speed300
New Member
It fixed it for me.
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Canyon Shawn
Active member
Has anyone had this issue? I made a seat post height change. Recommend torque on the clamp is 6-9nm. I torqued it to 6 and my dropped was a little sticky coming back up at the at the top. I dropped it to 5 and that seems to be ok for the dropper. I couldn’t imaging torquing it to 9nm. I feel like something would break. Hopefully the post will stay put at 5.
Swingset
Active member
What part number?
Yep, me too. The bike is silent now.
It's called "Fox Racing Shox crush washer AL 8x40mm" I don't know what the part number is called.
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towzer
Member
Thanks
Emailsucks98
Active member
Nice, are those the Groundskeeper/Brooklyn Bell decals?
I'm a buttercup fan personally. I went from the stock Lyrik select+ 150 to a Zeb ultimate 160 with the buttercups, so hard to say how much of the difference was the chassis & extra travel. But same damper. Big improvement in small bump compliance & trail noise.
Swingset
Active member
Hold on.. that is 20mm too short. I see what you got though here:
Fox Shock Mounting Hardware
Mounting hardware kit for rear shocks, most commonly used in Fox shocks like the DHX2 and DHX, and the Marzocchi Bomber CR. Compatible with any brand or model of shock with eyelets with an inner diameter of 15mm and width of 12.7mm (1/2"). Compatible with RockShox shocks, DVO shocks, current...
thelostco.com
8 x 40 in the menu drop down.
Sorry, yes you are correct they are supposed to be 8x40. I got them correct ones.Hold on.. that is 20mm too short. I see what you got though here:
Fox Shock Mounting Hardware
Mounting hardware kit for rear shocks, most commonly used in Fox shocks like the DHX2 and DHX, and the Marzocchi Bomber CR. Compatible with any brand or model of shock with eyelets with an inner diameter of 15mm and width of 12.7mm (1/2"). Compatible with RockShox shocks, DVO shocks, current...
8 x 40 in the menu drop down.
Ill edit my post to avoid someone buying the wrong one.
But yes the ones you link too are the ones. I think the fox ones are great since they have an extra little shim with nobs on them. They won't fit a rockshox shock though, unless you use the white plastic bushings and press out the DU bushing from the RS shock first.
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Here are the part numbers. I haven't had any luck ordering from Trek or Fox here in Canada. Seems they are out stock right now.
Taking my bike in next week to Trek Sydney to get them installed, so I assume they are in stock in Australia.
Based on the post in the link below I’d say your best option is to contact your local Trek dealer to see if they can get the custom E*13 chain guide for the Fuel EXe.
Fuel EXe - Official Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
Bjeast
Member
And while we're on the topic (sort of), I'm guessing there is still no bash guard we can buy for these things? That's probably the biggest problem for me. On my Enduro I tend to hit mine fairly regularly (on the North Shore, at least).
Swingset
Active member
Keep in mind that the load path from anything gets transferred into the some really weak attachment points on the frame. Its probably best to keep the max clearance and let the chainring take the hit. I just dont see a viable option for mounting something that goes to structure in the frame. Right now the motor mounting bolts are the fuse.
On another topic there is vid on YT of a guy who broke a seatstay at the rear, right side pivot. That looks like a pretty weak area as well. It was a big hit though.
On another topic there is vid on YT of a guy who broke a seatstay at the rear, right side pivot. That looks like a pretty weak area as well. It was a big hit though.
Bjeast
Member
Thanks! I guess I'll just be a little more careful - and maybe keep a spare chain ring and chain on hand... 
Emailsucks98
Active member
Remind me, you have a 9.8? Wondering if a bash ring is an option.Thanks! I guess I'll just be a little more careful - and maybe keep a spare chain ring and chain on hand...
Really not missing my previous ebike with the shimano motor that hung low & in front of the chainring. I feel like most full-power eBikes have that problem and become a liability on rock rolls with knuckle entrances.
Edit: Just hear my 2nd battery got pushed out to April 20th. Bummer!
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Bjeast
Member
Thanks. Yes, 9.8!!
Emailsucks98
Active member
I stand corrected, I thought the lower-spec models came with a separate spider/chainring that might allow you to mount a bash ring. But I'm not seeing that to be the case.
