thaeber
Well-known member
但出于礼貌,您可以使用软件进行翻译不好意思 !只會中文!
但出于礼貌,您可以使用软件进行翻译不好意思 !只會中文!
good,, I'm afraid, some things have different names但出于礼貌,您可以使用软件进行翻译
good,, I'm afraid, some things have different names
At least You managed to use the translator, the rest will come with more routine. If something is hard to understand because of translation error, there will be questions and easy clarification. The spirit is very kind in that forum, and we will maintain that! Thanks!I’m not very good at using this mailbox yet.
What do you mean with frame routing?Just ordered my Large E82 frame last night, here’s to hoping painting happens quick! I asked for both the 50mm and 70mm yokes so I can use my existing 210x55m shock and have the flexibility of using a 230x60-65 later if I ever want to increase the travel.
I’m happy they’re doing frame routing and offering the 840Wh battery now, that huge 1008Wh battery was one of the things detracting me from the frame. Ideally it would be another 100Wh Lowe to save a little more weight, but I’m happy with what it is for now.
What do you mean with frame routing?
They offer putting a regular hole at the top of the frame for the cables to enter instead of the headset routing now, so I opted for that even though I don’t hate headset routing as much as many people do. Just seems easier.What do you mean with frame routing?
I paid about $1750 for the frame, paint, extra yoke, and battery which included about $325 of air shipping to the US. The paint was $85 of that (Single color). They said it should ship within 3 weeks, the lead time just being for the paint to happen. Sounds like they have frames made in stock already.How much was the frame? How about paint job? Did they say anything about how long it would take?
It’s approximately 3mm of travel per mm of stroke, so with the 210x55 it should be about 160mm or so of rear travel, with the 230x65 it’s around 190mm. They posted a video showing simulated travel with a 50mm stroke and 65mm stroke rear shock. The different yokes make up the difference in total length between the 210mm and 230mm shocks to keep the rest of the geometry correct when sitting fully extended.How much does the travel increase between the yokes?
Yes I’m happy about the smaller battery as well, 1000+Wh is just way overkill for any normal trail riding, usually only see batteries that big on people commuting or building 1000W+ throttle heavy hot rod type bikes. Even the 840 is still definitely “big”, but at least not in the “huge” category.That's good to hear about the battery size. I bet there were many people who had no use for that big of a battery.
That's good that they offer that. I will soon make my own holes for the cables to my LCE971. Lightcarbon offers this currently on their own I think. At least they did for some time. Lightcarbon also said that making the holes myself does not void the warranty. The headset routing is nothing but pain. I have had many problems with it. Latest problem with it is that since it forces the cables to so tight turns it affects my shifting cable. Sometimes when I shift to higher gear it won't shift before I wiggle the cable housing near the headset routing.They offer putting a regular hole at the top of the frame for the cables to enter instead of the headset routing now, so I opted for that even though I don’t hate headset routing as much as many people do. Just seems easier.
I paid about $1750 for the frame, paint, extra yoke, and battery which included about $325 of air shipping to the US. The paint was $85 of that (Single color). They said it should ship within 3 weeks, the lead time just being for the paint to happen. Sounds like they have frames made in stock already.
It’s approximately 3mm of travel per mm of stroke, so with the 210x55 it should be about 160mm or so of rear travel, with the 230x65 it’s around 190mm. They posted a video showing simulated travel with a 50mm stroke and 65mm stroke rear shock. The different yokes make up the difference in total length between the 210mm and 230mm shocks to keep the rest of the geometry correct when sitting fully extended.
Yes I’m happy about the smaller battery as well, 1000+Wh is just way overkill for any normal trail riding, usually only see batteries that big on people commuting or building 1000W+ throttle heavy hot rod type bikes. Even the 840 is still definitely “big”, but at least not in the “huge” category.
I prefer that 720Wh size as well, and now have a brand new one sitting in my garage I’ll never be able to use… In case you didn’t see my other posts, I was planning on an LCE971 and finally gave up on it after waiting 3.5 months with at least one more month to go of repeated changes to the rear triangle due to durability issues. So I had everything purchased for that frame and had to pivot away, hence me needing the extra yoke for the E82 so I can make use of my shorter rear shock originally intended for the 971.That's good that they offer that. I will soon make my own holes for the cables to my LCE971. Lightcarbon offers this currently on their own I think. At least they did for some time. Lightcarbon also said that making the holes myself does not void the warranty. The headset routing is nothing but pain. I have had many problems with it. Latest problem with it is that since it forces the cables to so tight turns it affects my shifting cable. Sometimes when I shift to higher gear it won't shift before I wiggle the cable housing near the headset routing.
The pricing seems decent.
I have the 720wh battery on my bike with m560 750w and the motor seems extremely efficient so I have not been able to run the battery out yet.
