Strive:ON problems

[Tieff]

I've no pic at hand now, but there are some in this forum or in the Strive:On forum.
As I said: they don't show the bosch parts on the exploded view.
The cables are in the cable channel that you can see under the battery. There are 6 cables (three on each side of the channel) from the motor side. Since the motor and the external charging socket are at the bottom, the cables from the upper battery bracket go down through the cable channel. (If you remove the battery bracket, you must also open the two covers of the cable channel first (simply pull it out upwards)). So you definitely can't lose the battery bracket in the down tube, because you can still pull it out again (carefully) using the cables. Also, the down tube isn't much deeper...

 

[SEBA]

I've no pic at hand now, but there are some in this forum or in the Strive:On forum.
As I said: they don't show the bosch parts on the exploded view.
The cables are in the cable channel that you can see under the battery. There are 6 cables (three on each side of the channel) from the motor side. Since the motor and the external charging socket are at the bottom, the cables from the upper battery bracket go down through the cable channel. (If you remove the battery bracket, you must also open the two covers of the cable channel first (simply pull it out upwards)). So you definitely can't lose the battery bracket in the down tube, because you can still pull it out again (carefully) using the cables. Also, the down tube isn't much deeper...

ouch ..

with the cables mess it's easy to disassemble the upper bracket

but a pain in the ass to put it back especialy with all the cables and hold it aligned to at least one hole ...

 

[SEBA]

got to slide these long plates to deliver the cable , maybe a touch of grease to put them back to slide them easy

 

[Tieff]

ouch ..

with the cables mess it's easy to disassemble the upper bracket

but a pain in the ass to put it back especialy with all the cables and hold it aligned to at least one hole ...

Yes, as I said it's not the most pleasant work. You should take a day off and be able to work in peace. But it's possible. And once you've done it, you can be sure that everything is OK... and of course you will know your bike better than before

 

[Tieff]

got to slide these long plates to deliver the cable , maybe a touch of grease to put them back to slide them easy

View attachment 145105

Yes, right for the cable covers, but be careful with the grease it should not be agressive to the cabels.

 

[SEBA]

Yes, as I said it's not the most pleasant work. You should take a day off and be able to work in peace. But it's possible. And once you've done it, you can be sure that everything is OK... and of course you will know your bike better than before

yep i know all my Shimano bike from every washer and bolt, but bosch eco system is mystery for me atm

 

[Tieff]

yep i know all my Shimano bike from every washer and bolt, but bosch eco system is mystery for me atm

The best reason to do this work, then you will know Bosch better...

 

[SEBA]

i suppose i have to put back the upper bracket first and pray for align hole with bolt

then the plate will slide easier as my 2 hands will be free , one for taking the cables in place in the "rail" as flat as possible a'd the 2nd hand to slide it at the same time

 

[SEBA]

how many cables are attached to the upper bracket ? if more than 1 , are they from the same cover plate ? ( because 2 cables from under EACH cover increase difficulty lol )

 

[Tieff]

i suppose i have to put back the upper bracket first and pray for align hole with bolt

then the plate will slide easier as my 2 hands will be free , one for taking the cables in place in the "rail" as flat as possible a'd the 2nd hand to slide it at the same time

Yes, right. And take care of the cables the ends of the plates (covers) are sharp.

 

[SEBA]

Yes, right. And take care of the cables the ends of the plates (covers) are sharp.

can grind a little the plate cover to make it rounder and therefore less sharp

 

[Tieff]

how many cables are attached to the upper bracket ? if more than 1 , are they from the same cover plate ? ( because 2 cables from under EACH cover increase difficulty lol )

Sorry, I didn't answer to this question.
If I'm not mistaken, it's enough to open the right side of the cable duct (see your picture below). On the left side there is the brake line, the shift cable and the seat post. But I have no idea if this is the same for every bike...

 

[SEBA]

maybe also some simple foam sheet around the battery can help 0 move ( not the expansive foam obviously)

 

[Tieff]

maybe also some simple foam sheet around the battery can help 0 move ( not the expansive foam obviously)

Yes, I've tried that too. Another option: wrap a bicycle tube around the battery and then pump it up once the battery is in. Both work somehow, but both are a tedious job of fiddling when removing the battery. The foam pad usually gets caught on the latch counterpart in the down tube and breaks, and the tube doesn't make it any easier to remove the battery. I'm currently using the Cascade Components Latch solution. It's super professional and has solved all problems so far. If everything is secure on the upper battery bracket, everything's OK. So far, anyway. I'll keep testing it and report back here from time to time. But so far: no problems and the battery can always be removed and installed without any problems, as originally intended by Canyon.

