Canyon Shawn
Active member
Ok thanks for that. I’ll try 25 and see if that helps.
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Emailsucks98
Active member
Sounds to me like your fork is undersprung (you mentioned running below rec'd pressure). When you use F brake or shift your weight forward, fork compresses/rear end unloads, head angle steepens, and you get nervous handing.
20psi for the F tire should be OK long as your not getting flats.
I wouldn't touch Rekon's for local terrain, nor would I trust an app much for your suspension settings.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
I think the app is a very good starting point. I’ve been thinking about it this morning. Now that my suspension is broken in, it does feel way better now compared to when it was new, I’m going to go back up to the recommended pressures for my weight. And, then go from there. I have a 40 mile ride tomorrow morning. So, that’ll be a good test. I’ll take my pump with me in case I don’t like it.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Photo de jour. Also received my $175 used marzocchi bomber CR and had a super interesting call with Craig at Avalanche. Learned quite a bit about these bikes.
Magnacus
Member
Got my Fidlock adapter:
LuvnmyEXE
Member
SinglePointSafety
Member
For those unable to source the official e*13 crank boots for the EXe 9.7, I had success with the X-autohaux, see the link below (hope it works). The RaceFace 'alloy version' boots were far too tight to fit and needed scalpel work to expose the pedal thread, these below are much softer and fitted a treat, hope they give adequate protection
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Emailsucks98
Active member
Canyon Shawn
Active member
So, before todays ride I made a few changes. And they all seemed to work really good. Now that my suspension is good and broken in, I upped my ready to ride weight higher in the Trek app and I used those pressures and settings. The only difference I made was add 5 more psi in the fork. I also upped the pressure on my front 2.6 Recon to 24 psi to match the rear tire. These tires are pretty light. So, I think a little higher psi is a good idea. And, I didn’t hear the front tire pinging off of rocks like it used to. Right away, it felt better. I also tilted my seat back just a little and it just felt more comfortable to me. I’m still running the compression adjuster at the 3:00 position. So, I’m very happy with these changes. It doesn’t want to oversteer or be all over the place going down hill. And, I side a good portion of my travel. So yeah, I’m happy with it now.So, the only thing I’m not happy with my 9.7 is, pretty much anytime I’m going down hill, I seem to be all over the trail. Especially down hill turns, and it seems that I oversteer at the exit of corners. I was running the compression adjuster on the right leg open. I am now running it, partially closed at the 3 o’clock position and that seems to help a lot. But, the problem is still there. I’m going to up the pressure by five psi in the fork and see if that helps. I am running softer than recommended pressures. I’ve never had that problem with a mountain bike before. And I am a fairly competent rider. I am an ex pro open class MXer and I’ve been riding mounting bikes for a long time. Any ideas to help this problem, besides learning how to ride?Thanks!
Rorschach84
Member
Is anyone running an X2? I’ve found a brand new one for an absolute steal!
Yes, '23 model. 65mm stroke. Definitely more buttery than the Float X, I don't even know its there!
I had one and switched to a coil. I like the coil better.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Anyone happen to know the specs for those rust-prone chainguide bolts? TIA!
Canyon Shawn
Active member
I changed mine and I’m pretty sure I wrote about it here. I put in Titanium ones. Maybe go back and find it, if you can.
from Mitch@Trek some time back:
“Size confirmed at M5x0.8 thread at a 10mm length”
Swingset
Active member
Here is a million year supply. I reduced the head diameter a bit so that its a straight shot through the spider on my E13 on a 9.7.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com
Emailsucks98
Active member
Jack of All Trails
Member
Hi all, is anyone else noticing their battery performance getting worse. I would expect, like most rechargeables the battery performance will incrementally diminish overtime. However, my does seem really poor. The bike is 10 months old. When I purchased it I could ride 4 long trails at my local, around 2 hours, at full power (set on the app to max). Now, I run the same trails, and get 20% less riding before the battery dies. Fitness not the issue, as likely fitter now than a year ago I reckon. Anyhow, if you've experienced similar, what did you do?
mitea
Member
If you ride at full power all the time then current is at max which degrades a battery faster. I also assume they did not design it to perform best (longest) at max current.