What tool are you planning to use to do this? I'll also want to make holes in my e82 frame. From what I know HSS (high speed steel) drills are not recommended as they can easily damage the fibres in the carbon fibre. Instead, it is better to use carbide or diamond drills as they are more suitable for drilling hard materials such as carbon fibre.I will soon make my own holes for the cables to my LCE971.
Yes I saw that.. I don't know why they stopped selling the older frame while they are working on the new version.. I have not heard anyone breaking these two older rear triangles even. I did hear some people saying they wished it would be less flexible and some people wished the frame would fit the big shocks like vivid and x2. For example Denver has two rear triangles and he has not found the need to switch to the never version of rear triangle which I have. I have not noticed any problems with my rear triangle. Other than problems with the cables. They are super tightly inside the frame and this has caused few problems.I prefer that 720Wh size as well, and now have a brand new one sitting in my garage I’ll never be able to use… In case you didn’t see my other posts, I was planning on an LCE971 and finally gave up on it after waiting 3.5 months with at least one more month to go of repeated changes to the rear triangle due to durability issues. So I had everything purchased for that frame and had to pivot away, hence me needing the extra yoke for the E82 so I can make use of my shorter rear shock originally intended for the 971.
Yeah I don’t get it… Jim told me right around when I ordered that it was being strengthened due to “some customers reporting deflection in the rear triangle”. At the same time they were also switching around the cable routing through the rear shock area. At the time that update was supposed to be complete I was told there were issues with the mold that still led it to be weak so they were redoing it again, and I was assured about how much testing they do to ensure the best quality and they can’t let inferior stuff to out the door.Yes I saw that.. I don't know why they stopped selling the older frame while they are working on the new version.. I have not heard anyone breaking these two older rear triangles even. I did hear some people saying they wished it would be less flexible and some people wished the frame would fit the big shocks like vivid and x2. For example Denver has two rear triangles and he has not found the need to switch to the never version of rear triangle which I have. I have not noticed any problems with my rear triangle. Other than problems with the cables. They are super tightly inside the frame and this has caused few problems.
I have not chosen one yet. One of my friends said he has done some holes in carbon even with a sharp wood drill he just said it needs to be sharp so it won't tear the fibres but cut them instead. The drill bit will dull really fast though. I think that either carbide or diamond drill is best choise. I'm leaning towards diamond.What tool are you planning to use to do this? I'll also want to make holes in my e82 frame. From what I know HSS (high speed steel) drills are not recommended as they can easily damage the fibres in the carbon fibre. Instead, it is better to use carbide or diamond drills as they are more suitable for drilling hard materials such as carbon fibre.
Seems like something very high speed with fine teeth, like a diamond bit on a rotary tool would be best to avoid snagging the fibers like a slower moving drill bit may do. I'm no carbon expert though, so don't take my word as gospel.I have not chosen one yet. One of my friends said he has done some holes in carbon even with a sharp wood drill he just said it needs to be sharp so it won't tear the fibres but cut them instead. The drill bit will dull really fast though. I think that either carbide or diamond drill is best choise. I'm leaning towards diamond.
Can you post the picture here?Yeah I don’t get it… Jim told me right around when I ordered that it was being strengthened due to “some customers reporting deflection in the rear triangle”. At the same time they were also switching around the cable routing through the rear shock area. At the time that update was supposed to be complete I was told there were issues with the mold that still led it to be weak so they were redoing it again, and I was assured about how much testing they do to ensure the best quality and they can’t let inferior stuff to out the door.
As soon as that second redesign was done and I was expecting shipment of my own frame, I asked if things were still on track and Jim sent me a pic of someone’s bike that had the rear triangle snap in half in the first week of use with this new “well tested” design and that they had crushed all of the new triangles produced like that, and it would be another 35 days for yet another redesign.
It was at that point I lost all confidence in the frame and moved on. Clearly there’s fundamental issue in the design for that many iterations to be still be failing an entire year after initial release, and clearly their “rigorous testing” is not simulating anything like a real rider does if it snapped in half in the first week of use…
Here is what I was sent, the person was described as a "customer" and the frame is all painted so I highly doubt this was a durability test of any sort. The reported jump that broke it was about 50cm high...Can you post the picture here?
Yeah I heard that they are strengthening the rear triangle but like I said I have not heard or seen any rear triangles break from these older designs. All I heard that they have more flex than some people like and they would make it more rigid. I don't think the frames have had any problems with breaking.
For me I see this issue little bit different than you. The fact that they are pulling the already made parts from the market and will crush the ones they have in warehouse is only sign of good quality. Yes it sucks that people have to wait longer for the frames but I can trust on them to make sure the quality of the frame is well taken care of. The picture you were sent might have been from someone they sent the rear triangle to do the tests. Most likely not ordinary customer.
Wow!!!! the frame paint job is great.Here is what I was sent, the person was described as a "customer" and the frame is all painted so I highly doubt this was a durability test of any sort. The reported jump that broke it was about 50cm high...