 

[Tieff]

This is a copy of my post from the 2024 Strive:ON forum, just for your convenience

So, now here is it, not as video but as photo-story, the famous @Mario Antony threadlock mod:
Before: Remove battery
1: Disassemble lower bracket (to slip in with your arm more easly)
2: Zip tie the cables (2 groups, left and right cable duct)
3: Remove the metal strips that protect the cables (just pull out by hand, no tools needed)
4: I didn't notice before but the ends of the metal strips are covered with tape, so no danger to damage the cables
5: Should look like this then
6: Put in your hand and grab the upper battery holder
7: Loosen the screws on the outside of the downtube
8: Pull the upper battery holder out (no worries it cannot fall back into the frame)
9: Loosen screws (Torx 25) (one by one)
10: Buy Loctite 243 (better do it before you start)
11: Apply Loctite to the screws and fasten to 5 Nm
12: Do the same with the other two srews (T20) and fasten to about 3 to 4 Nm
By the way: the grease you see on the battery terminals is pole grease. It helps prevent corrosion of the terminal pins.
Now comes the tricky part (better get someone with thin forearms to help you). Push the upper battery bracket back into the frame. Try to hit the two holes, when you've found one: put the screw in and... you've won, the other one is easy. Now do the remaining steps backwards and you're done. Cable ducts are easy. Half an hour all in all... Big peace of mind afterwards!! Have fun.

 

[InRustWeTrust]

Then it was my turn to get problems, the bike has only run 290 km. it started with me feeling like I was getting less assistance in all modes.

today when I was out cycling it started with cut outs and the display started to glow orange. I can fix it myself but feel I'd rather send the bike back and have canyon fix their junk bikes.

 

[whitymon]

Damn even if it seems easy to do, I guess people on the verge to buy a new striven might double think about that.

When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.

I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part

 

[InRustWeTrust]

Damn even if it seems easy to do, I guess people on the verge to buy a new striven might double think about that.

When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.

I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part

unfortunately it is not only Canyon that has this problem, but also orbea and scott have the same problem but not as much. so the fault lies with bosh. I think Canyon has become a bit more famous for this problem as they are one of the biggest bike brands and they sell more bikes than their competitors and then they get more spread if it is a mistake

 

[Tieff]

Damn even if it seems easy to do, I guess people on the verge to buy a new striven might double think about that.

When I think of it, all my canyon bike had some kind of know issue, none fixed, before buying - last time vaut the totally crappy headset of the acros for the spectral. Fault by design, they knew it, they just continue to sell it but gladly send you the fixed part.

I was thinking on ordering a Strive:ON CFR Underdog for my wife but meh ... feel painful to deal with such dumb design and have to order from US a part

... and believe me, bikes from other brands have problems that are just as annoying, if not more so: hidden cracks in the carbon frame, batteries that won't charge, internal cables that rattle (extremely annoying), cracking and grinding noises (also extremely annoying and hard to find), batteries overheating, rusting bearings, bad wheels, and so on, I've seen a lot. I don't want to defend Canyon or Bosch here (the question of who is to blame is not so clear), but we can start a general moaning thread and you'll see that a lot of things will appear.

 

[el.guillyt]

Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the headset for non-OEM one? I had replaced the shifting and seatpost cables and guides, and I found the plastic spacer for the cables broken, I think it's a pretty crappy design, it's a thin plastic piece, very flimsy, now the steering it's a bit stiff, there's some friction and I'm inclined to think it's this spacer not doing it's job properly anymore. I'm looking for a better option if there is such thing, any help would be appreciated!

 

[S1mmo]

Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the headset for non-OEM one? I had replaced the shifting and seatpost cables and guides, and I found the plastic spacer for the cables broken, I think it's a pretty crappy design, it's a thin plastic piece, very flimsy, now the steering it's a bit stiff, there's some friction and I'm inclined to think it's this spacer not doing it's job properly anymore. I'm looking for a better option if there is such thing, any help would be appreciated!

If you mean the plastic compression ring that the cables pass through you can replace it with this alloy one from Across.

I installed the alloy one and I can't notice much difference to be honest.
I still occasionally get a clicking noise if I lift the bike by the handlebars but it should be more durable.

compressionring icr aluminium + IPS for integrated cable routing

Compression ring made from aluminium for integrated cable routing (icr) including a internal protection sealing (ips) for additional protection of the headset bearings against moisture and dirt. Compatible with the semi-integrated acros...

acros-components.com

 

[whitymon]

Yeah usual drill, you can go canecreek for example with an heavy duty metal one and a way better dust cover.

 

[el.guillyt]

If you mean the plastic compression ring that the cables pass through you can replace it with this alloy one from Across.

I installed the alloy one and I can't notice much difference to be honest.
I still occasionally get a clicking noise if I lift the bike by the handlebars but it should be more durable.

compressionring icr aluminium + IPS for integrated cable routing

Compression ring made from aluminium for integrated cable routing (icr) including a internal protection sealing (ips) for additional protection of the headset bearings against moisture and dirt. Compatible with the semi-integrated acros...

acros-components.com

Mine is broken so, needs replacement anyway, I'll try that for now, many thanks!