Are you worried about all of the EMTB restrictions in Park City? One of my appeals to the EXe was the stealth looks and the quiet motor so I can ride places like PC, Moab and Sedona going undetected as an EMTB.
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Are you worried about all of the EMTB restrictions in Park City? One of my appeals to the EXe was the stealth looks and the quiet motor so I can ride places like PC, Moab and Sedona going undetected as an EMTB.
Montana St Alum
Active member
No. I'm 70 and my wife will turn 70 this summer. All of the PC trails can be ridden on a class 1 ebike by people 65 and older, or if you have a physical impairment, but people don't seem to get too worked up about it. I don't.
The Coyote trail system in Heber is open to ebikes for all.
Moab has plenty of ebike (and motorcycle) trails and I probably would only take my mountain bike there anyway. Slick Rock, Sovereign, Amasa (not Hymasa/Ahab) and several other 15+ mile loops are available and would be fun on an ebike.
I reserve my outrage for kids on my lawn.
Edit:
I'm also looking at the Pivot Shuttle SL which is very stealthy as well. I can't hear either motor in operation and the SL BB is higher. That could be a major factor in my decision-making process.
Last edited:
Canyon Shawn
Active member
Should I be trying to run the battery as far dawn as possible before recharging it? I did run it completely down to Zero for the first cycle. It took me two rides to do that. I ran it down to 40% today. But, I’d like to go for a longer ride tomorrow.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Always interesting to hear how eBike access is in various areas. It's pretty much a non-issue here in Wa.
I think most trail users wouldn't be able to discern between the Fuel EXe and a regular mountain bike- not that I'm advocating poaching Yosemite
I was noticing today it's much quieter at lower assist levels.
Here's today's range testing: 21 miles, 3600'. road & singletrack climbing, single black DH. All eco, bike went into limp mode at 3300' and cut out completely at 15.25 miles. The remainder of the ride had like 200' of climbing, mostly traversing. I really did not mind riding without the motor, it's very ridable without assist and I still had legs after riding in eco. Trails were ultra muddy, I was running mullet & maxxgrip tires at 20psi, so some range handicaps there. I'll be trying detuned Eco mode for some longer rides.... longer days and drier trails just around the corner...
Montana St Alum
Active member
Thanks, this data is very helpful!Always interesting to hear how eBike access is in various areas. It's pretty much a non-issue here in Wa.
I think most trail users wouldn't be able to discern between the Fuel EXe and a regular mountain bike- not that I'm advocating poaching Yosemite
I was noticing today it's much quieter at lower assist levels.
Here's today's range testing: 21 miles, 3600'. road & singletrack climbing, single black DH. All eco, bike went into limp mode at 3300' and cut out completely at 15.25 miles. The remainder of the ride had like 200' of climbing, mostly traversing. I really did not mind riding without the motor, it's very ridable without assist and I still had legs after riding in eco. Trails were ultra muddy, I was running mullet & maxxgrip tires at 20psi, so some range handicaps there. I'll be trying detuned Eco mode for some longer rides.... longer days and drier trails just around the corner...
View attachment 107149
Montana St Alum
Active member
The short answer from me is: I'm not sure. The Fazua site has info that might be applicable:
"For a long life of a lithium-ion battery, it is best to keep it in the range between 30 and 80% charge capacity. Studies by cell manufacturers have shown that the life of a cell increases significantly if it is not fully charged. If a battery is only ever charged to 80%, its service life is doubled because the high voltage range, in which the cell chemistry is particularly stressed, is avoided."
And, for long term storage:
"The general rule for lithium-ion batteries is that they should always be stored between 10ºC and 15ºC. If not used during the winter, the battery should be charged to a minimum of 60% and then checked every 8 weeks and recharged if necessary. If the battery is not used for a long period of time and stored at low temperatures, a deep discharge may occur and the battery will be irreparably damaged."
Once I get an ebike, I plan to use it hard, though! I'll charge it to 100% when I need to and discharge to zero when I want to. I'm old and I do crazy stuff. I don't want the battery to outlast me!
prolix2
Member
I have followed the lithium battery issue very closely over the many years that they have been out and what Montana St Alum says is true. Basically you can think of lithium batteries as not liking to be cycled, and certainly not to the limits. A typical computer battery or cell phone battery that might have a potential for 300 to 500 full discharge recharge cycles would actually have a potential of 10,000 full cycle equivalents if cycled only between 50 and 55%. So if you really want your battery to last forever, you would cycle it around that 55% range, depending on how much you need for your ride if you could predict it. And ideally stop charging it at 80%.( but it’s too much trouble to watch the charge.). But worse than cycling, which is after all what they’re designed to do, lithium batteries absolutely HATE extremes of temperature much more. After reading up on this again just now I surely regret leaving my ebikes in the garage. (. Other sites say you should store your battery at about 50 to 60% state of charge. Maybe that’s why new computers and cell phones seem to deliver with about 50% charge. By the way, it seems that the self discharge rate of older lithium batteries was about 8% per month, but I just read that the newer batteries it’s about 2% per month.)
Swingset
Active member
On a whim bought a pair of I9 305 Enduro wheels on PB. Not sure they are worth the amount I saved on the Line 30's but man are they fun to watch. Must say the stock wheels are pretty darn nice.
