I went with UK store Twenty 20...it took about a week to get to AZ. But the LBS bike shop in Tx has Hope in stock (just not purple at the time). The Acros from Germany was a week and a half??? Fairly fast overall.
I started out with Miranda carbon which I really like but they are 170 and could not find shorter. I ended up with FSA CK from ebay 155 for only $35 but that seller is out now. Not light but durable. But they should be around elsewhere.
Do you know what the q factor on the ones supplied by bafang are compared to your fsa? I want to run some carbon ones but scared to run any from non brand name companies. Ive seen too many people snap crank arms.
Lol yah i remember seeing it, had no luck finding it. Ill keep searching thanks.
www.emtbforums.com
Is this CEF50 frame? just wondering the main frame body has cable routing inlet. Did you DIY drill it? Or is this the lastest stock?
Oh. Just wondering why did you DIY . Ya, headset routing is a failure design. It expect all user to run wireless systems. Thanks for the swift reply.
A few were able to do the ICR headset using specifically and only (so far) the Nukeproof/Token ZS56 ICR headset. We put up a separate thread on the subject.
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True. The cutouts were an update that SZZS offered on the later frame as an option.
If you mean the 480Wh/48v battery I have been using it for more than a month with satisfaction.
Hello. what is your approximate range with a 48wh battery?
I constat +- the same low comsumtion, It's the raison why i thing that 480 will be enough and i have orderd one to replace my 600W.I make a translated copy/paste of a small report written on the Italian emtb forum:
"As is clear, the beautiful weekend proved to be a good opportunity to test the bike.
Day 1: before departure I adjusted the parameters on the 5 levels as per the following screen, leaving only the Boost mode at 100% to check the 75Nm declared on this little engine and get an idea of the consumption."
View attachment 140424
The distance of the tour was 27km with a total altitude difference of just over 1,200m; approximately 13 km of asphalt, on these used Tour mode in the uphill sections and Eco in the flat sections, the rest of the route is all trail with the most varied characteristics: technical and rocky sections with both positive difference in altitude and downhill, steep on loose surfaces, fast on compact surface, heavy with mud from the recent rains... in short, for all tastes.
On the off-road sections I didn't spare myself in using high assistance in the most difficult passages: bad and muddy sections, maximum assistance.
Tour time including picnic 3 hours, consumption detected on arrival less than half of the 480Wh available.
Day 2: climb on a path that is sometimes very rough, exposed at the top, great attention...6 km for 900 m of altitude covered in just over an hour including photo stops and to check the engine temperature as I wanted keep the highest assistance levels, Sport/sport+/Boost throughout the ascent, to check whether or not it tends to heat up: no overheating detected; great engine, smooth and powerful, the Boost mode is very powerful and, thanks to its 75Nm, it gets in the way in any situation.
Battery consumption in the second short ride was 45%
It's important to add that I'm a pretty light rider"
Forgive me if you read possible heresies in the automatic translation.
Feedback
ok that means 2 rides. 33 km 2100 m altitude. and there is approx. 5-10% battery left?I make a translated copy/paste of a small report written on the Italian emtb forum:
"As is clear, the beautiful weekend proved to be a good opportunity to test the bike.
Day 1: before departure I adjusted the parameters on the 5 levels as per the following screen, leaving only the Boost mode at 100% to check the 75Nm declared on this little engine and get an idea of the consumption."
View attachment 140424
The distance of the tour was 27km with a total altitude difference of just over 1,200m; approximately 13 km of asphalt, on these used Tour mode in the uphill sections and Eco in the flat sections, the rest of the route is all trail with the most varied characteristics: technical and rocky sections with both positive difference in altitude and downhill, steep on loose surfaces, fast on compact surface, heavy with mud from the recent rains... in short, for all tastes.
On the off-road sections I didn't spare myself in using high assistance in the most difficult passages: bad and muddy sections, maximum assistance.
Tour time including picnic 3 hours, consumption detected on arrival less than half of the 480Wh available.
Day 2: climb on a path that is sometimes very rough, exposed at the top, great attention...6 km for 900 m of altitude covered in just over an hour including photo stops and to check the engine temperature as I wanted keep the highest assistance levels, Sport/sport+/Boost throughout the ascent, to check whether or not it tends to heat up: no overheating detected; great engine, smooth and powerful, the Boost mode is very powerful and, thanks to its 75Nm, it gets in the way in any situation.
View attachment 140426
Battery consumption in the second short ride was 45%
It's important to add that I'm a pretty light rider"
Forgive me if you read possible heresies in the automatic translation.
Feedback
how long can you drive with one battery charge?
So, new headset arrived today.
View attachment 130257
I'll do my best to explain each piece to avoid any misinterpretations.
View attachment 130258
Starting with the headset top cover, you'll note that three of the holes are specific for either a gear outer cable or brake hose (depending on your preference for cable routing and orientation.
