Larger frame maybe?
SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)
- Thread starter TCFlowClyde
- Start date
This.
My frame is L, and tops a 52.5mm stroke could fit before the linkage contacts
or use a Jagwire rotor with the magnet built in.
TCFlowClyde
Active member
- Thread starter
- #2,195
Shoot you might be right!
Had a bigger drop (for me anyway 2.5-3ft) on technical terrain over last weekend. First, real bigger stress test. So, I thought it smart to just double-check the pivots this morning. A small black paint flek or two flaked off when I rubbed the pivot joint aggressively on NDS this morning. Nothing on the DS. I could not get a focused cell pic of it.So, could be some microfriction and binding going on. I might have to shave down the area a 1-2 mm out of caution (if possible) when I re-essemble the build with my new warranty front triangle in a few weeks. I'm headed out soon to a weeklong E-mtb trip.
Also, out of caution, I'll add in my 2.5 mm orange travel spacer and reduce the MegNeg to a 52.5 mm stroke. Again, when I disassemble the linkage to paint the rear triangle, I can give it a proper inspection. It might be wise to just shave it down regardless while I have it apart.
I'll update in a few weeks when/if successfully completed.
Update #1 (same day). I flipped over my bike and got some better light on the seatstay pivots. I scratched my fingernail on the flaking areas and exposed some more pitting. So, it looks like a little binding is occurring. Close enough to
start to loosen a coat of thin primer off a bit. Looks like I'll put in travel spacer and try to shave down the rocker arm a little when I paint it in a few weeks.
Update #2. (Same day later) Or not?
I deflated the shock to absolute bottom out, flipped bike over, pushed forcibly on rear triangle with one arm to pin the max compression. Slipped in a piece of paper and it moved freely on both pivot joints. No pinch marks. Then, I tried thin cardboard, and it DID leave a pinch mark it. So, there's some room.
Since my OEM pivot bolt was too short and the mating screw sheared off a few weeks ago, I might have chipped paint in that rocker joint area. And the NDS shows more "wear" friction where the pivot bolt sheered off. I had to ride 8 miles back to my truck, so maybe 55 stroke does actually work as intially hoped.
I honestly haven't felt any hard carbon-carbon contact points or twitching sounds yet. Maybe adrelanine was running high when I did the recent drop,.but it felt smooth and don't remember any stress noises (and I've cracked two carbon analogue frames/stays' so I know the noise/feel unfortunately 🫨).
Updated Remedy: I'll re-paint those areas black with a fresh coat and test it out. And I'll keep a close eye on it for new paint chipping to see if it's really binding.
Last edited:
Stephen B
Member
Yes that is exactly what I meant. I just went back and re-read my post and it does sound opposite of what I meant to say.
I meant allowable linkage travel to allow for 55mm shock stroke or better keep linkage the same and reduce shock stroke.
Myalteregohamish
Active member
I know we’re all trying to experiment here, and I have my own version of that. I was curious how much of a difference a 150 rear travel and 160 front travel would feel like compared to my recent purchase of my CanyonTorque.
I’ve ridden our bike, on the same trails, taking it off the same jump lines and off the same drops. Just to give you an idea the air/drop I’m getting. There’s a large drop that’s got to be 6-8 feet vertical to almost flat. The 150 rear end handles it stellar. I have no concerns over the bike feeling unstable at 150.
On jump lines, keep in mind these are 6 foot 15 foot gaps, so that should give you an idea of the amount of air required to land those. I took it down that jump line last night, and I don’t get quite as much pop or air as my 180 does on my torque on, but I think that’s just me getting used to the amount of speed required. That said, I did case the rear, slightly on the landing onto the jumps, but as I said, I think that’s an issue of speed more than anything else .
I tell you all this mainly to illustrate to myself as much as anybody else listening that 150 goes a long way and if it’s a difference between 50 and 52.5 and the increased travel by 5 mm I got to be honest, I don’t think it’s worth it if it means there’s a possibility about the frames taking some of the impact . Maybe I’m off here. What are you guys think?
I’ve ridden our bike, on the same trails, taking it off the same jump lines and off the same drops. Just to give you an idea the air/drop I’m getting. There’s a large drop that’s got to be 6-8 feet vertical to almost flat. The 150 rear end handles it stellar. I have no concerns over the bike feeling unstable at 150.
