Strive:ON problems

[Tieff]

Battery disconnection update

After having installed the new latch, and all errors erased from the bike and the upper support checked by the LBS, I thought all problems were solved...
but no!

Battery has already disconecting itself, so before contacting Canyon (again...), I figured I would check the issue better myself.

#1 Canyon is not the first to suffer this problem. If you check Trek Forum, you'll find that the Rail model suffer of similar problem - battery disconnecting itself.
There are several issues, and althought people have alignement procedures written down, it seems several bikes continue with the problem.

#2 - Either Trek Rail, or Canyon Strive :ON don't use Bosch Rail system, and The battery is secured by a lower and upper support, having the plug incorporated. This seems to be the problem
Securing the battery, should be independent from connecting the battery.

#3 - Mondraker, have moved away from removal battery, much probable due to these issues.

After reading this post again, I thought about immobilizing the battery sideways (it had always a side movement, at least mine...).
Results: Nothing happened! Problem is solved, as well as the constant rattling I would ear on rought trails!
As soon as the side supports are removed, the problem comes back.

So, before start jumping of joy, I will continue experimenting this solution, until I'm sure it has been solved.

I will report back soon after I'm satisfied, but basically it's a very simple solution, not requiring zipties, not bolts, what so ever.
It permits remove the battery, and install, and it takes around 30sec, to place the solution to stop side to.side movement...

Since I didn't had this problem from new, and only appeared after several rides (+1000km), it seems I need to take a close look at the connector.

Anyone has the dimensions /tolerances on this connector?

Can you please tell us how you secured the battery from moving sideways? If several people try this and it works, there is even more certainty that the solution will help.

 

[Mario Antony]

Can you please tell us how you secured the battery from moving sideways? If several people try this and it works, there is even more certainty that the solution will help.

@Tieff

I prefer to test it, and check it really solved the issue, before disclosing the solution, and prefer to explain why:
I had over 1000km problem free, meaning without any power cutouts.
Then, the bike became having further rattle until cutouts appear (and when it happen, I couldn't maintain the battery connected and was very far from anything, and alone. Not good at all....).
I entered a warranty clame, and Canyon forward a latch, and a friend's shop, who is a Bosch repair center, cleared all errors.
Because I didn't want any cutouts again, I tried the Ziptie mod, as well as a variation of Tobias mod.
Things were ok, until one day.... power cutouts again, but intermitent.
My friend (bosch dealer), asked me to perform a simple solution, otherwise it would need further troobleshooting - replace the Mini Controller battery CR1620.
Problem solved!

[[YES, There are people that say this is not a solution, because the bike can work without the minicontroller] - never tried to ride without the minicontroller, and thing is... after replacing the CR1620, things started working ok!]].

After some rides, without any issue, cutouts again.
Bike wouldn't turn on.
[[Side note: the ridiculous thing was figuring this, after a car drive of over 200km, to ride some different trails!!!! A day lost, for nothing.... almost! At least I had a nice lunch with nice wine and everything!]]

Warranty clame again, and this time, Canyon want me to drop the bike over a Bikeshop they designated.
The new latch design would be installed, and I asked to check the upper connecter while the bike was there.

Bike arrived from the warranty clame, and on the first rides was ok, but on one particular crash (climbing a steep and torturous trail), the bike disconnected and wouldn't turn on! My only thought was really: "F......... this!!!!!!"

I place the bike on a wheelie position, and raised the rear wheel, smashing it to the ground.
Problem solved... but the mystery was still unsolved!

So.... it lead to a full troubleshooting before any ride!
[[I work with airplanes, so.... an ebikewain't so complex, and it wouldn't beat me! No f..... way!]]

What I found:

Upper Connector completly lose on the support that attatchs to the frame (which is stainless steel by the way).
A wire that was a bit damage (bent and dented). Took care of this, and move on!
The connectors (proctruded steel parts), full of deposits. ---> cleaned properly.
Check that the protective cap, that goes in this upper bracket don't fit snugged, so I solved it. No more moving things on this side, so, no more noise (I hope!)

Everything was then assembled, using threadlocker, and that is it!
This was done!

After assembly the battery, I could notice some side to side movement, so I figured out a Prototype.
Thing has been steeler, up to this point! It has also quieten the bike, and the rattling noise is reduced by a long shot, and mainly from the motor (at least it seems like it).
So.......

I'll be testing until I'm convinced that the issue is gone with this simple solution!
As soon as the last interaction is ready (or at least as endured my usage), I'll 3D print the final model, with all the fine tunes that I think it needs, and post here.

