Canyon Shawn
Active member
What a baller!
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
What a baller!
What was the price on the full 360wh vs the extender
£538 for the full battery and end cap adapters Vs £529 for the range extender and cable and retention strap
thomasbran
New Member
So if you ride with a backpack it does not make sense to buy the range extender - IMHO
I suspect it will become a bit of a pain to swap the main battery over when is empty, vs just carry on riding with the range extender - its only 2 bolts though . But yes I think for a lot of people just getting another internal battery will be a better option than the range extender, especially because it give you another 360wh versus just 160wh with the range extender. so total of 720wh should be all the range anyone could ever need.
The main advantage of the range extender (for me anyway) is that fact that it can be used on its own without the main battery, and is small enough to take on a plane, that opens up the possibility of taking my ebike when I go to places like southern spain, madeira,finale, where its mostly uplifted, but does have the odd bit of pedalling. But its still not available, so I currently class it as vapour ware.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
How long did your suspensions take to break in and start feeling better?
Emailsucks98
Active member
Probably not what you want to hear, but I didn't notice any break-in. It's been what it is since day one, and for 140mm+/- I think it's great. Though I'm used to, and prefer a bit more travel.
What shock are you running and what's your set-up & weight? What are you used to?
Canyon Shawn
Active member
It’s a 9.7. I just went with the recommended settings from the app and it just seems harsh on small to medium stuff. Then I lowered the pressures a little and it still feels harsh. Although lowering the pressures can sometimes make the fork blow through the initial soft part of the travel. That’s what it feels like with the lower pressures. But, I only have about 100 miles on it. So there’s that. I’m just hoping they free up a little.
Fuel EXe 9.7 - Trek Bikes
Discover your next great ride with 36365_2023. See the bike and visit your local Trek retailer. Shop now!
Emailsucks98
Active member
Hmmm, I probably don't have any useful advice since I started with a 9.8 and then swapped the Super Deluxe Select+ to an Ohlins. I do think the suspension works great with a progressive set-up (i.e. air shock w/ add'l volume spacers & <28% sag) so you can set the shock up to be soft initially but ramp up before bottoming out.It’s a 9.7. I just went with the recommended settings from the app and it just seems harsh on small to medium stuff. Then I lowered the pressures a little and it still feels harsh. Although lowering the pressures can sometimes make the fork blow through the initial soft part of the travel. That’s what it feels like with the lower pressures. But, I only have about 100 miles on it. So there’s that. I’m just hoping they free up a little.
Fuel EXe 9.7 - Trek Bikes
Discover your next great ride with 36365_2023. See the bike and visit your local Trek retailer. Shop now!www.trekbikes.com
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droffsite
Member
My fork (9.9 XX AXS, so Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate) was very stiff with the recommended settings. I’m ~202 lbs/92 kg, 6’/183 cm; both the Trek and SRAM apps recommended 106 psi. I’m running the recommended 202 psi in back.
I got a ShockWiz (really wish AirWiz included this capability) and got its recommendations for the fork: 82 psi, fully open compression, 5 clicks out of rebound, no spacers. No bottom outs, still some travel left. Granted, it’s been wet in Oregon, so I’m not going full tilt boogie just yet, but I did (intentionally, of course, not at all plain old poor bike handling) case a few jumps and generally try to plod on a few drops. The fork feels much, much better, and I’ll be putting off getting my fillings replaced a while longer. I’ll see what is says for the shock next.
Incidentally, during the same calibration session, I decided to run max mode the whole time to get my battery to empty (hadn’t come close previously, as I tend to run 95%+ in the base mode; this was my 5th or 6th ride on the bike). Managed 16 miles/26 km and 2500’/762 m to 1%, using all 300 W of assist for the lion’s share of the climbing.
