M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

[Radolf]

I have soldered 0,2 nikel strips at the + side (easy to solder), the negative side is spot welded.

Thank You very much for the photos, they make it a lot easier because why have to force open the door

Great job! why did You solder the positive pole and not weld it? if this is a more reasonable solution, maybe I will also go this route - I have some Chinese one, but it is sufficient for my needs and I will probably be able to handle it - what kind of soldering acid did you use?

Borys - are You from Poland? :-D

 

[borysgo2]

I soldered positive side because it has lower thermal capacity and it is easy to solder, not much heat is been transferred to the cell itself, which is harder to do at the negative side of the cell.

Yes I am from PL.

Regards

 

[PaulH]

Ha

D

I had a similar problem with the CEF50, I got some TI bolts from AliExpress and they've been awesome.

Could you post any links for the CEF50 bolts you were to find on Ali please?

I soldered positive side because it has lower thermal capacity and it is easy to solder, not much heat is been transferred to the cell itself, which is harder to do at the negative side of the cell.

Yes I am from PL.

Regards

Or, solder power lead onto the tab before spot welding to the cell

 

[Goff]

I have been riding my LCE930 for a few weeks now with great pleasure. However, I find the frame has a lot more pedal bob than the LCES0004 I had before with the same Fox DPX2 EVOL Performance damper. Anyone else notice this too?

Can’t say notice more peddle bob than my other ebike , I run a Dvo coil shock.

 

[Radolf]

BMS is JBD

Which version exactly?:
- 20Ampere | peak 60A | automatic detection 7-14S?
- 30Ampere | peak 90A | automatic detection 7-14S?
or something else?

=====

I'm looking for a portable charger up to approx. 60A with adjustable voltage and current, it may be from China, can you recommend something? Initially, I was thinking about the Wanpek APS605H 60V5A regulated power supply, but it is not suitable for trips.

 

[borysgo2]

I have 30Amp version of BMS. As a charger I am using lab psu 60V 5A. On aliexpress you can buy 4Amp charger for 12S battery for about 25eur.

 

[Goff]

Does anyone know what frame this is?

It looks like a Light Carbon design

 

[patdam]

Markhor new carbon ebike Kunlun with M560 motor

www.emtbforums.com

 

[NCMTB Rider]

Another LCE930 on the trails in North Carolina! 3 rides in and enjoying the emtb immensely. 41.4 lbs as I ride. I am still dialing in my Fox suspension but very stable planted ride.

Special thanks to Jim at Lightcarbon for all his help! Build one or order one from Karbonbikes.com

Scott

 

[like-bike]

Hi everyone, I'm asking for your help. I'm making an LCE930 and I have practically all the pieces but I'm missing some and I'm having trouble finding them. in the engine kit, there was no charging socket for the battery. secondly I can't find the SR SD071.02 brake rotor speed sensor.
I would be very grateful if you can help me.... thank you very much

 

[brbr]

Hi everyone, I'm asking for your help. I'm making an LCE930 and I have practically all the pieces but I'm missing some and I'm having trouble finding them. in the engine kit, there was no charging socket for the battery. secondly I can't find the SR SD071.02 brake rotor speed sensor.
I would be very grateful if you can help me.... thank you very much

Is it a bafang battery ?

 

[Radolf]

secondly I can't find the SR SD071.02 brake rotor speed sensor.

If I'm not mistaken, this is the set:

Bafang SR SD02.01 Czujnik kadencji Posrebrzany | Bikeinn Czujniki

Zdobądź Bafang SR SD02.01 w kolorze Posrebrzany za 0 €. Idealne dla rowerowy, z szybką dostawą. Kup teraz Czujniki na Bikeinn!

www.tradeinn.com

Bafang EB 1T1 K Kabel Posrebrzany | Bikeinn Silniki i akumulatory do rowerów elektrycznych

Zdobądź Bafang EB 1T1 K Kabel w kolorze Posrebrzany za 0 €. Idealne dla rowerowy, z szybką dostawą. Kup teraz Silniki i akumulatory do rowerów elektrycznych na Bikeinn!

www.tradeinn.com

As for the charging port - I'm looking for a good solution - but I will make the battery myself.
Maybe someone can tell me what is good and waterproof?

