Strive:ON problems

[Mikerb]

Do the 2 bolts ( one of which you showed was virtualy completely unscrewed) hold the battery connector into the black block housing that guides the battery into position to make the connection? If so, of course the actual connector would move and not be held at the correct height....at least on the side with the loose bolt. I'm not sure this would lead to the battery being able to move, and cause additional stress on the battery clamp however, since it is the black housing block that is supposed to hold the battery in position and that is intact. The damage to the terminals show the battery connector is not being held still and that alone could be the cause of disconnections. Certainly that connector in your bike is toast, and if that damage is due to arcing, the female connections in your battery are also likely to be damaged.

Have you checked whether the "loose bolt" is merely loose or if it has in fact stripped the threads it is supposed to screw into?
Your damage also raises the question whether what you found was damage caused by the battery moving due to a broken latch................or the other way around!!
Either way in your case, I would want both the battery and the battery connector changed under warranty.

Someone else in the thread a bove found that the aluminium section that connects the black housing to the down tube was loose, and that would certainly allow battery movement both lateral and vertical, and promote additional strain on the battery clamp.
So in summary I think you have found an additional equally important issue. At the end of the day your find may mean there are in fact multiple issues with the battery mounting on this bike.

 

[Nick314]

Quoting my self here, Canyon tech definitely didn't check everything over, the top battery connector/bracket has some issues: I had a loose bolt that didn't came out because the battery, I'm wondering if the bolt being out quite a bit, makes for a not so safe connection, as the battery had a stop avoiding it to sit completely on the connector/bracket (see pics) + the 2 metal parts on the bracket were misaligned...

A couple of tips to work with the top connector: the connector has to leads coming out of it, so you just need to remove the covers for the cables, and once you have the bolts holding the connector/bracket, you can just pull it out, to make things even easier, remove also the bottom bracket for the battery latch, it's only 2 bolts and will allow for better access for the connector/bracket to come out, and for your arm to get inside, you'll need your arm to hold the connector/bracket while you screw it back in place.

I've also noticed quite a bit of damage to the connector pins, I don't know what to do, I'm not sure to raise another warranty claim, as I don't trust anymore the canyon techs, or just order one with my own money, I think tomorrow I'll visit my friend, who is a Bosch certified tech and it's the only bike mechanic I trust, and see what he thinks

View attachment 125137 View attachment 125138 View attachment 125139 View attachment 125140 View attachment 125141

That's quite some scoring given the bike must still be relatively new!!

 

[el.guillyt]

Do the 2 bolts ( one of which you showed was virtualy completely unscrewed) hold the battery connector into the black block housing that guides the battery into position to make the connection? If so, of course the actual connector would move and not be held at the correct height....at least on the side with the loose bolt. I'm not sure this would lead to the battery being able to move, and cause additional stress on the battery clamp however, since it is the black housing block that is supposed to hold the battery in position and that is intact. The damage to the terminals show the battery connector is not being held still and that alone could be the cause of disconnections. Certainly that connector in your bike is toast, and if that damage is due to arcing, the female connections in your battery are also likely to be damaged.

Have you checked whether the "loose bolt" is merely loose or if it has in fact stripped the threads it is supposed to screw into?
Your damage also raises the question whether what you found was damage caused by the battery moving due to a broken latch................or the other way around!!
Either way in your case, I would want both the battery and the battery connector changed under warranty.

Someone else in the thread a bove found that the aluminium section that connects the black housing to the down tube was loose, and that would certainly allow battery movement both lateral and vertical, and promote additional strain on the battery clamp.
So in summary I think you have found an additional equally important issue. At the end of the day your find may mean there are in fact multiple issues with the battery mounting on this bike.

The other bolt seemed to hold the battery with no problem, it was quite solid when I had it on my hands and tried to wiggle it to find play, but the loose bolt was contacting the battery, as you can see in the picture, so there is the possibility that the battery was not held properly and what I think is more critical in this case, not letting the battery seat properly against the connector, if we factor the latch issue, I have my pockets full of lottery tickets for battery disconnection problems, the terminals in the battery side seem to be in better shape, I've seen before, in other applications, where 2 metal parts are in contact, one is softer than the other, precisely to protect the most critical/expensive part.

