Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Canyon Shawn]

5DEV
Race Face Era
E13 Race Spec Carbon
Hope E Bike
FSA Bosch
Forx

Thanks!

 

[Canyon Shawn]

The Helix race look nice and are reasonably priced.

Helix Race e*spec Alloy Crank

HIGH PERFORMANCE. CONFIDENCE ON ANY TERRAIN. Helix Race e*spec Alloy Cranks offer a high performance alternative to carbon fiber for riders that prefer alloy or don’t want to pay for carbon to get a premium product. Forged and extensively CNC finished, the Helix Race e*spec Crank is a piece of...

www.ethirteen.com

Thanks! I’ll look at those. I’m thinking red Hopes. I like Hope stuff.

 

[konamac]

I have a large 9.7. Love the bike but really struggling with the Float X. Even with no tokens, I am only using 70% of travel and that is with 36% dynamic sag on the shock wiz. I have a float X on my Ripley, so I know how these should work. Unless mine is a weird/messed up tune, I should definitely be getting more travel. The other explanation is that the geometry is very progressive and needs a more linear spring.

I tried a Mara Pro. I had a Mara on the Ripley too, and it was very nice. The stupid long piggy back on the pro hits the downtime, so no go.

I was going to try a coil, but when I saw the Vivid, I though, Hmm.

It fits on my Large. Barely. At full compression, the lower air can is within 1mm of contacting the frame. I went to the trouble of making a wood lower spacer to install the shock to see if it fit, before I committed to the install.

First ride will be tomorrow. Fingers crossed I get the tunability that the Float X did not have.

View attachment 123384 View attachment 123385 View attachment 123387

Thanks so much for the reply with install pics. It sure is tight! But hey it's in. Let us know if there where any contact issues in real world riding. Can you get at the rebound knob ok? My understanding is the suspension is relatively linear hence the progressive air can on the Super Deluxe air shocks like on my 9.8XT. What do you weigh> Because it seems crazy that you are only getting partial travel with that sag and no tokens, maybe the shock is defective?

 

[DancingWithMyself]

What would it be like to go from 165mm cranks to 155mm cranks? Apart from the obvious, less pedal strikes. And, what cranks are available for our bikes? Thanks!

Definitely cool to experiment with stuff like this, but there is a review of the Hope crankset (normal bikes) on MBR that is a good rundown of the some of the counterpoints, which aren't getting much press at the moment. Just because it's a trend doesn't mean its wrong, but we shouldn't just accept it as better (which you're not).

I'd also do a good bit of googling on some of the options. Don't mean to offend anyone on here, but I'd be very careful with some of them, 5Dev in particular. The Hopes are forged then machined, but that review on MBR mentions they felt flexier than GX. Just one review and the comparison is not really applicable here, but just because it's machined, gorgeous, and more expensive doesn't mean it's better.

Even on the Helix Race, I think I recall reading in a review that those crank boots are required on the aluminum arms because of either how thin the walls are or the lack of material that extends beyond the pedal threads. The cranks are probably fine for 99% of people, but it still gave me pause. I've bent a GX crank arm before. Not that unusual of a thing to happen.

 

[wheelsx2]

Thanks so much for the reply with install pics. It sure is tight! But hey it's in. Let us know if there where any contact issues in real world riding. Can you get at the rebound knob ok? My understanding is the suspension is relatively linear hence the progressive air can on the Super Deluxe air shocks like on my 9.8XT. What do you weigh> Because it seems crazy that you are only getting partial travel with that sag and no tokens, maybe the shock is defective?

I got a ride in yesterday and it works well. No frame interference issues. It comes with 1 token installed. I weigh 205 so I set the air to that and got just about 30% sag. I started with -5 rebound, +1 LSC, 0 HSC and 0 HBO.

After ¼ mile I stopped and added 1 to rebound. I can just barely move the rebound, as it's pretty stiff, but I can access it from below. Thank goodness for that opening.
Another ¼ mike and I added one more click of rebound. Now at -3.

