Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

[jimslade]

Ok so spent time at my LBS today. They sold out of the one I want, did a reorder and sold out, and tried to do a second reorder but Spesh was out. Guy there suggested I look at other shops and there’s one 60 miles away so I’ll likely try to go Sat am. At current pace he guessed he’d be fully sold out of FFs and SLs in another month or so.

 

[jimslade]

Can always call or email man..... seems a couple stores here in Germany have SLs in stock. I’ve only seen one other out in the wild so far.

Sorry I should have been more clear. The Spesh site has inventory lookup for all dealers in a 200mile radius. So you pick the exact bike you want and ‘find local’ tells you which shop has it and how many. I’ll call to verify and hold though before driving over

 

[boBE]

When I went to buy my SL in March the LBS (a chain of 5 shops) said they could not get one but Spesh keeps some for direct orders. I tried ordering direct, their sorry website would go all the way to payment but never let me do the final transaction. A few days later LBS called and said they could get one in about a week (they did and I bought it).
Keep trying!

 

[singletrackminded]

Crank resistance: I own both a 2020 Levo Sl and Turbo Levo. I read there the SL has little or no pedaling resistance through the cranks. To test this, I spin the cranks backwards (motor off, stationary). There is noticeable resistance on my SL cranks where the cranks will only spin maybe 1/2/-3/4 of a turn. Applying the same test to my Turbo levo the cranks will rotate at least several revolutions , while offering little or no resistance. Obviously the Levo motor is belt drive, while the SL uses gears.

Is this level of crank resistance typical for the Levo Sl? Or do I perhaps have a specific issue with my particular bike?
Input appreciated!

 

[SquireRides]

Crank resistance: I own both a 2020 Levo Sl and Turbo Levo. I read there the SL has little or no pedaling resistance through the cranks. To test this, I spin the cranks backwards (motor off, stationary). There is noticeable resistance on my SL cranks where the cranks will only spin maybe 1/2/-3/4 of a turn. Applying the same test to my Turbo levo the cranks will rotate at least several revolutions , while offering little or no resistance. Obviously the Levo motor is belt drive, while the SL uses gears.

Is this level of crank resistance typical for the Levo Sl? Or do I perhaps have a specific issue with my particular bike?
Input appreciated!

When you back pedal? Something odd happens on the Levo SL, usually it's disengaged. Occasionally, like when very new or yesterday (for some reason) it will engage and actually backpedal the chainring for maybe a turn or two.

So backpedaling probably isn't a great test of how disengaged the SL is when forward pedaling. Just turn the motor to zero support and forward pedal.

 

[MrBrownstone]

Crank resistance: I own both a 2020 Levo Sl and Turbo Levo. I read there the SL has little or no pedaling resistance through the cranks. To test this, I spin the cranks backwards (motor off, stationary). There is noticeable resistance on my SL cranks where the cranks will only spin maybe 1/2/-3/4 of a turn. Applying the same test to my Turbo levo the cranks will rotate at least several revolutions , while offering little or no resistance. Obviously the Levo motor is belt drive, while the SL uses gears.

Is this level of crank resistance typical for the Levo Sl? Or do I perhaps have a specific issue with my particular bike?
Input appreciated!

Dude, do not spin the cranks backwards! If you do it enough that lovely gear drive will magically turn into belt drive forcing you to blow thru motors every 300 miles!!!?

 

[ThierryGTLTS]

When you back pedal? Something odd happens on the Levo SL, usually it's disengaged. Occasionally, like when very new or yesterday (for some reason) it will engage and actually backpedal the chainring for maybe a turn or two.

So backpedaling probably isn't a great test of how disengaged the SL is when forward pedaling. Just turn the motor to zero support and forward pedal.

+1. Same for the Creo, backpedaling (always motor off and slowly) is not representative of the quality of the forward freewheel which seems to be very good.