On jump lines, keep in mind these are 6 foot 15 foot gaps, so that should give you an idea of the amount of air required to land those. I took it down that jump line last night, and I don’t get quite as much pop or air as my 180 does on my torque on, but I think that’s just me getting used to the amount of speed required. That said, I did case the rear, slightly on the landing onto the jumps, but as I said, I think that’s an issue of speed more than anything else .
I tell you all this mainly to illustrate to myself as much as anybody else listening that 150 goes a long way and if it’s a difference between 50 and 52.5 and the increased travel by 5 mm I got to be honest, I don’t think it’s worth it if it means there’s a possibility about the frames taking some of the impact . Maybe I’m off here. What are you guys think?
There’s only one way to measure it and its not with the shock installed (since even without air is hard to top it out).
1) take out the shock
2) measure max distance when linkage is fully open with a caliper. This is measure A
3) measure min distance. This is done when fully “compressed” or all the travel used. This is measure B
Now you have measure A (214mm in the case of CEF50), measure B (157mm for CEF59) and you know the shock length (210mm).
210-157 = 53mm. That’s the max stroke for an L frame.
Measure A is if you want to play with a longer shock, which could be 213x56 max (216x63 with two 1.5mm offset bushings + travel reduced from 63 to 56)
And I agree that 150mm on the cef50 feels like more thanks to the suspension design
1) take out the shock
2) measure max distance when linkage is fully open with a caliper. This is measure A
3) measure min distance. This is done when fully “compressed” or all the travel used. This is measure B
Now you have measure A (214mm in the case of CEF50), measure B (157mm for CEF59) and you know the shock length (210mm).
210-157 = 53mm. That’s the max stroke for an L frame.
Measure A is if you want to play with a longer shock, which could be 213x56 max (216x63 with two 1.5mm offset bushings + travel reduced from 63 to 56)
And I agree that 150mm on the cef50 feels like more thanks to the suspension design
Herculesridesebikes
New Member
I agree, 150 is plenty enough. It's also super simple to remove a spacer if you want to test out 52.5 stoke. You might as well just start with a 50 and go from there.
I’ve been meaning to tell you for months, but wasn’t sure how to break it to you, Vancouver, WA, about 5 hrs south. Still it looks very similar, it was 89 at the house today, I drove 40 mins to Mt on the Oregon side of the Columbia, I literally had the entire forest to myself.
some initial observations, I find sport Plus to be the most useful. It’s the profile that feels the most like my canyon, torquen. I was able to get a solid 2 1/2 hours of riding at that level out of the Bike before it started to throttleback below 30%. That seems to be where it cuts the power in half. The one thing I wish the motor would do, and I’m assuming this is configurable somehow, although I have yet to find a way to modify the software. I would like the The assistance to come on a little quicker. It seems to come on noticeably after about two pedal strokes.
also, I had it up on a downhill trail at about 27 mph. Felt super stable. I have no complaints there. Also the grip going through flat high-speed turns is really impressive on this bike. I felt I could lean it over and push into the side logs easily, and if I wanted to move the backend around with my hips, it responded to input really well. As I learned more about the Bike, I’ll update further.
The bike itself works really well with the suspension. I have on there. Which is a fox float Ex performance and a fox 36 factory. You can almost take a rough estimate of what your settings are or if you are pretty accurate with your rider weight and get pretty close.
View attachment 120857
View attachment 120858
Hey!
Loving your build! Congrats! Would you please tell me your height and why you picked Size XL?
What is that lovely colour of your frame and how satisfied are you with the paintjob?
Thank you mate!
Myalteregohamish
Active member
Yep, I’m 6’2”, long legs, so reach is important to me. I also like to go fast. All my bikes are XL, I value stability over playful. I’d rather figure out how to play with handlebar angle to get more rider input out of the steering. It’s chalk grey in gloss, Linda offered it up to me as alternative to the matte I was going to do. She showed the pic and I was sold immediate. If you order one just send her one of the frame pics and she’ll know right away.
Good luck!
Myalteregohamish
Active member
Yea I agree, feel out what the default geo is supposed to feel like, that way you can compare after removing the spacers. If someone gets around to doing that, I’d love to hear ride impressions.
Alrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
You can find centerlock rotors with integrated magnetsAlrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
View attachment 121178
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
"Hi guys. I recently received it and am in the process of assembling it. I have an announcement and a question. "Let me know first," she said, finishing designing the carbon case when purchasing her spare batteries. In the near future, it seems that you will be able to choose between a genuine aluminum case battery and a carbon case battery. And a question. Is it possible to install a throttle on the M820? Walk mode worked when I connected the meter, wiring and throttle I was using on the M510, but the throttle did not work on the M820. On my trails, I have to push the machine up some really steep hills, and in walk mode it's either too fast or too weak to climb. Anyone know how?"
