M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)

[JimLee-Lightcarbon]

After some time spent with sandpaper and rattle cans I'm finally ready to start assembling my LCE930!

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Great! Looking forward to your more sharing!

 

[haydz26]

Just looking at crank arm options... obviously isis spline but what is the correct offset or q factor is it the same as bosch/yamaha? I can get my hands on a carbon crankset for bosch/yamaha for a really good price ... cheers

 

[mike_kelly]

Remember "Q" does not have anything to do with the motor. It has to do with how far the crank arms flare out. You need enough flare to clear the chainstays but not so much that your feet are too far apart to be comfortable.
Here is an image and some measurements I made for the CEF50 thread.

M820 Bafang - CEF50 frame (lightweight)

Can you tell me which version to choose? 36V 43V or maybe 48V??? what are the pros and cons of a given voltage?

www.emtbforums.com

 

[JimLee-Lightcarbon]

Just looking at crank arm options... obviously isis spline but what is the correct offset or q factor is it the same as bosch/yamaha? I can get my hands on a carbon crankset for bosch/yamaha for a really good price ... cheers

the ISIS crank for bosch can use on it, under 170mm,

 

[patdam]

the ISIS crank for bosch can use on it, under 170mm,

For that i have understand following KaroKönig sharing, bosch cranks will be increase Q factor of 12mm on the M820.

Bafang m820

can u take photo the remote from side, so it show how thick it is? Display

www.emtbforums.com

 

[cwoodffr]

the ISIS crank for bosch can use on it, under 170mm,

@JimLee-Lightcarbon what is the crank length on the kit from Fortune? I have asked them a couple times but no answer on what comes with the M820 from them.

 

[mike_kelly]

For that i have understand following KaroKönig sharing, bosch cranks will be increase Q factor of 12mm on the M820.

Bafang m820

can u take photo the remote from side, so it show how thick it is? Display

www.emtbforums.com

The crank KaroKonig uses are made by Miranda. Miranda makes crank arms with multiple Q. The Q8, Q8FB, the Q16 etc.
All that changes is the flare of the crank arm. I have used the Q8 and the Q8FB. What Q is best for you depends on your stance. How wide a distance between your feet is comfortable. I am tall so I prefer a crank with more Q.
I current use the FSA crank because it is available in 150,155 and 160mm lengths.

 

[92se-r]

Do you have a weight for the fsa cranks?

 

[mike_kelly]

FSA makes lots of crank arms. If you look at the link above it has weights for all the crank arms I have.
My FSA CK220 are 205g per arm.

 

[Freda]

I use the Prowheel 152mm crank. Q-factor is higher then original. It is about 11 mm more per side compared to original bafang.

I definitely like the short crank, but q-factor is maybe too much, I am searching for some around 155-160 mm long with lower q-factor. Preferebly aluminium.

With the short crank I can really spin like crazy and this motor seems to work well on high cadens. And of course, no problem pedalstrikes. I can pedal all the way in most corners, even when leaning over.

 

[cwoodffr]

Anyone know what the medium frame front and back brake line lengths minimums are?

 

[crustafur]

I can try and get you a guesstimate on medium brake cable length this evening (EST).

 

[cwoodffr]

I can try and get you a guesstimate on medium brake cable length this evening (EST).

That would be useful!. Waiting on frame but buying parts like a mad man so I have everything on hand. @JimLee-Lightcarbon did reply suggesting 820 and 1550.

 

[crustafur]

Finally built up/first ride photos. Had a great first ride, motor has some characteristics I need to get used to coming from an EP800 bike. That bike was about 53lbs, so this thing is a lot more manageable. Need to get a final weight still.

 

[sandnap]

Nice looking bike @crustafur.

My LCE930 frame and motor arrived today. I now have everything I need to start my build.

 

[JimLee-Lightcarbon]

Finally built up/first ride photos. Had a great first ride, motor has some characteristics I need to get used to coming from an EP800 bike. That bike was about 53lbs, so this thing is a lot more manageable. Need to get a final weight still.

