Well they get paid to write this but it’s a great bike anyway
2024 Strive:ON
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
CrispyDesigns
Active member
They do to a degree but I've still read less positive reviews on bikes in MBUK tooWell they get paid to write this but it’s a great bike anyway
Ok, another dumb question, I've looked in the manual but it looks different, the web has no videos so I'm a bit stumped. I have the Underdog and went to convert to tubeless however, the rear through axle appears to be a large allen key hole with a 25NM torque? Do I just have to undo that? Does that mean I have to carry a large allen key with me all the time in case I need to remove the rear wheel? And 25NM is a lot, I can't judge that by hand and don't have a wrench that goes up to that and as it's carbon I'm paranoid about over torquing.
Please someone tell me I'm missing a much simpler way to remove it than that?
Please someone tell me I'm missing a much simpler way to remove it than that?
Yes, just a big Allen key. Not sure about the torque though. Should say on the frame.
The but that annoys me is that it's a different size Allen key to the front axle. Whyyyy?!
On my 2022 Canyon Spectral CF8 the front axle was quick release and the rear had Canyon's own quick release axle. Why they moved away from those I have no idea. Both much easier than faffing with Allen keys.
The but that annoys me is that it's a different size Allen key to the front axle. Whyyyy?!
On my 2022 Canyon Spectral CF8 the front axle was quick release and the rear had Canyon's own quick release axle. Why they moved away from those I have no idea. Both much easier than faffing with Allen keys.
Thanks, I'm just surprised (and annoyed) that I have to start carrying such a large allen key around all the time now. It's also bl**dy tight! There is a spanner in the bike box as well and I have no idea why they've included that
Something is probably going to fall off. Followed by me!The wrench is to help you put the bike together. It's a rudimentary torque wrench.Thanks, I'm just surprised (and annoyed) that I have to start carrying such a large allen key around all the time now. It's also bl**dy tight! There is a spanner in the bike box as well and I have no idea why they've included that
I'm not sure if it's possible to use Canyon's funky rear axle on this bike - it seemed to be suggesting it to me as an accessory. Basically it's an axle, but has a little pull-out handle so you can undo it without tools.
Really funky, so I have no idea why it's not standard fit on the Strive:On.
Me
Me threeWell, I was hoping they'd announce it at the recent event, but unfortunately that did not happen.
I added a comment about missing Garmin integration to their post to bring this to Bosch's attention, but I feel they don't see how important this may be for the users.
Maybe some more comments or requests in this post would bump this feature request in their queue for development...
If you're also missing Garmin integration, feel free to reply to my comment here; maybe that will attract Bosch attention
Winryn
Active member
Well that’s put any buyers remorse to bed. Had a quick hr riding the Wrekin this evening. Bike was absolutely epic. The way it climbs blew my mind, the descent the same, the way it rolls over roots, rocks, drop offs made me feel like a much better rider than before. Much more confidence. Shocked to say the Sram brakes were the best I’ve ever tried. Even better than my xt 4 pots on the focus and saints I had before that. The Bosch motor whilst not great on the road comes into it own once in the woods. Lots of power, control, and the over run works a treat popping you over big rocks and obstacles. Also in 15 miles and 2800ft or elevation it only used 40% battery and I was in turbo all the time on the roads.
Only used 75% of the suspension so have dropped some air pressure. Turns out the shock provided by canyon over reads by 20psi so back to recommended settings with my rock shox pump it feels much better. Was getting a bit of arm pump not being as plush as I’m used to. Back out again in the morning for more fun
Only used 75% of the suspension so have dropped some air pressure. Turns out the shock provided by canyon over reads by 20psi so back to recommended settings with my rock shox pump it feels much better. Was getting a bit of arm pump not being as plush as I’m used to. Back out again in the morning for more fun
Mario Antony
Active member
From MBR magazine
CANYON STRIVE:ON CFR
Canyon’s enduro e-bike’s designed for the heat of battle but will it win us over on the trails?