一般に、フォーラムでは誰もが英語を使おうとします。 これにより、誰もがコミュニケーションしやすくなります。 日本語のほうがはるかに美しく見えますが！
Hello everyone. I recently received it and am assembling it. I have an announcement and a question. "First let me know." She said she finished designing the carbon case when buying spare batteries. It seems that in the near future you will be able to choose between a genuine aluminum case battery and a carbon case battery. and a question. Is it possible to attach a throttle to the M820? The walk mode worked even when I connected the meter, wiring, and throttle that I used with the M510, but the M820 did not work with the throttle. On my trails I have to push the machine up very steep hills and in walk mode it is either too fast or too weak to climb. Anyone know how?
Thank you! I rewrote it in English
A carbon fiber battery case sounds cool, something that could help reduce the weight is good! I don't think the m820 supports a throttle, bafang's site doesn't list it unlike the m510 and other motors.
I also checked the throttle valve, it doesn't work for me. I'm already used to driving without a throttle.
UnreasonableMuppet
Well-known member
Alrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
View attachment 121178
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
You want something like this:
TRP SP-SS20 Centerlock Rotor Magnet for E-Bike Speed Sensor » Bob's Bicycles
The SP-SS20 magnetic speed sensor is compatible with all TRP and Tektro centerlock rotors as well as several other brands. Consult your rotor manufacturer's specifications to ensure fitment.
bobs-bicycles.com
temon10
Well-known member
walk mode is enough power with the right gear.
Yes. If we let them know your interest in the carbon case, they will hopefully prioritise it. Let them know nobody wants a 1kg battery case, that's madness for a bike like this! I already told her, "you make it, I'll buy it"
This was my thinking as well. But I'm starting to feel regret with the opportunity missed for this frame.
I think there was recent announcement of lower end SRAM Transmission?
Not that I have any intention of running Transmission. I just like the idea of a standardised hanger.
Although. after routing cables through the headset, I'm coming around to the idea of wireless as well
My thoughts even include wireless rear brakes! (keeping hydraulic front. because no routing needed and.. you know..in case)
Myalteregohamish
Active member
Yea the glue hack is my handy work. Buy some small round magnets either from local hardware or Amazon, I bought two kinds for different clearance requirements. Stick the magnet on to the rotor in a spot where you get good detection. Once you’ve settled on a spot put a small amount of super glue. On the battery or spot and that’s it. Don’t over do it on the glue as the magnet tends to pull onto the metal splashing glue onto the outer edges of the rotor.Alrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
View attachment 121178
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
Yeah, you're right.This was my thinking as well. But I'm starting to feel regret with the opportunity missed for this frame.
I think there was recent announcement of lower end SRAM Transmission?
Not that I have any intention of running Transmission. I just like the idea of a standardised hanger.
Although. after routing cables through the headset, I'm coming around to the idea of wireless as well
A missed opportunity defintately. An UD Hanger you can buy in propably every bikeshop. Here we'll have to carry a spare or two around.
It's not about the SRAM Transmission, it's more about ease of access to spare parts.
I'll use the "old" GX AXS for the first time on this build.
Thanks, would you mind sharing a picture or two?
Does noone have colour Ideas?
BTW: The fork is Pantone 18-3838 - Ultra Violet...
Oh and by the way: how long does it take a skilled mechanic to remove the motor and change the battery?
I assume one only has to remove the motor-bolts and the connecting cables in addition to the battery bolts?
Should be done in 5-10 minutes? Or am I completely wrong?
I assume one only has to remove the motor-bolts and the connecting cables in addition to the battery bolts?
Should be done in 5-10 minutes? Or am I completely wrong?
I'm not sure if drive side crank and chainring needs to come off for motor bolt access? That would be worst case I would say. otherwise yeah seems simple enough.
Heck, I reckon you could ask around at the trailhead carpark and someone nice would probably loan you a UDH!
Well, I guess Sizing is almost spot on to my Mondraker Crafty RR built as a 29er.
IMO the effective TopTube is even a bit shorter. I think they switched it up in this chart.
Taller headtube makes a bit higher stack.
Should be good in XL. Unfortunately, there is no data for size L. Maybe I'll import it.
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