Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!

[Ribinrobin]

Finally giving up on the stock tyres, i have a mary/betty to go on. A friend said the bontrager carbon wheels are a nightmare to get tyres seated on and you have to change rim tape? can anyone confirm this?

 

[Magnacus]

Finally giving up on the stock tyres, i have a mary/betty to go on. A friend said the bontrager carbon wheels are a nightmare to get tyres seated on and you have to change rim tape? can anyone confirm this?

There is a rubber "rim tape" in the rim bed. You have to take it out and replace it with a tubeless rim tape. Changing the tires with the rubber tape installed is very, very difficult.

Edit:
If you can't get the old tires off the rim, you can also cut them. For the wire in the bead, you might need a bowden cable cutter. Be careful. But it's probably better than using a tire lever.

 

[Ribinrobin]

There is a rubber "rim tape" in the rim bed. You have to take it out and replace it with a tubeless rim tape. Changing the tires with the rubber tape installed is very, very difficult.

Edit:
If you can't get the old tires off the rim, you can also cut them. For the wire in the bead, you might need a bowden cable cutter. Be careful. But it's probably better than using a tire lever.

thanks mate that saves some hassle. Do you know what size rim tape it needs?

 

[Magnacus]

thanks mate that saves some hassle. Do you know what size rim tape it needs?

The rim is 30mm wide on the inside. Then a 31 or 32mm wide rim tape should fit well.

 

[njatherton]

The rim is 30mm wide on the inside. Then a 31 or 32mm wide rim tape should fit well.

Finally giving up on the stock tyres, i have a mary/betty to go on. A friend said the bontrager carbon wheels are a nightmare to get tyres seated on and you have to change rim tape? can anyone confirm this?

A great tip I have used when I originally struggled to replace the tires/tyres is to warm up the beads with, eg, a hairdryer. This makes them more flexible. I fitted an Assegai F & a Kryptotal R no problem using this method without replacing the rim tape.

 

[Stihldog]

Using a specific width rim tape for your rim is helpful. (30mm tape for a 30mm rim.) Don’t tape up the walls of your rim. This could cause some problems.

Learn how to apply rim tape correctly. Do not use your fingers to press the tape into the valley or channel of your rim. Use and press/chase with a soft cloth instead. Push out any trapped air bubbles.

Spoke holes can slice or cut rim tape …especially alloy rims. Sometimes a small burr is left during the manufacture process. A small round slice, in the plastic insert or rim tape, can act like a flap to release air. Psi can slowly escape through the spoke holes or small rim vents. ( Very difficult to seal, detect or see).

I discard the Bontrager rim insert when I install a new tire and use a correct width rim tape instead. I’ve had two Bontrager plastic rim inserts fail.

 

[Ribinrobin]

Using a specific width rim tape for your rim is helpful. (30mm tape for a 30mm rim.) Don’t tape up the walls of your rim. This could cause some problems.

Learn how to apply rim tape correctly. Do not use your fingers to press the tape into the valley or channel of your rim. Use and press/chase with a soft cloth instead. Push out any trapped air bubbles.

Spoke holes can slice or cut rim tape …especially alloy rims. Sometimes a small burr is left during the manufacture process. A small round slice, in the plastic insert or rim tape, can act like a flap to release air. Psi can slowly escape through the spoke holes or small rim vents. ( Very difficult to seal, detect or see).

I discard the Bontrager rim insert when I install a new tire and use a correct width rim tape instead. I’ve had two Bontrager plastic rim inserts fail.

Thanks for the detailed response!

 

[EnduroIntern]

Finally giving up on the stock tyres, i have a mary/betty to go on. A friend said the bontrager carbon wheels are a nightmare to get tyres seated on and you have to change rim tape? can anyone confirm this?

