No, rear shock lower mount. All fits great. Want to know what the orientation of the two spacers should be.
M820 Bafang - LIGHTCARBON LCE930 Frame (lightweight)
- Thread starter mike_kelly
- Start date
sandnap
Member
Looking good! Did you buy your fork & shock second hand or are they new?
All pink bike either take off new or like new. Rear doesn't look like it has been mounted. Fox 36 a bit used, spotless stauncheons. Gx groupset new in box, slx brakes, new take offs.
sandnap
Member
My shock came from pink bike too and had less that 16 miles on it. Looks great. There are some serious deals on take-offs and like new components. Great time to build a bike!
JimLee-Lightcarbon
Lightcarbon
More updated information please.
at a stop till my motor ships! Can't continue unfortunately and shipments are delayed due to some update to battery covers?
This is the specifics to the question as posted by someone else with a picture of the chamfer.
manuwen
Member
Hi guys
I'm still not sure if I shoud buy a LCE 930 and have some questions... Hope they have not been answered yet in this thread.
1. What range can I expect out of the 410Wh Battery? Wondering how many meters of uphill you get in full power mode until you run out of battery. Do you have any real life experiences and maybe some strava logs?
2. Do you guys use range extenders? Is there any official solution by Bafang or by a third party supplier? Might be difficult for this 43V system right?
3. I have a Rockshox Zeb 170mm which I would like to use for the build. Do you recommend using a 170mm fork as the frame is intended to use 160mm forks?
Thanks a lot and cheers,
Manu
I'm still not sure if I shoud buy a LCE 930 and have some questions... Hope they have not been answered yet in this thread.
1. What range can I expect out of the 410Wh Battery? Wondering how many meters of uphill you get in full power mode until you run out of battery. Do you have any real life experiences and maybe some strava logs?
2. Do you guys use range extenders? Is there any official solution by Bafang or by a third party supplier? Might be difficult for this 43V system right?
3. I have a Rockshox Zeb 170mm which I would like to use for the build. Do you recommend using a 170mm fork as the frame is intended to use 160mm forks?
Thanks a lot and cheers,
Manu
Mainly in boost, I think I used 50%:
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I don’t run an extender, 43v means custom anyway.
1.Range in eco about 50km / 1200m elevation. Tour mode about 40km / 1000m. Rest of the modes I am using very rarely as they are too powerful for my riding style. Boost mode can be compared as not far away from bosch cx motor.
2. Only DIY range e tender so faf.
3. I have lyrik 170mm in my lce930, works bryliant.
Regards
Petet
1. I have DIY battery, 720Wh. I have only ridden this bike in the cold, since winter came early and has been very cold. Last ride was a 3h ride with -14 degrees Celsius, 45km only trails, battery went from 100% to 11%. I am waiting for warmer weather because I think range should be much longer than this. With around 25% battery left assistance goes down to minimum on all assist levels, which sucks.
2. Problem is how you connect it, you need something to prevent the extender to discharge into your main battery.
3. I am also running 170 Lyrik and it is fine, maybe overkill on trails, but with more downhill oriented riding it is probably nice to have.
TobyB
Member
Finally getting around to building my LCE930. I ordered the frames with custom paint from JimLee which came out really nice, matte finish. I’m running it as a mullet set up, marazochi z1 coil forks and Kitsuma coil shock. I need to build the front wheel and I’m waiting on another saddle so these parts are just to fill the spot until then. I’m running 155mm cranks from fsa. Hopefully will have time to finish it off and try it for the weekend. I also decided to run the rear brake on the outside with some adhesive tabs, let’s see how that goes. I haven’t weighed it. I need to cut down the brake hose length and bleed those also. I’ll post an update when I have finished the build. Excited to get out and try it! I also got a matching one for my wife in medium which I’ll build up after this one, she has a few different parts, Magura brakes, manitou mezzer pro fork and cane creek inline coil so it should be a touch lighter than mine. Forks are 170mm.
Looks amazing! Questions....why run the brake line external? servicing? What does the name mean? Where did you get your motor? I am still waiting! frustrating.
TobyB
Member
Hi there, the price and timeline varies a little with custom paint and if you want things like, I think the frame was around $950 ( I bought two so maybe there was a small discount) and the paint was around $200 and that included shipping, the Motor was from another vendor. The best is to Reach out to JimLee at LightCarbon either here or on Whatsapp, he was extremely responsive and helpful, I hear JimLee at light carbon may have some motor stocks too, so that might be the best route. It was a smooth experience, just prepare a little wait time if you want custom paint. The bikes look really nice in the flesh.