View attachment 130260
Whereas the bigger hole is specific for 1 to 2 cables from the wiring loom/harness.
View attachment 130261
Moving to the upper headset ring, four slots have been made to allow each of the cables to pass through the upper headset without interfering or cross-cabling when preloading the headset.
View attachment 130262
Take note that the upper part of the ring is aluminium. Whereas the core body of the ring is plastic.
View attachment 130263
From what I've been told, making the body of the ring out of plastic should prevent cables from getting scored or tarnished through steering. But I suspect that this peice 'may' require replacing at some stage, (possibly before the upper headset bearing).
View attachment 130264
Regardless, I'd still recommend using grease. Especially on the ring, to prevent it from seizing to the fork steerer to ensure easy disassembly when the time comes.
View attachment 130265
The orientation of the headset upper ring to the headset top cover isn't difficult to fathom.
View attachment 130266
And the use of the metal piece on the ring should enable the headset to preload equally without unwanted distribution of force (which would have made the ring overall questionable in terms of longevity if it was all plastic).
View attachment 130267
Moving to the upper headset cup. Whilst it is a zs56 cup, you'll note that one side has a groove on the top.
View attachment 130268
In addition, the depth of the zs56 upper headset cup is bigger than most I've seen previously. Rest assured, it is designed to fully seat into the headtube of the CEF50 frame.
View attachment 130269
Looking at the zs56 headset cup from underneath, you'll see that the headset cup has a curved lip. Again, different to most zs56 cups. Usually, they have ridged edges to allow easier headset cup installation (when using a headset press).
View attachment 130271
Not much to say about the bearing. It feels smooth. But I tend to run bearings for headsets which offer a greater lifespan.
View attachment 130272
Nevertheless, you can see that the depth of the zs56 upper cup Is deeper. Again, please use grease when assembling the headset.
View attachment 130273
Please note, that this is the orientation in which the ring should face in conjunction with the headset cup. The ingressed part of the headset upper cup should be installed facing towards the back.
View attachment 130274
DO NOT install in this orientation, as you run the risk of preventing your steering from fully turning the full 180°+.
View attachment 130275
But like I said, you get the gist of what the upper headset looks like. The above image shows the orientation facing forward. Essentially, the writing should be on the back.
View attachment 130276
This is what the headset upper assembly will look like when facing towards the bike from the front.
View attachment 130277
Again, you can see that the ring and the headset top cover are designed to have the cables pass through it without crossing or tarnishing when preloading the headset.
View attachment 130278
Moving to the lower headset cup, this zs66 is similar to others I've seen.
View attachment 130279
The outer lip of the cup is ridged.
View attachment 130280
And the depth is no different compared to others. Essentially, if you already have a zs66 lower headset cup installed, you don't technically need to swap it.
View attachment 130281
Again, nothing to say or add about the bearing. It spin free.
View attachment 130282
And you can always keep them as spares. Or you can use. Your choice
View attachment 130283
Like I said, you don't need to swap the lower headset cup if you have one already installed. Believe me, its the same headset cup as what you already have.
View attachment 130284
The headset comes with optional crown races, depending on whether you chose to use a 1.5 tapered fork or a 1.8 supertapered fork. The above image is the 1.5 crown race.
View attachment 130286
The crown race itself doesn't have a rubber seal around it. Unlike other headset (UK made headsets) which I'm more familiar with.
View attachment 130287
You can see a slight gap between the race and the lower headset cup where the bearing is visible. Crown races aren't specific to a particular headset manufacturer. Rather, they're specific to a headset cup size, bearing diameter and fork steerer diameter. So basically, a crown race which uses a seal which is designed for the exact same headset cup will work and prevent the lower bearing from prematurely wearing out quicker.
View attachment 130288
Remember, the lower headset cup IS IDENTICAL to other zs66 headset cups.
View attachment 130289
The same thing for the 1.8 crown race as well.
View attachment 130290 No seal around the crown race.
View attachment 130291
And again, you can see the bearing showing. But like I said, a different crown race (from Hope, Works Components, Superstar Components etc) will work. Just make sure the crown race is designed for a zs66 headset cup
View attachment 130292
So hopefully, I've explained this new headset. Again, there are some questions I have about the longevity side of things. Particularly, the upper ring. But the headset top cover seems decent. And I'd even go as far as to say that it's not just designed for an ebike which uses the Bafang system. Speaking of, View attachment 130293
You'll forgive me for choosing to use this headset with this Nukeproof Megawatt which also uses the same headset cable routing. And I can easily compare and contrast between,
View attachment 130294
This new headset.
View attachment 130295
And the original. FYI, I haven't had issues with this headset so far.
Thanks for reading and I'll keep you all updated
Oh yeah, no star nut, 5mm bolt or headset top cap included with this headsetView attachment 130270
a.aliexpress.com
