Yozha
New Member
After pressing the cup out, there was a thin slightly sticky layer left on it and in the frame - I just applied fresh loctite.When u popped it off did the original glue stay on the cup or the frame?
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After pressing the cup out, there was a thin slightly sticky layer left on it and in the frame - I just applied fresh loctite.When u popped it off did the original glue stay on the cup or the frame?
But, I wonder how DJI is doing it with their new drive system. I think the AMFLOW bike featuring DJI electronics has a carbon top tube integrated frame display connected to two handlebar remotes wirelessly via Bluetooth.It may not be possible. Carbon fiber is a mild conductor and the frame may act as a shield block the bluetooth signal.
probably they put BT antenna in the display so that it's not enclosed by the carbon on all sides. anyway, it's not like the carbon shell makes good quality faraday cage. first, graphite is not as good a conductor as metals, second, the fibers are sandwitched with resin which increases the insulation, third, the shell isn't grounded. I believe even in this thread there are folks who use BT comms to BMS hidden inside the downtube, so this doesn't look like a big issue. they could even glue film with microstrip antenna on the outside of the carbon shell close to handlebar to lower energy consumption by the controllerBut, I wonder how DJI is doing it with their new drive system. I think the AMFLOW bike featuring DJI electronics has a carbon top tube integrated frame display connected to two handlebar remotes wirelessly via Bluetooth.
Alright then! Let's get Bafang engineering on it!probably they put BT antenna in the display so that it's not enclosed by the carbon on all sides. anyway, it's not like the carbon shell makes good quality faraday cage. first, graphite is not as good a conductor as metals, second, the fibers are sandwitched with resin which increases the insulation, third, the shell isn't grounded. I believe even in this thread there are folks who use BT comms to BMS hidden inside the downtube, so this doesn't look like a big issue. they could even glue film with microstrip antenna on the outside of the carbon shell close to handlebar to lower energy consumption by the controller
Thanks for your replies.1. There is no "canonical" way, there are some hacks documented in the forum
2. The engine provides 12V/0.5A via the light cable, so the choice is limited to lights < 6W. You can hack a circuit which will use the light cable to switch main battery output to the light via optocoupler, I documented one such device on a breadboard in the forum
3. The OEM ICR headset is crap, dunno what they pack if you order frame with side holes for cable routing, see the threads about headsets Non-ICR headset, internal frame cable guide conversion for the SZZS-specific CEF50 | ICR Headsets for the SZZS-specific CEF50 build
4. See Bafang M820 Firmware thread Generally use FW matching your engine's voltage.
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1. Honestly I believe there's no real reason to use chain guide. I haven't experienced a single chain drop in a regular use during my ~2500km of fairly aggressive riding. The narow-wide profile of included Scenix chainring + clutch on my M8100 derailleur retain chain very well.
2. I use Lezyne eBike Micro Drive 500 High Voltage (powered from main battery via aforementioned switching device)
there is none, I investigated this area. many folks will tell that with good riding habits (decrease tension on pedals while shifting) none is needed in torque-sensing engine. the problem I see is that the engine shutoff isn't immediate after you stop pushing on pedals and there is a slight "overrun" which will often lead to engine executing the shift with lots of force.Thanks for your replies.
Do you guys know if there is a compatible shift sensor for M820 ?
I ordered a 3D printed small clamp for my old M600 display from a local print shop two years ago. That was $30 USD. I can only think something 10x the size as the motor guard would unlikely retail under $200 USD.. Also, I broke it on the install, too brittle and no choice on the type of plastic.Yesterday I went to a local manufacturer of carbon fiber parts - it turns out to be quite a complicated process. You need a geometrically correct part, a matrix is made on its base, and layers of carbon fiber are glued onto the matrix. Making one cover for the engine will cost 250-300USD.
But I was recommended a good manufacturer of 3D parts.
Guys, do you think it is possible to print a strong cover at once on a 3D printer and what kind of plastic should be used for this (I don't understand anything about it at all)?
Friends, I ordered a cover seal from a trusted supplier. At the consultation the manufacturer said that the problem of our protection is poor adhesion between the layers of plastic. My cover will be made of TOTAL GF-10 plastic, which has good adhesion between the layers and is strong enough for our purposes.I ordered a 3D printed small clamp for my old M600 display from a local print shop two years ago. That was $30 USD. I can only think something 10x the size as the motor guard would unlikely retail under $200 USD.. Also, I broke it on the install, too brittle and no choice on the type of plastic.
