Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Bogdan_CH]

Sounds legit but what tyres and cassete you are using?

I have a crazy ideea, get the 9.5 and at the same time buy a Cube one 55 Slx as almost all parts on this bike matches the Trek and. Swap them, sell the Cube for dirt cheap (1200-1400 euros) and end up with a decently light bike with enduroish spec for around 5K, better actually than the 9.8 from my point of view.

 

[JayX2A]

My 9.5 upgrades are not huge as mainly parts from old bike but will budget doesn’t allow any suspension upgrades just yet!

OneUp bar with Bontrager pro stem
XT shifter, XT Deraileur, SLX chain
XT brakes
Hope headset
OneUp 180mm dropper
Rovel carbon wheels with Conti tyres and matching hope valves lol

 

[Kermit]

Sounds legit but what tyres and cassete you are using?

I have a crazy ideea, get the 9.5 and at the same time buy a Cube one 55 Slx as almost all parts on this bike matches the Trek and. Swap them, sell the Cube for dirt cheap (1200-1400 euros) and end up with a decently light bike with enduroish spec for around 5K, better actually than the 9.8 from my point of view.

F = Schwalbe Magic Mary Ultra Soft 29 x 2.4
R = Schwalbe Big Betty Soft 27.5 x 2.4
Cassette = Shimano 12s SLX M7100
Chain = XTR M9100
Shifter = XT M8100
Derailleur = Deore M6100 (sacrificial part!!!)
Hope top HS

Sold on all the take off parts from the 9.5

 

[Mteam]

Mine was also a 9.5 that I removed almost everything from before I even rode it.

Kept the frame, dropper post, cranks, motor, battery, headset, everything else was changed.

FOx 38 factory 160mm
Rockshox super deluxe ultimat
Magura mt7 brakes and 2.3mm trp 203mm rotors
One up carbon bars
Hunt trail wide ii wheels
Continental argotal dh supersoft on front and Kryptotal enduro soft on rear
Garbaruk 12 speed cassette
Sram t type mech
One up dropper remote
One up aluminium pedals
Renthal stem

It weighs 19.5kg in this state.

 

[Bogdan_CH]

Sounds doable then to aim between 19 to 20 kgs with some Mallet pedals .

 

[Canyon Shawn]

How are you guys getting along with the Fidlock for the range extender?

 

[njatherton]

How are you guys getting along with the Fidlock for the range extender?

Didn't even bother getting one, just use a bottle cage I had lying around. Works just fine.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

the fidlock battery holder arrived today, its got an extra way of holding the battery to the bike in addition to how a regular fidlock bottle holder works. As well as the magnetic twist mechanism of the standard fidlock mount, it has a tab that you pull/push to release or cinch down the battery , so when thats done it holds the battery pretty tight to the frame.

It early days but I'm hopeful that it will solve the battery knocking noise.

How do you like it so far.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Didn't even bother getting one, just use a bottle cage I had lying around. Works just fine.

I’m looking for people who have actually used one.

 

[Mteam]

How do you like it so far.

I stopped using it and went back to a bottle cage.

The fidlock mount works OK, in that it holds the battery securely, without any looseness/rattling etc, but as well as the usual fidlock magnetic mechanism, it has a tab that you push in to lock the battery onto the mount, and then when you want to remove the battery you pull this tab which unlocks the battery and then you twist the battery like a regular fidlock water bottle to remove it.

The problem is that this locking mechanism gets really stiff when used in a muddyand wet climate, meaning thta it becomes really hard to remove the battery, unless you regularly (maybe monthly in winter) clean the locking mechanism.

So I just went back to a bottle cage, it's simpler and works fine, although I do use an extra reusable cable tie to hold the battery in place a bit tighter and stop it rattling over big bumps than just the rubber strap on its own.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I stopped using it and went back to a bottle cage.

The fidlock mount works OK, in that it holds the battery securely, without any looseness/rattling etc, but as well as the usual fidlock magnetic mechanism, it has a tab that you push in to lock the battery onto the mount, and then when you want to remove the battery you pull this tab which unlocks the battery and then you twist the battery like a regular fidlock water bottle to remove it.

The problem is that this locking mechanism gets really stiff when used in a muddyand wet climate, meaning thta it becomes really hard to remove the battery, unless you regularly (maybe monthly in winter) clean the locking mechanism.

So I just went back to a bottle cage, it's simpler and works fine, although I do use an extra reusable cable tie to hold the battery in place a bit tighter and stop it rattling over big bumps than just the rubber strap on its own.

Ok thanks. I don’t ride in rain or mud, here in Southern California. So I’m thinking it should work out fine.

 

[tony.c]

My fuel exe Is giving me this display error
"tq drv error 494"
Does not switch off or recharge.
Any suggestion?