I don't mind the bonti rim tape.
It is harder to sit some tyres.
Exo+ is fine to take on or off. DH casing is impossible and would not reccomend

 

[Mark C]

Been enjoying my exe for two years and about 10km riding now. A recent issue has been the motor making an intermittent grinding sound and power drop off (down to 100 to 200W) when climbing hills. A pause brings the power back up temporarily but then drops off again on next hill. I wonder if this is the over heating sensor cutting the power, perhaps due to friction? This is a replacement motor from about 18 months ago and this problem was apparent for long hill climbs from early on. But it is much worse now despite the outside temperature being only about 5C? Anyone else experienced anything like this? I am guessing it will need to go back to the Trek dealer again, sigh.

 

[njatherton]

Been enjoying my exe for two years and about 10km riding now. A recent issue has been the motor making an intermittent grinding sound and power drop off (down to 100 to 200W) when climbing hills. A pause brings the power back up temporarily but then drops off again on next hill. I wonder if this is the over heating sensor cutting the power, perhaps due to friction? This is a replacement motor from about 18 months ago and this problem was apparent for long hill climbs from early on. But it is much worse now despite the outside temperature being only about 5C? Anyone else experienced anything like this? I am guessing it will need to go back to the Trek dealer again, sigh.

For the first time in 2 years I felt like I had something similar last night whilst out riding. Temperature was around 3C (35F). I had just done a short steep climb in high power then when I went down to mid power the motor felt like it was dragging & wouldn't speed up. I'm hoping it is just the cold

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Has anyone out there had the Trek Central app stop recording your rides? I’ve tried everything to get it to work. My software is up-to-date, I deleted the app and reinstall it on my iPhone, I deleted its Bluetooth from my iPhone and reconnected it, I’ve reset the bike and I keep the app open and connected while I’m riding. When I stop a ride on the app that is being recorded, it says something like, insufficient data. Everything else works, along with the odometer and hour meter, just not the ride tracking.

 

[njatherton]

Has anyone out there had the Trek Central app stop recording your rides? I’ve tried everything to get it to work. My software is up-to-date, I deleted the app and reinstall it on my iPhone, I deleted its Bluetooth from my iPhone and reconnected it, I’ve reset the bike and I keep the app open and connected while I’m riding. When I stop a ride on the app that is being recorded, it says something like, insufficient data. Everything else works, along with the odometer and hour meter, just not the ride tracking.

Check the cache is empty after reloading. You could also try deleting all data but you will lose your recorded rides.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Check the cache is empty after reloading. You could also try deleting all data but you will lose your recorded rides.

Cache in my iPhone?

 

[JP-NZ]

Has anyone out there had the Trek Central app stop recording your rides? I’ve tried everything to get it to work. My software is up-to-date, I deleted the app and reinstall it on my iPhone, I deleted its Bluetooth from my iPhone and reconnected it, I’ve reset the bike and I keep the app open and connected while I’m riding. When I stop a ride on the app that is being recorded, it says something like, insufficient data. Everything else works, along with the odometer and hour meter, just not the ride tracking.

Have you checked under privacy, allow precise location?

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Have you checked under privacy, allow precise location?

View attachment 154376

I just checked and that’s the way mine is.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Automatic Ride Tracking was off in the Trek Central app. I turned it on, but that didn’t solve my issue.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

I just noticed that I didn’t have a map downloaded. So I think what happened was somehow automatic ride tracking got switched off. When I deleted the app and put the app back on my phone, I didn’t download a map. We’ll see what happens on my next ride.

 

[JP-NZ]

Was going to say the Trek Central app worked pretty seamlessly when I first downloaded it a week or so ago.

 

[njatherton]

Cache in my iPhone?

App's cache on the iPhone

 

[Canyon Shawn]

App's cache on the iPhone

Ok sorry, how do I do that?

 

[njatherton]

Ok sorry, how do I do that?

