My Aussie Cheeb

[RoyRoy]

I have the DPC 241 (Bluetooth) Display. Contra: Hard to read, the smaller details I cannot identify while riding, generally difficult depending on light. Visibility is not good at all. Plugs getting loose from time to time, causing Error 30, no problem if You are aware. Clamp doesn’t fit to 35mm stem.
Pro:
Stealth look and safe place. Good menue and all information You need on one screen. Charging port for phone.

What can you do with the Bluetooth? I had read about some Bafang Go app - is it worth it at all?? Volition can send me a DPC240 for $150, which is a bit shit because that was what was in the actual spec for the bike, but I think the 240 they would send would be out of their own inventory, but still It’s not a cheap bike to begin with.

After reading on Bafang for so long now it night pay to have a spare display if you want to keep the bike going in the event of a damaged or faulty display. So im considering getting the 240 - unless 241 Bluetooth is better/useful? And retiring the larger DPC18 to the spares box.

 

[RoyRoy]

Hi Roy, No play in the rear end. I had mine assembled at the shop. No problems with the dropper lever yet. Does look a bit weak and the cable fit is crap. Will be interested to see what you come up with.

Now just over 100kms. No probs with chains and sprockets but I am "mechanically sympathetic" after reading issues for others.

This thing gets me to places I would not previously considered. Pretty awesome.

Ok i eventually got the dropper working. required a bit of macgyvering. Basically The screw in the barrel was too short and wouldnt screw in far enough for the cable diameter, it was pulling through the lever when i would go to activate it. I didnt have a longer screw with the same thread/size so I cut some metal, dropped it in and screwed the screw back in, gave it a bit more length so now its holding strong. The dropper is a cheap POS. The action is crazy. Not sure if anyone has seen a dropper that activates by the cable sheath ‘pushing’ up on the activation mechanism, but thats how this one works. I’m looking at replacing it if i have ANY trouble whatsoever. Last thing i want to worry about on the trail is the dropper being stranded at a certain height.

 

[RoyRoy]

Spares - what has anyone got on deck for this frame?
I wouldnt mind getting a full bearing set for the frame. Has anyone got spares of these? I’m not sure which joints have bearings in them, without unscrewing stuff. Guessing you would need to order another set off bafang though.
I’m chasing volition for a spare derailleur hanger.
Headset parts?

I’m on holidays for a full week, but i plan to do some single track after i get back. Will be the first real ride on some tough stuff. I’ll say this though, the extra weight of an ebike seems to give so more more stability, especially in the air
That gets me to another question regarding carbon frames - what carriers are ya’ll using? I need to get a new one and I’m thinking one where the wheels are on a solid platform. I have one of those hangers that grab the top tube for my previous alloy bikes. Dont want to use that to lug it around, they are EXXY as hell though.

 

[thaeber]

What can you do with the Bluetooth? I had read about some Bafang Go app - is it worth it at all?? Volition can send me a DPC240 for $150, which is a bit shit because that was what was in the actual spec for the bike, but I think the 240 they would send would be out of their own inventory, but still It’s not a cheap bike to begin with.

After reading on Bafang for so long now it night pay to have a spare display if you want to keep the bike going in the event of a damaged or faulty display. So im considering getting the 240 - unless 241 Bluetooth is better/useful? And retiring the larger DPC18 to the spares box.

The Bafang Go App is almost useless in my opinion. But: Whenever they may develop something better, You are ready with the BT option.

 

[Waynemarlow]

The concept of the App is very good with the BT of the DC241 doing exactly what should be expected of a modern digital integration between motor and display. But for some reason Bafang have locked out only the motor upgrade side and also not expanded the application to match other manufacturers. Rather than upgrade the display would you not be better to use an old mobile phone as a display, it will talk to the motor OK via the 241 display and would give you proper Nav as well. There are some really good protective phone cases and some of the rugged phones are probably cheaper than a display.

I would almost put a bet down of a pint of beer that the Bafang Go has everything there ready to go but Bafang have locked it out. Are there any App developers out there on the forum that could take a peak ?

 

[RoyRoy]

Being able to OTA the motor and other peripheral firmware would be amazing! Does anyone update firmware themselves using BESST? If so care to share your experience.

@Waynemarlow the more i think about it the better it would be to have a small bike display with BT and have your mobile phone connected when you need it, for nav especially as you suggest.
Cheers - I‘llsee if i can get hold of a 241. Makes sense to get that over a 240 if I’m going to the trouble of getting a new display.

 

[Waynemarlow]

The 241 is actually a good display size if you have good eyesight, with just a few simple changes in the way it displays data ( make every data type able to be displayed as the main middle row ) then even the poorer short sighted such as myself could read it. It sits down well under the handlebar and is quite discreet, has BT which actually links to the motor and mobile phones, what more could you want for.

Sadly it just needs real riders to talk to the developers and its problems could be sorted really quickly.

