Strive:ON problems

[Mikerb]

I wouldnt recommend this bike to anyone. These problems are an inexcusable waste of new owners' resources.

An incredibly lame flaw that doesnt get enough attention is that the maximum chainring size is insufficient except for the weakest/slowest riders, and there is nothing we can do about it.

I sympathise with the owners especially since the bike rides so well; but if they expect a better design of the bosch battery clamp will solve the problem I fear they will be disappointed.
I have no doubt re-designed, or 3rd party versions of the clamp, will last longer, but having followed the thread on this problem, I am convinced the clamp is a victim rather than the cause of the problem.
A permanent solution needs to be one that properly secures the battery. I have 2 bikes that use the Bosch clamp, one of which has covered over 1000 miles. Neither bike has caused any problems or damage to the clamp. Both bikes use the full Bosch rail system to hold the battery however.

 

[Quetech]

The stock chainring size is 36t, which works pretty well for me without me calling myself a weak/slow rider, but as we all know, that's relative.

Just checked my Trek rail and it’s a 34 and never really noticed a problem with it other than balls out down hill on the road and then I just freewheel once I’ve beaten the gearing So a 36 should be fine for me.

 

[Tieff]

I sympathise with the owners especially since the bike rides so well; but if they expect a better design of the bosch battery clamp will solve the problem I fear they will be disappointed.
I have no doubt re-designed, or 3rd party versions of the clamp, will last longer, but having followed the thread on this problem, I am convinced the clamp is a victim rather than the cause of the problem.
A permanent solution needs to be one that properly secures the battery. I have 2 bikes that use the Bosch clamp, one of which has covered over 1000 miles. Neither bike has caused any problems or damage to the clamp. Both bikes use the full Bosch rail system to hold the battery however.

That's what I'm saying too. The Canyon Strive:On has an extremely unfortunate (to put it mildly) design when it comes to the battery mount. The 750Wh battery from Bosch weighs 4.3 kg. Hanging it not on the rail provided for it, but only on the latch, is something that no reasonably experienced engineer would even think of. I just don't know what the Canyon people were thinking and why Bosch approved something like that???
The Cascade Components Latch is a (expensive) workaround and my only hope is that Cascade Components has tested it long enough and under real-world conditions to sell it for this price. I expect a flawless product that solves the problem, even if the latch is not the (sole) cause of the problem.

 

[Mikerb]

Bosch is merely a supplier in this scenario so has no say in how any brand chooses to secure the battery. What is relevant however is that Bosch chose to design a complete system consisting the battery, rail, and clamp.............for a reason!

 

[Tieff]

Bosch is merely a supplier in this scenario so has no say in how any brand chooses to secure the battery. What is relevant however is that Bosch chose to design a complete system consisting the battery, rail, and clamp.............for a reason!

Don't agree, Bosch is obviously a supplier! And as you say ... for a reason... they choose a specific design. So, if a bike manufacturer doesn't stick to the requirements Bosch should have a say, because that is not according to the requirements. Just compare to what happens in other branches (for instance in Automotive industry)...

 

[Mikerb]

Don't agree, Bosch is obviously a supplier! And as you say ... for a reason... they choose a specific design. So, if a bike manufacturer doesn't stick to the requirements Bosch should have a say, because that is not according to the requirements. Just compare to what happens in other branches (for instance in Automotive industry)...

How? Refuse to sell anyone a 750 Bosch battery unless they also buy the rail? Not practical.

 

[Quetech]

Surely before Bosch redesigned the catch they must have been having issues even with the rail
If canyon could only get the top and bottom mount secure during assembly then the battery should be secure ?
I am assuming there is no or very little lateral movement of the battery in the down tube

 

[Lazy Clydesdale]

How? Refuse to sell anyone a 750 Bosch battery unless they also buy the rail? Not practical.

Quantity pricing, availability guarantees, and warranty parameters are all negotiation topics that canyon and bosch would have had, as industry professionals.

 

[Marco0809]

I have installed the Cascade Bosch Latch, the battery is well clamped and sits well.

Unfortunately, the bike continues to rattle on the descent.

I don't know what to do anymore.

My Rotwild with EP8 was quieter on the downhill.

Equip the battery compartment with damping?

 

[Tieff]

I have installed the Cascade Bosch Latch, the battery is well clamped and sits well.

Unfortunately, the bike continues to rattle on the descent.

I don't know what to do anymore.

My Rotwild with EP8 was quieter on the downhill.

Equip the battery compartment with damping?