If this, doesn't cut the mostard, I'm working on an ultimate solution, but unfortunately it won't have the practicabilty of the original - meaning removing battery with a latch!

Now.... let's put some HARD kilometers on the Strive and check everything!
Fingers crossed!


[[Edit/Add: the battery doesn't connect to the plug firmly, I'd say it's a lose connection, that is maintain using the latch.
I was hoping that the interface Plug/Battery had some kind of interferance, as we (at least in Europe!), have on any electric plug at home. You need to force the plug to connect something...
This interface it's not the case with Bosch]]

 

[Tieff]

@Tieff

I prefer to test it, and check it really solved the issue, before disclosing the solution, and prefer to explain why:
I had over 1000km problem free, meaning without any power cutouts.
Then, the bike became having further rattle until cutouts appear (and when it happen, I couldn't maintain the battery connected and was very far from anything, and alone. Not good at all....).
I entered a warranty clame, and Canyon forward a latch, and a friend's shop, who is a Bosch repair center, cleared all errors.
Because I didn't want any cutouts again, I tried the Ziptie mod, as well as a variation of Tobias mod.
Things were ok, until one day.... power cutouts again, but intermitent.
My friend (bosch dealer), asked me to perform a simple solution, otherwise it would need further troobleshooting - replace the Mini Controller battery CR1620.
Problem solved!

[[YES, There are people that say this is not a solution, because the bike can work without the minicontroller] - never tried to ride without the minicontroller, and thing is... after replacing the CR1620, things started working ok!]].

After some rides, without any issue, cutouts again.
Bike wouldn't turn on.
[[Side note: the ridiculous thing was figuring this, after a car drive of over 200km, to ride some different trails!!!! A day lost, for nothing.... almost! At least I had a nice lunch with nice wine and everything!]]

Warranty clame again, and this time, Canyon want me to drop the bike over a Bikeshop they designated.
The new latch design would be installed, and I asked to check the upper connecter while the bike was there.

Bike arrived from the warranty clame, and on the first rides was ok, but on one particular crash (climbing a steep and torturous trail), the bike disconnected and wouldn't turn on! My only thought was really: "F......... this!!!!!!"

I place the bike on a wheelie position, and raised the rear wheel, smashing it to the ground.
Problem solved... but the mystery was still unsolved!

So.... it lead to a full troubleshooting before any ride!
[[I work with airplanes, so.... an ebikewain't so complex, and it wouldn't beat me! No f..... way!]]

What I found:

Upper Connector completly lose on the support that attatchs to the frame (which is stainless steel by the way).
A wire that was a bit damage (bent and dented). Took care of this, and move on!
The connectors (proctruded steel parts), full of deposits. ---> cleaned properly.
Check that the protective cap, that goes in this upper bracket don't fit snugged, so I solved it. No more moving things on this side, so, no more noise (I hope!)

Everything was then assembled, using threadlocker, and that is it!
This was done!

After assembly the battery, I could notice some side to side movement, so I figured out a Prototype.
Thing has been steeler, up to this point! It has also quieten the bike, and the rattling noise is reduced by a long shot, and mainly from the motor (at least it seems like it).
So.......

I'll be testing until I'm convinced that the issue is gone with this simple solution!
As soon as the last interaction is ready (or at least as endured my usage), I'll 3D print the final model, with all the fine tunes that I think it needs, and post here.

If this, doesn't cut the mostard, I'm working on an ultimate solution, but unfortunately it won't have the practicabilty of the original - meaning removing battery with a latch!

Now.... let's put some HARD kilometers on the Strive and check everything!
Fingers crossed!


[[Edit/Add: the battery doesn't connect to the plug firmly, I'd say it's a lose connection, that is maintain using the latch.
I was hoping that the interface Plug/Battery had some kind of interferance, as we (at least in Europe!), have on any electric plug at home. You need to force the plug to connect something...
This interface it's not the case with Bosch]]

OK thanks. That was a very long and detailed explanation and I am grateful for it. After all that, I can understand that you don't want to describe the solution yet because there is of course the risk that it won't really solve the problem permanently. I also thought of a solution to restrict the lateral movement of the battery (even though my battery doesn't move sideways at all): simply insert a bicycle hose with a valve to the right and left of the battery or attach it to the battery and after inserting the battery Inflate the hose with the pump. This is good and easy.
But, as many have already said here, I think the problem is simply that the battery is only held by the connector at the top and the latch at the bottom. If they (Canyon) would have used the original Bosch Rail, firstly the lateral movement would be eliminated and secondly the weight of the battery would be absorbed via the rail. If you look at the whole thing from an engineering perspective, then what is there now is a terrible design error and all attempts to change that end in more or less good "tinkering".
The only solution I see: put in the Bosch rail and clamp (screw) the battery to the rail. But unfortunately this also requires more stable screws for the rail, which then have to be attached to the carbon. Not really ideal if you have to do something like that retroactively...