I agree with with you that it's great that they're continuing to work on it and open and honest with the issues, but on the the other hand, a frame that has been publicly shipping to consumers for almost a full year and had the same problem part "fixed" 3 times to only keep having the same issue is certainly indicative of a serious problem. Had it been resolved any one of the first few attempts it would just be viewed as any normal manufacturing issue and nobody would be too surprised it cropped up. A perfect example is the i9 hydra hubs which had some bad issues early on, but they modified the design of a part and they've been solid since.
I still like LC and would buy another frame from them in the future for my next bike, I was really looking forward to the LCE971, but I just got spooked and tired of waiting, having lost just about an entire riding season on something I was supposed to have in about 6 weeks so I'm trying something else for now.
View attachment 146645
The LCE930 has been very popular and you can read all about it on the LCE930 thread. I have the LCE971 frame but it is currently being changed so I would wait with that.Thinking about a dengfu frame for a winter project. Has anyone actually ridden a e82? The seat angle looks to be very steep. Dengfu seem to have gone from super slack on older models to super steep on this one. Does the bike feel short?
Ideally would like the m820 model but looks like they haven’t made any large frames yet. The light carbon one is an option but also fancy a m620 just for deftness
Also heard the original m560s were very noisy. Has this been fixed?
I’ve had a 620 previously, a Frey am1000. Love the power, but the m560 looks to be a good compromise of power vs weight. Which 560 frame would you recommend? The dengfu one looks to have a very steep seat tube so I’m concerned it would feel cramped. The older models are really long. Somewhere in between would be great. Ideally 470-480 reach with a 630-640 top tubeThe LCE930 has been very popular and you can read all about it on the LCE930 thread. I have the LCE971 frame but it is currently being changed so I would wait with that.
I have m560 750w and the original problems have been fixed. The motor has been working flawlessly and I would totally recommend the motor. However I would stay away from m620. It's not great for mtb use. Better suited for cargo. Also it's extremely heavy.
I wish more motors were available for DIY but it seems more of the manufacturers just don’t want to deal with it. The Pinion MGU would make some great DIY builds as well, but most them are going to strictly sell to bike OEMs, I assume a lot of had to do with not dealing with consumers for support, which would understandably be a headache.I’ve had a 620 previously, a Frey am1000. Love the power, but the m560 looks to be a good compromise of power vs weight. Which 560 frame would you recommend? The dengfu one looks to have a very steep seat tube so I’m concerned it would feel cramped. The older models are really long. Somewhere in between would be great. Ideally 470-480 reach with a 630-640 top tube
Wonder if the new DJI motor will be available for diy builds. That would be fantastic. The dji bikes look great but they’re a lot of cash
I’ve had a 620 previously, a Frey am1000. Love the power, but the m560 looks to be a good compromise of power vs weight. Which 560 frame would you recommend? The dengfu one looks to have a very steep seat tube so I’m concerned it would feel cramped. The older models are really long. Somewhere in between would be great. Ideally 470-480 reach with a 630-640 top tube
Wonder if the new DJI motor will be available for diy builds. That would be fantastic. The dji bikes look great but they’re a lot of cash
The LCE971 looks just about perfect Seat tube angle still steeper that I’d prefer but not as bad as the dengfu e82. What were they thinking e22 seat angle 72. E82 is 78. Two silly extremes. 75 would have been perfect. The top tube is shorter than an orbea rise and I felt like my knees would hit the bars on my riseWell I'm very happy with my LCE971 but like I said they are updating the frame right now. The current/old frame is awesome but we will have to see how the new version will turn out. I have full confidence that it will be great but right now we have no idea when the next version will come out.
if your ordering from Dengfu they can send them with your frame just make to mention in your order details. also you will need to use DU bushings in the shock. the polymer ones will not workWhat size shock bushings do I need to fit the frame/yoke for a Fox shock? I haven’t seen the size spec’d anywhere and wanted to make sure I get the right ones shared of time if possible.
Edit: All I could find was a reference to them matching the E55 bushings and being a weird size Fox doesn’t sell of course. I went ahead and just placed an order from these guys to see if they have the correct size.
Standard Bushings - Pair
The finest quality shock bushings, made for your bike. Centre drilled, direct replacement for standard shock hardware. Compatible with Fox, RockShox, Cane Creek & more. Worldwide shipping.www.offsetbushings.com
I don't know why they made it sound like their bushings were only for a Rockshox shock, likely just a lack of understanding on behalf of the person answering the Alibaba chats from Dengfu. I think the ones from offsetbushings will be of better quality anyway, so I'll stick to those.if your ordering from Dengfu they can send them with your frame just make to mention in your order details. also you will need to use DU bushings in the shock. the polymer ones will not work
The World's largest electric mountain bike community.