I rode the rest if the ride this way. I may add one more click but it is very close to being good and balanced with the front.

The trails I rode was mostly tech/slow single track with a few flowy trails and several road sections. No jumps or high speed chunk. No issue with pedal strikes and the bike climbed well, so I am confident the shock was riding reasonably high in the travel.

I used about 80% of the travel on this ride, which Is similar to what I would get with my Ripley. I will likely go to a rougher trail system on Tuesday. If that nets me 90%, I will consider this a fix. The Float X only every maxed out at 70% there. I also have one token I can play with. I would be curious to see how it feels in the most linear mode and how the hydraulic bottom out works.

 

[Emailsucks98]

@wheelsx2 Thanks for the review, keep the info coming!

Pinkbike's Shock Week has been interesting- I was especially interested in the Ohlins review since I've been tinkering with my TTX1 quite a lot recently.

Basically, I feel like the perfect shock for this bike may not exist yet. Like PB, I have resorted to adding volume spacers to my TTX1, to prevent bottom out when running <30% sag. (this is already their smaller air can- and I'm nearly maxx'd on spacers). HBO would fix this, as would a more adjustable HSC (instead of the 3-way switch). That said, I do love that all the adjusters are easy to get at, and with the 62.5mm stroke there's no chance of the reservoir hitting the downtube since it's "Sideways".

 

[konamac]

I got a ride in yesterday and it works well. No frame interference issues. It comes with 1 token installed. I weigh 205 so I set the air to that and got just about 30% sag. I started with -5 rebound, +1 LSC, 0 HSC and 0 HBO.

After ¼ mile I stopped and added 1 to rebound. I can just barely move the rebound, as it's pretty stiff, but I can access it from below. Thank goodness for that opening.
Another ¼ mike and I added one more click of rebound. Now at -3.

I rode the rest if the ride this way. I may add one more click but it is very close to being good and balanced with the front.

The trails I rode was mostly tech/slow single track with a few flowy trails and several road sections. No jumps or high speed chunk. No issue with pedal strikes and the bike climbed well, so I am confident the shock was riding reasonably high in the travel.

I used about 80% of the travel on this ride, which Is similar to what I would get with my Ripley. I will likely go to a rougher trail system on Tuesday. If that nets me 90%, I will consider this a fix. The Float X only every maxed out at 70% there. I also have one token I can play with. I would be curious to see how it feels in the most linear mode and how the hydraulic bottom out works.

Great feedback, did you go with stock shock stroke? 205 x 60mm?

 

[wheelsx2]

Great feedback, did you go with stock shock stroke? 205 x 60mm?

Yes. It seems this model is adjustable from 205-230 and 57.5-65 stroke.

 

[DancingWithMyself]

I got a ride in yesterday and it works well. No frame interference issues. It comes with 1 token installed. I weigh 205 so I set the air to that and got just about 30% sag. I started with -5 rebound, +1 LSC, 0 HSC and 0 HBO.

After ¼ mile I stopped and added 1 to rebound. I can just barely move the rebound, as it's pretty stiff, but I can access it from below. Thank goodness for that opening.
Another ¼ mike and I added one more click of rebound. Now at -3.

I rode the rest if the ride this way. I may add one more click but it is very close to being good and balanced with the front.

The trails I rode was mostly tech/slow single track with a few flowy trails and several road sections. No jumps or high speed chunk. No issue with pedal strikes and the bike climbed well, so I am confident the shock was riding reasonably high in the travel.

I used about 80% of the travel on this ride, which Is similar to what I would get with my Ripley. I will likely go to a rougher trail system on Tuesday. If that nets me 90%, I will consider this a fix. The Float X only every maxed out at 70% there. I also have one token I can play with. I would be curious to see how it feels in the most linear mode and how the hydraulic bottom out works.