 

[Lazy Clydesdale]

I am going to have to try this pre-emptively with some dense foam tucked along the battery sides. Thanks for the awareness

 

[Tieff]

I am going to have to try this pre-emptively with some dense foam tucked along the battery sides. Thanks for the awareness

I tried something like that too. Please be careful. If the foam is stuck tightly (so that the battery can no longer move), then it will be very, very difficult to get the foam or the battery or both out again!

 

[Mario Antony]

I would prefer to place some Foam Tape (eg: )


It's not the solution I'm testing BTW, but it's a solution and easy to install!

PS: after all the bolts and bracket correctly tight, I can say that the solution has made the bike more silent, and after 100km, and over 4500m, no cutouts!! It looks promissing

 

[Bomble]

I had a similar problem with a Trek Rail, I used 3m adhesive foam pads and just kept adding them till the battery stopped rattling.

 

[Mario Antony]

Good news:
No powercuts after this part of the trail...
Tests will continue!
Is a pass/break (me or the bike) result!

 

[Tieff]

Good news:
No powercuts after this part of the trail...
Tests will continue!
Is a pass/break (me or the bike) result!

View attachment 139927

So let's hope that both of you will pass the tests!

 

[Tubby G]

 

[hubertsk]

Buy direct from Miranda, I have both 155 and 152,5 and like them

Hey @Niklas which model and what Q-factor did you order from Miranda?
How do they fit the bike?

 

[Niklas]

Hey @Niklas which model and what Q-factor did you order from Miranda?
How do they fit the bike?

 

[Tubby G]

Just a heads up guys. My Strive:On is now ready to collect from the Canyon Service Partner Bike Shop and is fully working again. However, the issue wasn’t with the battery latch as expected. There’s another issue which Canyon are apparently aware of and are looking at ways to remedy. The top battery connection inside the downtube is susceptible to condensation & moisture, and if it collects in the battery terminal it has nowhere to drain out, therefore corroding the terminals and causing issues.

To prevent this from happening it is recommended to apply dielectric grease to the battery terminals and keep checking for the smallest sign of any corrosion every few weeks.

 

[el.guillyt]

@el.guillyt

After this, had you had any problems? Thanks

sorry for the late reply, ever since then, zero problems so far

 

[Tieff]

Yeaaaahhhhhhh, finally it is available at cascade components...

 

[Tieff]

I just bought one. 116 USD + 48.41 USD shipping to Switzerland is a bit tough. Hope it fully solves the problem and we all can forget about the latch issue.

 

[Quetech]

Hi Folks
looking at buying a strive on 750 watt, currently had a Trek rail for the last 3 years with zero problems, hopefully I won’t regret it.
Could the older Bosch (non smart) be more reliable than the new system ?
Having read about the multitude of battery connection issues I am wondering if anybody has replaced the catch mounting with a bolt in system, I can’t see me having to remove the battery that often and a couple of screws would not be an issue.
A ridgid mount would solve a few issues.


Mike

 

[travelinscout]

I also had the dreaded battery latch disconnect issue. and I solved it with a small rebuild kit from a buddy on FB.
Works like a charm, super easy and no more issues!

 

[Tieff]

Hi Folks
looking at buying a strive on 750 watt, currently had a Trek rail for the last 3 years with zero problems, hopefully I won’t regret it.
Could the older Bosch (non smart) be more reliable than the new system ?
Having read about the multitude of battery connection issues I am wondering if anybody has replaced the catch mounting with a bolt in system, I can’t see me having to remove the battery that often and a couple of screws would not be an issue.
A ridgid mount would solve a few issues.