 

[like-bike]

Is it a bafang battery ?

I don't make a DIY 48 V and 15 Ah battery

 

[like-bike]

If I'm not mistaken, this is the set:

Bafang SR SD02.01 Czujnik kadencji Posrebrzany | Bikeinn Czujniki

Zdobądź Bafang SR SD02.01 w kolorze Posrebrzany za 0 €. Idealne dla rowerowy, z szybką dostawą. Kup teraz Czujniki na Bikeinn!

www.tradeinn.com

Bafang EB 1T1 K Kabel Posrebrzany | Bikeinn Silniki i akumulatory do rowerów elektrycznych

Zdobądź Bafang EB 1T1 K Kabel w kolorze Posrebrzany za 0 €. Idealne dla rowerowy, z szybką dostawą. Kup teraz Silniki i akumulatory do rowerów elektrycznych na Bikeinn!

www.tradeinn.com

As for the charging port - I'm looking for a good solution - but I will make the battery myself.
Maybe someone can tell me what is good and waterproof?

no thanks, the sensor you put in is already there
I would need this:

 

[Adam Anderson]

Does anyone know what frame this is?

It looks like a Light Carbon design


View attachment 140192

 

[Radolf]

I build the battery myself, so I need to buy a charging port that we attach to the bicycle frame. Please tell us what non-standard port You bought, and the photo of what it looks like was great

 

[Goff]

I build the battery myself, so I need to buy a charging port that we attach to the bicycle frame. Please tell us what non-standard port You bought, and the photo of what it looks like was great

I used an XT60 port.

 

[Radolf]

I used an XT60 port.

Thanks. Did you have to enlarge the hole for this connector? Is the cap waterproof?

 

[Goff]

Thanks. Did you have to enlarge the hole for this connector? Is the cap waterproof?

Yes I had to carefully file the hole a small amount, yes it’s waterproof

 

[Radolf]

Cool. This type of connector appeals to me! I'll install one too ;-) Apart from the topic, are you satisfied with the engine? does it heat up a lot? is it noisy? I'm planning to leave by the end of next week and what I'm most afraid of is the engine - it won't meet my expectations.

 

[Goff]

Cool. This type of connector appeals to me! I'll install one too ;-) Apart from the topic, are you satisfied with the engine? does it heat up a lot? is it noisy? I'm planning to leave by the end of next week and what I'm most afraid of is the engine - it won't meet my expectations.

I love the motor, no problems with it at all, I ride it on full power always, it does preform well, it’s like my M510 on mid power.
It has a run on that some may not like but it’s perfect for my style of riding which is more technical with roots etc.
it’s very responsive.
It is nosier than my M510 but I wouldn’t say it’s noisy at all.

 

[Radolf]

I'll brag about it too But there's still some work ahead of me, including: small correction of battery mounting, charging socket, seatpost, adjustments...

 

[like-bike]

I have had so much help and inspiration from this forum, thank you all for that!

Here is my frame now painted and battery build in progress. Can’t wait to get it on the trails!
View attachment 127180 View attachment 127181 View attachment 127182 View attachment 127183

HI, sorry but how did you make the connections between the cells?

 

[Radolf]

HI, sorry but how did you make the connections between the cells?

Hello, I made a package that looks the same, I glued the cells together with Loctite 5970 sealant (resistant to vibrations and very adhesive), I welded it with 0.2 mm plates made of pure nickel, I bent the middle plate into the shape of the letter "W", if you use 21700 cells, I think that the maximum width of the finished package should not exceed 64 mm (I made the cells themselves 63 mm wide, but 62 mm would be better). The base for the cells is made of a 5 mm thick solid polycarbonate plate in which I installed slightly modified M5 claw nuts. I glued the finished cell package to a polycarbonate plate using Loctite and wrapped it with fiber-reinforced tape and a heat-shrinkable sleeve...