21 jun. 2023
£6,699 • 29/27.5in • canyon.com The entire range uses the same CFR carbon frame
What are the ingredients needed to make a bespoke enduro race e-bike? A Bosch motor for that fast, predictable response and powerful overrun to slingshot you out of tight corners and boost you through technical chess moves on timed climbed stages. An accessible battery compartment for those mandatory power pack changes. A tight, manoeuvrable, compliant chassis that carries speed and conserves energy, with the suspension kinematics tuned to provide ample grip rather than ultimate progression when landing big drops and moto jumps. Maybe even a little more ground clearance for those mid-stage sprints.
If those are the pieces of the puzzle then the finished jigsaw could well be the new Canyon Striven – a purposebuilt competition bike that happens to be rather good when the clock isn’t ticking. Which is handy, seeing as the proportion of people who race e-enduro at a top level is miniscule compared to the hordes of riders hacking around their local trails at the weekend just looking to have a blast with their mates.
Interestingly, the Striven doesn’t actually look much like the analogue version. The shock runs inline with the seatstays, anchored to the down tube at the forward eyelet, rather than sitting parallel to the seat tube as it does on the Strive. With far less room to work with between the top of the motor and the underside of the top tube, Canyon couldn’t have replicated the layout of the unassisted bike if it had wanted to. Also missing from the e-bike version is the Shapeshifter travel and geo system. With 600W and 85Nm of torque on tap from the Bosch motor, pedalling efficiency just isn’t that important on an e-bike, so Canyon could do away with the extra weight and complexity, freeing up space inside the front triangle for a water bottle in the process.
Nor is there the Strive’s adjustable sizing – where drop-in cups let you tune the reach. Instead, the Striven gets four sizes where the reach numbers are equivalent to the shortest settings on the analogue bike. It’s far from cramped, though. With 450mm reach on the size Small, 475mm on the Medium, 500mm on the Large and 525mm on the XL, it’s generous enough that I chose to downsize compared to the Spectraln.
At 170mm up front and 160mm at the rear, the Striven gets 10mm more travel than the Spectraln. It also gets a slacker head angle (63.5° versus 65.5°), 5mm longer chainstays to better balance the longer front centre, and a higher BB to compensate for the extra travel and need for more ground clearance when smuggling in pedal strokes. As the Striven has a longer fork, Canyon has shrunk the head tubes by 10mm, while the seat tubes are significantly lower – 20-25mm depending on the frame size. The final significant geometry difference is the seat tube angle, which is around 2° steeper at 78°. This is crucial for those technical climbing stages.
As a no-nonsense race machine, the entire Striven range uses the same CFR carbon frame, weighing a claimed 3.26kg in the size Medium. Where stronger fibres allow fewer layers to be used, reducing weight in the process.
The bulkier Bosch Performance CX housing prevents Canyon from clocking the motor as radically as it does with the Shimano EP8 unit on the Spectraln, but even so, the engineers have managed to house the battery entirely within the down tube, where it sits snugly against the base of the motor. The continuous down-tube profile retains its structural integrity, which reduces weight, and the position of the battery is kept low for a more desirable centre of gravity. But, remove the reinforced skid plate and you can extract the battery and slot in a freshy
The Striven would be at the top of my shortlist
Danny Milner · 21 jun. 2023
without moving the motor.
Better yet, you can choose to run the 750Wh Bosch unit for maximum range, or the 625Wh option and custom plastic spacer to save 700g and maximise agility. I was pleased to see that Canyon has opted for Bosch’s speed magnet mounted to the valve stem – this gets picked up by a sensor in the back of the motor – which eliminates the need for wiring along the chainstay. And even happier to see Bosch’s top tube System Controller and wireless Mini Remote attached to the bars. It’s a clean and simple set-up, but by connecting to the Bosch Flow app you can still customise settings and dig into performance metrics.