Glad it worked and nice to know. Re reaching a rebound adjuster at the lower end of the shock. Running a hazzard (with progressive coil). Cheap 3mm hex key, dremel, and a dab of gorilla glue let me make a way to quickly adjust rebound a click or two without having to pull the shock. Highly, highly recommended if you have a similar shock. Just make sure there is tons of clearance at bottom out.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

If anyone is ever parting out a large carbon frame, let me know. I’d like to pick up a large front triangle. I’m not at all dissatisfied with my medium. But, I could have gone with a large. I’d like to try a large with a really short stem.

 

[wheelsx2]

Glad it worked and nice to know. Re reaching a rebound adjuster at the lower end of the shock. Running a hazzard (with progressive coil). Cheap 3mm hex key, dremel, and a dab of gorilla glue let me make a way to quickly adjust rebound a click or two without having to pull the shock. Highly, highly recommended if you have a similar shock. Just make sure there is tons of clearance at bottom out.

I was able to adjust it with the stock knob while on the bike. Not super easy, but not like I need to change this a lot. All the other controls are readily accessible.

 

[konamac]

Yes. It seems this model is adjustable from 205-230 and 57.5-65 stroke.
View attachment 123547

Just watch what parts are needed if you ever decide to change the stroke, because with the Super Deluxe Airs with the non adjustable HBO you need to swap out the damper body (with the pressed in HBO needle) because this part is sensitive to the stroke if it's going to kick in at 20% travel remaining. Added bonus of swapping the damper body is your sag marking remain correct. Not sure with the adjustable HBO, which is a different mechanism but would be good to clarify prior to any changes in stroke.

 

[wheelsx2]

Just watch what parts are needed if you ever decide to change the stroke, because with the Super Deluxe Airs with the non adjustable HBO you need to swap out the damper body (with the pressed in HBO needle) because this part is sensitive to the stroke if it's going to kick in at 20% travel remaining. Added bonus of swapping the damper body is your sag marking remain correct. Not sure with the adjustable HBO, which is a different mechanism but would be good to clarify prior to any changes in stroke.

Appears that stroke adjustment is the same as volume. Just a different type of spacer.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

So, the only thing I’m not happy with my 9.7 is, pretty much anytime I’m going down hill, I seem to be all over the trail. Especially down hill turns, and it seems that I oversteer at the exit of corners. I was running the compression adjuster on the right leg open. I am now running it, partially closed at the 3 o’clock position and that seems to help a lot. But, the problem is still there. I’m going to up the pressure by five psi in the fork and see if that helps. I am running softer than recommended pressures. I’ve never had that problem with a mountain bike before. And I am a fairly competent rider. I am an ex pro open class MXer and I’ve been riding mounting bikes for a long time. Any ideas to help this problem, besides learning how to ride? Thanks!

 

[mmcengineer]

So, the only thing I’m not happy with my 9.7 is, pretty much anytime I’m going down hill, I seem to be all over the trail. Especially down hill turns, and it seems that I oversteer at the exit of corners. I was running the compression adjuster on the right leg open. I am now running it, partially closed at the 3 o’clock position and that seems to help a lot. But, the problem is still there. I’m going to up the pressure by five psi in the fork and see if that helps. I am running softer than recommended pressures. I’ve never had that problem with a mountain bike before. And I am a fairly competent rider. I am an ex pro open class MXer and I’ve been riding mounting bikes for a long time. Any ideas to help this problem, besides learning how to ride? Thanks!

I would buy another bike and see if the same issues are still present, you can never have too many bikes

 

[Emailsucks98]

Any ideas to help this problem, besides learning how to ride? Thanks!

Sounds like you know what to look for...suspension set-up can be tricky. Funny how you adjust the rear shock, and that messes up the fork settings that were great before! Softer than MFG's recommended pressures seems odd though. I find 30% sag (w/o compression damping) almost always requires higher pressure than MFG's recommend.

