Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[keeganxt]

Has anyone purchased the AXS T-Type build? I note Trek are putting the XSYNC 2 chainrings on these bikes, but they are not compatible with the Transmission system...

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View attachment 127200

Found this …

NSMB.com - SRAM Eagle T-Type drivetrain and Code Stealth Brakes

Imagine this derailleur: no hanger / no adjustment screws / attaches to your rear axle / is strong enough to stand on without being damaged / that shifts better under higher loads...

nsmb.com

 

[keeganxt]

I’m guessing there isn’t too much difference. Even if x-sync2 chainrings say they aren’t compatible with t-type, t-type chain rings do appear to be compatible with eagle.

SRAM Eagle T-Type Chainring - 34t, 12-Speed, 104 BCD, Steel, Black

Eagle T-Type 104BCD Chainring - Designed for use with a 104 BCD interface of any 104 BCD spider, This chainring utilizes SRAM's T-TYPE design and is backwards compatible with Eagle technology (X-SYNC II). SRAM drivetrain engineers optimized this ring to combat the high-torque, high-wear...

www.worldwidecyclery.com

 

[Colin46]

I’m guessing there isn’t too much difference. Even if x-sync2 chainrings say they aren’t compatible with t-type, t-type chain rings do appear to be compatible with eagle.

SRAM Eagle T-Type Chainring - 34t, 12-Speed, 104 BCD, Steel, Black

Eagle T-Type 104BCD Chainring - Designed for use with a 104 BCD interface of any 104 BCD spider, This chainring utilizes SRAM's T-TYPE design and is backwards compatible with Eagle technology (X-SYNC II). SRAM drivetrain engineers optimized this ring to combat the high-torque, high-wear...

www.worldwidecyclery.com

I’m upgraded my new 9.9 Axs to xx t -type and am using the standard 32t x-sync 2 chainring and it works perfectly.

i have a wolftooth t type compatible chainring to put on but haven’t bothered yet.

 

[Cell4soul]

Is anyone running the GX AXS T-Type transmission? If so, how do you like it? Will it work with my current 5Dev cranks? If it doesn’t work, it is deal breaker. I appreciate any feedback.

 

[keeganxt]

I think it’ll come down to chain line as either normal eagle xsync 2 or t-type chainrings work with the rest of the eagle transmission group. Chain line is 55mm so you’d need to find a crank and appropriate spacing to accommodate.

 

[Dave_B]

From what I have discussed with my local shop, the FSA spider takes care of the offset, the chainring Trek are using is the r normal x-sync 2 104 BCD which has zero offset.

 

[keeganxt]

Yep, didn’t realize the chain line already is 55mm so you should be able to just get a zero offset chainring, as mentioned.

 

[Mcanical]

Hi all, been a lurker and somewhat infrequent poster on this thread. Just an update on my story regarding my motor.

Trek warranty'd my 1st motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance scenarios. The motor also had a significant under-reading of rider input watts, and that is compared to 2 other bikes.

My 2nd motor: AGAIN they are warranty-ing the motor due to significant drag in low power and no assistance modes. It is as if the motor has increased drag when the chain is loaded with tension on steep climbs. The drag increases almost to a point where you can't pedal the bike without assistance when you climb up steep climbs. The drag is worse when the motor is hot. The motor is a joy in MID and HIGH modes, but almost unride-able in steeper terrain in less than 100w assistance scenarios.

When you pedal along a flat paved road the drag is almost unnoticeable. In a stand, turning the pedals feels like a normal bike. I am thinking there might be some design flaw, or I was unlucky to get 2 bad motors out of early batches.

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

TQ hasn't released a software update since early March, and they use to be very frequent. Some guys have reported delays in motor manufacturing, so maybe they are working on a hardware update.

Maybe my 3rd motor would be drag-free adn only have the 2-3 watts of drag as advertised by TQ.

Anyone else have drag in steeper terrain when they turn the assistance off?

I’ve also warrantied two motors due to the motor drag issue. Waiting to get number 3 installed. It ran fine for the first 10 rides and then started to act up. I’ve also overheated the motor on steep climbs which probably triggered the issue.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I also get less range in ECO mode than in MID mode. For example, after a 15min steep climb, with battery at 70% I get the following from my bike:

ECO: 61%, 108W max, Range: 2h39min
MID: 100%, 231W max, Range: 2h52min
HIGH: 170%, 300W max, Range: 1h28min

How is that even possible?

