Je l'ai supprimé. La chaine est passée deux fois dessous pendant une sortie. Obligé de l'enlever pour finir. Je n'ai pas déraillé depuis. Plus simple aussi pour nettoyer le chainring
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Emailsucks98
Active member
Merci beaucoup. Je vais essayer ça pour l’instant, c’est l’option la moins chère!
Go to the link below and then click on "Find in store". Hopefully it's in stock somewhere local to you or you'll have to order from your LBS.
Trek 2023-2024 Fuel EXe e*Thirteen Chainguide - Trek Bikes
Enhance your cycling experience with Trek 2023 Fuel EX-e 29 e*Thirteen Chainguide. Shop now!
DugT
Active member
What else can cause the Ticking-clicking sound? My lockring is torqued to 50 Nm but the bike still makes a clicking sound during steep climbs. It sounds like it is coming from the bottom bracket/motor area but it could be coming from the headset.
Edit to add new evidence: While off the bike, I stepped hard on one pedal and pressed hard several times. At first I heard the clicking but after a few presses, the clicking went away. Then I did the same thing on the other pedal and got no clicking. It seems that has solved the problem, at least for now. I still don't know what could have caused the clicking.
Edit to add new evidence: While off the bike, I stepped hard on one pedal and pressed hard several times. At first I heard the clicking but after a few presses, the clicking went away. Then I did the same thing on the other pedal and got no clicking. It seems that has solved the problem, at least for now. I still don't know what could have caused the clicking.
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Here you go, this solved it for me and most others.
Tq hpr50 clicking sound
I owe scott lumen 900, while i pedal alot with assistance turned off, i hear ticking noise from motor when right pedal is between 10 and 12 hour, i check all, change pedals, torque bolts, chainrings, cranks...all, i noticed when i turn on assistance even on most little possible setting ticking...
www.emtbforums.com
Adjust the compensation screws on the motor and torque the two motor bolts to spec and the clicking should go away.
DugT
Active member
Thank you very much!Here you go, this solved it for me and most others.
Tq hpr50 clicking sound
I owe scott lumen 900, while i pedal alot with assistance turned off, i hear ticking noise from motor when right pedal is between 10 and 12 hour, i check all, change pedals, torque bolts, chainrings, cranks...all, i noticed when i turn on assistance even on most little possible setting ticking...
Adjust the compensation screws on the motor and torque the two motor bolts to spec and the clicking should go away.
It seems like a good first step is to just torque the mounting bolts. If that doesn't fix it, then do the whole procedure of removing the motor and measuring. I have a micrometer so theoretically I could do this if it is as simple as it looks. Is it? If not, I'm not sure that I trust my LBS to do it.
Yup, it's super simple. You do not have to take your cranks off either.
You just have to remove the rear wheel so you can access the two tiny screws on the back of the motor guard. The other screws holding the motor guard is easily reachable.
I started off using a caliper but just afterwards I just adjusted the compensation screws in small increments then test fitted the motor till it goes in snug with no play. Put everything back, torque the two motor bolts to 20 Nm, and good to go. No more clicking noise under heavy pedaling load.
When adjusting the compensation screws, are you using a T55 Torx socket by hand - or a workaround...?
My compensation screw was not tight at all and it was easily adjustable by hand. I didn’t need to use my torx bit.
DugT
Active member
I just did mine and I don't have a T55 but a big allen wrench worked well. I think it was an 8. There was no risk of stripping the star head. The compensation screws are not tight but they were not loose enough for me to twist without a tool. It is easy to make little changes for fine tuning. I used a micrometer and the upper compensation screw was .03mm off from perfect. My lower screw was off by .72mm. That was within spec but I easily got it within .01mm of the spec. Afterwords I took it for a short test ride and it was silent but there were no steep climbs. I'll test it rigorously tomorrow.
You should have blue thread locker for all off the screws. The motor mounting bolts are only 20Nm tight. That seems too loose to me so I used a lot of thread locker.
Edit: I think the Compensation screws can be adjusted without a micrometer but if you have one, it might be raster, easier, and more accurate to use it. I think it would be a big mistake to adjust the screws too wide and then try to force the motor into the frame.