The loose bolt, was just that, a loose bolt, the threads are completely fine, and now all that hardware it's loctite'd!

I think it's a combination of all the factors, the loose bolt not letting the battery to be fully seated, which overstress the weak latch and with a broken latch, you'll have a lose battery, which damages further the connector.

Also seeing how they designed the battery system, makes me think that it's overcomplicated, the wires on the connector go to the motor, so there is extra length on the cables to make this happen, they could have done like specialised does, with the connection on the bottom, and even if you have to use a tool for this operation, you still have to use a tool to remove the bashguard, so make it in a way where you just use a single tool and have a proper battery holding system.

That's quite some scoring given the bike must still be relatively new!!

The bike has now 740km, latch was replaced by Canyon with 520km, more than scoring, I would say it's fretting, anyway, obviously it's damaged to an unacceptable condition

It's not the best picture, but you can appreciate where the loose bolt was contacting the battery, on the right edge of the battery

 

[eddie89]

Also seeing how they designed the battery system, makes me think that it's overcomplicated, the wires on the connector go to the motor, so there is extra length on the cables to make this happen, they could have done like specialised does, with the connection on the bottom, and even if you have to use a tool for this operation, you still have to use a tool to remove the bashguard, so make it in a way where you just use a single tool and have a proper battery holding system.

it makes sense that the plug is not at the bottom. So no water can simply penetrate. If the plug was at the bottom, it would have to be sealed, but Bosch system has no waterproof plug connections.

 

[el.guillyt]

it makes sense that the plug is not at the bottom. So no water can simply penetrate. If the plug was at the bottom, it would have to be sealed, but Bosch system has no waterproof plug connections.

I understand what you say, but it's relatively easy to make a waterproof seal, it might be enough just being splashproof, so I don't see this being the main goal with the connector on top design, but that's just my speculation

 

[Mikerb]

For solid downtube battery installations ( which are vastly better than cutaway downtubes) I have had 3 different implementations on 3 bikes. My 2020 Whyte E180 had the battery to motor connection plug at the bottom of the battery. It consisted a solid ally connector holder bolted to the downtube. I have never had any problems with that system but Whyte were subjected to criticism from reviewers about the difficulty of removing and replacing the battery.............again something I had no problems with...but then I only remove the battery about once a year! Anyway, as a result Whyte changed that approach for their 2023 bikes, adopting the Bosch rail system with the battery connector on the top of the battery and the battery latch on the bottom. I have a Whyte E160 RSX that has that system..........again it has not caused me any issues, although like Canyon Whyte has experienced a few latch failures........although only in the last few months it would appear despite selling bikes with that latch for more than a year now.
Specialized have used a completely different approach ever since 2018/2019. The battery charging terminal is exposed on one side at the bottom of the downtube and the battery to motor cable connect directly into it using a Rosenberger ( magnetic) connector. That connector is superior to the Bosch type connector because connecting/disconnecting it does not cause wear but it has its own downsides, mostly to do with keeping it clean and well protected.
I think the only viable alternative for Canyon to their existing system is to fully implement the Bosch rail system.

 

[Nick314]