That is very possible. There’s a sweet spot when it comes to range. And it also depends on how much power you put in. Which means as a rider, you also have a sweet spot, as far as power and range go. You have to remember that when you’re in a higher mode and you’re putting in the same amount of power as when in a lower mode, you are covering ground quicker, you are going farther. I finally realized that if I really get after it, I can cover as much ground in a higher mode. Which makes riding more fun. I made a post kind of about that a little ways back. My goal is to always, on the average, put in more power than the motor. You can track that in the app.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Yee haw! Look what Fox delivered today. Two boxes of smooth! With the X2 in the back and the Marzocchi coil kit in the Fox 36 up front, my Trek EXe will be as smooth as Barry White, Yo!

 

[wizard604]

Yee haw! Look what Fox delivered today. Two boxes of smooth! With the X2 in the back and the Marzocchi coil kit in the Fox 36 up front, my Trek EXe will be as smooth as Barry White, Yo!

View attachment 127511

You're going love it... buttery smooth and better mid stroke support than air.. Foxzocchi for the win

 

[Canyon Shawn]

You're going love it... buttery smooth and better mid stroke support than air.. Foxzocchi for the win

View attachment 127519

Oh nice! Did you have to make a rebound and compression adjuster change?

 

[wizard604]

Oh nice! Did you have to make a rebound and compression adjuster change?

Used the Marzocchi recommended rebound settings for my coil rate and seems perfect... Compression wide open which what I usually run being light weight. My sag is about 17% with about 1/2 turn preload just enough to take up any play with the spring.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Used the Marzocchi recommended rebound settings for my coil rate and seems perfect... Compression wide open which what I usually run being light weight. My sag is about 17% with about 1/2 turn preload just enough to take up any play with the spring.

Got it, thanks. I’m 180 pounds ready to ride. I ordered the green spring. I figured that would be best with the heavier Ebike. We’ll see how it goes.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Crank Defender crank boots. They fit the 9.7 E13 cranks with a little tap of a screwdriver handle.

 

[pat1032]

When servicing your guys bike headset, do you guys usually remove the the front brake caliper or just work around it and let it hang with the fork?

 

[DBSwiss]

When servicing your guys bike headset, do you guys usually remove the the front brake caliper or just work around it and let it hang with the fork?

I put the bike in the stand and position the height so the the fork rests on a rug on the floor when out of the headset without putting much Weight on the cables.

 

[Scarboroguy]

I put the bike in the stand and position the height so the the fork rests on a rug on the floor when out of the headset without putting much Weight on the cables.

That's brilliant.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Oh, hell yeah, again! The Marzocchi coil kit for my Fox Rhythm 36 has done the same for my front as the X2 did for the rear. Anytime I make a big change to my bike, I take it on the same, about 17 mile ride with some good flowy up and down single track with a couple technical steep climbs. Nothing super difficult, but challenging enough to give me a good feel for the changes I’ve made. And, I know this trial like the back of my hand. The coil kit definitely allows me to keep up more speed with better traction everywhere. I didn’t feel any increased weight. I think because it lets you keep your speed up easier. It’s really amazing. I’m 180 pounds ready to ride and I’m running it at 160mm with zero preload and the compression dial wide open. I’m getting 20% sag. Which is ok with me. I’ve never been able to get 25% or 30% sag on an air fork, unless I was running insanely low pressure. I set rebound at the recommend setting for my green firm spring and weight. That’s 5-7 turns out. So, I set it at 6 turns out. I didn’t feel that the front end was any higher. I think it just settles in a little more than the air setup. But, mid stroke support felt good. I really noticed an improvement when climbing short climbs, where you’re trying to keep your speed up to get over it, to a flat section or downhill section. It just allows you to keep that speed up easier, so I’m shifting less. Longer steep technical climbs were no harder and I didn’t notice any difference here. Going down chunky downhill sections, it gives me more control and I can just relax my arms more. I feel more comfortable turning and just letting that front wheel hang out to the outside a little more. I hit an embedded basketball sized rock at just over 20 mph. I know I was going at least 20, because I was in high mode and I wasn’t getting any motor power anymore. Before I hit it, I said to myself, “oh, that’s going to be a hard hit. But, I didn’t feel anything. It felt like my front tire was half flat, but no jolt or shock to my arms at all. I used all but 10mm of the travel on this ride. Which is ok with me. It was a shorter ride and I didn’t go down the steeper, faster and chunkier downhills that I usually ride on. And, I didn’t get anything over a foot off the ground. I did use more travel than I usually use on that ride with the air setup. So, I feel 100% confident that it’s not to progressive. And to my surprise, my air setup had three purple tokens in it. I’ve included a picture of that. I did feel some bob under hard, out of the saddle mashing. So, I’m going to slow the rebound one click and run the compression knob to 1:00 instead of fully open, which is about 10:00. With the air setup, I used to run that at 3:00. I noticed with the coil kit, the compression adjuster has a lot more adjustability. Full closed is almost locked out now. With the air setup it wouldn't come close to locked out. My guy did a complete service when he put the coil kit in. So, I don’t know if it’s because of that or if the coil kit causes that. While writing this I was thinking that, I usually get one or two tire pings on my ride. I didn’t get any today. I just went out and checked and both tires were 5 psi higher than what I usually run. I topped them off at the shop. But, their dial gauge must be way off. So, I think on tomorrow’s ride, it’ll feel even better. So, I have to say that the Marzocchi coil kit and the X2 shock is a very good combination. Both ends are just like melted butter now. Even my installation guy commented that both ends just feel very balanced. I’m very happy with this setup. The only drawback is now more than ever, I’m up to the 20 mph where the motor cuts out and I feel like I can go faster if I had the motor working. That’s not that bad of a negative though. I can live with that.