Edit: The next day I rode it up steep hills and it was perfectly quiet. I love this forum!
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Jack of All Trails
Member
Hi all, if you see the attached photo, there's what seems to be a bit missing from the crank bolt from the chain ring side of the exe, maybe also a crack? I can't remember what it's meant to look like. Anyone else had this issue or can provide guidance? thank you
Emailsucks98
Active member
Nothing much to worry about there- the cracked piece is just plastic trim. You coud replace the crank-arm bolts if it bothers you- if you do, I'd look into self-extracting crank-arm bolts which come on the higher-end e13 cranks. You'll want to confirm their compatible.
Jack of All Trails
Member
Decolocsta
Active member
Is there going to be a rear fender for the Exe from Sicomtb ?
njatherton
Member
I'm confused.com!
Even though the service manual has a page about motor alignment screws with a Torx bolt, my motor just has 8mm hex bolts (one of which was loose) which are also mentioned on another page i.e. tighten to 20Nm.
DugT
Active member
Did you remove your motor? You can't see the width Compensation bolts until you remove the motor. The earliest versions do not have the compensation bolts.
njatherton
Member
No, didn't remove motor. Service manual doesn't say you need to do this.
DugT
Active member
Trust me, you need to do this. It is impossible to see those adjusters until the motor is removed but you only need to remove the two mounting bolts to remove the motor.
Edit: By the way, based on the manual, I thought the compensation screws would be visible so I was confused too until I removed the motor and then it was obvious.
Swingset
Active member
Maybe a refresher is in order. The two motor attachment screws are to clamp the frame to the motor. If the gap is too large between the internal width of the frame and the external width of the motor you wont be able to clamp it up and it probably will generate a creak. It is no different than the lower shock mount in terms of those issues.
If you do not have the compensation screws on your motor you are not dead. Shims can be added to make the gap as close to zero as possible. You also do not need a caliper to check it. Just some patience doing fit checks.
If you do not have the compensation screws on your motor you are not dead. Shims can be added to make the gap as close to zero as possible. You also do not need a caliper to check it. Just some patience doing fit checks.
DugT
Active member
Now that my bike is quieter because I fixed the hard pedalling clicking problem, I notice a new noise. The noise is from the chain riding on the chainring. It only happens when i:m in a lower gear (bigger rear sprocket) which is when the chain is under tension from the rear derailleur. The chain doesn't ride smoothly on the chainwheel. I thought maybe the chain was off a cog and the thick/thin cogs were out of sinc with the chain but that isn't it. The chain isn't hitting anything it shouldn't and everything seems to be aligned properly. Is this just the way 12x bikes are? It seems like the machining of the interface between the chain and the chainring is not a match. It reminds me of a girlfriend I had. We were both perfect but not made for each other. 
The Reverend
Member
I'm almost 1yr in on this 9.8XT model and after riding it again today I am still totally smitten with it.
There have been some challenges and issues with it. Fault codes, TCU malfunctions (wouldn't turn on first, then it wouldn't turn off or charge)
Creaking drivetrain issues and an issue with the carbon Line elite rear wheel.
Every single time, Trek came to support me on this and I'm very happy to have that backup.
Mods include:
Fox Factory 38 at 160mm
Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate coil
One Up components dropper post 240mm
One Up components 35/800 bars
Tannus Armour inserts front and rear
Maxxis Assegai 2.5 front
Maxxis DHR 2.4 rear
PNW loam lever
It rides so very well. I have decided to run it in the high setting after demolishing 2 chainrings and chains running at 150mm with the stock Lyrik and in the low setting.
It pedals incredibly well, and I even ride it on selected occasions and sections without support. Obviously the more fit I feel, the more able I am to use less support.
The descending, especially with the coil (with HBO) and the 38 is just stellar. As I weigh 107kgs the extra weight isn't much of an issue for me. It's planted, supple yet supportive and composed.
The only things I'd like to see on any future revisions would be:
Bluetooth remote controller
60nm torque / 400w power
Size specific chainstays
More stack on L and XL sizes or an XXL size
Slightly steeper STA.
HTA adjustability like the alloy version.
