No, there are already pre drilled holes with screws on the downtube, It looks like I could move the holder higherAre you proposing drilling your own holes in the down tube?
They're not bottle bosses, they're used to hold an internal cable management channel in the frame.No, there are already pre drilled holes with screws on the downtube, It looks like I could move the holder higher
Water in backpackSo what would you all do for carrying water is the holder is used for booster?
So what would you all do for carrying water is the holder is used for booster?
Long time reader, first time poster.
Picked up my 9.5 EXe a couple of weeks ago. So far I'm enjoying it. Had a couple of interesting things happen so far. Mostly putting them down for potential buyers to look out for or be aware of.
Firstly, when the LBS went to put it together, they found that the rear rim was leaking air at the weld, when going Tubeless.
They pulled another wheel off some other stock and had the same issue. May pay to get that checked if you're planning on running tubeless on the stock wheelset but haven't set that up yet. It also came with a Sunrace cassette. How do I found out if it is microsplined Shimano hub or regular HG?
Riding the bike, I have found small stones get stuck in the chainguide and rub against the chain. Anyone found this happen to them or found a solution to prevent it? Was also looking at the 5DEV cranks and it says that they're not compatible with the e13 chain guide. Does anyone know why? Or if its worth keeping it on the bike?
I have a bit of a gap between bearing and headset cap. Is this normal or does it need pressed in more? View attachment 113585
So far I have found the dropper post quite good, but the lever gets stuck open sometimes, so was thinking of switching to the Wolftooth remote. On the site I wasn't sure which one was right for the dropper. Any tips?
Thanks!
I ride quite a bit with assist off and haven't encountered any drag while climbing on mellow or steep terrain. I bought the bike in Oct 2022 and have put on 750km itHi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.
Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.
My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.
When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.
I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:
ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min
How is that even possible?
TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.
Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.
Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?
I had this happen the other day for the 1st time, didn't sound good and wondered what was going on. I was thinking to tape a piece of cable tie along the top of the guide to try and prevent stones dropping in - but haven't done that yet.Riding the bike, I have found small stones get stuck in the chainguide and rub against the chain. Anyone found this happen to them or found a solution to prevent it?
I have a 9.5 also. I've been running tubeless since day 1, no issues thankfully.Long time reader, first time poster.
Picked up my 9.5 EXe a couple of weeks ago. So far I'm enjoying it. Had a couple of interesting things happen so far. Mostly putting them down for potential buyers to look out for or be aware of.
Firstly, when the LBS went to put it together, they found that the rear rim was leaking air at the weld, when going Tubeless.
They pulled another wheel off some other stock and had the same issue. May pay to get that checked if you're planning on running tubeless on the stock wheelset but haven't set that up yet. It also came with a Sunrace cassette. How do I found out if it is microsplined Shimano hub or regular HG?
Riding the bike, I have found small stones get stuck in the chainguide and rub against the chain. Anyone found this happen to them or found a solution to prevent it? Was also looking at the 5DEV cranks and it says that they're not compatible with the e13 chain guide. Does anyone know why? Or if its worth keeping it on the bike?
I have a bit of a gap between bearing and headset cap. Is this normal or does it need pressed in more? View attachment 113585
So far I have found the dropper post quite good, but the lever gets stuck open sometimes, so was thinking of switching to the Wolftooth remote. On the site I wasn't sure which one was right for the dropper. Any tips?
Thanks!
I didn't get a chain guide with mine - was yours included in the stock build?
your husband is a wise man. . . my husband’s 9.5 and my 9.7. . .
I do have the headset gap, and from other posts, this seems to be common!Long time reader, first time poster.
Picked up my 9.5 EXe a couple of weeks ago. So far I'm enjoying it. Had a couple of interesting things happen so far. Mostly putting them down for potential buyers to look out for or be aware of.
Firstly, when the LBS went to put it together, they found that the rear rim was leaking air at the weld, when going Tubeless.
They pulled another wheel off some other stock and had the same issue. May pay to get that checked if you're planning on running tubeless on the stock wheelset but haven't set that up yet. It also came with a Sunrace cassette. How do I found out if it is microsplined Shimano hub or regular HG?
Riding the bike, I have found small stones get stuck in the chainguide and rub against the chain. Anyone found this happen to them or found a solution to prevent it? Was also looking at the 5DEV cranks and it says that they're not compatible with the e13 chain guide. Does anyone know why? Or if its worth keeping it on the bike?
I have a bit of a gap between bearing and headset cap. Is this normal or does it need pressed in more? View attachment 113585
So far I have found the dropper post quite good, but the lever gets stuck open sometimes, so was thinking of switching to the Wolftooth remote. On the site I wasn't sure which one was right for the dropper. Any tips?
Thanks!
