Correct, as of 2023, but do understand that I purchased my E10 before it had media presence shall we say, Dengfu offered a deal which I couldn’t refuse being a very very early adopter. In mitigation to myself, you can get remarkable deals on slightly used components. My Z1 forks were £170.00 delivered to my door, hardly a mark on them, my full Hope brake set I already had along with all the other components such as a 10spd Shimano group set ( you will thank me in the long term if you use only 10spd set ups ) on a top of the line analogue bike. I sold the frame which paid for the Z1’s. I built my own battery using the best quality cells saving large amounts of cash and weight. But then only a few can take on this type of build. Yes you can build cheaply with top components. Incidentally my E10 is 23.5kgs.Unless you bought your frame, motor and battery used. You are not going to get those prices from Dengfu and then that does not include any other parts. Unless you had all the parts anyway and then it is not accurate for anyone else.
True!you will thank me in the long term if you use only 10spd set ups
Bravely done! Welcome to the unicorn build! It should be interesting to compare experiences.A lot of reference here.
I decided on 36v 720wh and it is said to be shipped next week.
I Believe and wait...
You bring up good points. But you also show that most people probably can't do what you did. Getting good deals is a lot a matter of timing and good luck in shopping. Also being your own "product manger" is not without pitfalls. Making sure everything works with everything else is a challenge and if you make mistakes, which is easy to do these days with all the proprietary products, then you lose money.Correct, as of 2023, but do understand that I purchased my E10 before it had media presence shall we say, Dengfu offered a deal which I couldn’t refuse being a ...
I'm waiting on Transition warranty to hear back.My invoice says 3 year warranty on CEF50 frame.
If this is true does that mean that a coil shock would be a better choice than a air shock?This looks VERY progressive to me. Starting at a leverage ratio of 3.6 at beginning of stroke and ending with a leverage ratio of 2.5 at end of stroke. Compared to the E10: 3.1 to 2.6 according to chart attached.
My takeaway:
- Coil shock would be a better choice due to linear spring rate
- Overstroking 216/63 would raise the rear by (6mm longer shock x 2,5 ratio) 15 mm and increase travel by (13 mm increased stroke x 2,5 ratio) 32,5 mm! to 180+ mm rear travel!
- Overstroking 210/55 would increase rear travel (5 mm increased stroke x 2,5 ratio) by 12,5 mm to appr. 162,5 mm
Sound promising!
If this is true does that mean that a coil shock would be a better choice than a air shock?
Yeah, same for Transition frame weight for large in my case...they were wiley.I did try and get a frame weight out of Transition and they stated " since we don't have production models of those physically here yet, we have not weighed them yet..."
I asked them about the possible 2# weight gain & loss of frame strength from the removable battery and they stated: "we have to use more material in the layup for strength and stiffness compared to a closed cross section tube. In our case it's definitely not a 2lb weight penalty..."
Saving money is great, but first and foremost I want the best frame & motor I can get. I do believe the F60 is the best mid power motor if being stealth is important to you, and it certainly is to me. Transition geo is always spot on. Then I just try and find the best frame only price.
But this is a BIG price difference!
I'm still watching the Relay (have a deposit and even ordered a CF DH rear 27.5" wheel), but also carefully watching for the new Spesh Levo SL and of course the CEF50, which is a heck of a product.
PS. Just me, if I had 11k+....for two lbs more, I would go Orbea Wild LTD EP8-85/625Wh battery. Guaranteed true, full-powered and a bigger battery to support needed capacity.Yeah, same for Transition frame weight for large in my case...they were wiley.
I think they did a great job quality-wise. Can't beat lifetime warranty/support!
Really setting a gold standard for this Enduro/"trailduro" mid-powered weight class. I agree that easy swappable battery is key. I would just backpack a full spare for me. I could live with that EXCEPT for motor power, reliability and serviceability.
It's the Fazua60! I found it better than the TQ50, but less impressive than the RS60 for turbo/boost. Ridden them all in the past 6 months. But, depends on expectations from baseline. If you ride full-powered the RS60 does it but barely. If you ride analogue, they all are awesome!
The M820-75 is the unicorn motor. 75-95 Nm peak is freakishly curious. RobRides should flesh out the fat!
I guess so I am looking for recommendations, I don't have any expertise.Make sense?