Mike

Hi Mike,
First of all: the Strive:On is not available with the older (non-smart) Bosch system. Even if it were, it wouldn't change anything, because Canyon actually only uses the battery rail to guide the cables under the battery. The battery itself is not attached to the "rail" at all, but only to the upper contact pod and the lower latch. I would have also wanted to replace the latch with a bolt/screw connection, but that's not so easy, then you have to design a completely new mount and then you will certainly lose any warranty (whether from Canyon or Bosch, it doesn't matter).
I think (I haven't tried it yet) that Cascade Components' solution looks pretty good to finally get the problem under control (you probably lose the warranty with it too, but Cascade Components have been testing this solution for about half a year, and I've been waiting for that). I guess they wouldn't come up with this solution if the issues would still exist. Otherwise, if @Mario Antony finally tells us his solution (he also tests it extensively), I think his solution will certainly be very promising too.
The Strive:On is definitely the best e-bike I've ridden so far. Despite the problem, it's worth every cent... I think that's the general opinion here in the "problem" forum. In any case, it was voted the best e-bike under 7000 euros in the latest E-MTB magazine (The best e-mountainbike of 2024 under € 7,000 – 5 eMTBs in comparison).

 

[Marco0809]

I have now also ordered the Bosch Power Latch from Cascade Link and hope that this part will finally calm my bike down on the downhill.
Bike Canyon Strive ON CFR LTD.
Where or how exactly is the battery causing the noise?
Does anyone here know more and can explain it?
Thanks Marco

 

[travelinscout]

I got two of these and they work perfectly! 5 minute install too.

 

[Tieff]

I got two of these and they work perfectly! 5 minute install too.

View attachment 143153

You mean you are using the "Tobias rebuild kit" which is different from the Cascade Components latch replacement?

 

[travelinscout]

You mean you are using the "Tobias rebuild kit" which is different from the Cascade Components latch replacement?

Yes! I paid 20 including shipping to the US. Installed in 5 minutes and works perfectly.

 

[Tieff]

I have now also ordered the Bosch Power Latch from Cascade Link and hope that this part will finally calm my bike down on the downhill.
Bike Canyon Strive ON CFR LTD.
Where or how exactly is the battery causing the noise?
Does anyone here know more and can explain it?
Thanks Marco

There are different positions where the battery can cause the noise. Please have a look at the STRIVE:ON POWER CUTOUTS forum from @Mario Antony and also some posts from him in this forum. He describes very well what can go wrong at the latch and the upper bracket. You'll have to check the screws and secure them with Locktite. Unfortunately my lower arms are a bit too thick, I can't reach the upper bracket with my hand without needing a surgeon to release my arm again... But if the battery is not pushed tightly enough to the upper bracket by the latch mechanism (this is when the latch is worn out or damaged over time) it has some play (mainly in the upper bracket). This can become more worse over time and finally it's so much that you can hear the battery moving. This however is already a later stage and damage of the battery contact pins is very likely. But also the upper bracket can move together with the battery if the screws are not tightened and secured correctly. So better check everything which is related to the battery latch and upper bracket. If you close the latch and you can still move the battery (even very slightly) then you'll have an issue. The point is, that the battery is not held by the Bosch rail (which is the case in other bikes) but just by the latch and the bracket... which is (I mentioned it already before) a severe design flaw in my eyes and the one who did this design should get a big slap on his a** at least!

 

[Marco0809]

Here is the thing

 

[Tieff]

Here is the thing

View attachment 143270 View attachment 143271 View attachment 143272

Heeeee @Marco0809, you already have it... Mine is still on the way... Jealousy, jealousy

 

[Lazy Clydesdale]

Hi Folks
looking at buying a strive on 750 watt, currently had a Trek rail for the last 3 years with zero problems, hopefully I won’t regret it.
Could the older Bosch (non smart) be more reliable than the new system ?
Having read about the multitude of battery connection issues I am wondering if anybody has replaced the catch mounting with a bolt in system, I can’t see me having to remove the battery that often and a couple of screws would not be an issue.
A ridgid mount would solve a few issues.


Mike

I wouldnt recommend this bike to anyone. These problems are an inexcusable waste of new owners' resources.

An incredibly lame flaw that doesnt get enough attention is that the maximum chainring size is insufficient except for the weakest/slowest riders, and there is nothing we can do about it.

 

[Quetech]

What is the maximum size of chainring ?

 

[Tieff]

What is the maximum size of chainring ?

The stock chainring size is 36t, which works pretty well for me without me calling myself a weak/slow rider, but as we all know, that's relative.

 

[Tieff]

I finally got it. It got stuck at customs for a bit... well, Swiss customs... Of course with the four screws for the battery (in case anyone is worried about that). Looks good and the quality is OK, as expected. Dilbert also took a look at it and thinks it's great. I'll keep you updated on how it holds up in tough use.