I got a ShockWiz (really wish AirWiz included this capability) and got its recommendations for the fork: 82 psi, fully open compression, 5 clicks out of rebound, no spacers. No bottom outs, still some travel left. Granted, it’s been wet in Oregon, so I’m not going full tilt boogie just yet, but I did (intentionally, of course, not at all plain old poor bike handling) case a few jumps and generally try to plod on a few drops. The fork feels much, much better, and I’ll be putting off getting my fillings replaced a while longer. I’ll see what is says for the shock next.
Incidentally, during the same calibration session, I decided to run max mode the whole time to get my battery to empty (hadn’t come close previously, as I tend to run 95%+ in the base mode; this was my 5th or 6th ride on the bike). Managed 16 miles/26 km and 2500’/762 m to 1%, using all 300 W of assist for the lion’s share of the climbing.
Where did you buy it?
Got the battery from je James ,and the end caps/ handle from AJ cycles. All in the uk
Forgot to say you also need some mounting bolts to fix the end caps to the battery,and handle to end caps,but I didn't need to buy these as I already had some that fitted.
I'm on the 9.7 as well and running the recommended psi for the fork and dropped the shock 14psi. Works out to 20% sag on the fork .. 28% (seated) on the shock... Feels pretty plush to me. No problems w blowing through the travelIt’s a 9.7. I just went with the recommended settings from the app and it just seems harsh on small to medium stuff. Then I lowered the pressures a little and it still feels harsh. Although lowering the pressures can sometimes make the fork blow through the initial soft part of the travel. That’s what it feels like with the lower pressures. But, I only have about 100 miles on it. So there’s that. I’m just hoping they free up a little.
Fuel EXe 9.7 - Trek Bikes
Discover your next great ride with 36365_2023. See the bike and visit your local Trek retailer. Shop now!
Wow I'm surprised that the full battery is almost same price as the extender. In that case it makes a lot of sense just to go with full battery.
That's what I did too. Extra battery all the way. the extender doesn't have that much extra juice either, making the battery a lot more attractive.
yeah - I'm kind of hoping that once the range extender becomes available the price will eventually drop to more like £300 which is probably more realistic pricing for the amount of WH it contains
Got my bike today, and right away even before I rode it I noticed a knocking sound / feeling when lifting the bike.
First I thought it was a loose bolt, but I isolated the issue to the bolt at the bottom part of the shock not fitting perfectly in the 40x8mm hardware. The hole that is supposed to fit the 8mm bolt is slightly too big and the bolt can move.
Really annoying!!!
Now I have to wait for either warranty or just ordering the new bolt. For the sake of time I think I will just order the part but this is just super annoying.
Sorry for the rant.
First I thought it was a loose bolt, but I isolated the issue to the bolt at the bottom part of the shock not fitting perfectly in the 40x8mm hardware. The hole that is supposed to fit the 8mm bolt is slightly too big and the bolt can move.
Really annoying!!!
Now I have to wait for either warranty or just ordering the new bolt. For the sake of time I think I will just order the part but this is just super annoying.
Sorry for the rant.
Emailsucks98
Active member
It certainly seems that way, much better Wh/$ value and availability sooner. I was 100% in, but I have read a few horror stories about injuries where people fell on their backs with batteries in their packs. That's why I was experimenting with strapping the battery to my downtube, even though it easily fits in a small back pack. This Osprey raptor 10 shown with the battery is the smallest hydration pack I've owned.
So for my use.... under 3500' vert, stock bike in mostly Eco works.
<4500', I'm experimenting with these "max range" settings which basically brackets the 3 assist modes between/below stock eco/trail modes. These may still be too thirsty. My thought being if I can get 4500' in detuned Eco/limp mode, I'd rather do that then carry the 2nd battery for local rides on blk/dbl-black trails where I don't want to risk falling on a battery.