Thierry

 

[Vin829]

Can anyone please tell me which exact cassette tool I need for the SL cranks?
this ‘cassette tool 20nm left hand thread’ nut came out yesterday. View attachment 33375

I believe just an 8mm hex key

 

[Vin829]

I wish. No it’s the star looking nut on the outside of the hex key. Where it says cassette tool.
It takes a cassette tool which doesn’t really make sense to me. They don’t sell it on the praxis site.
It has 12 lans and 12 groves. There are just different types on cassette tools and I don’t want to waste tome on the wrong shit.

I’ll just take it downtown tomorrow. My spec dealer is closed this weekend.

Then it’s just the generic one that removed both the SRAM and Shimano cassette. Pretty common

 

[Mcharza]

I wish. No it’s the star looking nut on the outside of the hex key. Where it says cassette tool.
It takes a cassette tool which doesn’t really make sense to me. They don’t sell it on the praxis site.
It has 12 lans and 12 groves. There are just different types on cassette tools and I don’t want to waste tome on the wrong shit.

I’ll just take it downtown tomorrow. My spec dealer is closed this weekend.

You need these tools, see examples below
Freewheel remover Topeak Tool Freewheel Remover | Tools - Sprocket Shop
Sprocket Remover Tool Lifu / IceToolz Sprocket Remover Tool With Chain | Tools - Sprocket Shop

 

[boBE]

I wish. No it’s the star looking nut on the outside of the hex key. Where it says cassette tool.
It takes a cassette tool which doesn’t really make sense to me. They don’t sell it on the praxis site.
It has 12 lans and 12 groves. There are just different types on cassette tools and I don’t want to waste tome on the wrong shit.

I’ll just take it downtown tomorrow. My spec dealer is closed this weekend.

Yep, regular common Shimano (HG) cassette tool. Praxis told me not to remove the ring so I didn't, the crank came off using only the 8mm bolt. Not sure why your ring came out.

 

[DKS-Works]

Looks like it does. Is it necessary? Also would like to see the extender battery in there and can it be loaded and removed without hitting the shock?

View attachment 26487

Hi, I cannot get a clear read if the dpx2 will work with rangeextender can anyone clarify? I’m thinking of this upgrade on my Levo SL size Medium.
Thanks

 

[ImSundee]

hey guys, I’m about to purchase a Levo SL. I’m a former competitive mountain biker from 20+ years ago and coming back to enjoy the sport In a more leisurely fashion.
so much has changed in those years it would be great to get a little advice before I part with so much hard earned cash.
My LBS has a red SL Comp in large I test rode a couple of days ago, I really liked the ride and they offered a bit of discount and a few extras thrown in like pedals and a new helmet.

what I’d like to know is do you think it’s really worth the extra £1000 to buy the SL Comp Carbon, from what I can tell the components seem to be more or less the same so am I correct in thinking it would effectively be just a slightly lighter frame?

Also I’m 5’10”, long legs slim build would it be worth me test riding a medium SL? I liked the large but got impression the shop assistant was pushing the sale of the large red SL.

Parts are the same, the difference is about 1KG in weight. I went for the Carbon as its the same frame as the Sworks, and gives you a solid starting point.

I'm 5'8" and on the limit of the medium - I also like a smaller bike, so the large is perfect for you.

That £1000 in parts, is actually saving you about £600 on the bike if you need other stuff that is? I'd push for discount directly on the bike. And then accessories should come with 10% off really when buying a new bike. But in the current situation bikes are hard to come by so the shops have the upper hand atm.

 

[MrBrownstone]

Go for the aluminum and spend the money you saved on light carbon wheel set. Or don’t and just ride the bike as is which is what I would do.

Having a plastic frame vs aluminum for a bike with a motor won’t make much of a difference honestly. My frame is plastic and I’d go aluminum in a heartbeat to save some dough, especially if the part spec is to my liking, in fact the 2021 model emtb I’m buying when it comes out in September will have an alu frame and FULL Shimano Deore 12 speed, brakes included and a Shimano motor/battery. The perfect reasonably priced smart spec no bullshit fast capable alu bike.?

