Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[CJaMTB]

This is correct or at least it is possible with no obvious immediate impacts. I'm running that now. I have the matching SRAM crankset/chainring sitting in my garage closet but decided not to install it yet after taking a test ride with the cassette and derailleur only installed. I may change my mind later but I doubt I could tell the difference. It might matter more to someone far more skilled than me.

NB: I could easily be wrong and there could be wear implications that I don't know about. @Cell4soul is generally full of great info and seems far more experienced than I am.

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but the SRAM Eagle system uses and X-Sync chainring, which works alongside the XX1 chain to give thousands of kms of wear life (I have two, both fitted to ebikes, that between them have covered over 5,000kms, neither of which are showing beyond 0.5 wear!). You may be running a lower spec chain (GX or lower), which would mean the chainring choice is not as crucial as with the higher spec chains, in which case you can ignore me! If you're running an XX1 chain though, the X-Sync chainrings are well worth spending time and money on.

 

[JP-NZ]

Just a general question for all you lucky EX-E owners.

Percentage wise how much harder is it to pedal with motor off than a regular analogue bike? Granted its a 18-19kg trail bike but just trying to get an idea on motor drag with it off compared to other mid support emtbs.

TIA

 

[Smr238]

Just a general question for all you lucky EX-E owners.

Percentage wise how much harder is it to pedal with motor off than a regular analogue bike? Granted its a 18-19kg trail bike but just trying to get an idea on motor drag with it off compared to other mid support emtbs.

TIA

Not much. It’s heavier but totally rideable no motor

 

[az2au]

Int

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but the SRAM Eagle system uses and X-Sync chainring, which works alongside the XX1 chain to give thousands of kms of wear life (I have two, both fitted to ebikes, that between them have covered over 5,000kms, neither of which are showing beyond 0.5 wear!). You may be running a lower spec chain (GX or lower), which would mean the chainring choice is not as crucial as with the higher spec chains, in which case you can ignore me! If you're running an XX1 chain though, the X-Sync chainrings are well worth spending time and money on.

Interesting. I am running the XX1 chain. Based on this perhaps I'll put the one I have on this weekend.

 

[TopUnit]

Request for photo of the chain ring Lock Nut (if you happen to have it off)
I'd like to make sure my 3D model has this right.
I'd like a photo of both sides of the nut.
The inside should have an oring and seal attached to, if not then a photo of that would be interesting too.

 

[az2au]

Request for photo of the chain ring Lock Nut (if you happen to have it off)
I'd like to make sure my 3D model has this right.
I'd like a photo of both sides of the nut.
The inside should have an oring and seal attached to, if not then a photo of that would be interesting too.

If I have time to do it I’ll definitely take a pic. If I don’t then I’ll be out of town until early Jan so it’ll have to wait.

 

[Gd3fit]

Backorder the 104BCD spider that comes on the higher-end versions from FSA. When it eventually gets here, buy a wolftooth chain bash.

I cannot see how ISCG mounts could have been achieved with the motor.

Hm, so does this spider allow to use a standard Sram chainring? I was confused what is the mounting style of this TQ motor's chainring. I understand the cranks are ISIS? Still learning a bunch for the bottom bracket area..

 

[Gd3fit]

I finally had my first ride on the 9.7 and wow it was so fun. The motor feeling was a little strange at first but it really started feeling natural and fun as I kept pushing. I had a modified level 2 with more assist and response and I really enjoyed it for the rather chill FL trails I rode today. Once some rocks and minor technical climbing started though the low bottom bracket started showing itself. I had a few very close pedal strikes where only the bottom of the pedal screw scraped a root, but a few times I did a full on pedal bash. Part of it is technique but it is definitely lower than my 5010 in LOW setting, especially after sag. I think I could do a 160mm crank or even 155mm cranks and be fine.

Can someone help me confirm that these praxis 160mm cranks in Standard AL ISIS $80 USD will work on the Fuel EX TQ motor fine? Since I have alloy e13, I will need a crank puller tool and a ISIS bottom bracket tool correct?

 

[DBSwiss]

I recently got a little obsessed with understanding how the HPR50 worked
I ended up making a full 3D cad model
Might be interesting to some of you

This is awesome! Thanks for sharing this.

 

[DBSwiss]

Just a general question for all you lucky EX-E owners.

Percentage wise how much harder is it to pedal with motor off than a regular analogue bike? Granted its a 18-19kg trail bike but just trying to get an idea on motor drag with it off compared to other mid support emtbs.

TIA

I like to ride the EXe up some steep gravel climbs with the motor turned off and it climbs really well. It is of course heavier but the motor seems to have close to no drag.

 

[az2au]

Just a general question for all you lucky EX-E owners.

