Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

Canyon Shawn

Active member
Feb 4, 2023
294
191
Lake Sherwood, California
Has anyone had this issue? I made a seat post height change. Recommend torque on the clamp is 6-9nm. I torqued it to 6 and my dropped was a little sticky coming back up at the at the top. I dropped it to 5 and that seems to be ok for the dropper. I couldn’t imaging torquing it to 9nm. I feel like something would break. Hopefully the post will stay put at 5.
 

Emailsucks98

Active member
Nov 12, 2020
347
406
Bellingham Wa
These decals were put on after installing the ride wrap, so I can easily change out to new theme decals.
Nice, are those the Groundskeeper/Brooklyn Bell decals?

I'm a buttercup fan personally. I went from the stock Lyrik select+ 150 to a Zeb ultimate 160 with the buttercups, so hard to say how much of the difference was the chassis & extra travel. But same damper. Big improvement in small bump compliance & trail noise.
 

Swingset

Active member
Sep 9, 2022
276
310
Southern Cal
Yep, me too. The bike is silent now.


EAN: 0821973392950
It's called "Fox Racing Shox crush washer AL 8x20mm"
Hold on.. that is 20mm too short. I see what you got though here:

8 x 40 in the menu drop down.
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
343
266
DK
Hold on.. that is 20mm too short. I see what you got though here:

8 x 40 in the menu drop down.
Sorry, yes you are correct they are supposed to be 8x40. I got them correct ones.
Ill edit my post to avoid someone buying the wrong one.
But yes the ones you link too are the ones. I think the fox ones are great since they have an extra little shim with nobs on them. They won't fit a rockshox shock though, unless you use the white plastic bushings and press out the DU bushing from the RS shock first.
 
Last edited:

wizard604

Member
Jul 30, 2022
34
22
Vancouver
Yep, me too. The bike is silent now.



It's called "Fox Racing Shox crush washer AL 8x40mm" I don't know what the part number is called.
Here are the part numbers. I haven't had any luck ordering from Trek or Fox here in Canada. Seems they are out stock right now.

TSB - Lower shock hardware .jpg
 

volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
343
266
DK
has anyone with a 9.5 bike bought an aftermarket chainguide ? I'd like one but I don't know which ones will fit.
 

Bjeast

Member
Nov 6, 2022
23
14
Vancouver, BC
And while we're on the topic (sort of), I'm guessing there is still no bash guard we can buy for these things? That's probably the biggest problem for me. On my Enduro I tend to hit mine fairly regularly (on the North Shore, at least).
 

Swingset

Active member
Sep 9, 2022
276
310
Southern Cal
Keep in mind that the load path from anything gets transferred into the some really weak attachment points on the frame. Its probably best to keep the max clearance and let the chainring take the hit. I just dont see a viable option for mounting something that goes to structure in the frame. Right now the motor mounting bolts are the fuse.

On another topic there is vid on YT of a guy who broke a seatstay at the rear, right side pivot. That looks like a pretty weak area as well. It was a big hit though.
 

Emailsucks98

Active member
Nov 12, 2020
347
406
Bellingham Wa
Thanks! I guess I'll just be a little more careful - and maybe keep a spare chain ring and chain on hand... :)
Remind me, you have a 9.8? Wondering if a bash ring is an option.

Really not missing my previous ebike with the shimano motor that hung low & in front of the chainring. I feel like most full-power eBikes have that problem and become a liability on rock rolls with knuckle entrances.

Edit: Just hear my 2nd battery got pushed out to April 20th. Bummer!
 
Last edited:

Bjeast

Member
Nov 6, 2022
23
14
Vancouver, BC
Remind me, you have a 9.8? Wondering if a bash ring is an option.

Really not missing my previous ebike with the shimano motor that hung low & in front of the chainring. I feel like most full-power eBikes have that problem and become a liability on rock rolls with knuckle entrances.

Edit: Just hear my 2nd battery got pushed out to April 20th. Bummer!
Thanks. Yes, 9.8!!
 

thomasbran

New Member
Feb 15, 2023
29
24
Italy
I stand corrected, I thought the lower-spec models came with a separate spider/chainring that might allow you to mount a bash ring. But I'm not seeing that to be the case.
All Shimano models come with a direct mount chain ring from E13 (E13 e-spec), the Sram models come with a spider (from FSA, unfortunately not available on the aftermarket so if you have bought a Shimano equipped model it is rather difficult to switch). You can see this also on the service book from Trek (there is a link to it in another discussion of this forum).
 

shure2

New Member
Nov 3, 2022
48
21
New Zealand
You do realize that if you take a good fall, that ego battery is going to hit something and break your down tube. That battery can put a lot of leverage at the attachment points.
Firstly, I appreciate your feedback.

I would however argue that it is stronger in design than the TQ range extender, which sits like a bottle and could be levered off easier. My wrap around design has not failed yet on some big crashes, and if it did, high chances that it would be the 3d printed plate that would break, not the down tube.
 

shure2

New Member
Nov 3, 2022
48
21
New Zealand
A friend took my bike for a ride on a flat gravel track and the screen cracked.

