Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Cell4soul]

I haven’t weighed the EXe since I switched to a coil shock and 5Dev cranks. 42 lbs 12oz ready to ride.

 

[BiGJZ74]

Does anyone know if batteries and extenders are available yet? Demoed a 9.8 Xt and it was amazing. I'm a huge guy and I always run my Rise H with an extender for 792WH and end my avg rides w/ 20-40% left on the main battery (trail mode set at 196% assistance/300w max, which if you calculate that to watt hours you'd get approx 684 wh used (on EXE that would be internal w/ 2 extenders for 680wh or 1 extender and one battery to be safe @ 880wh ) My second Rise extender gives me 1044wh total and gives me 30-35miles w 4-6k feet of climbing which i do 2 times a month. To get similar battery power on the EXe, I'd need either a combo of 2 extenders or an extender w/ extra battery for my average rides, and all 3 for the big days to get a comparable 1040wh. FWIW, I don't care about the cost or the weight.....I can pick my Rail up over my head with one arm.....The difference in pack weight for having a Rise H extender(1400g) in my pack vs. (TQ extender and battery 950+1850g) for my big rides is only a 3lb difference. On avg rides w/ 1 extender in my pack it would be 1lb less then my current pack and if I only bring the extra battery in pack it's only 1lb more. To get the Fuel EXe I'd probably need at least one extender and one battery to start but another extender to match my current capacity. Sorry for the long winded post LOL

 

[ragetty]

I have a good friend in Bad Tölz (Wolfram). Nice Place! Here are the things I came across with my bike which was an early one back on Oct 1, 2022:
1. Bike came with the wrong cranks. Aluminum instead of e13 carbon cranks.
2. Headset was loose and not greased properly (shop fixed it)
3. Seat post dropper cable was excessively long (shop shortened it)
4. Grinding noise from motor at low wattage (LT 20 Watts). Still an ‘issue’
5. Motor cutting out in high mode. . Fixed with last software update.
6. Motor not providing full power in high mode. Still an issue
7. Dropper post died after 4 Months. Would not move up when torqued to specs. (Replaced by Trek)

despite this, I really like the bike. Suspension of the 9.8 and brakes are great! Bike is super balanced. Motor in med mode feels amazingly natural. Viel Glück !

... thx for the item list ... if anyone else has any more quick check items pls chime in!

@DBSwiss – Yep, there is some good alpine access here. Don't know a Wolfram (yet).

 

[MikeP]

... thx for the item list ... if anyone else has any more quick check items pls chime in!

Somewhere earlier in this thread there's a post with "stuff to make sure is present when you collect your bike". Have a search, you should find it quick enough

 

[ragetty]

Somewhere earlier in this thread there's a post with "stuff to make sure is present when you collect your bike". Have a search, you should find it quick enough

… OK, post #1100 and thereabouts - although not one word from your suggestion was helpful in getting a result

 

[Emailsucks98]

... thx for the item list ... if anyone else has any more quick check items pls chime in!

@DBSwiss – Yep, there is some good alpine access here. Don't know a Wolfram (yet).

I wouldn’t be fussed if you get the alu cranks, as the aluminum cranks have a narrower Q-factor and aren’t much heavier. Ask for the sleeve that goes over the BB spindle when tightening the lock-ring, and make sure your firmware is up to date. Ask for volume spacers for the fork & shock.

Other than that, like any new bike, fasteners will stretch and it’ll need to be gone over with a torque wrench. If the cables are too long, you may want those shortened up. I’m in the DIY camp on all that, manuals are great and readily available.

 

[Flow81]

Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.

Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.

My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.

When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.

Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.

Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?

 

[Borut]

Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.

Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.

My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.

When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.

Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.

Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?

I owe scott lumen and drag of motor is for sure more then 3w, levo sl had 2w drag with no assistance. However now they will change it under warranty cause its giving clicking noise when u pedal it without assistance or over 25kmh....

