speed300
New Member
It fixed it for me.I ordered a set of fox bushings 8x40mm. I hope it fixes the issue.
It fixed it for me.I ordered a set of fox bushings 8x40mm. I hope it fixes the issue.
What part number?It fixed it for me.
Yep, me too. The bike is silent now.It fixed it for me.
What part number?
ThanksI have a US 9.9 XX AXS. No gear cable installed. The rear derailleur is wired to the main battery; the seat post has its own battery.
Nice, are those the Groundskeeper/Brooklyn Bell decals?These decals were put on after installing the ride wrap, so I can easily change out to new theme decals.
Hold on.. that is 20mm too short. I see what you got though here:Yep, me too. The bike is silent now.
EAN: 0821973392950
It's called "Fox Racing Shox crush washer AL 8x20mm"
Sorry, yes you are correct they are supposed to be 8x40. I got them correct ones.Hold on.. that is 20mm too short. I see what you got though here:
Fox Shock Mounting Hardware
Mounting hardware kit for rear shocks, most commonly used in Fox shocks like the DHX2 and DHX, and the Marzocchi Bomber CR. Compatible with any brand or model of shock with eyelets with an inner diameter of 15mm and width of 12.7mm (1/2"). Compatible with RockShox shocks, DVO shocks, current...thelostco.com
8 x 40 in the menu drop down.
Taking my bike in next week to Trek Sydney to get them installed, so I assume they are in stock in Australia.Here are the part numbers. I haven't had any luck ordering from Trek or Fox here in Canada. Seems they are out stock right now.
View attachment 108506
Based on the post in the link below I’d say your best option is to contact your local Trek dealer to see if they can get the custom E*13 chain guide for the Fuel EXe.has anyone with a 9.5 bike bought an aftermarket chainguide ? I'd like one but I don't know which ones will fit.
Remind me, you have a 9.8? Wondering if a bash ring is an option.Thanks! I guess I'll just be a little more careful - and maybe keep a spare chain ring and chain on hand...
Thanks. Yes, 9.8!!Remind me, you have a 9.8? Wondering if a bash ring is an option.
Really not missing my previous ebike with the shimano motor that hung low & in front of the chainring. I feel like most full-power eBikes have that problem and become a liability on rock rolls with knuckle entrances.
Edit: Just hear my 2nd battery got pushed out to April 20th. Bummer!
I stand corrected, I thought the lower-spec models came with a separate spider/chainring that might allow you to mount a bash ring. But I'm not seeing that to be the case.Thanks. Yes, 9.8!!
All Shimano models come with a direct mount chain ring from E13 (E13 e-spec), the Sram models come with a spider (from FSA, unfortunately not available on the aftermarket so if you have bought a Shimano equipped model it is rather difficult to switch). You can see this also on the service book from Trek (there is a link to it in another discussion of this forum).I stand corrected, I thought the lower-spec models came with a separate spider/chainring that might allow you to mount a bash ring. But I'm not seeing that to be the case.
Firstly, I appreciate your feedback.You do realize that if you take a good fall, that ego battery is going to hit something and break your down tube. That battery can put a lot of leverage at the attachment points.
You can get the FSA spider after market. I have and my wolftooth ring and bash ring just got in. Still need to source the chainring bolts but first wanted to have all 3 pieces in hand. Also, anticipating some mods to the chain guide are going to be required.All Shimano models come with a direct mount chain ring from E13 (E13 e-spec), the Sram models come with a spider (from FSA, unfortunately not available on the aftermarket so if you have bought a Shimano equipped model it is rather difficult to switch). You can see this also on the service book from Trek (there is a link to it in another discussion of this forum).
Can you send me a link where you have ordered the spider? I am living in Italy and I am not able to find it...You can get the FSA spider after market. I have and my wolftooth ring and bash ring just got in. Still need to source the chainring bolts but first wanted to have all 3 pieces in hand. Also, anticipating some mods to the chain guide are going to be required.
Will report back when I get around to figuring it all out.
These are the closest I can findCan you send me a link where you have ordered the spider? I am living in Italy and I am not able to find it...
Were they riding the bike upside down?A friend took my bike for a ride on a flat gravel track and the screen cracked.
Could have just been a fluke stone and I'll buy a replacement (I even had the screen protector still on it) but I'm just checking this isn't a first gen issue that TQ are addressing as I've seen others with cracked screens too. View attachment 108749
I noticed the bolt being smallish too, mostly on the side with thread on, less so on the other side. There is just too much thread on the bolt. I have been looking for a bolt, but haven't found a proper good replacement.Took me a while to do this. I was waiting on the 803-03-325 (40 x 8 lower shock kit that Trek has recommended). Took everything apart and measured with a very accurate set of calipers and gauges.
1) Main takeaway- the holes in the frame, the bore of the shock spacer, and the diameter of the bolt all need to be very close to each other.
2) The 803-03-325 kit is almost worthless. The shock spacer is 39.99mm and the stock one is 39.89, that is the only difference. It may slightly help with reducing the amount of torque to preload (clamp) the shock spacer in the frame.
3) The main culprit is the bolt diameter. It is .310" creating a .008" gap that gets amplified at the rear wheel.
4) Is there a solution? Yes. A precision 8mm shoulder bolt with a closer fit would do wonders and reduce the amount play drastically. I will be trying to find an off the shelf solution and do a little testing.
5) Either Fox or RS has a set of small o rings to act as a seal between the OD of the shock spacer and the IGUD or DU bushing at the shock eyelet. They also work as dampers for any play. A similar set between the bolt OD and the shock spacer ID would also do wonders as a damper. This would require some simple lathe work.
Will keep updating as I go. Trek, this one is on me.
I just picked up a pair of 5Dev cranks. Did you need any special tools to swap the cranks, or just Allen keys?View attachment 105048
Made a few setup changes and got my first ride in yesterday. Installed 160 5Dev cranks, 5Dev Ti stem, WA1 Union wheels (had these in my garage from another build) and headed out.
First off my bike came with the new Charger 3 damper in the fork instead of the Charger 2.1 that shows on the spec sheet so that was a nice surprise. Didn't have time to really play with suspension setup, but out of the box the new RockShox stuff is really good. My only complaint is that the Bontrager dropper is absolutely horrendous. Lever is really stiff and the action on the post itself is painfully slow. Easy fix to install a PNW or something similar though.
I was using the bike to pre ride some courses for my Enduro race yesterday and it worked perfectly. Rode mainly Eco with some Trail and a few kicks to Boost on steep fire roads. Only used about 30% battery and still got a nice warm up in. Need to change my stem to the 32 mm instead of the 48 mm, but other than that everything feels great. I am planning on installing a 160 air shaft in the Lyrik, but other than that just ready to put some miles on it.
you need a crank pullerI just picked up a pair of 5Dev cranks. Did you need any special tools to swap the cranks, or just Allen keys?
thanks in advance.
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