Larger frame maybe?I still dont get how a 55mm stroke wont break the linkage.
52.5 was the max that it can go when I measured
Larger frame maybe?I still dont get how a 55mm stroke wont break the linkage.
52.5 was the max that it can go when I measured
Initial measures:
Frame max shock extension: 214mm
Frame min shock extension: 157mm
What this means?
With a 210mm eye/eye shock, the maximum stroke can be 52.5mm, anything after that will contact/break the frame as @LAnton said before.
Now to install shocks and take some pictures for clearance. I wont be doing the coil one today since it's installed in my other bike but will go with the Rockshox SD Ultimate and Suntour TriAir, both with piggyback
Larger frame maybe?
or use a Jagwire rotor with the magnet built in.For the power adapter I had a an extra US cable that I just plugged in in its place, no cutting required. The magnet you can get one from specialized or anyone that lines up with speed sensor. I just bought some little round magnets from the hardware store and some gorilla glue. Stuck it on the rotor in the spot that aligns with the sensor.
Shoot you might be right! Had a bigger drop (for me anyway 2.5-3ft) on technical terrain over last weekend. First, real bigger stress test. So, I thought it smart to just double-check the pivots this morning. A small black paint flek or two flaked off when I rubbed the pivot joint aggressively on NDS this morning. Nothing on the DS. I could not get a focused cell pic of it.I still dont get how a 55mm stroke wont break the linkage.
52.5 was the max that it can go when I measured
Yes that is exactly what I meant. I just went back and re-read my post and it does sound opposite of what I meant to say.I still dont get how a 55mm stroke wont break the linkage.
52.5 was the max that it can go when I measured
I agree, 150 is plenty enough. It's also super simple to remove a spacer if you want to test out 52.5 stoke. You might as well just start with a 50 and go from there.I know we’re all trying to experiment here, and I have my own version of that. I was curious how much of a difference a 150 rear travel and 160 front travel would feel like compared to my recent purchase of my CanyonTorque.
I’ve ridden our bike, on the same trails, taking it off the same jump lines and off the same drops. Just to give you an idea the air/drop I’m getting. There’s a large drop that’s got to be 6-8 feet vertical to almost flat. The 150 rear end handles it stellar. I have no concerns over the bike feeling unstable at 150.
On jump lines, keep in mind these are 6 foot 15 foot gaps, so that should give you an idea of the amount of air required to land those. I took it down that jump line last night, and I don’t get quite as much pop or air as my 180 does on my torque on, but I think that’s just me getting used to the amount of speed required. That said, I did case the rear, slightly on the landing onto the jumps, but as I said, I think that’s an issue of speed more than anything else .
I tell you all this mainly to illustrate to myself as much as anybody else listening that 150 goes a long way and if it’s a difference between 50 and 52.5 and the increased travel by 5 mm I got to be honest, I don’t think it’s worth it if it means there’s a possibility about the frames taking some of the impact . Maybe I’m off here. What are you guys think?
I’ve been meaning to tell you for months, but wasn’t sure how to break it to you, Vancouver, WA, about 5 hrs south. Still it looks very similar, it was 89 at the house today, I drove 40 mins to Mt on the Oregon side of the Columbia, I literally had the entire forest to myself.
some initial observations, I find sport Plus to be the most useful. It’s the profile that feels the most like my canyon, torquen. I was able to get a solid 2 1/2 hours of riding at that level out of the Bike before it started to throttleback below 30%. That seems to be where it cuts the power in half. The one thing I wish the motor would do, and I’m assuming this is configurable somehow, although I have yet to find a way to modify the software. I would like the The assistance to come on a little quicker. It seems to come on noticeably after about two pedal strokes.
also, I had it up on a downhill trail at about 27 mph. Felt super stable. I have no complaints there. Also the grip going through flat high-speed turns is really impressive on this bike. I felt I could lean it over and push into the side logs easily, and if I wanted to move the backend around with my hips, it responded to input really well. As I learned more about the Bike, I’ll update further.
The bike itself works really well with the suspension. I have on there. Which is a fox float Ex performance and a fox 36 factory. You can almost take a rough estimate of what your settings are or if you are pretty accurate with your rider weight and get pretty close.
View attachment 120857
View attachment 120858
Yep, I’m 6’2”, long legs, so reach is important to me. I also like to go fast. All my bikes are XL, I value stability over playful. I’d rather figure out how to play with handlebar angle to get more rider input out of the steering. It’s chalk grey in gloss, Linda offered it up to me as alternative to the matte I was going to do. She showed the pic and I was sold immediate. If you order one just send her one of the frame pics and she’ll know right away.Hey!
Loving your build! Congrats! Would you please tell me your height and why you picked Size XL?
What is that lovely colour of your frame and how satisfied are you with the paintjob?
Thank you mate!
Yea I agree, feel out what the default geo is supposed to feel like, that way you can compare after removing the spacers. If someone gets around to doing that, I’d love to hear ride impressions.I agree, 150 is plenty enough. It's also super simple to remove a spacer if you want to test out 52.5 stoke. You might as well just start with a 50 and go from there.