As this is a focused product, only available in carbon, Canyon is offering
the Striven in just three different flavours. All three models come standard with the 625Wh battery, but you can upgrade to the 750Wh unit for an extra £200. While all three bikes are great value for money, my pick of the range has to be the Underdog model at £5,499, as you can swap out the fork damper for a GRIP2 and upgrade to the bigger battery for just over £6k.
HOW IT RIDES
With my Medium demo bike set up with 28% sag, bouncing around the car park revealed that it was very easy to bottom out the rear suspension. This is not your typical Canyon, I thought, followed up with a concern that it would be too linear once I’d hit the trails. We would be riding the tracks at Scarlino, near Punta Ala, where Fabien Barel won the first ever round of the EWS 10 years ago. And seeing as Fabien himself was one of the key development riders involved in the birth of the Striven, and he’d recommended that sag figure, he should know what he’s talking about. Even so, I added a couple of extra strokes with the shock pump, just to be on the safe side.
Digging deeper into the suspension graphs and talking to the engineers involved, the reason for this un-canyonlike trait became clearer. The Striven has a progression rate that’s 5% lower than the analogue Strive because, in testing, team riders were struggling to use all the travel, effectively rendering it redundant. Remember enduro race tracks don’t generally feature the kind of big hucks and harsh landings found in DH or freeride. So Canyon decided to taper off the progression and make those last few millimetres of travel more accessible. It’s a shrewd move, and sure enough, my fears of blowing through the travel in the blink of an eye proved unfounded once we hit the trails. Instead there was plenty of mid-stroke support, but less fatigue through really rough, deep canyons and rock gardens. If you want a bit more pop and a bike that can handle bike park jumps and drops, you can have that too – just adding a single volume spacer to the shock will make the Striven slightly more progressive than its analogue cousin. For my home trails, which are nothing like as rough as the Finale-style tracks at Punta Ala, this is exactly what I’d do.
While some race bikes can be too focused to be fun, the Striven is as rewarding to ride outside the tape as inside it. There’s loads of straight-line stability from the low centre of gravity and slack head angle, but it’s paired with a willingness to change direction and an accuracy when hunting for lines that comes from the low standover, mullet rear wheel and well-balanced chainstay length. In fact I found the assisted Strive had much better balance than the analogue version, as the front and rear centres are less extreme in either direction. Thus, weighting the front in flatter corners comes naturally (obviously the battery weight helps as well), but the rear wheel doesn’t feel too tucked up beneath you when you get tired and start backing away from the bike.
It also trades a little agility for versatility compared to the Spectraln, with more ground clearance and reduced stack that keeps the bars from feeling too tall. It’s not quite as playful as the Spectraln owing to the reduced progression and longer chainstays, but the geometry feels more forgiving and confidence-inspiring on rougher tracks and steeper gradients, and the progression can always be added back in if you want to.
That steep seat angle allowed me to take full advantage of the power and response of the Bosch motor to solve really janky uphill puzzles, so the Striven can winch as well as it can plummet. Once again, here it trumps the Spectraln thanks to its extra ground clearance and Bosch’s predictable overrun.
A single day’s riding is not enough to pass a definitive verdict on a new bike – you need to try it on home turf, back-to-back with the best of the competition – even if that day included 50km and 2,200m of descending on Ews-level trails. Putting that caveat aside, if I was in the market for an e-bike right now, and my budget was in the £56k bracket, the new Striven would be right at the top of my shortlist.
CANYON STRIVE:ON CFR
Canyon’s enduro e-bike’s designed for the heat of battle but will it win us over on the trails?
21 jun. 2023
£6,699 • 29/27.5in • canyon.com The entire range uses the same CFR carbon frame
What are the ingredients needed to make a bespoke enduro race e-bike? A Bosch motor for that fast, predictable response and powerful overrun to slingshot you out of tight corners and boost you through technical chess moves on timed climbed stages. An accessible battery compartment for those mandatory power pack changes. A tight, manoeuvrable, compliant chassis that carries speed and conserves energy, with the suspension kinematics tuned to provide ample grip rather than ultimate progression when landing big drops and moto jumps. Maybe even a little more ground clearance for those mid-stage sprints.
