on M-sized frame
Last edited:
Shock bushings 8x22.2
I keep the specifications page up to date so it is easy to find information about the CEF50
www.emtbforums.com
I keep the specifications page up to date so it is easy to find information about the CEF50
Shenzhen Zhaosheng Carbon CEF50 lightweight using Bafang M820 motor (Specifications Thread)
sub-threads Main conversation - https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/m820-bafang-cef50-frame-lightweight.32042/ External Batteries Range extenders -...
www.emtbforums.com
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