Emailsucks98
Active member
Those are great wheels, I have a set that are like 5yrs old on my Chromag, they are going strong. I taco’d the front casing a jump, and getting the rim replaced was only like $120 w/labor. Very happy with them.
playboater15
Member
Following up from my loose lower shock mount issue on 9.7 Black Grety bike with Fox Float... Fitted offset bushing in the "high position", as some forum members and a friend had suggested. Bike now super sweet as a mullet! Unfortunately, it rotated itself into the "low position" within a handful of rides, and oddly, the play was back. Checked torque on bolt - no change - removed shock, moved it back to high and it's fixed again... Might have to suck up the lower bottom bracket on a good quality standard bushing, reduce sag a little, and hopefully there isn't an issue with the frame. Is the only other option to get shorter cranks, or is there a shock that's perhaps 3 or 4mm longer eye to eye? Thanks!
Swingset
Active member
Offset bushings will only work, long term, in the low position. In high it would have to be at top dead center with a bunch of friction to stay there. The stroke of the shock is off TDC and its going to migrate to the bottom over time. On my Decoy I went from 170 to 165mm cranks and it was much better.
Swingset
Active member
Not a fan of drilling holes in cantilevered beams for aesthetic purposes. I just black taped mine and barely notice it.
Montana St Alum
Active member
There is a video of a guy doing it with the Pivot Shuttle SL.
I'm considering it in my planning. I currently use a Fasst Flexx set of bars and I'm loving the compliance in rocky descents out here in Utah!
He did have to slightly ovalize the predrilled hole, but it looked more like just shaving a bit. That may not be necessary with the Exe.
Emailsucks98
Active member
I’ve been using heat shrink tubing to wrap it to the front brake line. A little more fuss but it looks really clean and you don’t need a bar with holes.
Montana St Alum
Active member
Just in case people don't realize, these One Up bars are pre-drilled specifically to run wiring.
www.oneupcomponents.com
Carbon E-Bar
The Most Compliant E-Bike Rated Bar On the Market E-Bikes let you ride further for longer. They’re heavier and more physically demanding to ride. That makes reducing fatigue even more important. Our Carbon E-Bar is 20% more compliant than other carbon handlebars. That means more comfort and less...
www.oneupcomponents.com
njatherton
Member
I did the same but with ty-raps
speed300
New Member
Hey @Jack of All Trails, sorry for the long delay. I did finally get the bike into the shop. When I dropped it off they mentioned there was a TSB for re-torquing the motor mounts, but once they dug into it, they found that there is a Fox specific bushing for the rear shock that is needed and they have ordered it. So, while not resolved YET, I hope it will be by the end of the week.
Basically, when I swapped from rock shox that came standard with the 9.5 to the Fox Float X2, there is a bushing that is now undersized and that's leaving flex in the crankset that shouldn't be there. For what it's worth, that's exactly what I observed. I torqued everything down and there was just shifting that occurred when I put pressure on the cranks.
Will update when I get the bike back.
Interesting. I have ordered a 9.5 too and will be swapping the shock for a fox shock too, so if possible can you recommend the correct bushing?
playboater15
Member
Sounds a lot like my problem, but different symptoms!
speed300
New Member
I will ask when I pick up the bike later this week and report back here.
playboater15
Member
You need 40 x 8... Apparently there's another standard, 39.88 that was being inadvertently supplied. Any aftermarket 40x8 bushings should work if your frame is built to spec! That's my current concern.
Swingset
Active member
I am working a tolerance study for my specific set up- Fox Float X. Did some CAD work but need to take everything apart and put some numbers to it. Patience.
playboater15
Member
Can't wait!
InRustWeTrust
E*POWAH Master
Nice , i have put a dhx2 om my L trek to and i like i ´t alot
DBSwiss
Member
I have seen that with the TQ app (not the trek app), cadence could be set to appear as one of the display options. However I have not been able to change it. My trek shop said, it could not be changed at this time. If anyone knows differently, I would also appreciate a tip here.
I don't think you can get it to display on the bike screen (unless a newer firmware update has enabled this),but you can get cadence from the bike displayed on a Garmin bike computer/watch.
DBSwiss
Member
Ditto. I have a Tesla and treat the TQ battery like I treat my car. I don’t go below 20% and charge to 80% on a regular basis. The reason why charging slows down the closer to 100% the battery gets Is that is more difficult to balance charge between cells and it’s easier to over charge individual cells. I charge to 100% before a long ride but if I know, I don’t need the capacity, I just keep it at 80%. I take the battery out in the winter and keep it in the house. When I don’t ride for a while , I keep the battery charge around 40-60% for storage.
Canyon Shawn
Active member
I drive a Tesla Plaid and that’s how I charge it. And, I’ve started charging my TQ battery the same. What I don’t know is, if you go from like 30% and charge it to 80%, is that considered one charge cycle?
DBSwiss
Member
I am no expert, but one cycle is considered 0-100%. 30-80 would be less than half a cycle as it is ‘easier‘ on the battery charging that way. The battery should be most stable around 50% so for long term storage that should be the optimum.
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