If those are the pieces of the puzzle then the finished jigsaw could well be the new Canyon Strive
n – a purposebuilt competition bike that happens to be rather good when the clock isn’t ticking. Which is handy, seeing as the proportion of people who race e-enduro at a top level is miniscule compared to the hordes of riders hacking around their local trails at the weekend just looking to have a blast with their mates.Interestingly, the Strive
n doesn’t actually look much like the analogue version. The shock runs inline with the seatstays, anchored to the down tube at the forward eyelet, rather than sitting parallel to the seat tube as it does on the Strive. With far less room to work with between the top of the motor and the underside of the top tube, Canyon couldn’t have replicated the layout of the unassisted bike if it had wanted to. Also missing from the e-bike version is the Shapeshifter travel and geo system. With 600W and 85Nm of torque on tap from the Bosch motor, pedalling efficiency just isn’t that important on an e-bike, so Canyon could do away with the extra weight and complexity, freeing up space inside the front triangle for a water bottle in the process.Nor is there the Strive’s adjustable sizing – where drop-in cups let you tune the reach. Instead, the Strive
n gets four sizes where the reach numbers are equivalent to the shortest settings on the analogue bike. It’s far from cramped, though. With 450mm reach on the size Small, 475mm on the Medium, 500mm on the Large and 525mm on the XL, it’s generous enough that I chose to downsize compared to the Spectraln.At 170mm up front and 160mm at the rear, the Strive
n gets 10mm more travel than the Spectraln. It also gets a slacker head angle (63.5° versus 65.5°), 5mm longer chainstays to better balance the longer front centre, and a higher BB to compensate for the extra travel and need for more ground clearance when smuggling in pedal strokes. As the Striven has a longer fork, Canyon has shrunk the head tubes by 10mm, while the seat tubes are significantly lower – 20-25mm depending on the frame size. The final significant geometry difference is the seat tube angle, which is around 2° steeper at 78°. This is crucial for those technical climbing stages.As a no-nonsense race machine, the entire Strive
n range uses the same CFR carbon frame, weighing a claimed 3.26kg in the size Medium. Where stronger fibres allow fewer layers to be used, reducing weight in the process.The bulkier Bosch Performance CX housing prevents Canyon from clocking the motor as radically as it does with the Shimano EP8 unit on the Spectral
n, but even so, the engineers have managed to house the battery entirely within the down tube, where it sits snugly against the base of the motor. The continuous down-tube profile retains its structural integrity, which reduces weight, and the position of the battery is kept low for a more desirable centre of gravity. But, remove the reinforced skid plate and you can extract the battery and slot in a freshyThe Strive
n would be at the top of my shortlistDanny Milner · 21 jun. 2023
without moving the motor.
Better yet, you can choose to run the 750Wh Bosch unit for maximum range, or the 625Wh option and custom plastic spacer to save 700g and maximise agility. I was pleased to see that Canyon has opted for Bosch’s speed magnet mounted to the valve stem – this gets picked up by a sensor in the back of the motor – which eliminates the need for wiring along the chainstay. And even happier to see Bosch’s top tube System Controller and wireless Mini Remote attached to the bars. It’s a clean and simple set-up, but by connecting to the Bosch Flow app you can still customise settings and dig into performance metrics.