>4500', for some local "stacked loop" rides I can stash #2 battery. But most >4500' rides I'll attempt will be higher elevation backcountry rides, which aren't so technical so I don't mind carrying the battery & a water filter, and taking fewer risks.
socal_rider
Member
I fought that issue too. Torquing the bolt to 18 Nm solved the issue. But since I’m having the shock serviced right now, the shop has ordered new lower shock hardware and will swap it out.
ragetty
Member
… for all the same reasons I tried to order one with a new bike, but was told none are available (in Germany).
Emailsucks98
Active member
On feb 8th, I heard mine was expected to arrive 3/20. Fingers crossed!
I have the exact same issue, the holes on my frame is already 8.2-8.3mm and no amount of overtorqueing stops the rattle. So much for using a normal hardware shop bolt that comes stock as 7.85mm! I have torqued this bolt so hard, I find it hard to believe that there is any movement at all! The knocking rattle is driving me bonkers.
I have basically taken the bike apart completely to see if its not anything else that rattles. It is especially pronounced on repeated hits on rocky sections, and you cant really hear it if you bounce the bike when standing still.
The rattle was there before my motor replacement (due to complete failure), so its not the motor or the bolts. Chainring lockring also fine. It feels like it comes from low in the bike. Derailleur? Chain?
Any ideas?
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I went for a ride today with two batteries , having an enormous amount of wh available does change the ride , due to the fact that you don't need to be keeping it in eco as much as possible to get the range means that you can just use mid or max modes most of the time, average speed is higher,more like a full fat ride.
It was good,nice to not be watching the watts all the time.
Emailsucks98
Active member
For lower shock hardware, rather than wait on Trek, seems like you could replace most everything with aftermarket.
These guys are good.
TBH I fully tore my bike apart & rebuilt it to get it quiet, and I fully expect I'll have to do it again in a few months. With the added use eBikes get they require a lot of maintenance. It could be something like cables/wires or a loose bolt rattling inside the frame. For me it was the hub driver, plus getting everything lubed & torqued to spec. My stem/bar interface gets creaky often.
I am looking forward to that!
I ordered a set of fox bushings 8x40mm. I hope it fixes the issue.
Piccirilli
Member
What about strapping it to the top tube? One won't need to read the display since remaining power is no longer an issue?
I got the bike and pulling the display from the bike, and the e-bar does not seem to have room for this connector. It is 9.5mm wide and the e-bar supports up to 6.5mm.
So now we know.
thomasbran
New Member
I am still waiting for my bike to get delivered, but the settings I was thinking of were:
Eco: 50% max 75 Watt
Tour: 100% max 150 Watt
Boost: 200% max 300 Watt
Can you tell a little on changes on pedal response how this impacts on pedalling?
Emailsucks98
Active member
Expect to have fun experimenting! The 3rd screen option, which shows rider output (Watts) vs motor output is really helpful. I have experimented with more assist/lower max wattage and vice-versa, and not really noticed a difference assuming the settings are balanced against each other (I use projected range to figure balance out).
What does make a difference- is motor output (in Wattage) and how it affects range. Let's say you set it up for only 10% assist max but full 300W, and then proceed to pedal your brains out. The motor will put out 300W and your range is greatly reduced. I'm still experimenting but my hunch is that capping wattage at 100 or below is the trick to increase range over stock settings. On one recent ride, I saw I was definitely going to kill the battery, so I reduced the eco settings to "limp mode" and was able to get a good bit more range and it was still a whole lot less work than a meat bike. I'm just adjusting the settings most every ride to get either range or power depending on my route. If I'm doing under 2500' then I can leave it in trail mode at 200w and that works awesome. Otherwise I'd rather tune all the modes down, rather than stay in Eco all day.
Pedal response, the one thing I've noticed is that as it's increased, there is more of the jittery grinding sensation some people have complained about. I mostly keep it in the middle, to keep the natural feel.
JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite
The ONLY benefit I see with the extender is you can fly with the extender as its under the 160wh limit. Places like here in New Zealand domestic riding is easily accessed by air travel rather than car/train.
But yes on a value ratio the replacement 360wh is way better value
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