"Power is power!" Should be no difference according to one EE and one ME on this thread. Your choice! 36v gets the 360 or the 720. 48v gets the 410.Is the 36v or 43v motor better for this build, what is the difference?
The 43v is better because the power cables from the battery can be smaller. Power is the same. If you have two batteries of the same watt-hours and one is 43v and one 36v then it is the same energy stored. The more voltage the smaller the copper cables, which is lighter(a bit). But in reality they probably use the same larger cables for both units for economy of scale in manufacturing.Thank you
On the coil I was super interested until I started hitting the higher spring rates...the coil weight was increasing too much. And an adjustable Springdex was possible with a lighter steel spring but I was still pushing the limits. Hence my Ultimate Meg-neg air...saving some critical lbs on my burly Enduro build.The 43v is better because the power cables from the battery can be smaller. Power is the same. If you have two batteries of the same watt-hours and one is 43v and one 36v then it is the same energy stored. The more voltage the smaller the copper cables, which is lighter(a bit). But in reality they probably use the same larger cables for both units for economy of scale in manufacturing.
So it may not make any difference. I think it might be easier to find a third party external battery for 36v than 43v. Just from my shopping around.
But a 410whr battery is gong to take you on a little longer ride than the 360whr battery. It does not matter what the voltage is. Watt hours is watt hours. It will also be a little heavier. Trade-offs.
I have never understood the love with coil shocks. They are heavier than air shocks. The coils are also only made in certain weight increments so it is likely you are going to have to compromise on the weight being not close to what you actually weight and you have to do some real guessing what coil to get given the details of your rear suspension system.
With an air shock you can pump them up to exact the right amount for you.
If you mean internet link?Just to be sure What link are you using for this frame and motor combination?
I'm sure it will meet your power and range needs as you described.I've read all the messages on this build and it's been an incredible amount of helpful thoughts, considerations and opinions. So let me just say thank you for starting all of this. So, Ok I did it, made the purchase this morning. XL, had them paint it based on a sample image I gave them. Going with a 720wh battery. I asked them about smaller cranks than the 170's it comes with. Linda told me that Bafang are working on 160's but not yet. That's ok I'll just get some after it arrives. Very curious about the feel of the power delivery. I don't need a huge punch but I want to know it's supporting me.
I have a KSL right now and I love it. It's the best uphill/downhill I've ever owned. It's my first e-bike so I've never owned anything that can produce high torque (80-90nm) and power (+500w). That said, I am fit 6'2" 180lbs, I can put out 350-450 watts for a couple of mins on a punchy climb. However the KSL match is limited to 290 watts of output. I can usisally get about 2hrs of riding out of it. But I did buy the extender.
So with all of that in mind, with upgrades to brakes and tires, the bike sits in at 43.5lbs. I'm not complaining but if I want to use something more than eco mode then I really need the range extender bringing the weight up to 46.5 lbs. To quote my buddy with FF Kenevo, "I just need to figure out where to drop 4lbs to get to KSL weight?".
So when you think about range and what you need vs not need. I ride a variety (I think most people do as well) of trails some tight and technical. Some are downhill chunky monkeys and everything in between. So at some point you are going to want to do something that ~400wh's isn't going to be enough for and for that I'd say get the 720wh and forget about it. With 75nm at disposal I'm thinking you're going to have all the support you will need to get up and down.
People talk about playful bikes and I think given a single bike, I will make it behave playful enough for me. Which may mean more upper body workouts. I want my rides to be fun, turning the power up allows me to turn cross country into intermediate downhill. I love that an eMTB can do that. I don't really want to have to calculate how far with how much can I go today.
That said I am taking my 2022 stump jumper EVO and stripping it for GX drive train, code R brakes, 223 rotors, Nuke proof horizon V2's (and a new 27.5 for the mullet), Fox 36 160mm (probably though in a new 170MM airshaft) in front and Float X in back (165mm travel mod with 210x55). I've purchased the hardware from lost co for the shock fit.
I love to work on, build bikes and the most frustrating thing about a Specialized eBike is that I have to go to a dealer for any "e" related work (software, hardware etc). This project has afforded me a bit more idependence at a price point that is less than 2k USD.
That said I"m looking forward to seeing some wattage output numbers that riders are seeing on their new M820s.
Thanks for all the help
Andrew
HahhaaaaaaAnd I don't have a sugar mama
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