ebikerider
Active member
From memory, I had the adjustable head angle cup, manuals, SWAT tool assorted length pins, reflectors, bell and the charger.Thank you, could you tell me what exactly is into the box?
From memory, I had the adjustable head angle cup, manuals, SWAT tool assorted length pins, reflectors, bell and the charger.Thank you, could you tell me what exactly is into the box?
It's not an EXT piece, it's only a carbon motor protection by Rockguardz. EXT logo is only a sticker!
I'm waiting for EXT e-storia shox... delivery is scheduled for next week.
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Prob contaminated man. I usually spray the fuck outta mine when I question it with 98% isopropyl alcohol. Sometimes if you spilled oil bad on them you’ll need to soak the pads too. Not sure if degreaser would work but def not on the calipers, Would likely eat the seals and aluminum bits. If that doesn’t work give your rotor a light spin with some 2,000 grit sand paper if they’re glazed over but I’ve never needed that step.
or air in your brake lines
I changed the SRAM pads out for MTX pads and that improved the brakes markedly. Very consistent now although still unremarkable. I've been considering changing over to my Dominions for a while now but the change of pads helped the Code's enough to hold off a little longer.Yeah, I just wiped my rotors with alchohol and have in the past...They improve a bit, but the front just don't work as well as it did 100 miles ago...Pads are probably glazed. On fast DH hard on the front, it starts to get pretty loud (harmonics) and vibrates. It's as if it's fading on hard braking. At first I thought these brakes were great. Nice and modular, but they are more like on and off now.
Use the same spacer that's on the front.I put the MTX Gold on my bike, never liked SRAM brakes, but with the MTX pads, it's a huge improvement and I am going to keep the Codes that came with the bike.
Has anyone upgraded the rear rotor to a 220mm? Spacer you used?
I test rode a KSL today. As I suspected, it’s awesome down hill and adequate up hill. On flowing single track it’s faster than my Rail but on DH chunk it’s not as planted.
The seat tube is a PITA; I rode an S3 and with the post slammed the saddle was spot on but didn’t go low enough for my liking.
Not keen on the tyres at first but they grew on me. I’d still like a day on my normal tyres though.
I rode the same trails back to back with my Rail but my bloody Strava didn’t record so I’ve got no comparison times.
Ride 1 was good enough. We sessioned trails I know well, so had plenty of time to get the bike set up. I even improved the Rail in the PM...There are many, myself included, that didn't have an outstanding experience on the KSL on the first ride, but this changed dramatically for us after rides 2, 3....
It's a super-chunky DH trail and to be fair to the KSL, it wasn't the bike I rode in the morning but the bike of one of the shop guys and it wasn't set up for me (he does weigh about the same but is way faster)To me, it's ubber planted DH. One it's standout traits, IMO. It's a pure bobsled DH. So your Rail feels more planted? Suspension setup perhaps?
I only tried an S3 but it looked to be right on paper and I wouldn't want it any longer. When I borrowed the shop guy's bike for the DH run it actually felt tiny compared to the medium Rail.Was the S3 a good size for you?
It's a super-chunky DH trail and to be fair to the KSL, it wasn't the bike I rode in the morning but the bike of one of the shop guys and it wasn't set up for me (he does weigh about the same but is way faster)
It's a bicycle, how hard can it be?It took me a few rides to understand how the KSL works
It's a bicycle, how hard can it be?
Didn't @Christian get his lower than standard with some reaming ?Can someone with an S3 do me a favour please?
Can you fully slam the seat post and measure how much post is showing between the top for the seat tube and the bottom of the collar on the post and measure the length of the post below the collar as well? Thanks.
Can someone with an S3 do me a favour please?
Can you fully slam the seat post and measure how much post is showing between the top for the seat tube and the bottom of the collar on the post and measure the length of the post below the collar as well? Thanks.
Isn't 180 mm better, so you can get it lower when slammed down. And you can get the saddle still up enough when you need it?Just get the OneUp 150mm post...
Yes, hence my question. I need to work out if it's feasible.Isn't 180 mm better,
S3 with a 170mm axs seat post set 5mm above max insertion depth to avoid cracking carbon.Can someone with an S3 do me a favour please?
Can you fully slam the seat post and measure how much post is showing between the top for the seat tube and the bottom of the collar on the post and measure the length of the post below the collar as well? Thanks.
Gen 1 Kenevo got a hole saw down the tube. Could of put a 200mm + seat tube down that hole no worries.Didn't @Christian get his lower than standard with some reaming ?
Isn't 180 mm better, so you can get it lower when slammed down. And you can get the saddle still up enough when you need it?
Same for me because I want the saddle lower and still keep the max. height the same as now.Yes, hence my question. I need to work out if it's feasible.
Dude, you have got to stop obsessing over the One Up post. The 150mm One Up will not sort out the issue I have with the stock 150mm post. I need more drop and the saddle at the right height for pedaling. Fitting a dropper with the same drop as stock will not sort this out."The OneUp Dropper post is available in 120mm, 150mm, 180mm and 210mm lengths and all can be shimmed down in travel by 10 or 20mm.
We've been obsessed with shaving every last millimeter from the latest OneUp post to give you the the shortest stack height and shortest total length of any dropper post. No other post can get your saddle lower."
OneUp Components V2 Dropper Post with 90-240mm of Travel - 30.9/31.6/34.9
A longer dropper post is one of the best upgrades you can make to your bike. Simply put, the award-winning OneUp Dropper Post is the longest travel dropper you can fit in your bike.www.oneupcomponents.com
I feel you. I’ve hit my nuts in the saddle in situations like this ?sometimes on rollers where I am squashing the bike a bit and moving my position on the bike. Unfortunately, it's those scenarios where I least want the seat to impede me.
My worst experience (beyond nut bashing) was a segment called the "Elevator Shaft" at a bike park (mammoth). It's probably 25-30% grade straight shot through uber chunk and hub deep kitty litter volcanic pumice. I was going fine for the first 1/3 when, but then my shorts got caught on the nose of the saddle, where I was off the back of the bike. I couldn't disengage or get them on caught, so I basically fell off and tumbled down the rest of the way. Ego bruised and bike didn't enjoy the ride. Lower saddle height would have been the ticketI feel you. I’ve hit my nuts in the saddle in situations like this ?
Dude, you have got to stop obsessing over the One Up post. The 150mm One Up will not sort out the issue I have with the stock 150mm post. I need more drop and the saddle at the right height for pedaling. Fitting a dropper with the same drop as stock will not sort this out.
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