Lol, I originally wanted him to get a 9.7. I even pointed to your and your wife’s bikes!your husband is a wise man
I’ve tried pedaling uphill with the motor off. It sucks! I was thinking that using assistance over the last few months has jaded my senses and sapped some of my fitness. But after reading your comments, I wonder…
Both my motors felt great in mid and high, basically anything with the motor output more than 90% of my input. But anything less than that there is a marked difference, and it is almost as if am starting to “pull” or work against the motor, and it gets increasingly harder with lower assistance % and steeper gradients.I’m pretty sure now there’s something wrong with the motor. On today’s ride the drag was noticeable. It felt like the motor was giving less than half of what it said it was. I could feel occasional surges or where the drag would be less. By the end of the ride I was using Boost to get up hills. Felt like I was pedaling in sticky mud.
No codes at this point, so hopefully my bike shop can figure this out.
I’m going back to my Ripmo for tomorrow’s ride. I’m really hoping it’s the Trek and not my fitness.
Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.
Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.
My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.
When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.
I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:
ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min
How is that even possible?
TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.
Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.
Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?
I know this question get asked a lot but I’m curious on what other owners of trek fuel exes are doing. How often are you applying chain lube? I live in CA in mostly dry conditions, my LBS told me after EVERY ride. Seems like much.
After the clean the bikes. We clean them when we need to, or want to.I know this question get asked a lot but I’m curious on what other owners of trek fuel exes are doing. How often are you applying chain lube? I live in CA in mostly dry conditions, my LBS told me after EVERY ride. Seems like much.
That’s what I useWhen it becomes REALLY dirty or starts shifting poorly. I clean it good first.
View attachment 113752
I started using chain wax (Squirt Chain Lube) and so far, I like it better than oil/teflon based lubes. It doesn't attract dirt. After a ride, the chain still looks clean, since the wax sheds dirt off, one of the main reasons I no longer need to wash bike as often. And wax based lubes are supposedly better for improved transmission wear, which is a big factor on ebikes. That alone was worth the switch. There's a thread on this forum discussing the pros and cons.I know this question get asked a lot but I’m curious on what other owners of trek fuel exes are doing. How often are you applying chain lube? I live in CA in mostly dry conditions, my LBS told me after EVERY ride. Seems like much.
+1 for Squirt. Usually only dry or sandy / dusty tracks where and when I ride, but if it rains the Squirt lube stays on quite well. Before the very first use you need to follow the instructions and strip out all the factory / previous lube off the chain and dry it. Then apply it liberally into each linkage and let it dry. Then wipe with a rag to remove off any excess before the ride. Lasts me about 10+ hrs of riding in dry conditions. Mimimal smell and doesn't go black. Have tried lots of different lubes over 20 years and love this stuff .I started using chain wax (Squirt Chain Lube) and so far, I like it better than oil/teflon based lubes. It doesn't attract dirt. After a ride, the chain still looks clean, since the wax sheds dirt off, one of the main reasons I no longer need to wash bike as often. And wax based lubes are supposedly better for improved transmission wear, which is a big factor on ebikes. That alone was worth the switch. There's a thread on this forum discussing the pros and cons.
That is exactly the sensation I get. Not sure if its a general design flaw or a manufacturing tolerance issue, but it really limits the application of the bike."Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?"...
Yes, I have exactly this.... the same as per your description. It is such a force that it feels like you are dragging an anchor behind you with low power and a steep incline. Then it seems to "release" as soon as I get to the flat. Like others, I was wondering if this was a result of the sensation of no assist rather than actual drag. I figure power meter pedals would be the only way to quantify and prove it to my Trek store . So that is reassuring in some way that your LBS could replicate it too.
Mine isn't like that at all, with the motor off (or in no assist mode) it pedals like a regular mountain bike.That is exactly the sensation I get. Not sure if its a general design flaw or a manufacturing tolerance issue, but it really limits the application of the bike.
Yes, I am concerned at the "adjusting to the loss of additional power from the motor" aspect and looking and sounding like a numpty to my Trek shop when the reality is that it is my perception rather than fact. So hence I would like to have some sort of science-based measure to validate it. I mentioned it to my Trek shop but have decided to just live with it for now and deal with it later when perhaps there may be more instances reported in the marketplace (or not).Mine isn't like that at all, with the motor off (or in no assist mode) it pedals like a regular mountain bike.
If yours genuinely is feeling as you describe and you're certain it's not just you not adjusting to the loss of additional power from the motor then it's a fault with the motor.
Yes, I am concerned at the "adjusting to the loss of additional power from the motor" aspect and looking and sounding like a numpty to my Trek shop when the reality is that it is my perception rather than fact. So hence I would like to have some sort of science-based measure to validate it. I mentioned it to my Trek shop but have decided to just live with it for now and deal with it later when perhaps there may be more instances reported in the marketplace (or not).
psychosomatic: adjective, ˌsī-kō-sə-ˈma-tik
of, relating to, concerned with, or involving both mind and body
e.g., when your mind gets used to ebike assistance and you turn power down or off and your body has to work more and you assume there must be motor drag rather than just a need for more rider input
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