You can find centerlock rotors with integrated magnetsAlrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
View attachment 121178
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
I know.You can find centerlock rotors with integrated magnets
"Hi guys. I recently received it and am in the process of assembling it. I have an announcement and a question. "Let me know first," she said, finishing designing the carbon case when purchasing her spare batteries. In the near future, it seems that you will be able to choose between a genuine aluminum case battery and a carbon case battery. And a question. Is it possible to install a throttle on the M820? Walk mode worked when I connected the meter, wiring and throttle I was using on the M510, but the throttle did not work on the M820. On my trails, I have to push the machine up some really steep hills, and in walk mode it's either too fast or too weak to climb. Anyone know how?"こんにちは、みんな。最近受け取りましたので組み立て中です。お知らせと質問があります。「まずは教えてください。」彼女は、予備の電池を購入するときにカーボンケースの設計を終えたと言いました。近い将来、純正アルミケースバッテリーとカーボンケースバッテリーが選べるようになるそうです。そして質問です。M820にスロットルを取り付けることは可能ですか?M510で使用していたメーター、配線、スロットルを接続してもウォークモードは動作しましたが、M820ではスロットルが動作しませんでした。私のトレイルでは、非常に急な坂道をマシンを押して登らなければなりませんが、ウォークモードでは速すぎるか、弱すぎるかのどちらかで登ることができません。方法を知っている人はいますか?
Thank you! I rewrote it in English"Hi guys. I recently received it and am in the process of assembling it. I have an announcement and a question. "Let me know first," she said, finishing designing the carbon case when purchasing her spare batteries. In the near future, it seems that you will be able to choose between a genuine aluminum case battery and a carbon case battery. And a question. Is it possible to install a throttle on the M820? Walk mode worked when I connected the meter, wiring and throttle I was using on the M510, but the throttle did not work on the M820. On my trails, I have to push the machine up some really steep hills, and in walk mode it's either too fast or too weak to climb. Anyone know how?"
一般に、フォーラムでは誰もが英語を使おうとします。 これにより、誰もがコミュニケーションしやすくなります。 日本語のほうがはるかに美しく見えますが!
A carbon fiber battery case sounds cool, something that could help reduce the weight is good! I don't think the m820 supports a throttle, bafang's site doesn't list it unlike the m510 and other motors.こんにちは、みんな。最近受け取りましたので組み立て中です。お知らせと質問があります。「まずは教えてください。」彼女は、予備の電池を購入するときにカーボンケースの設計を終えたと言いました。近い将来、純正アルミケースバッテリーとカーボンケースバッテリーが選べるようになるそうです。そして質問です。M820にスロットルを取り付けることは可能ですか?M510で使用していたメーター、配線、スロットルを接続してもウォークモードは動作しましたが、M820ではスロットルが動作しませんでした。私のトレイルでは、非常に急な坂道をマシンを押して登らなければなりませんが、ウォークモードでは速すぎるか、弱すぎるかのどちらかで登ることができません。方法を知っている人はいますか?
I also checked the throttle valve, it doesn't work for me. I'm already used to driving without a throttle.A carbon fiber battery case sounds cool, something that could help reduce the weight is good! I don't think the m820 supports a throttle, bafang's site doesn't list it unlike the m510 and other motors.
Alrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
View attachment 121178
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
walk mode is enough power with the right gear.Hello everyone. I recently received it and am assembling it. I have an announcement and a question. "First let me know." She said she finished designing the carbon case when buying spare batteries. It seems that in the near future you will be able to choose between a genuine aluminum case battery and a carbon case battery. and a question. Is it possible to attach a throttle to the M820? The walk mode worked even when I connected the meter, wiring, and throttle that I used with the M510, but the M820 did not work with the throttle. On my trails I have to push the machine up very steep hills and in walk mode it is either too fast or too weak to climb. Anyone know how?
A carbon fiber battery case sounds cool, something that could help reduce the weight is good!
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
Yea the glue hack is my handy work. Buy some small round magnets either from local hardware or Amazon, I bought two kinds for different clearance requirements. Stick the magnet on to the rotor in a spot where you get good detection. Once you’ve settled on a spot put a small amount of super glue. On the battery or spot and that’s it. Don’t over do it on the glue as the magnet tends to pull onto the metal splashing glue onto the outer edges of the rotor.Alrighty, I think I have decided on the CEF50 over the LCE930.
Price, weight, shape and ease of ordering with motor, battery and accessories make the difference. I also like the option of a larger battery.
Sure, a UD hanger would be cool, but not particularly necessary.
I could still use some inspiration with the colour.
I already have a FORMULA Selva S in purple.
View attachment 121178
Do you have any good ideas for a suitable frame colour?
I already have some in mind, but would leave the discussion completely open.
Actually, I wanted to take my time with the build until next year, but scarily enough, many components are already on their way.
I got an offer with 48V with 480mAh, but supposedly there is also a 700 or 720mAh battery.
Also:
Somewhere there was a hack where a magnet was glued to a centrelock brake disc. Can anyone find it?
Otherwise, thank you very much!
Yeah, you're right.This was my thinking as well. But I'm starting to feel regret with the opportunity missed for this frame.
I think there was recent announcement of lower end SRAM Transmission?
Not that I have any intention of running Transmission. I just like the idea of a standardised hanger.
Although. after routing cables through the headset, I'm coming around to the idea of wireless as well My thoughts even include wireless rear brakes! (keeping hydraulic front. because no routing needed and.. you know..in case)
Yea the glue hack is my handy work. Buy some small round magnets either from local hardware or Amazon, I bought two kinds for different clearance requirements. Stick the magnet on to the rotor in a spot where you get good detection. Once you’ve settled on a spot put a small amount of super glue. On the battery or spot and that’s it. Don’t over do it on the glue as the magnet tends to pull onto the metal splashing glue onto the outer edges of the rotor.
Oh and by the way: how long does it take a skilled mechanic to remove the motor and change the battery?
I assume one only has to remove the motor-bolts and the connecting cables in addition to the battery bolts?
Should be done in 5-10 minutes? Or am I completely wrong?
An UD Hanger you can buy in propably every bikeshop.
The World's largest electric mountain bike community.