Percentage wise how much harder is it to pedal with motor off than a regular analogue bike? Granted its a 18-19kg trail bike but just trying to get an idea on motor drag with it off compared to other mid support emtbs.

TIA

There are a few places I rid where they take "no motorized vehicles" to mean no pedal assist bikes so I just ride with it off. It is not significantly different than my Niner Rip 9 RDO on those trails. A little but not significant.

 

[Mteam]

I finally had my first ride on the 9.7 and wow it was so fun. The motor feeling was a little strange at first but it really started feeling natural and fun as I kept pushing. I had a modified level 2 with more assist and response and I really enjoyed it for the rather chill FL trails I rode today. Once some rocks and minor technical climbing started though the low bottom bracket started showing itself. I had a few very close pedal strikes where only the bottom of the pedal screw scraped a root, but a few times I did a full on pedal bash. Part of it is technique but it is definitely lower than my 5010 in LOW setting, especially after sag. I think I could do a 160mm crank or even 155mm cranks and be fine.

Can someone help me confirm that these praxis 160mm cranks in Standard AL ISIS $80 USD will work on the Fuel EX TQ motor fine? Since I have alloy e13, I will need a crank puller tool and a ISIS bottom bracket tool correct?

View attachment 102745 View attachment 102746

You need the crank puller but you dont need the isis bottom bracket tool

 

[Free_Tibet]

I like to ride the EXe up some steep gravel climbs with the motor turned off and it climbs really well. It is of course heavier but the motor seems to have close to no drag.

I would have made the same comment regarding "close to no drag" with the assistance off... but since the Update of October 31, I started getting occasions of a lot of drag on steep climbs with the assistance turned off / system powered off. At the same time as the update, the Trek mechanic said he adjusted the crank arm alignment. So I am not sure what caused it to start having the drag sensation that I had not felt before in a month of riding.

Hopefully it will "resolve itself" or a later update will address it so it goes back to it's original "close to no drag" feel.

 

[XrayZulu]

I would have made the same comment regarding "close to no drag" with the assistance off... but since the Update of October 31, I started getting occasions of a lot of drag on steep climbs with the assistance turned off / system powered off. At the same time as the update, the Trek mechanic said he adjusted the crank arm alignment. So I am not sure what caused it to start having the drag sensation that I had not felt before in a month of riding.

Hopefully it will "resolve itself" or a later update will address it so it goes back to it's original "close to no drag" feel.

This may have something to do with it... maybe incorrect adjustment of crank arm......


"Crank replacement
Index marking
Standard crank installation
Important. Prior to removing cranks, take note of the current
installation. Re-install cranks to this position. Installing
cranks differently will cause the motor to run rough for
the first few hundred metres of riding. However, the motor
will learn the new crank position after a few hundred
metres."

Page 13 of the Service Manual

 

[Free_Tibet]

This may have something to do with it... maybe incorrect adjustment of crank arm......


"Crank replacement
Index marking
Standard crank installation
Important. Prior to removing cranks, take note of the current
installation. Re-install cranks to this position. Installing
cranks differently will cause the motor to run rough for
the first few hundred metres of riding. However, the motor
will learn the new crank position after a few hundred
metres."

Page 13 of the Service Manual

Hi,
Thanks, yes - the same thing popped into my mind when the drag started to happen as I had remembered that Service Bulletin re the alignments. However I have subsequently ridden quite a distance (about 70 kms) since the mechanic did the "alignment" so it should have re-establised itself by now. Actually my motor system was working well prior to the mechanic doing the alignment tweak work, so he must have spotted something that he thought best to adjust. Anyhooo, will see how it goes at the next update I get done once I hear TQ have released a new version

 

[Mteam]

Does anyone know which e thirteen chain guide is used on the fuel exe, the trek website lists the following

"Trek chain guide for Fuel EX-e 29 2023, made by e*Thirteen, e*Spec Plus chainguide, aluminum backplate, 30-38t chainring compatibility, Iso Compact Slider, Black"

But has no part number, the e thirteen website (link below) has two types of chain guard that fit the above description, it says one fits shimano e8000/ep 8 motor, and the other fits bosch gen 4 - which of these fits the TQ motor on the trek? or is it an entirely different chain guide?