It might make sense if you have access to your own 3-D printer and are just paying material costs.Obviously, most of us don't have that level of 3-D printer access.
Please. Maintain us informed. Shows promisingFriends, I ordered a engine cover from a trusted supplier. At the consultation the manufacturer said that the problem of our protection is poor adhesion between the layers of plastic. My cover will be made of TOTAL GF-10 plastic, which has good adhesion between the layers and is strong enough for our purposes.
The main thing now is that the 3D model I found a few pages ago is correct. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks I will have a ready copy on my hands.
TOTAL PRO GF 10 - reference to the plastic. From the description it looks goodPlease. Maintain us informed. Shows promising
How much did your initial order cost?Friends, I ordered a engine cover from a trusted supplier. At the consultation the manufacturer said that the problem of our protection is poor adhesion between the layers of plastic. My cover will be made of TOTAL GF-10 plastic, which has good adhesion between the layers and is strong enough for our purposes.
The main thing now is that the 3D model I found a few pages ago is correct. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks I will have a ready copy on my hands.
About 100USD. The manufacturer said that the price is minimal and they will not reduce it if the quantity increases. I ordered two engine protectors - for myself and my friend (he has already ordered the frame))))How
How much did your initial order cost?
Sounds like a fair price.About 100USD. The manufacturer said that the price is minimal and they will not reduce it if the quantity increases. I ordered two engine protectors - for myself and my friend (he has already ordered the frame))))
I've run a 55 stroke on a large frame since last year no problem. But like you said try it first and see how it fits for you. I luv it!Hi! I placed an order for a CEF50 frame on Alibaba (size L purple chameleon, 48V 700WH battery), waiting for shipment.
I have now cane creek DB kitsuma air shock from my Deviate Highlander (size 210*55)
Can I use it on CEF50 without modification? Or 55mm stroke will be too much?
I know, that stroke on DB can be reduced (Cane Creek Suspension Support - Cane Creek Cycling Components) by 5mm very easy
So what is better - use it as it is, or reduce to 210*50?
thanks!
Rough estimate: 150 mm OEM (210 x 50 shock) on a 50 mm stroke. 150 mm/50mm = 3 or 3:1 leverage ratio. Learned it from Mtbr.com a few years ago. Or just Google it.Can you tell me where I can find the breakdown of the frame suspension travel to stroke? 50, 52,5 , 55?
55 mm. 165 mm
Possibly. But remember that the seat stays have no crossbridge to contact. I run a 27.5x2.8 tire. It's 28.75"tall with great clearance from the seat tube. A 29er should also clear it. But if not, then just shorten the stroke or go 27.5 wheel and keep the overstroke. Experiment. The bigger travel is worth it. IMHOThat's why I'm aware about keeping 55mm stroke - maybe the wheel can hit the frame
No risks for contact between wheel and frame. BUT verify mechanical translation available for the swing arms/stays/bases at level of the axes.That's why I'm aware about keeping 55mm stroke - maybe the wheel can hit the frame
How did you verify that 55 did not fit? i think i have the newest frame and could test it...No risks for contact between wheel and frame. BUT verify mechanical translation available for the swing arms/stays/bases at level of the axes.
May be SZZS have modified their frame ? but on mine 55 don't fit and i use 53 mm
You mesure the length available between the rear shock axes (shock removed). With swing arm fully compresed (axes design provide mechanical limit), to verified if you have less than 155 mm available (210 - 55).How did you verify that 55 did not fit? i think i have the newest frame and could test it...
I'll have to put some Volume Tokens inside my Damper anyways and therefore need to take it out. I'll try to measure this after your instructions.You mesure the length available between the rear shock axes (shock removed). With swing arm fully compresed (axes design provide mechanical limit), to verified if you have less than 155 mm available (210 - 55).
If you mesure exactely 155mm available, i recommand to use 53 (52.5), it's preferable to keep 2mm marging
With the frame assembled without shock, the axle spacing is 148,5 mm. The 29` wheel does not touch the frame at this. Frame size M.You mesure the length available between the rear shock axes (shock removed). With swing arm fully compresed (axes design provide mechanical limit), to verified if you have less than 155 mm available (210 - 55).
If you mesure exactely 155mm available, i recommand to use 53 (52.5), it's preferable to keep 2mm marging
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