DancingWithMyself
Member
I used bolts I had lying around. Can't remember if cleat or water bottle or something else.
Jack of All Trails
Member
Crank Removal. Hi again, I have the 9.7 with E*thirteen E*spec crank kit. I want to remove the cranks, give it a clean, tighten the lock ring from 30nm to the recommended 50nm etc. I searched online for the correct tools, but couldn't get a straight answer. Has anyone removed their E*thirteen E*spec alloy cranks and lock ring and what tools do you need. Much appreciated any guidance. 
Has anyone had problems with the handlebar remote on their fuel exe?
The "down" button stopped working on mine mid ride yesterday. When I got back I took it apart and found the microswitch for the down button had fallen apart, Ive fixed it for now,but suspect it will fail again soon,so have ordered a new remote (£100 , what a rip off!)
For a few weeks before it failed completely the down button was not feeling very positive and would fail to regsister a press every now and again.
The "down" button stopped working on mine mid ride yesterday. When I got back I took it apart and found the microswitch for the down button had fallen apart, Ive fixed it for now,but suspect it will fail again soon,so have ordered a new remote (£100 , what a rip off!)
For a few weeks before it failed completely the down button was not feeling very positive and would fail to regsister a press every now and again.
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I am using Parktool CCP-44 and Parktool BBT-18Crank Removal. Hi again, I have the 9.7 with E*thirteen E*spec crank kit. I want to remove the cranks, give it a clean, tighten the lock ring from 30nm to the recommended 50nm etc. I searched online for the correct tools, but couldn't get a straight answer. Has anyone removed their E*thirteen E*spec alloy cranks and lock ring and what tools do you need. Much appreciated any guidance.
Crank Removal. Hi again, I have the 9.7 with E*thirteen E*spec crank kit. I want to remove the cranks, give it a clean, tighten the lock ring from 30nm to the recommended 50nm etc. I searched online for the correct tools, but couldn't get a straight answer. Has anyone removed their E*thirteen E*spec alloy cranks and lock ring and what tools do you need. Much appreciated any guidance.
Note, the correct tool for the TQ lockring that holds the chainring to the TQ spindle is a standard 20 tooth bottom bracket tool such as the Parktool BBT-22, Parktool BBT-32, or Unior 1671.1/4 or many other 20 tooth bottom bracket tools.
I had the exact same issue. They replaced it under warranty. It has happened to others, according the the Trek rep for my LBS. It was a pain in the ass on my ride. It would get stuck in high assist mode. sometimes, I was able to get it to shift down if pushed the down button sideways. Otherwise, I had to turn the bike off, then turn it back on so it would reset into low gear.
Yeah,that's what I ended up doing.
I was on a ride with only the range extender battery ,testing the bike out for an up coming foreign trip ( hence just using the range extender), I managed to get 2800feet of climbing over 17 miles from it. That was with the motor turned off on the flat and downhill, only turning it on for uphills and then using eco mode set to 66w max and 50% assist
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My button broke in the same way after 5 months (Scott Lumen). I think it needs to be replaced every six months... That's bad...
yep, however the android version of the tq app just crashes when you try to enable the extended center button functionality, so I had to borrow someones Iphone and use the apple version of the app to switch this on.
I've emailed the app developers to let them know, but the android app hasnt been updated since december last year, so I dont expect a quick resolution
Has anyone compared new Levo SL to Trek EXe?
I'm starting to get interested these "light" eMtb's and levo SL is clearly my number one because i have currently Levo Comp and i like it very much.
BUT i want check other options also. Trek's removable battery is a plus. And that TQ motor is very interesting.
So, convince me why Trek would be a better option?
Both, Spesh and Trek are represented my local LBS.
Is TQ motor reliable, is there any downsides?
I'm starting to get interested these "light" eMtb's and levo SL is clearly my number one because i have currently Levo Comp and i like it very much.
BUT i want check other options also. Trek's removable battery is a plus. And that TQ motor is very interesting.
So, convince me why Trek would be a better option?
Both, Spesh and Trek are represented my local LBS.
Is TQ motor reliable, is there any downsides?
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