It looks like the difference between the shimano and bosch fitting is due to the orientation of the mounting bolt slots in the guide. with one motor they are between the 11 and 4 positions (on a clockface), the other they are between 12 and 6. I guess I can go and look at my motor and find out where the mounting bolts are, but just wondering if anyone knows?

e*spec Plus Chainguide

Our e*spec Plus Chainguides are designed specifically for use with eBikes. An ISO-conforming upper slider keeps your guide on and your clothing out of your drivetrain, and a carbon-injected backplate delivers ultimate strength in a lightweight package.

www.ethirteen.com

edit : just been to look at the bike, the mounting bolt points on the fuel exe are not into the motor (which is presumably why there is no bash guard option) , but are into the frame, they are at approx the 1 and 2 oclock positions. I also have a bike with the bosch motor and the ethirteen guide, so at some point I will try and move it to the fuel and see if it fits.

or could someone with a fuel with the chain guide take a close up photo of the motor area of the bike so I can work out which guide is fitted.

edit again: answered my own question (again) - looks like it is neither of the two chain guides in the e13 link above, screen grab taken from a you tube video

 

[Flow81]

Hi,
Thanks, yes - the same thing popped into my mind when the drag started to happen as I had remembered that Service Bulletin re the alignments. However I have subsequently ridden quite a distance (about 70 kms) since the mechanic did the "alignment" so it should have re-establised itself by now. Actually my motor system was working well prior to the mechanic doing the alignment tweak work, so he must have spotted something that he thought best to adjust. Anyhooo, will see how it goes at the next update I get done once I hear TQ have released a new version

Yea same here. Changed cranks, but didn’t “save” the previous crank orientation, now I have a “draggy” motor. Maybe I should try and “find” the original orientation by loosening the cranks and moving the clocking of the cranks to find the original factory position
Because there is no marking on the spindle of where it should go.

 

[Mteam]

Yea same here. Changed cranks, but didn’t “save” the previous crank orientation, now I have a “draggy” motor. Maybe I should try and “find” the original orientation by loosening the cranks and moving the clocking of the cranks to find the original factory position
Because there is no marking on the spindle of where it should go.

The trek manual says there is a mark on the spindle indicating the correct crank position. looks like the corner is "cut off" from one of the splines.

 

[Free_Tibet]

The trek manual says there is a mark on the spindle indicating the correct crank position. looks like the corner is "cut off" from one of the splines. View attachment 102800

Thanks for that. I had noted that Trek info some time back... but as the Trek mechanic saw fit to tweak the alignment I haven't taken the crank off to check if it is aligned as per the Service Manual and don't want to mess with what he has done. I have been away from home the past 4 weeks and when I get back next week I know the Trek store team will be crazy busy with Xmas bike builds... so I will discuss early next year with them (and maybe by then the new TQ software version might be released )

 

[Mteam]

Does anyone know which e thirteen chain guide is used on the fuel exe, the trek website lists the following

"Trek chain guide for Fuel EX-e 29 2023, made by e*Thirteen, e*Spec Plus chainguide, aluminum backplate, 30-38t chainring compatibility, Iso Compact Slider, Black"

But has no part number, the e thirteen website (link below) has two types of chain guard that fit the above description, it says one fits shimano e8000/ep 8 motor, and the other fits bosch gen 4 - which of these fits the TQ motor on the trek? or is it an entirely different chain guide?

It looks like the difference between the shimano and bosch fitting is due to the orientation of the mounting bolt slots in the guide. with one motor they are between the 11 and 4 positions (on a clockface), the other they are between 12 and 6. I guess I can go and look at my motor and find out where the mounting bolts are, but just wondering if anyone knows?

e*spec Plus Chainguide

Our e*spec Plus Chainguides are designed specifically for use with eBikes. An ISO-conforming upper slider keeps your guide on and your clothing out of your drivetrain, and a carbon-injected backplate delivers ultimate strength in a lightweight package.

www.ethirteen.com

edit : just been to look at the bike, the mounting bolt points on the fuel exe are not into the motor (which is presumably why there is no bash guard option) , but are into the frame, they are at approx the 1 and 2 oclock positions. I also have a bike with the bosch motor and the ethirteen guide, so at some point I will try and move it to the fuel and see if it fits.

or could someone with a fuel with the chain guide take a close up photo of the motor area of the bike so I can work out which guide is fitted.

edit again: answered my own question (again) - looks like it is neither of the two chain guides in the e13 link above, screen grab taken from a you tube video

View attachment 102801

so, I tried fitting the bosch e13 chain guide, it fits (see photo), but would need a couple of modifications to fit nicely:-

- The guide itself doesnt go low enough over the chain, so the adjustment slot that this fits in would need extending to allow the guide to sit lower.
- Because the fuel doesnt have ISCG05 mounting points, the assembly mounts to the frame with both bolts using the upper mounting slot, the lower mounting slot is superfluous and fouls the motor slightly, so this would need hack sawing off.

All in all, probably best to get the official trek guide, but in a pinch the bosch one could be made to work ok I think.

 

[Swingset]

My cockpit.

Rigged for night riding after much goofing around with various mounting scenarios. This one seems to be working well. I use this Oxbow Voyager 2100 lumen on my motorcycle helmets as well. I bought a PNW stem with their Go Pro swivel mount for the light mount. Puts it in a perfect spot and easy to take off. I just strap the battery to the One Up bar and its clean. The K Edge Garmin mount was in the way over the stem so I rotated it 90 degrees. Worked great.