 

[zzkazu]

Spares - what has anyone got on deck for this frame?
I wouldnt mind getting a full bearing set for the frame. Has anyone got spares of these? I’m not sure which joints have bearings in them, without unscrewing stuff. Guessing you would need to order another set off bafang though.
I’m chasing volition for a spare derailleur hanger.
Headset parts?

I’m on holidays for a full week, but i plan to do some single track after i get back. Will be the first real ride on some tough stuff. I’ll say this though, the extra weight of an ebike seems to give so more more stability, especially in the air
That gets me to another question regarding carbon frames - what carriers are ya’ll using? I need to get a new one and I’m thinking one where the wheels are on a solid platform. I have one of those hangers that grab the top tube for my previous alloy bikes. Dont want to use that to lug it around, they are EXXY as hell though.

In terms of bike rack, I got this and it was on sale for $299 at the store.

Costco

www.costco.com.au

 

[RoyRoy]

Nice, that rack is just holding the wheels, so no frame clamping or pressure. good price too. I’ll add it to the list cheers.

 

[RoyRoy]

Has anyone noticed their frame creaking? Even with minuscule movements.

To those that did the build themselves, did you use grease on everything that bolts into/through the frame? After a few rides i have noticed a creaking noise coming from various parts of the frame. I removed the rear shock and noticed no grease where it attaches to the frame, and I’m guessing the rest of the bike has no grease, especially the headset cups. Looking for advice, should i pull everything apart and inspect/grease everything. Is there anything I shouldn’t grease?

 

[dvng]

then

Has anyone noticed their frame creaking? Even with minuscule movements.

To those that did the build themselves, did you use grease on everything that bolts into/through the frame? After a few rides i have noticed a creaking noise coming from various parts of the frame. I removed the rear shock and noticed no grease where it attaches to the frame, and I’m guessing the rest of the bike has no grease, especially the headset cups. Looking for advice, should i pull everything apart and inspect/grease everything. Is there anything I shouldn’t grease?

the shock yoke shd be greased and also the expansion bolt of the headset. other areas I just left it alone. too much grease will attract dirt.

 

[RoyRoy]

then


the shock yoke shd be greased and also the expansion bolt of the headset. other areas I just left it alone. too much grease will attract dirt.

Yeah I’m not a fan of attracting dirt into places that you wouldnt want it.

You mentioned the shock yoke, does that include maybe all the linkages and pivot points? I expect those are probably ok as they should contain bearings which would already have grease. But i might I just pull all the linkages apart. The “Creaking/cracking” noise just kind of annoys me. Its not doing any harm? I’ve never had carbon before.

 

[dvng]

Yeah I’m not a fan of attracting dirt into places that you wouldnt want it.

You mentioned the shock yoke, does that include maybe all the linkages and pivot points? I expect those are probably ok as they should contain bearings which would already have grease. But i might I just pull all the linkages apart. The “Creaking/cracking” noise just kind of annoys me. Its not doing any harm? I’ve never had carbon before.

just the part connecting to the shock

 

[RoyRoy]

Eco and Sport mode - Is this an option for the M600 and what does it actually do?

I know how to switch between Sport and Eco on the display, but does the controller actually support it? Sport mode doesnt seem to be using any more power. I’m wondering if its even supported on the M600.

its actually hard to find anything definitive online.

 

[vudu]

Eco and Sport mode - Is this an option for the M600 and what does it actually do?

I know how to switch between Sport and Eco on the display, but does the controller actually support it? Sport mode doesnt seem to be using any more power. I’m wondering if its even supported on the M600.

its actually hard to find anything definitive online.

Available on my M600. Noticeable difference between the 2 modes on mine. Typical cruising use Eco 3, and for rocky hills that I can barely walk up, Power 5, biggest rear sprocket is the go. Pedals up easily or just use the throttle. Eco 3 would not provide enough assistance. I would expect greater distance overall on Eco. I typicality start out on Eco for the exercise switching to Power as needed or later in the ride to maximise discharge.

 

[patdam]

Available on my M600. Noticeable difference between the 2 modes on mine. Typical cruising use Eco 3, and for rocky hills that I can barely walk up, Power 5, biggest rear sprocket is the go. Pedals up easily or just use the throttle. Eco 3 would not provide enough assistance. I would expect greater distance overall on Eco. I typicality start out on Eco for the exercise switching to Power as needed or later in the ride to maximise discharge.

you enter in your display parameter mode and you change setting during your ride ?

 

[RoyRoy]

Available on my M600. Noticeable difference between the 2 modes on mine. Typical cruising use Eco 3, and for rocky hills that I can barely walk up, Power 5, biggest rear sprocket is the go. Pedals up easily or just use the throttle. Eco 3 would not provide enough assistance. I would expect greater distance overall on Eco. I typicality start out on Eco for the exercise switching to Power as needed or later in the ride to maximise discharge.

Approx how much range are you getting? I’m assuming you are configured for 5 assistance levels?