 

[wizard604]

Oh, hell yeah, again! The Marzocchi coil kit for my Fox Rhythm 36 has done the same for my front as the X2 did for the rear. Anytime I make a big change to my bike, I take it on the same, about 17 mile ride with some good flowy up and down single track with a couple technical steep climbs. Nothing super difficult, but challenging enough to give me a good feel for the changes I’ve made. And, I know this trial like the back of my hand. The coil kit definitely allows me to keep up more speed with better traction everywhere. I didn’t feel any increased weight. I think because it lets you keep your speed up easier. It’s really amazing. I’m 180 pounds ready to ride and I’m running it at 160mm with zero preload and the compression dial wide open. I’m getting 20% sag. Which is ok with me. I’ve never been able to get 25% or 30% sag on an air fork, unless I was running insanely low pressure. I set rebound at the recommend setting for my green firm spring and weight. That’s 5-7 turns out. So, I set it at 6 turns out. I didn’t feel that the front end was any higher. I think it just settles in a little more than the air setup. But, mid stroke support felt good. I really noticed an improvement when climbing short climbs, where you’re trying to keep your speed up to get over it, to a flat section or downhill section. It just allows you to keep that speed up easier, so I’m shifting less. Longer steep technical climbs were no harder and I didn’t notice any difference here. Going down chunky downhill sections, it gives me more control and I can just relax my arms more. I feel more comfortable turning and just letting that front wheel hang out to the outside a little more. I hit an embedded basketball sized rock at just over 20 mph. I know I was going at least 20, because I was in high mode and I wasn’t getting any motor power anymore. Before I hit it, I said to myself, “oh, that’s going to be a hard hit. But, I didn’t feel anything. It felt like my front tire was half flat, but no jolt or shock to my arms at all. I used all but 10mm of the travel on this ride. Which is ok with me. It was a shorter ride and I didn’t go down the steeper, faster and chunkier downhills that I usually ride on. And, I didn’t get anything over a foot off the ground. I did use more travel than I usually use on that ride with the air setup. So, I feel 100% confident that it’s not to progressive. And to my surprise, my air setup had three purple tokens in it. I’ve included a picture of that. I did feel some bob under hard, out of the saddle mashing. So, I’m going to slow the rebound one click and run the compression knob to 1:00 instead of fully open, which is about 10:00. With the air setup, I used to run that at 3:00. I noticed with the coil kit, the compression adjuster has a lot more adjustability. Full closed is almost locked out now. With the air setup it wouldn't come close to locked out. My guy did a complete service when he put the coil kit in. So, I don’t know if it’s because of that or if the coil kit causes that. While writing this I was thinking that, I usually get one or two tire pings on my ride. I didn’t get any today. I just went out and checked and both tires were 5 psi higher than what I usually run. I topped them off at the shop. But, their dial gauge must be way off. So, I think on tomorrow’s ride, it’ll feel even better. So, I have to say that the Marzocchi coil kit and the X2 shock is a very good combination. Both ends are just like melted butter now. Even my installation guy commented that both ends just feel very balanced. I’m very happy with this setup. The only drawback is now more than ever, I’m up to the 20 mph where the motor cuts out and I feel like I can go faster if I had the motor working. That’s not that bad of a negative though. I can live with that.

View attachment 127886

View attachment 127887

That's awesome to hear that you're liking the changes. I'm so sold on feel of the coil fork that I'm running it on all of my bikes. 2 marz coil kits and 1 smashpot. Also I find the mid stroke support is way better than air which is really noticeable on the steep jank

 

[Dave_B]

No issues with clearance. It is VERY close though. I can only say that I am confident it fits a large size frame.