Bjeast
Member
No - so I think it's staus quo.
thomasbran
New Member
All Shimano models come with a direct mount chain ring from E13 (E13 e-spec), the Sram models come with a spider (from FSA, unfortunately not available on the aftermarket so if you have bought a Shimano equipped model it is rather difficult to switch). You can see this also on the service book from Trek (there is a link to it in another discussion of this forum).
shure2
New Member
Firstly, I appreciate your feedback.
I would however argue that it is stronger in design than the TQ range extender, which sits like a bottle and could be levered off easier. My wrap around design has not failed yet on some big crashes, and if it did, high chances that it would be the 3d printed plate that would break, not the down tube.
shure2
New Member
A friend took my bike for a ride on a flat gravel track and the screen cracked.
Could have just been a fluke stone and I'll buy a replacement (I even had the screen protector still on it) but I'm just checking this isn't a first gen issue that TQ are addressing as I've seen others with cracked screens too.
Could have just been a fluke stone and I'll buy a replacement (I even had the screen protector still on it) but I'm just checking this isn't a first gen issue that TQ are addressing as I've seen others with cracked screens too.
DancingWithMyself
Member
You can get the FSA spider after market. I have and my wolftooth ring and bash ring just got in. Still need to source the chainring bolts but first wanted to have all 3 pieces in hand. Also, anticipating some mods to the chain guide are going to be required.
Will report back when I get around to figuring it all out.
thomasbran
New Member
Can you send me a link where you have ordered the spider? I am living in Italy and I am not able to find it...
These are the closest I can find
FSA TQ HPR50 Ebike Spider (Black, 1x, 104 BCD, CL55, W0190)
Forged AL6061 spider. BCD 104mm. Bead blasted anodized black. 43.2grams (W0188), 48.1grams (W0189), 54.7grams (W0190).
www.bikeparts.co.uk
Swingset
Active member
Were they riding the bike upside down?
Swingset
Active member
Took me a while to do this. I was waiting on the 803-03-325 (40 x 8 lower shock kit that Trek has recommended). Took everything apart and measured with a very accurate set of calipers and gauges.
1) Main takeaway- the holes in the frame, the bore of the shock spacer, and the diameter of the bolt all need to be very close to each other.
2) The 803-03-325 kit is almost worthless. The shock spacer is 39.99mm and the stock one is 39.89, that is the only difference. It may slightly help with reducing the amount of torque to preload (clamp) the shock spacer in the frame.
3) The main culprit is the bolt diameter. It is .310" creating a .008" gap that gets amplified at the rear wheel.
4) Is there a solution? Yes. A precision 8mm shoulder bolt with a closer fit would do wonders and reduce the amount play drastically. I will be trying to find an off the shelf solution and do a little testing.
5) Either Fox or RS has a set of small o rings to act as a seal between the OD of the shock spacer and the IGUD or DU bushing at the shock eyelet. They also work as dampers for any play. A similar set between the bolt OD and the shock spacer ID would also do wonders as a damper. This would require some simple lathe work.
Will keep updating as I go. Trek, this one is on me.
1) Main takeaway- the holes in the frame, the bore of the shock spacer, and the diameter of the bolt all need to be very close to each other.
2) The 803-03-325 kit is almost worthless. The shock spacer is 39.99mm and the stock one is 39.89, that is the only difference. It may slightly help with reducing the amount of torque to preload (clamp) the shock spacer in the frame.
3) The main culprit is the bolt diameter. It is .310" creating a .008" gap that gets amplified at the rear wheel.
4) Is there a solution? Yes. A precision 8mm shoulder bolt with a closer fit would do wonders and reduce the amount play drastically. I will be trying to find an off the shelf solution and do a little testing.
5) Either Fox or RS has a set of small o rings to act as a seal between the OD of the shock spacer and the IGUD or DU bushing at the shock eyelet. They also work as dampers for any play. A similar set between the bolt OD and the shock spacer ID would also do wonders as a damper. This would require some simple lathe work.
Will keep updating as I go. Trek, this one is on me.
I noticed the bolt being smallish too, mostly on the side with thread on, less so on the other side. There is just too much thread on the bolt. I have been looking for a bolt, but haven't found a proper good replacement.
It needs to be an M8 x 1 x 60
Torque and loctite has solved any play for me though.
I just picked up a pair of 5Dev cranks. Did you need any special tools to swap the cranks, or just Allen keys?
thanks in advance.
you need a crank puller
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