The motor has been great, super silent and just enough to give the support I need. For those weighing less it must be excellent on that aspect.
Overall, no regrets with this bike and it has very much made riding a joy all over again.
There have been some challenges and issues with it. Fault codes, TCU malfunctions (wouldn't turn on first, then it wouldn't turn off or charge)
Creaking drivetrain issues and an issue with the carbon Line elite rear wheel.
Every single time, Trek came to support me on this and I'm very happy to have that backup.
Mods include:
Fox Factory 38 at 160mm
Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate coil
One Up components dropper post 240mm
One Up components 35/800 bars
Tannus Armour inserts front and rear
Maxxis Assegai 2.5 front
Maxxis DHR 2.4 rear
PNW loam lever
It rides so very well. I have decided to run it in the high setting after demolishing 2 chainrings and chains running at 150mm with the stock Lyrik and in the low setting.
It pedals incredibly well, and I even ride it on selected occasions and sections without support. Obviously the more fit I feel, the more able I am to use less support.
The descending, especially with the coil (with HBO) and the 38 is just stellar. As I weigh 107kgs the extra weight isn't much of an issue for me. It's planted, supple yet supportive and composed.
The only things I'd like to see on any future revisions would be:
Bluetooth remote controller
60nm torque / 400w power
Size specific chainstays
More stack on L and XL sizes or an XXL size
Slightly steeper STA.
HTA adjustability like the alloy version.
The motor has been great, super silent and just enough to give the support I need. For those weighing less it must be excellent on that aspect.
Overall, no regrets with this bike and it has very much made riding a joy all over again.
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Now that my bike is quieter because I fixed the hard pedalling clicking problem, I notice a new noise. The noise is from the chain riding on the chainring. It only happens when i:m in a lower gear (bigger rear sprocket) which is when the chain is under tension from the rear derailleur. The chain doesn't ride smoothly on the chainwheel. I thought maybe the chain was off a cog and the thick/thin cogs were out of sinc with the chain but that isn't it. The chain isn't hitting anything it shouldn't and everything seems to be aligned properly. Is this just the way 12x bikes are? It seems like the machining of the interface between the chain and the chainring is not a match. It reminds me of a girlfriend I had. We were both perfect but not made for each other.
I'm wondering if perhaps it's time to refresh your chain with chain lube.
DugT
Active member
I waxed it for the first time a couple of days ago. I'm going to try directly waxing the chainwheel with molten wax and a small brush. That should make it more quiet but I think it should be such a tight fit with so much friction.
Decolocsta
Active member
It will dissapear After a few rides. I have had noticed the same with Mine.
But After the chainring grind itself in after a couple of rides the ride will be quiet.
DugT
Active member
I hope so but I'm skeptical because the chain already has about 300 miles on it. Maybe the chain is a slightly different shape because the waxing.
Decolocsta
Active member
Mine went quiet at about 4-500kms.
It wasJust the lowest 2 gears.
At First i thought the chainline is Off.
But the noises disappeared at one point After the chainring has worn in.
Never experienced such thing on other bikes. And indeed, the Chainline is strange on the EX-e.
With 12 gears the chain should be straight at Gear 6. But in fact the chain runs straight at gear 4.
Thats imo the reason for the Grind in process thats needed before its getting quiet.
--- EXe Battery security & theft ---
Has anyone considered replacing the m5x0.8 8mm oem battery frame screw (one or both) with more secure screws such as torx or torx with pin in the middle?
If I stop to eat or at a store, I secure my bike to my vehicle using a robust chain/lock to the hitch but the $800 battery only takes a 4mm hex (which is in the top tube tool) and 2 minutes to remove.
Has anyone considered replacing the m5x0.8 8mm oem battery frame screw (one or both) with more secure screws such as torx or torx with pin in the middle?
If I stop to eat or at a store, I secure my bike to my vehicle using a robust chain/lock to the hitch but the $800 battery only takes a 4mm hex (which is in the top tube tool) and 2 minutes to remove.
njatherton
Member
Sure, I would prefer a key lock but that's not a feature on the EXe like their other models.Thieves can buy those tools too
I would have preferred a key lock.
njatherton
Member
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