As this is a focused product, only available in carbon, Canyon is offering
the Strive
n in just three different flavours. All three models come standard with the 625Wh battery, but you can upgrade to the 750Wh unit for an extra £200. While all three bikes are great value for money, my pick of the range has to be the Underdog model at £5,499, as you can swap out the fork damper for a GRIP2 and upgrade to the bigger battery for just over £6k.HOW IT RIDES
With my Medium demo bike set up with 28% sag, bouncing around the car park revealed that it was very easy to bottom out the rear suspension. This is not your typical Canyon, I thought, followed up with a concern that it would be too linear once I’d hit the trails. We would be riding the tracks at Scarlino, near Punta Ala, where Fabien Barel won the first ever round of the EWS 10 years ago. And seeing as Fabien himself was one of the key development riders involved in the birth of the Strive
n, and he’d recommended that sag figure, he should know what he’s talking about. Even so, I added a couple of extra strokes with the shock pump, just to be on the safe side.Digging deeper into the suspension graphs and talking to the engineers involved, the reason for this un-canyonlike trait became clearer. The Strive
n has a progression rate that’s 5% lower than the analogue Strive because, in testing, team riders were struggling to use all the travel, effectively rendering it redundant. Remember enduro race tracks don’t generally feature the kind of big hucks and harsh landings found in DH or freeride. So Canyon decided to taper off the progression and make those last few millimetres of travel more accessible. It’s a shrewd move, and sure enough, my fears of blowing through the travel in the blink of an eye proved unfounded once we hit the trails. Instead there was plenty of mid-stroke support, but less fatigue through really rough, deep canyons and rock gardens. If you want a bit more pop and a bike that can handle bike park jumps and drops, you can have that too – just adding a single volume spacer to the shock will make the Striven slightly more progressive than its analogue cousin. For my home trails, which are nothing like as rough as the Finale-style tracks at Punta Ala, this is exactly what I’d do.While some race bikes can be too focused to be fun, the Strive
n is as rewarding to ride outside the tape as inside it. There’s loads of straight-line stability from the low centre of gravity and slack head angle, but it’s paired with a willingness to change direction and an accuracy when hunting for lines that comes from the low standover, mullet rear wheel and well-balanced chainstay length. In fact I found the assisted Strive had much better balance than the analogue version, as the front and rear centres are less extreme in either direction. Thus, weighting the front in flatter corners comes naturally (obviously the battery weight helps as well), but the rear wheel doesn’t feel too tucked up beneath you when you get tired and start backing away from the bike.It also trades a little agility for versatility compared to the Spectral
n, with more ground clearance and reduced stack that keeps the bars from feeling too tall. It’s not quite as playful as the Spectraln owing to the reduced progression and longer chainstays, but the geometry feels more forgiving and confidence-inspiring on rougher tracks and steeper gradients, and the progression can always be added back in if you want to.That steep seat angle allowed me to take full advantage of the power and response of the Bosch motor to solve really janky uphill puzzles, so the Strive
n can winch as well as it can plummet. Once again, here it trumps the Spectraln thanks to its extra ground clearance and Bosch’s predictable overrun.A single day’s riding is not enough to pass a definitive verdict on a new bike – you need to try it on home turf, back-to-back with the best of the competition – even if that day included 50km and 2,200m of descending on Ews-level trails. Putting that caveat aside, if I was in the market for an e-bike right now, and my budget was in the £56k bracket, the new Strive
n would be right at the top of my shortlist.
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hubertsk
Member
Has anyone else had problems with the battery cutting off and the whole system shutting down?
For me, it started two days ago, and yesterday it just kept switching off.
Sometimes it would turn on for a brief moment and then die after that.
On other occasions, it doesn't even power up and shuts down immediately.
Canyon Strive:ON CFR battery cutting off while riding on minor bumps
Canyon Strive:ON CFR battery cutting off when stationary
For me, it started two days ago, and yesterday it just kept switching off.
Sometimes it would turn on for a brief moment and then die after that.
On other occasions, it doesn't even power up and shuts down immediately.
Canyon Strive:ON CFR battery cutting off while riding on minor bumps
Canyon Strive:ON CFR battery cutting off when stationary
Nothing as bad as your videos, last night on my first proper ride I had 2 instances where I was in Turbo mode on a very long steep hill and the power reduced for less than a second then came straight back on. My thought was overheating. I would say yours looks more like a bad connection or something more serious I'm afraid.
My rear thru axle is also completely seized presumably through over tightening at the factory (I've only had a 2 days) but that's a different issue...