Let's wait for @Mario Antony. I think he has a good solution. And if he has tested it enough he hopefully will reveal it here. And of course if the battery is fixed well and cannot move the Bosch motor is also known for its rattling noises on descents... This is (technically) not a problem at all, just a little unpleasant.

 

[Mario Antony]

Let's wait for @Mario Antony. I think he has a good solution. And if he has tested it enough he hopefully will reveal it here. And of course if the battery is fixed well and cannot move the Bosch motor is also known for its rattling noises on descents... This is (technically) not a problem at all, just a little unpleasant.

Sorry for all this time, sincerelly!
After the summer holidays I'll have news.
For now... nothing to report, other than bike hasn't had any problems.

I would insist on everyone doing the threadlock mod on the upper bracket.
That alone, I would say it will stop any disconection 99%.

Cheers!

PS: for now, it's time to enjoy other things

 

[Tieff]

Sorry for all this time, sincerelly!
After the summer holidays I'll have news.
For now... nothing to report, other than bike hasn't had any problems.

I would insist on everyone doing the threadlock mod on the upper bracket.
That alone, I would say it will stop any disconection 99%.

Cheers!

PS: for now, it's time to enjoy other things

View attachment 143731

Thank you for the update! Have some nice holidays!

 

[Mars2]

Sorry for all this time, sincerelly!
After the summer holidays I'll have news.
For now... nothing to report, other than bike hasn't had any problems.

I would insist on everyone doing the threadlock mod on the upper bracket.
That alone, I would say it will stop any disconection 99%.

Cheers!

PS: for now, it's time to enjoy other things

View attachment 143731

What is the thread lock mod? Some lactate on the 2 screws? Thank's

 

[Mario Antony]

What is the thread lock mod? Some lactate on the 2 screws? Thank's

Take a look here:

STRIVE :ON POWER CUTOUTS

When new, the Strive :ON don't present any problem on the battery connection. The bike normally works flawlessly and some owners will concluded that the power surge problem is just on some bikes. As rides accumulate, depending on the trails, and usage, the power cuts can start earlier or...

www.emtbforums.com

You need to disassemble the upper bracket from inside the frame.

 

[Mars2]

Thank's

Last saturday I had my first Cut.

13 month old Strive on
Size S
625 Wh battery

After a good jump it stop to work and I was not able to start it anymore even after trying to put back the battery. Then I put two Zip tie on the latch push more the battery upward and it started again.
I did since 3 session with the bike like that and no problem.
It's just a temporary fix but can save your day. I always have Zip tie in my bag.

 

[Tieff]

Installed the Cascade Components latch today. Still 0 km with it but at least it fits very well. You can shake the whole bike hard at the latch without the battery moving within the mount. That looks really good, bomb-proof. And you can even adjust it if it should come loose. The aluminum latch also seems 1000x more stable than the Bosch plastic latch... In any case, I'm looking forward to a tough ride this weekend. Testing it to the max.

 

[Mario Antony]

Thank's

Last saturday I had my first Cut.

13 month old Strive on
Size S
625 Wh battery

After a good jump it stop to work and I was not able to start it anymore even after trying to put back the battery. Then I put two Zip tie on the latch push more the battery upward and it started again.
I did since 3 session with the bike like that and no problem.
It's just a temporary fix but can save your day. I always have Zip tie in my bag.

View attachment 143735

For a backup plan to get you "home" is ok.
But you really need to check the upper bracket.
I would say you'll check that the bolts are lose.

 

[Mario Antony]

Installed the Cascade Components latch today. Still 0 km with it but at least it fits very well. You can shake the whole bike hard at the latch without the battery moving within the mount. That looks really good, bomb-proof. And you can even adjust it if it should come loose. The aluminum latch also seems 1000x more stable than the Bosch plastic latch... In any case, I'm looking forward to a tough ride this weekend. Testing it to the max.
View attachment 143744 View attachment 143746 View attachment 143747 View attachment 143748 View attachment 143745

Looks really nice!

 

[Tieff]

At the weekend I had time to test the Cascade Components aluminum latch. As shown previously, I installed it and adjusted it (with the large Allen screws) so that it is absolutely secure and you can shake the entire bike with a lot of force using your hand on the latch. The battery does not move a millimeter in the down tube. With this installation (750Wh battery, without additional zip ties or other measures) I did my first test ride at the weekend and also took on some tough root trails and drops. After about 60km I got home and did the first inspection: the battery is secure and, as before, does not move in the frame, regardless how hard you shake it. There were no noises during the ride either (at least not from the battery). The result so far: absolutely convincing! Of course, this was only a first test, I will go on testing like this and also remove the battery more often to charge it. I will continue to report in this forum at irregular intervals.