 

[like-bike]

Hello, I made a package that looks the same, I glued the cells together with Loctite 5970 sealant (resistant to vibrations and very adhesive), I welded it with 0.2 mm plates made of pure nickel, I bent the middle plate into the shape of the letter "W", if you use 21700 cells, I think that the maximum width of the finished package should not exceed 64 mm (I made the cells themselves 63 mm wide, but 62 mm would be better). The base for the cells is made of a 5 mm thick solid polycarbonate plate in which I installed slightly modified M5 claw nuts. I glued the finished cell package to a polycarbonate plate using Loctite and wrapped it with fiber-reinforced tape and a heat-shrinkable sleeve...

View attachment 142061 View attachment 142062 View attachment 142063 View attachment 142064 View attachment 142065 View attachment 142066

ah ok thank you.
I would like to do as in the photo instead. with small but very resistant 3D printed blocks (pa12 cf 20/25) and then closing everything in heat shrink and reinforcing the holes with American or carbon cloth tape. but I was actually interested in knowing the electrical connections if possible. because I make 13 small packs of 3 cells in parallel to already have the 15 AH, then connect all 13 in series to bring everything to 48V and therefore have 48V for 15AH = approximately 720.
among small packages you certainly need to insulate them, can I do this with insulating tape?

 

[Radolf]

ah ok thank you.
I would like to do as in the photo instead. with small but very resistant 3D printed blocks (pa12 cf 20/25) and then closing everything in heat shrink and reinforcing the holes with American or carbon cloth tape. but I was actually interested in knowing the electrical connections if possible. because I make 13 small packs of 3 cells in parallel to already have the 15 AH, then connect all 13 in series to bring everything to 48V and therefore have 48V for 15AH = approximately 720.
among small packages you certainly need to insulate them, can I do this with insulating tape?

Somehow I'm afraid whether single mounting points will be enough!? - personally, I think that the entire length of the pack must be rigidly fastened because when driving off-road, any small movements of the cells can result in broken connections, abrasions in the insulation, and in the worst case, a short circuit! That's why I used gluing between the battery cells, a thick spacer between the two rows (I also used glue) and wrapped the whole thing solidly with fiberglass filament tapes, and the heat-shrinkable sleeve is only a rough protection against moisture/water.
As for the electrical connections, I think that the attached photos clearly show how I did it, and you can guess the rest - and your package is exactly what I did, i.e. 13S3P, the most important thing is the insulation between the first and second layer of cells and at the poles positive links.

 

[like-bike]

Somehow I'm afraid whether single mounting points will be enough!? - personally, I think that the entire length of the pack must be rigidly fastened because when driving off-road, any small movements of the cells can result in broken connections, abrasions in the insulation, and in the worst case, a short circuit! That's why I used gluing between the battery cells, a thick spacer between the two rows (I also used glue) and wrapped the whole thing solidly with fiberglass filament tapes, and the heat-shrinkable sleeve is only a rough protection against moisture/water.
As for the electrical connections, I think that the attached photos clearly show how I did it, and you can guess the rest - and your package is exactly what I did, i.e. 13S3P, the most important thing is the insulation between the first and second layer of cells and at the poles positive links.

ok thank tou to much

 

[clix]

E-BIKE Light :: agazzinibikes

E-Mtb leggera e potente con il nuovo motore Bafang M820

www.agazzinibike.it

 

[Freda]

Question for the ones riding this frame with a coil shock, are you easily blowing through the travel? With an airshock I find I need lots of tokens to make it more progressive. I like to have a coil shock but I am afraid the leverage curve is not progressive enough..

 

[clix]

Question for the ones riding this frame with a coil shock, are you easily blowing through the travel? With an airshock I find I need lots of tokens to make it more progressive. I like to have a coil shock but I am afraid the leverage curve is not progressive enough..

I am 71kg + gear. I have 2023 super deluxe ultimete with 450lbs spring. I have lsc and hsc closed and it still feels very plush. But it is still quite easy to bottom it out. Even with the HBO. My shock does have L(ligth) compression tune and considering the levrage rate, it would probably benifit from M or H.
I just recieved 500lbs spring, and will try it in folowing weeks, to see if it would be any better regarding bottoming out.