Could have just been a fluke stone and I'll buy a replacement (I even had the screen protector still on it) but I'm just checking this isn't a first gen issue that TQ are addressing as I've seen others with cracked screens too.
PXL_20230310_233454216.jpg
 
Oct 16, 2022
68
54
Georgia
All Shimano models come with a direct mount chain ring from E13 (E13 e-spec), the Sram models come with a spider (from FSA, unfortunately not available on the aftermarket so if you have bought a Shimano equipped model it is rather difficult to switch). You can see this also on the service book from Trek (there is a link to it in another discussion of this forum).
You can get the FSA spider after market. I have and my wolftooth ring and bash ring just got in. Still need to source the chainring bolts but first wanted to have all 3 pieces in hand. Also, anticipating some mods to the chain guide are going to be required.

Will report back when I get around to figuring it all out.
 

thomasbran

New Member
Feb 15, 2023
29
24
Italy
You can get the FSA spider after market. I have and my wolftooth ring and bash ring just got in. Still need to source the chainring bolts but first wanted to have all 3 pieces in hand. Also, anticipating some mods to the chain guide are going to be required.

Will report back when I get around to figuring it all out.
Can you send me a link where you have ordered the spider? I am living in Italy and I am not able to find it...
 

Swingset

Active member
Sep 9, 2022
276
310
Southern Cal
A friend took my bike for a ride on a flat gravel track and the screen cracked.

Could have just been a fluke stone and I'll buy a replacement (I even had the screen protector still on it) but I'm just checking this isn't a first gen issue that TQ are addressing as I've seen others with cracked screens too. View attachment 108749
Were they riding the bike upside down?
 

Swingset

Active member
Sep 9, 2022
276
310
Southern Cal
Took me a while to do this. I was waiting on the 803-03-325 (40 x 8 lower shock kit that Trek has recommended). Took everything apart and measured with a very accurate set of calipers and gauges.
1) Main takeaway- the holes in the frame, the bore of the shock spacer, and the diameter of the bolt all need to be very close to each other.
2) The 803-03-325 kit is almost worthless. The shock spacer is 39.99mm and the stock one is 39.89, that is the only difference. It may slightly help with reducing the amount of torque to preload (clamp) the shock spacer in the frame.
3) The main culprit is the bolt diameter. It is .310" creating a .008" gap that gets amplified at the rear wheel.
4) Is there a solution? Yes. A precision 8mm shoulder bolt with a closer fit would do wonders and reduce the amount play drastically. I will be trying to find an off the shelf solution and do a little testing.
5) Either Fox or RS has a set of small o rings to act as a seal between the OD of the shock spacer and the IGUD or DU bushing at the shock eyelet. They also work as dampers for any play. A similar set between the bolt OD and the shock spacer ID would also do wonders as a damper. This would require some simple lathe work.

Will keep updating as I go. Trek, this one is on me.
 

Attachments

  • EXe lower shock mount layout.PDF
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volts

Active member
May 15, 2018
343
266
DK
Took me a while to do this. I was waiting on the 803-03-325 (40 x 8 lower shock kit that Trek has recommended). Took everything apart and measured with a very accurate set of calipers and gauges.
1) Main takeaway- the holes in the frame, the bore of the shock spacer, and the diameter of the bolt all need to be very close to each other.
2) The 803-03-325 kit is almost worthless. The shock spacer is 39.99mm and the stock one is 39.89, that is the only difference. It may slightly help with reducing the amount of torque to preload (clamp) the shock spacer in the frame.
3) The main culprit is the bolt diameter. It is .310" creating a .008" gap that gets amplified at the rear wheel.
4) Is there a solution? Yes. A precision 8mm shoulder bolt with a closer fit would do wonders and reduce the amount play drastically. I will be trying to find an off the shelf solution and do a little testing.
5) Either Fox or RS has a set of small o rings to act as a seal between the OD of the shock spacer and the IGUD or DU bushing at the shock eyelet. They also work as dampers for any play. A similar set between the bolt OD and the shock spacer ID would also do wonders as a damper. This would require some simple lathe work.

Will keep updating as I go. Trek, this one is on me.
I noticed the bolt being smallish too, mostly on the side with thread on, less so on the other side. There is just too much thread on the bolt. I have been looking for a bolt, but haven't found a proper good replacement.
It needs to be an M8 x 1 x 60
Torque and loctite has solved any play for me though.
 

Cell4soul

E*POWAH Master
Jul 11, 2022
518
1,324
Mesa, AZ
View attachment 105048

Made a few setup changes and got my first ride in yesterday. Installed 160 5Dev cranks, 5Dev Ti stem, WA1 Union wheels (had these in my garage from another build) and headed out.

First off my bike came with the new Charger 3 damper in the fork instead of the Charger 2.1 that shows on the spec sheet so that was a nice surprise. Didn't have time to really play with suspension setup, but out of the box the new RockShox stuff is really good. My only complaint is that the Bontrager dropper is absolutely horrendous. Lever is really stiff and the action on the post itself is painfully slow. Easy fix to install a PNW or something similar though.

I was using the bike to pre ride some courses for my Enduro race yesterday and it worked perfectly. Rode mainly Eco with some Trail and a few kicks to Boost on steep fire roads. Only used about 30% battery and still got a nice warm up in. Need to change my stem to the 32 mm instead of the 48 mm, but other than that everything feels great. I am planning on installing a 160 air shaft in the Lyrik, but other than that just ready to put some miles on it.
I just picked up a pair of 5Dev cranks. Did you need any special tools to swap the cranks, or just Allen keys?

thanks in advance.
 

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