EnduroIntern
New Member
Just went with 35 rise one up carbon bar.What rise bars are people running? Thinking of going higher than my current 20mm ones.
Really like it. And feels better at cornering and over chunk.
But it is most likely placebo
Just went with 35 rise one up carbon bar.What rise bars are people running? Thinking of going higher than my current 20mm ones.
Thanks for that I think mine is very similar type of noise but mine will not creak unless I pedal very hard. I will get it out again tomorrow and thoroughly go through it to see if I can make it creak like yours.
Just went with 35 rise one up carbon bar.
Really like it. And feels better at cornering and over chunk.
But it is most likely placebo
Same here. Except mine is the e-carbon bar.Just went with 35 rise one up carbon bar.
Really like it. And feels better at cornering and over chunk.
But it is most likely placebo
I went with a 38mm rise carbon bar from PNW. Quite happy with that.Just went with 35 rise one up carbon bar.
Really like it. And feels better at cornering and over chunk.
But it is most likely placebo
I was lucky that I had my old carbon wheels. The DHF/DHR slid straight on. As good as those rim strips are they have previously made me very angry lolFinally got around to taking off the Bont-trasher tires and putting on Assegai & Dhr2s. The thick rim strip on the wheels made it extremely challenging to mount the new tires. Normally you can just position the tire in the center channel and the tire will go on easy. The rim strip is so thick that it doesn't give you much room to play with. I did manage to mount the tires eventually resorting to every trick in the book. But in retrospect I should just have removed the rim strip and replaced with regular rim tape. It would have been a lot less effort
So just a word of advice to everyone. Yank that rim strip and replace with rim tape. Save yourself a lot of frustration
Wow! Interesting. Yeah, that looks a little scary. So when I have changed volume spacers, I didn't see any sort of BO bumper in the air chamber, just the white "top hat" that the volume spacers clip on to.@Emailsucks98 Do you happen to know the height of the bottom out bumper in the ttx1 air? Couldn't really find any info on that and haven't opened the shock yet. I'm having about 3-4mm clearance when the shock is fully deflated / compressed. Kinda undecided atm. whether I want to the risk or not.
The sag indicator was pretty much all the way at the top, so full stroke. Measured 63-64mm-ish, a bit hard to reach with a vernier caliper. Now keep in mind that is fully deflated with me pressing down on the saddle (mino-link on low). Don't know whether this is actually realistic in a real world riding scenario.Wow! Interesting. Yeah, that looks a little scary. So when I have changed volume spacers, I didn't see any sort of BO bumper in the air chamber, just the white "top hat" that the volume spacers clip on to.
Could you measure your sock stroke at full compression? I'd be happy to do the same on mine. Ohlins says my shock was rebuilt to 65mm stroke but I've never gotten that much out of it. I have also heard from a reputable source that no 205mm shock actually gets 65mm stroke, it's purely hypothetical.
Interesting, same setup then. Did you ever check the clearance with no air in the shock? Also I assume no volume spacers?I run TTX1 205x65 as it came from factory. Msize frame, no probs with clearance. I use full stroke (by sag indicator).
Did not check, because before TTX1 I run Float X also 65 stroke with no issues. Have no idea how big bo spacer is inside.Interesting, same setup then. Did you ever check the clearance with no air in the shock? Also I assume no volume spacers?
Holy shit haha, hope you're doing okay. Yea that shock would've most definitely bottomed out.Week ago I broke carbon rim, hit jump landing edge, I am sure shock went max stroke to the bottom. No signs on frame.
I'm glad @Jazzii has some feedback for you, cause I am up at whistler with the coil shock so I can't help with any measurements!Holy shit haha, hope you're doing okay. Yea that shock would've most definitely bottomed out.
Thanks a lot for the input though, I guess it'll be fine then. Mino-link position also shouldn't change the bottom out clearance from a few posts I've seen here.
(Silence is Golden)So Ive been chasing a creak on my bike for the last few rides. So I started by lubing and torquing all of the main pivot and shock linkage. I torqued everything in sequence and was proud and optimistic to hopefully quiet my bike down. NO. Then I came across a thread about lubing your seat post. Torqued that. NO. Still squeaks.
Today do more squeak research. Find another thread about the two motor mount bolts which should be torqued to 20nm. I come home get the torque wrench out and lo and behold I get a 1/4 turn on the front bolt and an 1/8 maybe a little more on the aft one. I’m praying for a squeak free bike on my next ride.
Have the H2S rotors already, but unless they bed in really nice, I'll probably swap over to XT brakes next year sometime. I've run XT's on all my bikes for the last 15 years.Have a 9.7 with Shimano brakes which I love. The Code R's on my Heckler just sucked. Replaced with RSC levers and the H2S rotors and much, much better.
The World's largest electric mountain bike community.