 

[gr8fasushi]

At the weekend I had time to test the Cascade Components aluminum latch. As shown previously, I installed it and adjusted it (with the large Allen screws) so that it is absolutely secure and you can shake the entire bike with a lot of force using your hand on the latch. The battery does not move a millimeter in the down tube. With this installation (750Wh battery, without additional zip ties or other measures) I did my first test ride at the weekend and also took on some tough root trails and drops. After about 60km I got home and did the first inspection: the battery is secure and, as before, does not move in the frame, regardless how hard you shake it. There were no noises during the ride either (at least not from the battery). The result so far: absolutely convincing! Of course, this was only a first test, I will go on testing like this and also remove the battery more often to charge it. I will continue to report in this forum at irregular int

can you elaborate on how those adjuster screws work? I also received and installed the cascade components latch. But I just tightened those 2 big screws. Didn't seem like they were adjustable or anything.

 

[Tieff]

can you elaborate on how those adjuster screws work? I also received and installed the cascade components latch. But I just tightened those 2 big screws. Didn't seem like they were adjustable or anything.

Unfortunately, Cascade Components does not provide any explanation or instructions on how to correctly attach the latch. I will try to explain how the adjustment mechanism for increasing the clamping force (symbol F in the pic below) works. It's not that easy, so I quickly made a small sketch that only shows the components schematically, but I think it's clear when you have the latch in front of you. So first attach the latch to the battery with the four small screws. There are no adjustment options here, just tighten them (be careful, as the engineer says: after tight comes loose, so don't tighten with brute force, that won't help). Then insert the battery with the latch and try the latch first, i.e. close it. If the battery can still be moved, or you think it's not enough, you have to increase the clamping force: As in the picture below: slightly loosen the two screws and move the latch in the direction of the arrow "+" symbol (less is more at first), which is engraved on the latch. Then tighten the screws and close the latch again. Test whether the battery is now tight enough (even with a lot of force, you can't move mine when the latch is closed). If not, repeat the process until the battery is tight enough. What you do with this is shown in the picture below: by moving the latch in the "+" direction, the distance to the latch counterpart is shortened (a little) and the clamping force F (picture below) increases. This presses the battery more firmly against the metal holder, with the effect that it can no longer move. If the clamping force should decrease later for some reason, you can readjust it using the allen screws. (Sorry for the long text, but I hope it helps to understand the mechanism).

 

[gr8fasushi]

Unfortunately, Cascade Components does not provide any explanation or instructions on how to correctly attach the latch. I will try to explain how the adjustment mechanism for increasing the clamping force (symbol F in the pic below) works. It's not that easy, so I quickly made a small sketch that only shows the components schematically, but I think it's clear when you have the latch in front of you. So first attach the latch to the battery with the four small screws. There are no adjustment options here, just tighten them (be careful, as the engineer says: after tight comes loose, so don't tighten with brute force, that won't help). Then insert the battery with the latch and try the latch first, i.e. close it. If the battery can still be moved, or you think it's not enough, you have to increase the clamping force: As in the picture below: slightly loosen the two screws and move the latch in the direction of the arrow "+" symbol (less is more at first), which is engraved on the latch. Then tighten the screws and close the latch again. Test whether the battery is now tight enough (even with a lot of force, you can't move mine when the latch is closed). If not, repeat the process until the battery is tight enough. What you do with this is shown in the picture below: by moving the latch in the "+" direction, the distance to the latch counterpart is shortened (a little) and the clamping force F (picture below) increases. This presses the battery more firmly against the metal holder, with the effect that it can no longer move. If the clamping force should decrease later for some reason, you can readjust it using the allen screws. (Sorry for the long text, but I hope it helps to understand the mechanism).
View attachment 143880

this is perfect. I appreciate you taking the time to draw this out, I'm sure it will help out a lot of folks trying to figure this out. Yes this makes sense now. I'm also assuming we don't want it too tightly latched since that may cause issues with the connector.

 

[gr8fasushi]

this is perfect. I appreciate you taking the time to draw this out, I'm sure it will help out a lot of folks trying to figure this out. Yes this makes sense now. I'm also assuming we don't want it too tightly latched since that may cause issues with the connector.

on second thought, this only increases how tightly it pulls the battery towards the Metal Holder, and has nothing to do with increase force between the metal holder and the connecter in the down tube. So making it too tight would only make the metal holder start to bend towards the battery.

 

[Tieff]

on second thought, this only increases how tightly it pulls the battery towards the Metal Holder, and has nothing to do with increase force between the metal holder and the connecter in the down tube. So making it too tight would only make the metal holder start to bend towards the battery.