 

[MrBrownstone]

Also if you like the SL, you may like the regular Levo even better. Having been a Longtime racer myself, I like to go fast everywhere and the SL only gets you halfway or so there.

 

[boBE]

hey guys, I’m about to purchase a Levo SL. I’m a former competitive mountain biker from 20+ years ago and coming back to enjoy the sport In a more leisurely fashion.
so much has changed in those years it would be great to get a little advice before I part with so much hard earned cash.
My LBS has a red SL Comp in large I test rode a couple of days ago, I really liked the ride and they offered a bit of discount and a few extras thrown in like pedals and a new helmet.

what I’d like to know is do you think it’s really worth the extra £1000 to buy the SL Comp Carbon, from what I can tell the components seem to be more or less the same so am I correct in thinking it would effectively be just a slightly lighter frame?

Also I’m 5’10”, long legs slim build would it be worth me test riding a medium SL? I liked the large but got impression the shop assistant was pushing the sale of the large red SL.

I don't see the point of carbon unless we are competing. 1 Kg for $1000 seems like a pretty poor tradeoff. I am 5'9" and ride a medium, you may be right at the M/L point.

 

[Madog]

Can anyone please tell me which exact cassette tool I need for the SL cranks?
this ‘cassette tool 20nm left hand thread’ nut came out yesterday. View attachment 33375

First post here. I just installed new carbon cranks today. Do not remove the outer ring requiring a cassette tool. Just use a 8mm Hex to remove the crank. It's self extracting. If you remove the outer ring with the cassette tool, it won't self extract. BTW, these are installed at 50nm torque so you need big wrench.

 

[TomH79]

Can anyone please tell me which exact cassette tool I need for the SL cranks?
this ‘cassette tool 20nm left hand thread’ nut came out yesterday. View attachment 33375

Removing cranks on SL: only 8mm. Only.

 

[TomH79]

Also if you like the SL, you may like the regular Levo even better. Having been a Longtime racer myself, I like to go fast everywhere and the SL only gets you halfway or so there.

On the downhill SL is more capable, nimble, faster, flickable.

 

[TomH79]

If the extracting bolt is on, you still need only 8mm to put crank back on.

 

[p3eps]

I don't see the point of carbon unless we are competing. 1 Kg for $1000 seems like a pretty poor tradeoff. I am 5'9" and ride a medium, you may be right at the M/L point.

How else can you loose 1kg for $1000?

I spent £300 on a cassette to lose ~100g.
£230 on a saddle to lose ~100g
£240 on a stem to lose ~75g
£180 on bars to lose ~135g

For me, $1000 on a 1kg lighter frame is a cheap and easy way of losing weight right from the start. A good carbon wheel set might save you ~500-800g, but will cost over $1000.

Yes, the SL has a motor and the weight doesn’t matter ‘as much’, but it still matters.

 

[p3eps]

I got the S-Works because the sticker has less letters and therefore is lighter than SPECIALIZED...... duh, thats why S works cost so much

Saved a whole gram!!!!!

@p3eps What seat did you get?

You bought the S-Works, and already have a new Enve bar and stem on order - probably at about £420 like mine?!!

I bought the Specialized Phenom S-Works. I had the Phenom Expert on my Stumpy, so knew I’d like it. Pretty much the same seat, with carbon rails and base.

 

[FunkeyMunky]

Put some better damper inside the fox34.
You wont get nothing extra with pike.

If you want hole different fork, go for the lyrik like @Gary said.

I’m a heavy guy 103 kg, going for the SL expert (only model available at the moment). Should I change dampers straight away or ride with the stock configuration first? Planning an one month holiday in Norway as part of the summer holiday

 

[boBE]

How else can you loose 1kg for $1000?

I spent £300 on a cassette to lose ~100g.
£230 on a saddle to lose ~100g
£240 on a stem to lose ~75g
£180 on bars to lose ~135g

For me, $1000 on a 1kg lighter frame is a cheap and easy way of losing weight right from the start. A good carbon wheel set might save you ~500-800g, but will cost over $1000.