 

[MikeP]

… OK, post #1100 and thereabouts - although not one word from your suggestion was helpful in getting a result

Haha, you found it though! Hope you like the new bike

 

[Mteam]

Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.

Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.

My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.

When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.

Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.

Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?

I've had 2 motors now, and both had no noticeable drag with the motor off.

There was someone on the MTBr forum saying the same as you though,so I suspect there is some issue with some motors.

 

[socal_rider]

Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.

Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.

My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.

When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.

Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.

Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?

I’ve tried pedaling uphill with the motor off. It sucks! I was thinking that using assistance over the last few months has jaded my senses and sapped some of my fitness. But after reading your comments, I wonder…

 

[Emailsucks98]

I’ve tried pedaling uphill with the motor off. It sucks! I was thinking that using assistance over the last few months has jaded my senses and sapped some of my fitness. But after reading your comments, I wonder…

I've assumed it's my fitness and that's not covered under warranty. Although I'm mainly an ECO/distance guy on my Fuel, I rode my hardtail the other day and climbing did not feel good at all!

 

[Swingset]

Gateway drug for sure. Start up the hill with the motor off and you end up starting a conversation with your left thumb about that magic toggle switch on the bar. My thumb has very little will power as it turns out.

 

[pat1032]

It could be your motor, or bolts, or it could be just about anything else. eBikes require a lot of maintenance, not just the Fuel EXe.

For me, the motor has been the quietest and lowest Maintenace part of the bike. I wouldn't assume it's the motor (or motor bolts) until you've checked the pedals, pedal bearings, crank arm bolts, rear axle, derailuer (at hanger bolt), cassette greased & tight on the freehub, check all pivots w/torque wrench, and ruled out the seatpost (assuming it does click when you're out of the saddle)

Hey thanks. I have a bike stand and am thinking of checking the pivots and regressing them myself as well as the seat post. Not sure how to go about assessing the rear axle or derailer. I Need to buy a torque wrench though. You have any good videos online that can walk me though this process. Also, does washing and cleaning your bike after each ride potentially dry out your pivots? Thanks for the help

 

[Emailsucks98]

Also, does washing and cleaning your bike after each ride potentially dry out your pivots? Thanks for the help

Right on- DIY maintenance is well worth the effort. I still hit up my LBS for suspension service or more complicated stuff.

You'll get a lot of different answers on the washing topic, depends on where you live etc. My routine is basically to wash every 4-8 rides (mixed condition) or after any really muddy rides (which is most rides here in the winter). Just a quick spray-off, then I wipe the bike down with silicone spray. I wipe &lube chain and check tire pressure at least every other ride. I do check all the fasteners above every on new bikes- after 1st ride, 3rd, 6th, 12, then monthly, etc. Even then, twice I've had a crank-arm bolt come loose, which I was able to tighten on the trail. check the headset, lube the dropper post (grease under collar), check brake pads

 

[pat1032]

Right on- DIY maintenance is well worth the effort. I still hit up my LBS for suspension service or more complicated stuff.

You'll get a lot of different answers on the washing topic, depends on where you live etc. My routine is basically to wash every 4-8 rides (mixed condition) or after any really muddy rides (which is most rides here in the winter). Just a quick spray-off, then I wipe the bike down with silicone spray. I wipe &lube chain and check tire pressure at least every other ride. I do check all the fasteners above every on new bikes- after 1st ride, 3rd, 6th, 12, then monthly, etc. Even then, twice I've had a crank-arm bolt come loose, which I was able to tighten on the trail. check the headset, lube the dropper post (grease under collar), check brake pads

Gotcha. I’m hopeful putting some grease in the bolts/pivots will fix the creaking. Is it common practice to have to remove e-bike frame bolts and re grease if they are dry? Or will keeping it clean prevent me from
Needing to do that. Lastly, when loosening those bolts that are tightened to 20nM, what do you use? I’ve tried just using my multi tool but can’t seem to loosen it, I’m wondering if I need another tool with more leverage

 

[souldriver]

Does anyone know if batteries and extenders are available yet?