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Did you paint it by yourself? I have never seen this color.

 

[crustafur]

Did you paint it by yourself? I have never seen this color.

Yes sir, rattle cans

 

[raggertje]

It's really nice crustafur! How did you do that?

 

[crustafur]

It's really nice crustafur! How did you do that?

Just Krylon Fusion for the base & Krylon Marbelizing for the splatter/marble. It was pretty tough to not overdo and randomize.

 

[Freda]

So while changing brakes I noticed what others have mentioned here also. The headset is wearing down the cables and hoses very quickly.
This is my brake hose:

So I should probably get a different model, but for now I sanded down the sharp edges and hope for the best:

 

[brbr]

So while changing brakes I noticed what others have mentioned here also. The headset is wearing down the cables and hoses very quickly.
This is my brake hose:
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So I should probably get a different model, but for now I sanded down the sharp edges and hope for the best:
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That’s bad! Already changed my dropper post cable, I hope the rear brake won’t get damaged too fast

 

[crustafur]

So while changing brakes I noticed what others have mentioned here also. The headset is wearing down the cables and hoses very quickly.
This is my brake hose:
View attachment 133166
View attachment 133167

So I should probably get a different model, but for now I sanded down the sharp edges and hope for the best:
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View attachment 133170

Damn! You could probably also add some heat shrink to the cables/hoses near that location. I intend to pull mine apart to sort some routing issues I wasn't happy with. Good think on the clean up of the upper wedge.

 

[Freda]

The headset is designed so you have cables straight through, but in reality they are at an angle leaning against the sharp edges. So when turning the handlebar it is chewing really bad into the cables.

 

[sandnap]

The headset is designed so you have cables straight through, but in reality they are at an angle leaning against the sharp edges. So when turning the handlebar it is chewing really bad into the cables.

Thanks for the information and pictures. I will be taking measures to prevent this now too. A slice in a brake line wouldn't be fun .

 

[JimLee-Lightcarbon]

So while changing brakes I noticed what others have mentioned here also. The headset is wearing down the cables and hoses very quickly.
This is my brake hose:
View attachment 133166
View attachment 133167

So I should probably get a different model, but for now I sanded down the sharp edges and hope for the best:
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The new cover is smoother and will not damage the cable,

 

[crustafur]

The new cover is smoother and will not damage the cable,

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Jim, how can we go about ordering one of these?

 

[cwoodffr]

Jim was kind enough to send me some pics of my painted frame prior to shipping. I gave them a custom pantone and it is exactly as I had hoped!

 

[cwoodffr]

Jim was kind enough to send me some pics of my painted frame prior to shipping. I gave them a custom pantone and it is exactly as I had hoped!
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Frame got here in an incredible 5 days (China to Toronto) and its even nicer in person!

 

[cwoodffr]

TLDR: what orientation for lower shock hardware spacers?

Hey all. starting my rough in build (don't have motor yet) but suspension and running lines an such. The rear shock included bottom hardware....has 2 strange looking spacers / washers along with the bushing and bolt etc. The spacers have a distinct orientation requirement as one side has a an angled chamfer and the other flat. Seems pretty clear they take up the space between the frame mounts and the shock eyelet but which way are they to be oriented? Meaning, which side in and out.

sorry, no pic handy because it was last night puttering and it is 3 stories down right now. Those who know, will know.

 

[Goff]

TLDR: what orientation for lower shock hardware spacers?

Hey all. starting my rough in build (don't have motor yet) but suspension and running lines an such. The rear shock included bottom hardware....has 2 strange looking spacers / washers along with the bushing and bolt etc. The spacers have a distinct orientation requirement as one side has a an angled chamfer and the other flat. Seems pretty clear they take up the space between the frame mounts and the shock eyelet but which way are they to be oriented? Meaning, which side in and out.

sorry, no pic handy because it was last night puttering and it is 3 stories down right now. Those who know, will know.

I think you are describing the front motor mount spacers.
you need to purchase the bottom eyelet spacer