Thanks

 

[Mteam]

Ok thanks. I don’t ride in rain or mud, here in Southern California. So I’m thinking it should work out fine.

Yep I should think it'll be fine, it does hold the battery very securely

 

[njatherton]

My fuel exe Is giving me this display error
"tq drv error 494"
Does not switch off or recharge.
Any suggestion?

Thanks

According to TQ error code guide it is a Supply Voltage Error.

Probably need to have Trek LBS look at it.

 

[JayX2A]

Finally managed to get myself some Conti tyres. Track pump died so these are not yet inflated! Pointless blue hope valves to match the headset lol

View attachment IMG_0575.jpeg

 

[JayX2A]

Anyone know what this metal bit is for on the rear rotor?

View attachment IMG_0577.jpeg

 

[njatherton]

Anyone know what this metal bit is for on the rear rotor?

View attachment 147622

Speed sensor

 

[JayX2A]

Speed sensor

Thank you! Wondered what’s its purpose was! Best not forget to refit it when I clean up the discs!

 

[JayX2A]

Was just looking at the XT brake discs and they come with a lock ring (silver bit in the middle). My older XT ones didn’t have this. Not sure these will work with the magnet as the bolts look like they sit in a lip? Will I need some spacers to get the magnet it fit properly?

 

[JayX2A]

All sorted. That lock ring was a myth lol.

In other news… award for the most pointless upgrade ever?!

 

[POC]

All sorted. That lock ring was a myth lol.

In other news… award for the most pointless upgrade ever?!

View attachment 147741

Sweet looking though - where did you get it and do they do a gold one?

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Sweet looking though - where did you get it and do they do a gold one?

Yes, we want to know!

 

[POC]

Yes, we want to know!

Found it - Hope!

Hope E-Bike Speed Sensor Magnet 6-Bolt R32

For 6 bolt rotors, standard or floating. Compatible with all Hope Technology 6 Bolt rotors. R32 sensor designed for bikes with a magnet 32mm from axle centre point Sensor is 3.5mm thick and requires 4.5mm clearance. Available in Hope's standard 6 colours.

www.biketart.com

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Oh, that’s nice. And I have Hole brakes. Thanks!

 

[Canyon Shawn]

All sorted. That lock ring was a myth lol.

In other news… award for the most pointless upgrade ever?!

View attachment 147741

Does it work good?

 

[alphapuppy]

I stopped using it and went back to a bottle cage.

The fidlock mount works OK, in that it holds the battery securely, without any looseness/rattling etc, but as well as the usual fidlock magnetic mechanism, it has a tab that you push in to lock the battery onto the mount, and then when you want to remove the battery you pull this tab which unlocks the battery and then you twist the battery like a regular fidlock water bottle to remove it.

The problem is that this locking mechanism gets really stiff when used in a muddyand wet climate, meaning thta it becomes really hard to remove the battery, unless you regularly (maybe monthly in winter) clean the locking mechanism.

So I just went back to a bottle cage, it's simpler and works fine, although I do use an extra reusable cable tie to hold the battery in place a bit tighter and stop it rattling over big bumps than just the rubber strap on its own.

I had the same issue, the locking tab was so tight that the plastic bit that holds the tape you use to pull it broke off. It was always too tight from brand new.

 

[Guitarick]

I really had to bump it hard up and down to make it creak. Would have literally seen to any passers by that I was humping the bike lol

So did you find the source of your creak? Mine has started to make the exact same sound when riding uphill or putting some power down and I've got very few kms on it. I'll look at all of the usual suspects (motor mounts, width compensation screws, cranks, etc.), but as my sound is identical I'll start with your solution if you found it.

Cheers!

 

[JayX2A]

So did you find the source of your creak? Mine has started to make the exact same sound when riding uphill or putting some power down and I've got very few kms on it. I'll look at all of the usual suspects (motor mounts, width compensation screws, cranks, etc.), but as my sound is identical I'll start with your solution if you found it.

Cheers!

I have not ridden since discovered due to injury. But think mine might have actually been the seat! But can’t officially report back until back on board.

 

[Guitarick]

Get better and I'll let you know when (if) I find mine.

 

[ohiomoto]

So did you find the source of your creak? Mine has started to make the exact same sound when riding uphill or putting some power down and I've got very few kms on it. I'll look at all of the usual suspects (motor mounts, width compensation screws, cranks, etc.), but as my sound is identical I'll start with your solution if you found it.

Cheers!

Check the chainring too.

Fuel EXe - near new trek EXe with loose cranks creaking.

i have been working on riding off the seat. today a creak that sort of started earlier this week ramped up. when i got back to my RV i checked the crank bolts and both were loose. i’ve seen on the mega thread issues with preparation of these bikes especially bearing and other moving parts poorly...

www.emtbforums.com