In Germany not. My Trek Dealer announce it for Mid June, other dealer for End June. So I have to master my first trip to the alps with my ex-e without an extender.

 

[Balboa]

Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.

Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.

My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.

When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.

Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.

Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?

I do reconise this drag 'problem'. Starting with the motor off there is no drag, but when it's has been used a while and after turning it off, I feel a noticeable drag. Thought that it was a mindfuck, but after reading your post I doubt that it is a mindfuck. I don't reconise the range problem.

How did you proof the drag problem to the LBS/TREK?

 

[BiGJZ74]

Can anyone post the Serial number to there RS Super Deluxe on there Fuel EXe 9.8xt? I wanna check out the tuning on RS Trailhead plus I was wondering if its the new model with Hydraulic Bottom out. I would want to extend the stroke to 65mm but i know the Shocks w/ HBO need new shafts and no longer require simple spacer removal. If it does have HBO I'd probably just throw on a Factory Float X

 

[Expidia]

Gotcha. I’m hopeful putting some grease in the bolts/pivots will fix the creaking. Is it common practice to have to remove e-bike frame bolts and re grease if they are dry? Or will keeping it clean prevent me from
Needing to do that. Lastly, when loosening those bolts that are tightened to 20nM, what do you use? I’ve tried just using my multi tool but can’t seem to loosen it, I’m wondering if I need another tool with more leverage

I'm looking at maybe picking up a Fuel as a light weight 2nd ebike, so I'm folowing this thread.
Pivot creaking tip: first Trek shop I went to for creaking pivots (Creaking after only 4-6 months on a 10 month old Trek) they replaced all my pivot bearings under warranty. Creaking came back within a few rides. 2nd shop a company owned Trek shop re-torqued and lubed the pivot bearings (no charge). I asked what lube they used and he said TriFlow. Maybe 10 rides later faint creaking started, so I lightly sprayed pivots with TriFlow again (Amazon carries Triflow) and so far so good. Bike is totally silent again (I hate clicks or creaks). I've read to be careful with lube as you don't want to over lube and wash away the actual grease inside the bearing itself. Also, using the "wrong lube" can eventualy wash away some of the bearing grease (the Trek shop tech suggested to me).

BTW at least in the U.S. if you read Trek's warranty it only covers parts, not the shops labor (which is usually the expensive part of a repair!

 

[Swingset]

I fall into the camp of not washing much- and by not- almost never. The chain gets its love but generally water allows abrasives into places where they might not want to go on their own. I am in Cali so my results should differ greatly from those in muddier areas.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Gotcha. I’m hopeful putting some grease in the bolts/pivots will fix the creaking. Is it common practice to have to remove e-bike frame bolts and re grease if they are dry? Or will keeping it clean prevent me from
Needing to do that. Lastly, when loosening those bolts that are tightened to 20nM, what do you use? I’ve tried just using my multi tool but can’t seem to loosen it, I’m wondering if I need another tool with more leverage.
Also, does washing and cleaning your bike after each ride potentially dry out your pivots? Thanks for the help

My pivots on this bike have been quiet so far. I haven't had to touch them yet, but I've not been so lucky with other bikes.
If you are going to pull the pivots apart, proceed with caution. Make sure you have a good torque wrench and you've read through the service manual. Blue locktite on clean threads, grease everywhere else. I typically pop the seals out of the bearings and pack them with grease too. For me this is a yearly job, and I won't hesitate to take it to a shop that specializes in suspension service.

Hosing your bike off isn't great for the pivots, also spray lubes can attract dirt. If it was assembled properly (grease, lock-tite, torque wrench), you shouldn't have a problem for a while. Far as cleaning goes, just avoid spraying water directly at the pivots, better to wipe those areas with a wet rag or brush. Hope that all helps.

