Kenevo SL Official 2022 Kenevo SL (KSL) Megathread!

[Loamranger]

Hope would be my go too. I've used code R for 4 years and come to love the modulation, but the ones on the KSL seem particularly disappointing as standard. Saints are way too grabby for me, outside of the alps anyway.

Thanks my buddy likes Hope. E4 or V4? His experience is good with E4 on his normal bike.

 

[Loamranger]

Thanks guys for the feedback on brakes, I’ve passed that on to my pal.

 

[HarzEnduro]

Mounted the Argotal DH SS/Kryptotal DH SS today. Yes, they are heavy but I was riding along in Eco mode anyways so a litte extra weight doesn't hurt, as my battery lasts for ages.

With these tires and the EXT setup this is a beast! Grip for ages!

 

[EatSleepRideRepeat]

Does anyone know if there is a Garmin watch out there that can record (that is read) all the data of the KSL like the Garmin Edge 130 can?

I have a Garmin Epix 2 but didn't connect it to the KSL so far. Will try that and let you know.

Edit: Its working with the Epix 2.

 

[Endurafrika]

Hi all. Mi BB/cranks have about 1,5 mm play which seems to have developed over the past few rides - and there is a clunk coming from the motor when going dh (sounds like a EP8). Is this the start of something?

 

[EatSleepRideRepeat]

KSL build complete.. can't wait to get out there!

 

[Hitorogoshi]

I might change first better rotors, because Sram Centerlines are not up to today's standard. Look Galfer or Sram HS2 rotors. When I changed to the quality rotor, I was even able to change the front rotor smaller. Retaining better braking power without the problem of overheating.

Remember that Code R and RSC brake calibers are same.

I upgraded to HS2 on my expert and it made a huge difference. However I also went 220mm on the rear which helps

 

[Endurafrika]

I upgraded to HS2 on my expert and it made a huge difference. However I also went 220mm on the rear which helps

could you post a picture of the rear calliper with the 220 disc please? Are you using two adapters?
Thanks

 

[Hitorogoshi]

could you post a picture of the rear calliper with the 220 disc please? Are you using two adapters?
Thanks

Will do, all I did was purchase an extra 40mm post adapter and replace the 20mm

 

[Hitorogoshi]

Pics below

 

[Endurafrika]

Pics below

View attachment 95943

View attachment 95944

Thanks man... will replicate this!

 

[Mcharza]

Keep in mind, that Sram HS2 heat management is not so good. After spending 6 weeks riding in Alps this year here is a picture of my bikes and the rear brake rotors. Galfer rotor is like a new and Sram HS2 not, although I was riding the one with Galfer rotors more.

 

[Hitorogoshi]

Keep in mind, that Sram HS2 heat management is not so good. After spending 6 weeks riding in Alps this year here is a picture of my bikes and the rear brake rotors. Galfer rotor is like a new and Sram HS2 not, although I was riding the one with Galfer rotors more.

View attachment 95975

the HS2 heat management is way better than the stock centerlines, I have zero fade with the HS2 where I got major fade with stocks after 1 run. And, your picture above is comparing a front rotor with rear

 

[Dax]

Keep in mind, that Sram HS2 heat management is not so good. After spending 6 weeks riding in Alps this year here is a picture of my bikes and the rear brake rotors. Galfer rotor is like a new and Sram HS2 not, although I was riding the one with Galfer rotors more.

View attachment 95975

Did you get any fade with that? I don’t care if my rotors look used after 6 weeks in the alps, I care of the brakes keep working

 

[Mcharza]

the HS2 heat management is way better than the stock centerlines, I have zero fade with the HS2 where I got major fade with stocks after 1 run. And, your picture above is comparing a front rotor with rear

True dat, but the rear rotor is the same colour.

 

[Mcharza]

Did you get any fade with that? I don’t care if my rotors look used after 6 weeks in the alps, I care of the brakes keep working

Small amount of fade, but not bad. Just colour change, which proves that the discs were really hot. However, I thought I would ride them as long as they last.

 

[Dax]

Small amount of fade, but not bad. Just colour change, which proves that the discs were really hot. However, I thought I would ride them as long as they last.

The rear rotor on my non-ebike currently looks like this, dont see this as something to worry about until braking performance is affected:

 

[Zimmerframe]

The rear rotor on my non-ebike currently looks like this, dont see this as something to worry about until braking performance is affected:
View attachment 96000

I thought you said once you didn't like the feel of saints ?

 

[Dax]

I thought you said once you didn't like the feel of saints ?

I don’t for the UK. I used to be a big Shimano fan, but 4 years of riding the codes on my OG Kenevo has really made me appreciate the modulation of the Codes (and the fact I haven’t bled them in 4 years and they still work great).

I dug my regular bike out and rode it on my usual trails at fod (steep tech) and kept locking up, and genuinely came away wondering why I had ever fitted saints. Then I rode in the alps, doing trails like this one, and the saints make sense. Will probably be going back to XTs on that bike for the UK.

 

[KnollyBro]

Hi all. Mi BB/cranks have about 1,5 mm play which seems to have developed over the past few rides - and there is a clunk coming from the motor when going dh (sounds like a EP8). Is this the start of something?

I read your message and checked my BB/cranks on my KSL and seem to have the same issue. I guess I never heard/felt it when I ride being kind of noisy on the trails but I felt something riding on the road yesterday. I checked my LSL and there is no play at all so there is definitely a problem. I have had no other issues with my KSL so far. Did you take it in for a check up yet?