Are you setting your sag with your compression adjusters full-open? (if so, good)
Also, I'm always looking for my fork to be firmer/faster than my rear, so that the head angle doesn't steepen up when you're braking or landing a drop into a corner.

I could go on here. I've just spent 4-5 rides messing with my suspension. I do have a "recipe" for tuning it in, but it required some "trail experiments".

 

[wheelsx2]

So, the only thing I’m not happy with my 9.7 is, pretty much anytime I’m going down hill, I seem to be all over the trail. Especially down hill turns, and it seems that I oversteer at the exit of corners. I was running the compression adjuster on the right leg open. I am now running it, partially closed at the 3 o’clock position and that seems to help a lot. But, the problem is still there. I’m going to up the pressure by five psi in the fork and see if that helps. I am running softer than recommended pressures. I’ve never had that problem with a mountain bike before. And I am a fairly competent rider. I am an ex pro open class MXer and I’ve been riding mounting bikes for a long time. Any ideas to help this problem, besides learning how to ride? Thanks!

...Oversteer at the exit of corners
That sounds like power delivery. Maybe experiment with a lower power setting or adjust the tune to be less responsive.

The other things I would check are rear tire pressure and how firm the rear shock is setup.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I would buy another bike and see if the same issues are still present, you can never have too many bikes have other

I would buy another bike and see if the same issues are still present, you can never have too many bikes

I have other bikes, and I don’t have that problem with them.

Sounds like you know what to look for...suspension set-up can be tricky. Funny how you adjust the rear shock, and that messes up the fork settings that were great before! Softer than MFG's recommended pressures seems odd though. I find 30% sag (w/o compression damping) almost always requires higher pressure than MFG's recommend.

Are you setting your sag with your compression adjusters full-open? (if so, good)
Also, I'm always looking for my fork to be firmer/faster than my rear, so that the head angle doesn't steepen up when you're braking or landing a drop into a corner.

I could go on here. I've just spent 4-5 rides messing with my suspension. I do have a "recipe" for tuning it in, but it required some "trail experiments".

No, I didn’t adjust the rear shock. I’ve adjusted the front fork compression on the right side of the fork from fully open to about 2/3 closed at the 3:00 position and that’s helped. Most people are running lower pressures on the Fox suspension. What I did is, instead of putting 175 pounds in the Trek app, I put in 160 pounds and I’m using those suggested pressure settings. That way, my front to rear balance should be close. It seems to really smooth out the bumps with those pressures and I’m typically using 90% of my travel. Im thinking upping the pressure on the fork will help.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

...Oversteer at the exit of corners
That sounds like power delivery. Maybe experiment with a lower power setting or adjust the tune to be less responsive.

The other things I would check are rear tire pressure and how firm the rear shock is setup.

That’s a good idea. I chould turn the power off and see what happens. And slow the pedal response and see if that helps. I’m on Maxxis Recons front and rear, tubless with 20 psi in the front and 22 psi in the rear. I guess I could try 22 psi up front and see what happens. It seems to me like I just need to get some weight off the front end in those situations. And, that’s why I’m running the comp on the fork at 3:00. I can feel it helps keep the front end up and even smooths out the small to medium bumps. I have no problems with any uphill turns. Uphill switchbacks are butter.

 

[wheelsx2]

Ya, rekons are not amazing for traction. They are fast though and those pressures look optimal. I am running a kryptotal rear and I feel a squirm accelerating out of corners but I like it!

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Ya, rekons are not amazing for traction. They are fast though and those pressures look optimal. I am running a kryptotal rear and I feel a squirm accelerating out of corners but I like it!

I did have the front tire slip out from under me on one hard packed flat corner. But other than that they’ve been fine. I had the same problem with the OEM tires.

 

[mmcengineer]

I have other bikes, and I don’t have that problem with them.