I dont notice much if any difference between eco and sport, which is why i wondered if it wasn’t actually supported by the controller. I’ve been using eco for everything so far. I might try my next single track in sport mode. I use PAS 1-2 on the trails and move up to 3 if I’m climbing and want an easy go of it. My last ride i was a bit shocked at the (bad) range. I think i started on around 70% and in 12kms i was at 20% using PAS 1-3, in saying that I hadn’t charged it after a few short rides totalling about 20kms.

Crusing at 35+ also eats the battery in no time.

 

[vudu]

Not sure about range. After 1-5 - 2 hours and 20-25km's of trails i'm typically exhausted and have 60ish% battery remaining. Usually start with a full charge.

 

[Hondy]

Approx how much range are you getting? I’m assuming you are configured for 5 assistance levels?

I dont notice much if any difference between eco and sport, which is why i wondered if it wasn’t actually supported by the controller. I’ve been using eco for everything so far. I might try my next single track in sport mode. I use PAS 1-2 on the trails and move up to 3 if I’m climbing and want an easy go of it. My last ride i was a bit shocked at the (bad) range. I think i started on around 70% and in 12kms i was at 20% using PAS 1-3, in saying that I hadn’t charged it after a few short rides totalling about 20kms.

Crusing at 35+ also eats the battery in no time.

Hello , just put out my info on the range for M600 ....I drive another controller 43V 20A from FLX (=battery 48Volt 840wh).
I can reach about 85km on 1 battery and about 600hm in totall (mostly pas2 from 5) ,there is no real mountain overhere but more like smaller hills ,country riding !

 

[Sandur-Rx]

Hello , just put out my info on the range for M600 ....I drive another controller 43V 20A from FLX (=battery 48Volt 840wh).
I can reach about 85km on 1 battery and about 600hm in totall (mostly pas2 from 5) ,there is no real mountain overhere but more like smaller hills ,country riding ! View attachment 83532

Did you get that controller for a specific reason?

 

[Hondy]

Did you get that controller for a specific reason?

Yes looking for more range but still some punch and lower consumption ...i ride with an extra battery in backpack what makes longer rides (= marathon)of 120km and more possible ....

 

[RoyRoy]

Hello , just put out my info on the range for M600 ....I drive another controller 43V 20A from FLX (=battery 48Volt 840wh).
I can reach about 85km on 1 battery and about 600hm in totall (mostly pas2 from 5) ,there is no real mountain overhere but more like smaller hills ,country riding ! View attachment 83532

85k’s sounds pretty damn good!

I have just ordered a new saddle, I couldn’t ride more than about 20kms seated constantly. When i ride the new saddle in i plan to do a bit of a range test myself. Will post a comparison. My home town is pretty flat also.

I am curious, how is the PAS and torque applied with that controller Compared to the stock controller? As smooth?

 

[Hondy]

85k’s sounds pretty damn good!

I have just ordered a new saddle, I couldn’t ride more than about 20kms seated constantly. When i ride the new saddle in i plan to do a bit of a range test myself. Will post a comparison. My home town is pretty flat also.

I am curious, how is the PAS and torque applied with that controller Compared to the stock controller? As smooth?

Hello ,in pas 1 is for athletes and lower assistent ...(-; pas2 is the one you need ...3 is the same as pas1 original ... Torque is good as you push harder you get more power .. feel is better ,what i think and believe tobe happening on a ebike ....on a normall flat road you get even 95 km with Average speed of 29.4 kmh on 1 battery .(840wh)

 

[Sandur-Rx]

Yes looking for more range but still some punch and lower consumption ...i ride with an extra battery in backpack what makes longer rides (= marathon)of 120km and more possible ....

I drive a 48v m600 to. Would you advise me to do the same mod?

 

[Hondy]

I drive a 48v m600 to. Would you advise me to do the same mod?

From my point off view its a real easy and a good upgrade ....you still can go back whenever you want

 

[Wax]

I have been riding the bike heaps and I love it. I just ordered my wireless rear derailer. Can’t wait to see how it works out

 

[djol]

I have been riding the bike heaps and I love it. I just ordered my wireless rear derailer. Can’t wait to see how it works out

Wax, is that an Archer D1x or the SRAM AXS?

I’m planning on an Archer for my E10 build / very curious to hear what you think of electronic shifting as an DIY-eMTB addition once you get one. Perhaps an eMTBforums mini-review…?

 

[Hondy]

Wax, is that an Archer D1x or the SRAM AXS?

I’m planning on an Archer for my E10 build / very curious to hear what you think of electronic shifting as an DIY-eMTB addition once you get one. Perhaps an eMTBforums mini-review…?

Best investment you can get .. no wires and works everytime( Axs) batteries are really good ,no hassle what so ever ....my 2 cents

 

[Wax]

Wax, is that an Archer D1x or the SRAM AXS?

I’m planning on an Archer for my E10 build / very curious to hear what you think of electronic shifting as an DIY-eMTB addition once you get one. Perhaps an eMTBforums mini-review…?

I will do a report, I was lucky enough to get the rona and so I have not been able to ride

 

[Kyokushin]

guys, you dont need to change the controller, its enough to change firmware. Controllers are same hardaware, the difference is software.