 

[Sid Duffman]

Is there any difference between the frames for the S-Works, Expert, and Comp Kenevo? With the SW frameset costing $8.5k and the Comp whole bike costing $9k, it seems like there must be something better about the SW frame beyond the shock (about $200 delta between the X2 and Float X performance). But frame description looks the same on the Spec website:

S-Works: vvv

Expert: vvv

Comp: vvv

 

[KnollyBro]

Is there any difference between the frames for the S-Works, Expert, and Comp Kenevo? With the SW frameset costing $8.5k and the Comp whole bike costing $9k, it seems like there must be something better about the SW frame beyond the shock (about $200 delta between the X2 and Float X performance). But frame description looks the same on the Spec website:

S-Works: vvv
View attachment 96157

Expert: vvv
View attachment 96158

Comp: vvv
View attachment 96159

Well... you obviously missed the most important difference... the S-WORKS sticker and all the bragging rights that come with it! I am not really sure what the S stands for other than Sucker. Then again, I can make my own stickers .
Oh... they also throw in a Range Extender for that price too

 

[Sid Duffman]

Well... you obviously missed the most important difference... the S-WORKS sticker and all the bragging rights that come with it! I am not really sure what the S stands for other than Sucker. Then again, I can make my own stickers .
Oh... they also throw in a Range Extender for that price too

Lol, of course, how could I forget the bragging rights!?

I can't find the post now, but I assume you're the one who put on the Knolly stickers. Really loved that! I might have to do something similar when I get one.

 

[Mcharza]

All models has the same frame. The only difference is fork, shock and parts. And colour of course.

 

[KnollyBro]

Hi all. Mi BB/cranks have about 1,5 mm play which seems to have developed over the past few rides - and there is a clunk coming from the motor when going dh (sounds like a EP8). Is this the start of something?

I took my bike into my LBS and they were surprised at how much side to side play there was in the BB/cranks. The LBS put a warrenty claim in with Specialized Canada but they are out of stock on the SL motors and say it will be at least 3 weeks to get one in. I have started the clock as last time if was over 6 weeks to get a new motor installed. Oh Specialized Canada, so big, yet so small.
I wonder what I did, to what has seemily been a robust motor, to make it crap out.

 

[Hitorogoshi]

I took my bike into my LBS and they were surprised at how much side to side play there was in the BB/cranks. The LBS put a warrenty claim in with Specialized Canada but they are out of stock on the SL motors and say it will be at least 3 weeks to get one in. I have started the clock as last time if was over 6 weeks to get a new motor installed. Oh Specialized Canada, so big, yet so small.
I wonder what I did, to what has seemily been a robust motor, to make it crap out.

You plagued with pedal strikes?

 

[KnollyBro]

You plagued with pedal strikes?

No. My bike is setup mullet (in HIGH). I mostly ride DH/technical trails down and climbing trails and FSRs up so I rarely get a pedal strike (hardly any technical climbing). Both of our Levl SLs, we have had for over 2 years, have no movement at all. I was looking for an exploded view of the motor to see what could have shifted as one would think that the bearings are pressed in, in such a way, that only a lateral force/impact would account for this type of movement.

 

[Hitorogoshi]

No. My bike is setup mullet (in HIGH). I mostly ride DH/technical trails down and climbing trails and FSRs up so I rarely get a pedal strike (hardly any technical climbing). Both of our Levl SLs, we have had for over 2 years, have no movement at all. I was looking for an exploded view of the motor to see what could have shifted as one would think that the bearings are pressed in, in such a way, that only a lateral force/impact would account for this type of movement.

Interesting points. It would be nice to get some feedback from Spez. I've read about the noisy, clunky and lateral movement on quite a few Kenevo SLs now.

 

[LeeG]

Hi all, 3 rides and charge cycles in on my Kenevo SL.

I gave the bike a wash today and got it ready for a ride tomorrow. I switched the power button on on the TCU and didn't get a beep. It just displayed 100% battery symbol (like when it's charging / charged) and I couldn't toggle through any screens. It would change modes though. Pedaled under power but didn't try it for long.

Initially there was an error code 4 on the diagnostics which doesn't say much. This error was 2 days ago, I have ridden since and only noticed the fault today. However this doesn't show on the diagnostics any more.

Anyone else had this issue / know how to resolve it?

Thanks

 

[KnollyBro]

Hi all, 3 rides and charge cycles in on my Kenevo SL.

I gave the bike a wash today and got it ready for a ride tomorrow. I switched the power button on on the TCU and didn't get a beep. It just displayed 100% battery symbol (like when it's charging / charged) and I couldn't toggle through any screens. It would change modes though. Pedaled under power but didn't try it for long.

Initially there was an error code 4 on the diagnostics which doesn't say much. This error was 2 days ago, I have ridden since and only noticed the fault today. However this doesn't show on the diagnostics any more.

Anyone else had this issue / know how to resolve it?

Thanks

I feel your pain. Not saying that this is the problem but I wonder if you got some moisture into the TCU or toggle switch. I personally don't wash my bike other than spray down the wheels if they are dirty and use a damp cloth to get any dust off the rest of the bike after using a soft brush. Nevertheless, pack it up and take it back to where you bought it and let them figure it out as I wouldn't start taking anything apart looking for a RESET/EASY button. Good luck