No, I didn’t adjust the rear shock. I’ve adjusted the front fork compression on the right side of the fork from fully open to about 2/3 closed at the 3:00 position and that’s helped. Most people are running lower pressures on the Fox suspension. What I did is, instead of putting 175 pounds in the Trek app, I put in 160 pounds and I’m using those suggested pressure settings. That way, my front to rear balance should be close. It seems to really smooth out the bumps with those pressures and I’m typically using 90% of my travel. Im thinking upping the pressure on the fork will help.

is one of them a san andreas? i worked there in the 90s and learned to build bikes there

 

[Canyon Shawn]

is one of them a san andreas? i worked there in the 90s and learned to build bikes there

Yes. Nice! What is your name?

 

[Smeer]

Upgraded the shock to an EXT E-Storia - this is a whole new different level of smoothing out the terrain! 10/10 recommend.

 

[konamac]

That’s a good idea. I chould turn the power off and see what happens. And slow the pedal response and see if that helps. I’m on Maxxis Recons front and rear, tubless with 20 psi in the front and 22 psi in the rear. I guess I could try 22 psi up front and see what happens. It seems to me like I just need to get some weight off the front end in those situations. And, that’s why I’m running the comp on the fork at 3:00. I can feel it helps keep the front end up and even smooths out the small to medium bumps. I have no problems with any uphill turns. Uphill switchbacks are butter.

If things seem to be getting confused and knobs are a twiddling left and right it sometimes pays to get back to basics and get the fundamentals sorted first.... You, and a lot of people on here have a lot of base knowledge from MTB and MX, but have a listen to what this guy says and maybe give it a try, because if you are adjusting damping when your basic balance is wrong, its not going to help... sag first then address issues in sequence.

 

[Emailsucks98]

Upgraded the shock to an EXT E-Storia - this is a whole new different level of smoothing out the terrain! 10/10 recommend.

I'd love to hear some more about that E-storia- What stroke? Is the rebound adjuster accessible? Is it their standard tune?

 

[Smeer]

I'd love to hear some more about that E-storia- What stroke? Is the rebound adjuster accessible? Is it their standard tune?

It was custom tuned for my Fuel EXE based on my weight; it came with two springs of my choice (based on weight with gear).

Yes the rebound adjuster is accessible, just need to use the alan key. It also has a lock switch for climbing.

Got the 205x60 and it is like I have much travel now vs the 9.7 whatever Rockshox it came with. I am not a bike/tech expert by any means, but I live in the Canadian West Coast which is fill of rocks and roots and this shock brings the bike to a whole other level!

I did do about 800km on the stock shock, decided to give this a go and now I don’t think I’d ever want to go back.

Had great, quick customer service too!

 

[Emailsucks98]

I'm going to do some experiments- just picked up a used Marzocchi bomber CR 205x62.5mm.
I've been very happy with the Ohlins TTx1, but it can't hurt to have a back-up and check my assumptions.
Avalanche has some pretty sweet custom tuning options which I may explore.

 

[Balboa]

I have ordered the Helix Race E*spec Alloy 160mm Crank from E13 after I have bend my standard crank. They have a special offer at the moment that you receive a 'free' chainring. crank offer

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

So, the only thing I’m not happy with my 9.7 is, pretty much anytime I’m going down hill, I seem to be all over the trail. Especially down hill turns, and it seems that I oversteer at the exit of corners. I was running the compression adjuster on the right leg open. I am now running it, partially closed at the 3 o’clock position and that seems to help a lot. But, the problem is still there. I’m going to up the pressure by five psi in the fork and see if that helps. I am running softer than recommended pressures. I’ve never had that problem with a mountain bike before. And I am a fairly competent rider. I am an ex pro open class MXer and I’ve been riding mounting bikes for a long time. Any ideas to help this problem, besides learning how to ride? Thanks!

I had this and turned out my front tyre was folding on harder turns. I realised when watching slo motion video back and I could see the front tyre fold and tuck under the rim, then re grip and force the steering.

I ditched the thinner tyres for something better.

PS Rekon are pretty flimsy and 20psi (depending on your weight) might be too low.