 

[Flow81]

I do reconise this drag 'problem'. Starting with the motor off there is no drag, but when it's has been used a while and after turning it off, I feel a noticeable drag. Thought that it was a mindfuck, but after reading your post I doubt that it is a mindfuck. I don't reconise the range problem.

How did you proof the drag problem to the LBS/TREK?

Exactly the phenomenon. I can only think it has to do with heat , and some materials expanding, which adds friction and keep the motor “engaged”. The tolerances looks tight in there, so could be hit and miss between motors.
LBS had to ride the bike on a steep incline, because it is not as noticeable on the flats and definitely not in the bikestand. It is pronounced when the load on the chain increases.
Same issue above 20mph, bike is almost impossible to pedal when motor cuts out on speed limiter.

 

[pat1032]

My pivots on this bike have been quiet so far. I haven't had to touch them yet, but I've not been so lucky with other bikes.
If you are going to pull the pivots apart, proceed with caution. Make sure you have a good torque wrench and you've read through the service manual. Blue locktite on clean threads, grease everywhere else. I typically pop the seals out of the bearings and pack them with grease too. For me this is a yearly job, and I won't hesitate to take it to a shop that specializes in suspension service.

Hosing your bike off isn't great for the pivots, also spray lubes can attract dirt. If it was assembled properly (grease, lock-tite, torque wrench), you shouldn't have a problem for a while. Far as cleaning goes, just avoid spraying water directly at the pivots, better to wipe those areas with a wet rag or brush. Hope that all helps.

It does! Thanks! How often do you think realistically I should service my fork and shock? I. ride pretty consistently at least once a week here in CA. I know Trek has their recommendations but i know the suspension service at my LBS isn't cheap.

 

[jabar1975]

It does! Thanks! How often do you think realistically I should service my fork and shock? I. ride pretty consistently at least once a week here in CA. I know Trek has their recommendations but i know the suspension service at my LBS isn't cheap.

Fox and RS have specific service intervals, afaik Fox a bit longer. I wouldn’t wait more then 100hrs, and strongly recommend to do proper first service right after buying bike, mass production means not enough oil (and rather cheap one), not enough grease on seals (seals could also by change to better) after full professional service my analog 9.7 changed characteristics massively. In exe I just put all 9.5 suspension parts in trash bin

 

[BiGJZ74]

It does! Thanks! How often do you think realistically I should service my fork and shock? I. ride pretty consistently at least once a week here in CA. I know Trek has their recommendations but i know the suspension service at my LBS isn't cheap.

Follow the recommendations of the Manufacturer or for me I do it once a minimum once a season depending on how much I ride...which is about 100hrs if u ride 2 hours once a week once s week. I do the service myself so when i'm riding more I'll service sooner.

 

[pat1032]

Follow the recommendations of the Manufacturer or for me I do it once a minimum once a season depending on how much I ride...which is about 100hrs if u ride 2 hours once a week once s week. I do the service myself so when i'm riding more I'll service sooner.

I'm sure youtube will be my friend but do you think it's realistic to service the fork and shock myself after watching/learning some tutorial videos online? IS the service you are doing the full rebuild or the basic servicing of the fork and shock?

 

[BiGJZ74]

Basic lower leg service w/Oil, Seals, Foam Rings, not air/damper cartridge rebuilds. I learned from reading the service guide then watching videos For both RS and Fox

 

[RayBiss]

Hi all, just recieved my new EX-e, I have the range extender coming and looking at the bike, I can see that the water bottle holder can be moved higher. I'm thinking of trying to move it up for the range extender and add another holder in the lower screws to put a water bottle in.
Do you think the range extender will fit higher?

 

[Swingset]

Hi all, just recieved my new EX-e, I have the range extender coming and looking at the bike, I can see that the water bottle holder can be moved higher. I'm thinking of trying to move it up for the range extender and add another holder in the lower screws to put a water bottle in.
Do you think the range extender will fit higher?

Are you proposing drilling your own holes in the down tube?