Jagger
Member
Has anyone received their bike before the estimated delivery dates?
My CFR size small is estimated 21st Aug - 01st Sep 2023. I was hoping for a little earlier than that.
My CFR size small is estimated 21st Aug - 01st Sep 2023. I was hoping for a little earlier than that.
hubertsk
Member
Mine started the same way, with brief cut-offs for a split second, and now it would turn off completely while riding.
In the beginning, it was noticeable only in turbo mode.
Mine did it,third ride in,after about 100m,so I removed the battery then set off again,same thing happened, so I removed the battery again & when I reconnected it I realised that I wasn't fully pushing the latch as far as it would go,so as soon as I rode off the battery was moving & disconnecting, once I figured that out & made sure the latch was fully seated I haven't had any more problems.
hubertsk
Member
Yeah, I did it twice, but no luck. Do you have a photo of the latch and how far you can push it?
Winryn
Active member
Assume you’re unwinding from the correct side? There is what looks like an axle on both sides but the actual axle is on the brake caliper side. The other side tightens anti clockwise so trying to undo actually tightens
Side to unwind
Not this one
Winryn
Active member
A few more observations from a loop of the monkey and follow the dog at Cannock.
It’s fun everywhere, agile and super capable. Rolls over the rock gardens much better than my old 27.5 plus front wheel. Also I feels so much more confident on drop offs and anything steep and technical
I’m now sold on the motor. 15 miles in Emtb mode and had 60% battery remaining. Power when you need it, control when needed and the over run feature to push over obstacles is great. I’d pay almost any amount to have it set to USA speed limit however. That few mph makes such a difference
Suspension now dialled in and pressure reduced on front tyre and it feels very plush.
Tyres are excellent. The double defence tyre on the back gives me much more confidence I’m not going to rip it open like I normally do at llandegla.
Bars perhaps a bit too wide for me. Clipped a couple of trees so may reduce a small amount.
I’ve had to move the mode controller inwards as I keep knocking it and changing modes whilst riding
I basically have one challenge with it at the moment. Pedal strikes, I must have had 10 today. Literally can’t pedal with any lean on on the trails. My plan as I was riding was assuming it had 175mm cranks and I’d swap for 160. However they are already 165mm so not sure it will make any difference. Going to have to learn to ride differently
But it’s an absolute beast and I’m sure I’m going to have many happy years on it.
Wrekin yesterday
Chase today
It’s fun everywhere, agile and super capable. Rolls over the rock gardens much better than my old 27.5 plus front wheel. Also I feels so much more confident on drop offs and anything steep and technical
I’m now sold on the motor. 15 miles in Emtb mode and had 60% battery remaining. Power when you need it, control when needed and the over run feature to push over obstacles is great. I’d pay almost any amount to have it set to USA speed limit however. That few mph makes such a difference
Suspension now dialled in and pressure reduced on front tyre and it feels very plush.
Tyres are excellent. The double defence tyre on the back gives me much more confidence I’m not going to rip it open like I normally do at llandegla.
Bars perhaps a bit too wide for me. Clipped a couple of trees so may reduce a small amount.
I’ve had to move the mode controller inwards as I keep knocking it and changing modes whilst riding
I basically have one challenge with it at the moment. Pedal strikes, I must have had 10 today. Literally can’t pedal with any lean on on the trails. My plan as I was riding was assuming it had 175mm cranks and I’d swap for 160. However they are already 165mm so not sure it will make any difference. Going to have to learn to ride differently
But it’s an absolute beast and I’m sure I’m going to have many happy years on it.
Wrekin yesterday
Chase today
I worked this out last night disassembling my bike to have the damage repaired.
The mech side just undoes the UDH and the wheel needs to be removed to undo it.
The other side is the axle and uses the same size Allen key as the front axle.