Yes, exactly! But I guess if you would make it too tight (in order that you would bend the metal holder) you would not be able to close the latch lever anymore. So, as always, you need a bit of tact...

 

[Tieff]

Yes, exactly! But I guess if you would make it too tight (in order that you would bend the metal holder) you would not be able to close the latch lever anymore. So, as always, you need a bit of tact...

In addition, it would not be good if the latch exerted a large force on the battery connector in the down tube. I think Cascade Components has done a really good job here. The engineering explanation is that if you increase the clamping force F, you also increase the friction force between the metal bracket and the battery (F friction = F *μ) where μ is the coefficient of friction. This solution is much more elegant than simply exerting more pressure on the battery connector.

 

[Tieff]

Next update in the Cascade Components Latch test: Today again 60km on natural trails with some tough downhills and rumble tracks. No power cut outs, no noise from the battery, everything was perfect... Then, just before I got home, another test of a special kind. One of these militant walkers with a dog jumped up to me and hooked his arm into my left arm . You all know what happens then... a serious crash with shoulder and helmet grind on the right side... shoulder pain, and thumb on the left hand badly sprained... No apology, instead fierce accusations from the "arm-hooker"... You are not allowed to ride here... Great!! Got up, rode on (of course left a few swear words behind) and... Everything was perfect. Latch is in place and my trust in Cascade Components has grown enormously (However, trust in mutual consideration and human behaviour has suffered a serious blow). Now the Latch is good but I need some time until my thumb is back to a point where I can hold the handlebars securely... ahhhhrghhh militant walkers... . Next time I'll be so fast that his arm will dislocate...

 

[Mario Antony]

Next update in the Cascade Components Latch test: Today again 60km on natural trails with some tough downhills and rumble tracks. No power cut outs, no noise from the battery, everything was perfect... Then, just before I got home, another test of a special kind. One of these militant walkers with a dog jumped up to me and hooked his arm into my left arm . You all know what happens then... a serious crash with shoulder and helmet grind on the right side... shoulder pain, and thumb on the left hand badly sprained... No apology, instead fierce accusations from the "arm-hooker"... You are not allowed to ride here... Great!! Got up, rode on (of course left a few swear words behind) and... Everything was perfect. Latch is in place and my trust in Cascade Components has grown enormously (However, trust in mutual consideration and human behaviour has suffered a serious blow). Now the Latch is good but I need some time until my thumb is back to a point where I can hold the handlebars securely... ahhhhrghhh militant walkers... . Next time I'll be so fast that his arm will dislocate...

Did he act on propose?
Very nice to know that the Battery latch is doing it's job!

Get well soon

 

[InRustWeTrust]

Next update in the Cascade Components Latch test: Today again 60km on natural trails with some tough downhills and rumble tracks. No power cut outs, no noise from the battery, everything was perfect... Then, just before I got home, another test of a special kind. One of these militant walkers with a dog jumped up to me and hooked his arm into my left arm . You all know what happens then... a serious crash with shoulder and helmet grind on the right side... shoulder pain, and thumb on the left hand badly sprained... No apology, instead fierce accusations from the "arm-hooker"... You are not allowed to ride here... Great!! Got up, rode on (of course left a few swear words behind) and... Everything was perfect. Latch is in place and my trust in Cascade Components has grown enormously (However, trust in mutual consideration and human behaviour has suffered a serious blow). Now the Latch is good but I need some time until my thumb is back to a point where I can hold the handlebars securely... ahhhhrghhh militant walkers... . Next time I'll be so fast that his arm will dislocate...

Do you have the big battery ? And in what mode do you get 60 km ?

 

[Tieff]

Did he act on propose?
Very nice to know that the Battery latch is doing it's job!

Get well soon

Yes, he did! Don't know why. I wasn't going too fast for the width of the path and it wouldn't have been a problem, but there seems to be a strong rivalry between hikers and bikers in the forest. The only difference between us is the first letter... .
And yes, the more important news is that the Battery latch is doing it's job perfectly (up to now).

Thank you for your good wishes. This morning I got a few more bruises, but nothing serious...

 

[Tieff]

Do you have the big battery ? And in what mode do you get 60 km ?

Yes I have the 750 Wh battery. The 60 km are certainly nothing special. I usually ride a mix of eco, auto, eMTB and turbo, with most of the time in auto and eMTB mode. Average speed > 23 km/h, average cadence around 90. After 60 km I still have two full green(!) bars available, which is about 40%.