The biggest thing for me has been getting anywhere near full travel. So far, the Vivid is working better. I was very happy with the Float X on my Ripley and Ripmos. The large air spring of the vivid is helping with getting more travel. I installed a shock wiz over the weekend and am on my first round of tuning. Removed the 1 stock volume reducer, increase air pressure, less rebound and less LSC. I made all those changes and will ride tomorrow morning.

Because I could, I installed the compression adjuster on the stock Float X. In the process, I discovered that it was set to -4 of 10 from the factory. That could be why I was not getting full travel. Too much compression damping. Once the Vivid is Dialed, I may through the Float X back on and see if that was the case.

Where exactly is the shock close to the the frame? Is it the reservoir close to the downtube on full compression of is it close to the range extender?

 

[Mehotdrone8]

Hello Everyone!

I am just about to buy a 9.5. There is a nice discount in france (MSRP is 6000€, found it at 5000€).

At first, i was just looking at the bike, but planning to buy a non electric bike (the new scor 2030 which is exactly 5000€). When i saw that discount, i thought that i can have a playful bike with a little engine to help me climb up quicker and freshr.

I read several pages of this topic, and i see you guys have several problems with the bike.

So my question is, is this bike worth it?

 

[Scarboroguy]

Hello Everyone!

I am just about to buy a 9.5. There is a nice discount in france (MSRP is 6000€, found it at 5000€).

At first, i was just looking at the bike, but planning to buy a non electric bike (the new scor 2030 which is exactly 5000€). When i saw that discount, i thought that i can have a playful bike with a little engine to help me climb up quicker and freshr.

I read several pages of this topic, and i see you guys have several problems with the bike.

So my question is, is this bike worth it?

Best decision you ever made. Same price as a trail bike but with the assist and still get your workout.. I did the same on discount. Don't buy in to the I got to upgrade this and that. Bike is awesome as is.
Torque wrench is your friend as with any E-Bike. Any creaking that develops is probably the motor bolts, torque to 20 NMs your good to go. I had to do it once and solved my issue. Congrats.

 

[Dave_B]

I’ve stripped the threads on the E13 cranks, the threads that the crank remover threads onto.

Any tips for getting the cranks off?

 

[Emailsucks98]

I’ve stripped the threads on the E13 cranks, the threads that the crank remover threads onto.

Any tips for getting the cranks off?

I wonder if you could use a crankshaft gear puller.

 

[Dave_B]

Yeah, I have a bearing puller but it’s a bit tool large.

 

[levity]

I’ve stripped the threads on the E13 cranks, the threads that the crank remover threads onto.

Sorry to heat that, @Dave_B

Curious as to how it happened. It might help other to know what model bike and what type of removal tool. I use a Park CCP-4 tool on my model 9.7 crank arms. Easy, breezy.

Did the damage occur during tightening the crank puller or during the actual crank arm removal? The puller just needs to be fully inserted but not tight, and there should be enough threads engaged to hold it securely enough to dislodge the crank arm when turning the removal tool.

Unfortunately, no tips than using some type of gear puller as suggested by @Emailsucks98

 

[Julie_X1]

Hello Everyone!

I am just about to buy a 9.5. There is a nice discount in france (MSRP is 6000€, found it at 5000€).

At first, i was just looking at the bike, but planning to buy a non electric bike (the new scor 2030 which is exactly 5000€). When i saw that discount, i thought that i can have a playful bike with a little engine to help me climb up quicker and freshr.

I read several pages of this topic, and i see you guys have several problems with the bike.

So my question is, is this bike worth it?

Freakin’ totally worth it, especially at that price.

The problems are no more frequent than for other e-mtb models.

My husband and I have a 9.5 and 9.7.

 

[Dave_B]

Sorry to heat that, @Dave_B

Curious as to how it happened. It might help other to know what model bike and what type of removal tool. I use a Park CCP-4 tool on my model 9.7 crank arms. Easy, breezy.

Did the damage occur during tightening the crank puller or during the actual crank arm removal? The puller just needs to be fully inserted but not tight, and there should be enough threads engaged to hold it securely enough to dislodge the crank arm when turning the removal tool.

Unfortunately, no tips than using some type of gear puller as suggested by @Emailsucks98

I have the two piece E13 crank tool, I didn’t screw one piece in sufficiently so it stripped the threads rather than pulling the crank.

 

[Dave_B]

Got the cranks off with the proper tool

Are these the correct Hope Cranks?

Hope E-Bike Crankset

This crank model is most suitable for Bosch gen 2/4 systems and Yamaha PW-X systems | Designed for maximum ground clearance | Self-extracting system for easy fitting and removal-

www.sprocketscycles.com