Jackwithoneye
Member
Hi there,
1 week with my StriveOn, happy as a kid, even if it's my first emtb. I'm not yet 100% used to the weight, but i enjoy it a lot (especially on climbs)
It's been a pleasure to read the 20 previous pages of this topic, thanks to you all, very informative, i wish i'd have find this place a month ago
Still working on dial the Fork and shock to my taste, and about to go tubeless (waiting for valves, cushcore, sealant,...)
I used ridewrap taylored for the protection. After the second ride, in a tight single, some branches ripped on tube of the rear triangle (base) and made 3 holes in the wrap. I know it's not a heavy duty protection, but i expected more. I'll put some 1.2mm heavy protection film on exposed parts, i'm a little stressed as it's my first carbon frame...
I'd really like to find a good protection for the down tube, that would fit the entire low base and side of this down tube. (seen rob's one on a previous page, but still, i'd like it bigger), for now, i'll wrap this tube in this ugly thick film, over the ridewrap to prevent consequences from crashs in the bike park this summer.
I've seen that the strive on is coil-shock compatible. Does a TTX22m.2 would fit?
1 week with my StriveOn, happy as a kid, even if it's my first emtb. I'm not yet 100% used to the weight, but i enjoy it a lot (especially on climbs
)It's been a pleasure to read the 20 previous pages of this topic, thanks to you all, very informative, i wish i'd have find this place a month ago
Still working on dial the Fork and shock to my taste, and about to go tubeless (waiting for valves, cushcore, sealant,...)
I used ridewrap taylored for the protection. After the second ride, in a tight single, some branches ripped on tube of the rear triangle (base) and made 3 holes in the wrap. I know it's not a heavy duty protection, but i expected more. I'll put some 1.2mm heavy protection film on exposed parts, i'm a little stressed as it's my first carbon frame...
I'd really like to find a good protection for the down tube, that would fit the entire low base and side of this down tube. (seen rob's one on a previous page, but still, i'd like it bigger), for now, i'll wrap this tube in this ugly thick film, over the ridewrap to prevent consequences from crashs in the bike park this summer.
I've seen that the strive on is coil-shock compatible. Does a TTX22m.2 would fit?
I had this quite a lot last night as well. As you said, bit of a lean in rough terrain and it hits. Overall like you though, very impressed generally.
Have you fitted tyre inserts before? I put Tannus Armour in my previous bike and nearly killed myself getting them both in. Not sure I'll bother this time - I'd never be able to put an inner tube inside if I had a puncture, it'd be too fiddly to do on a trail.Hi there,
1 week with my StriveOn, happy as a kid, even if it's my first emtb. I'm not yet 100% used to the weight, but i enjoy it a lot (especially on climbs
It's been a pleasure to read the 20 previous pages of this topic, thanks to you all, very informative, i wish i'd have find this place a month ago
Still working on dial the Fork and shock to my taste, and about to go tubeless (waiting for valves, cushcore, sealant,...)
I used ridewrap taylored for the protection. After the second ride, in a tight single, some branches ripped on tube of the rear triangle (base) and made 3 holes in the wrap. I know it's not a heavy duty protection, but i expected more. I'll put some 1.2mm heavy protection film on exposed parts, i'm a little stressed as it's my first carbon frame...
I'd really like to find a good protection for the down tube, that would fit the entire low base and side of this down tube. (seen rob's one on a previous page, but still, i'd like it bigger), for now, i'll wrap this tube in this ugly thick film, over the ridewrap to prevent consequences from crashs in the bike park this summer.
I've seen that the strive on is coil-shock compatible. Does a TTX22m.2 would fit?
That said, I worry about not having the protection. I heard Cushcore was harder than the Tannus as well.
CrispyDesigns
Active member
Good to hear some feedback and impressions of the bike ridden on trails I know well. I experienced a lot of pedal strikes on my Orbea Rise. A touch more air and an extra click of rebound quickens the rear up a little and the strikes lessened. I also swapped to Burgtec pedals. Very low profile. This took the strikes down again
Jackwithoneye
Member
i've never fitted an insert, i watched every single installation video/tutorial on internet, i'm the wikipedia of the cushcore installation....i know it could be hard to fit, especially cushcore...but i'm up for the challenge (i might change my mind after a full weekend failing to do it).