TobyB
Member
Thanks! I wanted to try the brake line outside first, it will make brake bleeds and servicing easier, I find with the cables I usually have to only replace inner cable from time to time so hopefully the internal cables I won't have to play with too much. The name on the downtube is a combo of mine and my wife's surnames blended together, I didn't want a bike with just paint and no logo and thought this looked nice and I thought it would look good and also be amusing to our friends. Hope your bike arrives soon! I look forward to finishing this up and getting it out on the trails!
Cool! I did find a retro letter C crest (first letter of my name) for the headtube. That will be the extent of the branding....I want people to be confused. You didn't say where your motor came from?
TobyB
Member
I got the motor from [email protected], that came with the cables 410wh battery cranks and handlebar controller also. It’s the 43 watt motor. I believe those came out to around $1150 each for the motor battery kit. I think again I got a slightly better price as I purchased two. I did have the same issue as some others with the main cable sent out being incorrect but they sent another one quickly and I actually got busy so haven’t been able to put the build together due to work. I assume the latest units they are sending they are aware of which cables they are using. Jim Lee at light carbon was extremely helpful on even helping with the motor side of the purchase. He recommended Bruce and when he even reached out to Bruce on my behalf when I needed the right cable. Have to say I’m really happy with his customer service. I pulled the trigger on one of these bikes from discovering this forum and seeing a few others fairly straightforward experiences. Hope this helps! Getting the motor in the frame you might need two people but if you are a fairly competent mechanic it’s not much more than building any normal bike. Hope that helps. Look forward to seeing everyone’s builds! I got a lot of my parts from shopping on sites such as bike24.de and things, I find getting some items there are much better value and maybe another alternative to Alliexpress. Thinks like Magura mt5s and formula curas are amazing brakes and not expensive. I run mine with the trickstuff power pads and trickstuff rotors. I bought my manitou forks there also and one cane creek shock. They won’t ship rockshox dt swiss or a few other brands to the USA. I also found newmen components for wheels great, although I have a dt swiss rear wheel I build up. I bought hope pro 5 front hubs for the build, schwalbe tires magic Mary and big Betty and I bought the dt swiss 350 hybrid rear hub. It seems to be the lightest or lighter rear hub that allows for e-bike loads. I wanted to keep the unsprung mass as low as possible. I also decided I don’t need a larger cassette than 11-46 so i bought a 10 spd shimano XT one, they are pretty cheap too, and I’m running the 10 speed deore medium cage rear mech and the shifter that goes with that, both very good value too. My bike yoke seatpost was to long but I had a 170mm ks so I put that in. I’d be interested in the one up too, I have that on another bike and they have the lowest stack heights in class it seems. The cranks from fsa were really cheap too, around $35 ish! And I run 155 also on my pedal mtb. Bars are Protaper, I get on well with the sweep on their bars and the stem is spank 33mm.
Same, I ordered from FLT....but they said they would not ship till after Chinese new year due to a battery protection plate being updated. And so it sits without its heart, until I can continue.
I tried to find contact info for Jim Lee but couldn't find it. Would you be able to give me the whatsapp for example?
I also noticed that they have some sort of EU warehouse. If this is legit.
I'll ask him about that and other stuff about buying the frame and possibly battery+motor.
Mobile/WhatsApp: +86 13459241476 Skype: waqvx3
E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.lightcarbon.com
@JimLee-Lightcarbon is also active on this forum and this thread
Haven't seen any threads about the Lightcarbon LCE39.
wondering what are people's thought about that frame vs Lightcarbon LCE971
wondering what are people's thought about that frame vs Lightcarbon LCE971
sandnap
Member
Moving my response to the LCE971 thread.
Last edited:
This is what I was afraid of. Because I really liked the 39 feature to have cables come out before headset and not from the headset like 971.
I'm also bit worried about the 971 rearshock placement since the whole PPV suspension set up is totally new to me.
My main focus is enduro style riding for sure. Forest off road mostly. I live in an area with tons of hills but not really big enough for real DH (other than maybe one or two places). I don't care about asphalt riding at all so xc, enduro and little dh is my main focus for sure.
I've just realised my rear axle was very loose and what is weird is that I torque it correctly 2 weeks ago :/ My rear wheel was clearly not help correctly and I've seen that because my derailleur was not shifting properly.
Any of you had this issue ? I don't really want to use loctite on the real axle, maybe I should ?
Any of you had this issue ? I don't really want to use loctite on the real axle, maybe I should ?
- Thread starter
- #900
I have had this happen before. I use hubs with easily removable end caps. So if the thru axle is not tight the end cap can move causing the shifting problems. I just re-tighten it and have not had it happened again.
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