Iphone, not sure, I'm an Android - under settings/apps/TrekCentral/storage are 2 icons: clear data & clear cache.
Probably something similar on Apple....or not - Apple's weird.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Iphone, not sure, I'm an Android - under settings/apps/TrekCentral/storage are 2 icons: clear data & clear cache.
Probably something similar on Apple....or not - Apple's weird.

Mine doesn’t seem to have that.

 

[njatherton]

Mine doesn’t seem to have that.
View attachment 154379

Sorry, as I said, I don't know iphone, I use a proper phone

 

[JayX2A]

Any opinions on the RSL bars? They have the perfect back sweep for me and the perfect 45mm stem length. I have found some for the some for just a tad more than the stem/bar combo I was looking at.

 

[Twisted Fork]

Any opinions on the RSL bars?

I quite like them. They are considerably more stiff than, for example, OneUp bars but I don’t find that stiffness translates into any discernible discomfort at all. It translates more into very precise steering feedback in heavy chonk. I would actually consider adding them to another bike too if they weren’t so dang expensive. The only issue I have with them is the quasi-rectangular cross section of the middle half of the bars means that mounting a light, gps or other accessories is awkward without buying the Blendr out-front mounts.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Any opinions on the RSL bars? They have the perfect back sweep for me and the perfect 45mm stem length. I have found some for the some for just a tad more than the stem/bar combo I was looking at.

Way too stiff and the bend is weird. It bends down. The bend of a bar should be the direction of the shoulder joints. And, you can’t turn them to adjust them. Buy a OneUp carbon bar and enjoy the comfort on your hands. They are wonderful. Stiff where they need to be and compliant where they should be.
Branded bike parts like that are just one step above cheap Chinese bike parts. I say one step above because, although I think they’re safe, they do nothing to enhance your ride. If you’re going to spend that kind of money, buy quality parts that will actually make your ride better. For me, those parts, get replaced before I even ride the bike.

 

[JayX2A]

Way too stiff and the bend is weird. It bends down. The bend of a bar should be the direction of the shoulder joints. And, you can’t turn them to adjust them. Buy a OneUp carbon bar and enjoy the comfort on your hands. They are wonderful. Stiff where they need to be and compliant where they should be.
Branded bike parts like that are just one step above cheap Chinese bike parts. I say one step above because, although I think they’re safe, they do nothing to enhance your ride. If you’re going to spend that kind of money, buy quality parts that will actually make your ride better. For me, those parts, get replaced before I even ride the bike.

Going to try my mates 780mm oneups and 42mm stem. They are 20mm rise so not sure if that’s enough. However I did try higher rise before and front end was a bit loose so 20s might be fine.

 

[Canyon Shawn]

Going to try my mates 780mm oneups and 42mm stem. They are 20mm rise so not sure if that’s enough. However I did try higher rise before and front end was a bit loose so 20s might be fine.

Well, it’s a myth that it will make your front end loose or take weight off the front end. Ride loose with your hands and arms and push your weight through your legs and feet. You’re still on the bike between the two wheels and gravity still works the same. Also reset rear sag. You’ll be fine.

 

[JayX2A]

Well, it’s a myth that it will make your front end loose or take weight off the front end. Ride loose with your hands and arms and push your weight through your legs and feet. You’re still on the bike between the two wheels and gravity still works the same. Also reset rear sag. You’ll be fine.

Will try the 20mm rise and if they seem to low get the 35mm. Getting older now so a more upright position might help a bit! Are you running the higher rise ones?

 

[irie]

Well, it’s a myth that it will make your front end loose or take weight off the front end. Ride loose with your hands and arms and push your weight through your legs and feet. You’re still on the bike between the two wheels and gravity still works the same. Also reset rear sag. You’ll be fine.

So he'd go for 50mm bars?

Don't really know why my high bars work but they do, might be because i can move your weight around to what makes the bike work best. Perhaps also helps, as Mrs irie says, to have gorilla arms.

PNW carbon loam 38mm bars with an uncut steerer and 5mm rise stem.