If it could save the rim from a bad shot in the park, i want to try. (rear tire only)
I've got a mesh repair kit in case of puncture on trail, hopefully it will do the job
edit: btw, as others i experienced a lot of pedal strikes, but in my case, i think it comes with the shock not well dialed.
Remember when you add air pressure in the X2, keep the pump plugged, and slowly compress the shock on 30%(approx.) of the travel ten times, pressing on the saddle, to let the pressures equalize in the shock. Then check/adjust air pressure with the pump. Repeat until it's at the right pressure.
First ride, i set my shock at 200Psi before the first ride, it was 130 at the end of the ride...
Same, If you set your sag with your weight.
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Winryn
Active member
Yea I might try a touch more air and a bit more rebound
hubertsk
Member
I have fitted the Tubolight EVO HD inserts to mine, and they work great!
Installing was extremely easy — way easier than fitting PTN inserts to my gravel bike
I did one modification, though, and I added some holes to the insert so that the below-insert and above-insert chambers could equalize the air pressure. My reasoning was that on the other bikes where I installed inserts, there was always a problem with adding air or sealant as it needed to be pushed from below the insert to the main chamber. I saw some manufacturers are adding those holes so I did something similar to Tubolights.
Report back once you've tried installing it! I predict some swearing! (I also watched a bunch of videos on installation!)i've never fitted an insert, i watched every single installation video/tutorial on internet, i'm the wikipedia of the cushcore installation....i know it could be hard to fit, especially cushcore...but i'm up for the challenge (i might change my mind after a full weekend failing to do it).
If it could save the rim from a bad shot in the park, i want to try. (rear tire only)
I've got a mesh repair kit in case of puncture on trail, hopefully it will do the job
edit: btw, as others i experienced a lot of pedal strikes, but in my case, i think it comes with the shock not well dialed.
Remember when you add air pressure in the X2, keep the pump plugged, and slowly compress the shock on 30%(approx.) of the travel ten times, pressing on the saddle, to let the pressures equalize in the shock. Then check/adjust air pressure with the pump. Repeat until it's at the right pressure.
First ride, i set my shock at 200Psi before the first ride, it was 130 at the end of the ride...
Same, If you set your sag with your weight.
The hard bit is getting the final bead back onto the rim with the insert inside.
Good luck!
How easy was it to get the tyre back on the rim with them inside? That's always the tricky bit. Even with the Tannus Armour inserts I had.I have fitted the Tubolight EVO HD inserts to mine, and they work great!
Installing was extremely easy — way easier than fitting PTN inserts to my gravel bike
I did one modification, though, and I added some holes to the insert so that the below-insert and above-insert chambers could equalize the air pressure. My reasoning was that on the other bikes where I installed inserts, there was always a problem with adding air or sealant as it needed to be pushed from below the insert to the main chamber. I saw some manufacturers are adding those holes so I did something similar to Tubolights.
View attachment 118648
View attachment 118649
Myalteregohamish
Active member
I just purchased a torqueWent out again yesterday, didn't start well,after about a minute of the 1st run i got a slash in the side wall of the rear tyre,instant flat,wouldn't seal,so had to put a tube in,but these things happen,there is a lot of flint type rock around on certain runs at my local.
Rest of the ride was great, bike is great to ride,very planted downhill,definitely inspires confidence, the Zeb & the Super deluxe Rct2 are very plush they feel a lot more supple than my fox set up on the Bronson, although newness will have a little effect on that.
All in all super happy that I decided on this bike it really is a superb machine.
It has developed an annoying carbon creak that I'll need to chase down,but that's often the case with carbon bikes.
I'm off to Chatel with the Bronson early July, so might leave it with my lbs that week to find the creak
n. The creaking started a couple rides after receiving mine it was the motor mount bolts. Highly recommend putting locktite blue on the bolts.
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