Yes, the SL has a motor and the weight doesn’t matter ‘as much’, but it still matters.

"How else can you loose 1kg for $1000?" Eat a lot of fiber and take a big dump before we ride?

Seriously, me and the bike are close to 100 kg so to lose 1 kg means I will climb a hill in 9:54 instead of 10 minutes. That's not worth $1000 to me, but if it enhances your ride and makes it more fun then it is certainly worth it. I have spent more to get less on other endeavors but that's another story...

 

[Fivetones]

How else can you loose 1kg for $1000?

I spent £300 on a cassette to lose ~100g.
£230 on a saddle to lose ~100g
£240 on a stem to lose ~75g
£180 on bars to lose ~135g

For me, $1000 on a 1kg lighter frame is a cheap and easy way of losing weight right from the start. A good carbon wheel set might save you ~500-800g, but will cost over $1000.

Yes, the SL has a motor and the weight doesn’t matter ‘as much’, but it still matters.

On the Comp and Comp Carbon you can lose 250g straight off by changing the NX cassette. Change the wheels for some Hunt wheels and save 400-450g. Then save 300g by going tubeless. These are rotating weights so will have a comparatively bigger effect than losing static weight off the frame.

btw. The difference between carbon and alu SL is around 800g. I’ve nerded around this a lot.

The alu looks much more streamlined around the motor too so looks even less like an ebike.

Which would I chose? It’s a tricky call. Probably the one I could find in stock with the best deal. Minor SL 2021 revisions are coming too so that might help in negotiating.

 

[MrBrownstone]

On the downhill SL is more capable, nimble, faster, flickable.

Way less planted tho. I would hardly say more capable due to less Planted. DH bikes are heavy. And are most capable for descending as far as acoustic bikes go. Plus on a FF emtb you can accelerate much faster than an SL on the pedally parts.

 

[MrBrownstone]

How else can you loose 1kg for $1000?

I spent £300 on a cassette to lose ~100g.
£230 on a saddle to lose ~100g
£240 on a stem to lose ~75g
£180 on bars to lose ~135g

For me, $1000 on a 1kg lighter frame is a cheap and easy way of losing weight right from the start. A good carbon wheel set might save you ~500-800g, but will cost over $1000.

Yes, the SL has a motor and the weight doesn’t matter ‘as much’, but it still matters.

It’s really about the motor and you, the other motor that matters. An SL could be 30 pounds and a bone stock base level 50 pound aluminum Levo is still gonna crush it haha.?

 

[Fivetones]

It’s really about the motor and you, the other motor that matters. An SL could be 30 pounds and a bone stock base level 50 pound aluminum Levo is still gonna crush it haha.?

The perception of how a bike rides is much more nuanced than this though. Distribution of weight and how much of that rotates plays a huge part too. You would be absolutely correct if you were just fixed in position and didn’t move other than to pedal, say if you were measuring the power on a smart trainer.

 

[TomH79]

Way less planted tho. I would hardly say more capable due to less Planted. DH bikes are heavy. And are most capable for descending as far as acoustic bikes go. Plus on a FF emtb you can accelerate much faster than an SL on the pedally parts.

I have ridden both, sl and have had 3 ff's.
Over limiter ff feels like elephant,where the sl is like F1 car.
What comes to the planted feeling, is all about suspension. An light xc bike can also feel planted, if the suspension is dialed.
If suspension sucks, all bikes feel horrible.
Modern dh bikes are lot lighter than sl

 

[MrBrownstone]

I have ridden both, sl and have had 3 ff's.
Over limiter ff feels like elephant,where the sl is like F1 car.
What comes to the planted feeling, is all about suspension. An light xc bike can also feel planted, if the suspension is dialed.
If suspension sucks, all bikes feel horrible.
Modern dh bikes are lot lighter than sl

Do you live where limit is 15 or 20mph?