Mounted my Nite Rider Lumina 1000 onto my helmet so no wires leading up there. Takes about thirty seconds to convert it back to day use.

Little evening cruise last night.

 

[Flow81]

I think these MRP XCg bashguards can work as far as possible mounting holes goes.

I almost ordered one, but then I looked at the mounting holes on the bike. It is literally 2 holes in the carbon frame, and looks like it really is just for a chain device. The impact from a rockstrike on a makeshift bashguard solution fitted to those holes will almost certainly crack the frame in those spots. So I refrained from ordering the guard, and will ride the bike without.

As far as chainring mounted bashguards, I found this photo on a Facebook EXe group, and this frame was damaged after impact to the chainring. So a hit to a chainring mounted bashguard will almost certainly crack your motor out of your frame.

 

[Chris James]

The trek manual says there is a mark on the spindle indicating the correct crank position. looks like the corner is "cut off" from one of the splines.

View attachment 102800

My 9.5 didn't have any Index Markings

 

[Gd3fit]

As far as chainring mounted bashguards, I found this photo on a Facebook EXe group, and this frame was damaged after impact to the chainring. So a hit to a chainring mounted bashguard will almost certainly crack your motor out of your frame.

Sheesh, I hit my chainring today, that's wild how the frame cracked like that after an impact to their chainring. I am loving the mullet but the low BB is definitely a problem for me. I only hit the chainring once, but have had several scrapes here and there. I am ratcheting as best I can, still learning, but it has given me less confidence going over certain rooty and rocky areas... I don't want to put on the rear 29er as I prefer the 27.5, but I might have to test it. I'm 5'6" and have preferred 27.5 and mullet prior to the EX-e.. I didn't get along too well with previous full 29er but also the bike frame was slightly too large for me so that could be part of the problem. I could use some 155mm cranks lol

 

[njatherton]

Re. Loose lower shock mount.

Service manual states bolt is M8x1x60mm but the Trek bolt is the cause of the problem (too much thread inside spacer). I ordered a different bolt off ebay where the body goes all the way through the spacer. Problem is, the service manual is (yet again?) wrong, the thread pitch is 1.25 (the nut is listed as M8 x 1.25 x 6.5). Trek do supply a M8 x 1.25 x 64mm bolt (W511147) which has a long body. I will get one from my TLBS & report back.

 

[TorAtle]

Would anyone take a guess at what the Fuel Exe would weigh if equipped with the same components as the Scott Lumen SL? Obviously without reducing the suspension travel.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Sheesh, I hit my chainring today, that's wild how the frame cracked like that after an impact to their chainring. I am loving the mullet but the low BB is definitely a problem for me.

I’m thinking that failed frame on FB was an outlier/QC issue….

Have you gone 160mm fork & high mode? What shock?

I have mullet thoughts, coming from a mulleted Propain Tyee 29cf...very happy with the Fuel EXe in mullet form.

 

[Gd3fit]

I’m thinking that failed frame on FB was an outlier/QC issue….

Have you gone 160mm fork & high mode? What shock?

I have mullet thoughts, coming from a mulleted Propain Tyee 29cf...very happy with the Fuel EXe in mullet form.

Yes I changed my air spring on my 22 Pike Ultimate to 160 and high mode. Fox Float X shock stock on the 9.7. What’s your measured BB height? I’m right at 13” to middle of crank bolt or 330mm. Lower than my 5010 27.5 in low mode haha (336mm)

 

[Flow81]

Yes I changed my air spring on my 22 Pike Ultimate to 160 and high mode. Fox Float X shock stock on the 9.7. What’s your measured BB height? I’m right at 13” to middle of crank bolt or 330mm. Lower than my 5010 27.5 in low mode haha (336mm)

Ah man thats low

I am on mullet, small frame, high mode, 160mm Fox36, with a 2.6 27.5 DHR rear. Fox Float x factory shock and a reversed offset bushing in bottom eyelet. I am getting a 336mm BB height on a good day.

Problem is to install the offset bushing correctly and to keep it in the reversed orientation.

I did get 160mm cranks, which helps. But I would’ve liked to run 150mm forks to get the stack lower. Might still do.

Bike in mullet config is awesome though. Giving very little up on my previous 27.5 Yeti SB6.

 

[Gd3fit]

reversed offset bushing

can you point me in the right direction regarding obtaining this offset bushing? I have XR4 in 27.5 x 2.4 in the rear which is also giving up a little bit of tire volume height. Anything closer to 336mm I could definitely be okay with as that is what I was used to before with 165mm cranks. Thanks!