For solid downtube battery installations ( which are vastly better than cutaway downtubes) I have had 3 different implementations on 3 bikes. My 2020 Whyte E180 had the battery to motor connection plug at the bottom of the battery. It consisted a solid ally connector holder bolted to the downtube. I have never had any problems with that system but Whyte were subjected to criticism from reviewers about the difficulty of removing and replacing the battery.............again something I had no problems with...but then I only remove the battery about once a year! Anyway, as a result Whyte changed that approach for their 2023 bikes, adopting the Bosch rail system with the battery connector on the top of the battery and the battery latch on the bottom. I have a Whyte E160 RSX that has that system..........again it has not caused me any issues, although like Canyon Whyte has experienced a few latch failures........although only in the last few months it would appear despite selling bikes with that latch for more than a year now.
Specialized have used a completely different approach ever since 2018/2019. The battery charging terminal is exposed on one side at the bottom of the downtube and the battery to motor cable connect directly into it using a Rosenberger ( magnetic) connector. That connector is superior to the Bosch type connector because connecting/disconnecting it does not cause wear but it has its own downsides, mostly to do with keeping it clean and well protected.
I think the only viable alternative for Canyon to their existing system is to fully implement the Bosch rail system.

My outgoing Cube has a connector at the bottom and a key to relate the battery at the top. The batter sits inlace with the angled prong and then a firm click to secure it. Almost no movement and it appears to be almost watertight in there too. I wonder if Bosch are scratching their heads wondering only the Germans get this stuff nailed...!?

 

[Rando_12345]

I’m wanting to replace the noisy 220mm Shimano front disc with a Galfer 223mm disc. Anything I need to do to take into account the extra 3mm? View attachment 124926

Just a quick comment that I bought 4 of these in 223mm and all of them gave me massive overheating and fade issues. The fact that Galfer offered their shark fin rotors so soon after releasing the Wave ones tell me they realised there are issues with the Wave. Much happier with SRAM HS2 in 220mm.

 

[emtbeast]

Just a quick comment that I bought 4 of these in 223mm and all of them gave me massive overheating and fade issues. The fact that Galfer offered their shark fin rotors so soon after releasing the Wave ones tell me they realised there are issues with the Wave. Much happier with SRAM HS2 in 220mm.

Just a reply, I am running a 223mm Galfer wave 2mm thick for 2 seasons now, over 90.000 m of ascent/decent ridden and no overheating or whatsoever problems.

Did you get the 2mm thick ones, because they exist in 1.8mm also...

Could be you got a bad batch...

 

[Nick314]

Just a reply, I am running a 223mm Galfer wave 2mm thick for 2 seasons now, over 90.000 m of ascent/decent ridden and no overheating or whatsoever problems.

Did you get the 2mm thick ones, because they exist in 1.8mm also...

Could be you got a bad batch...

So, my Underdog has arrived and I'm not sure I'll be able to live with the 1980s TV remotes that I appear to have attached to the brake levers. Thinking of going with @Rob Rides EMTB on the Hope Tech4 V4, but question is, would you all suggest a change of rotors or can these just be bolted onto the same brackets, etc?

 

[Rando_12345]

Just a reply, I am running a 223mm Galfer wave 2mm thick for 2 seasons now, over 90.000 m of ascent/decent ridden and no overheating or whatsoever problems.

Did you get the 2mm thick ones, because they exist in 1.8mm also...

Could be you got a bad batch...

2mm, to be fair they worked well 99% of the time and I loved the feel, but I know a handful of sections of trail where 100% the rear disc will completely stop working within a minute, start clicking and look like a pringle. Another commenter posted a similar story in another thread with the same discs, so I believe established mtb brands (SRAM/hope) have better quality products for the money.

 

[el.guillyt]

Well, I went for a ride yesterday and battery cut offs are back again, haven't got a chance to look but it's going back to Canyon, so bummed with this situation...and will have to go back when they release the fix for this...not happy, and the reply I got from them is: give us the address to pick up the bike, it need to be checked by our techs....that's it, seems like they don't worry too much about their customers....

 

[Jona]

First ride on my Strive:On , battery disconnected 3 times. latch is also broken.
I was expecting that this issue would have been solved on new delveries. they know about the issue already months
is there a sollution ?

 

[Jona]

I just received the latch with the Abus lock, and it doesn't seem to be much stronger than the stock Bosch latch.
The lock does not add any additional support, in my opinion.

I was hoping some part of the weight would be resting on the lock itself, as it's placed centrally in the mechanism, but unfortunately, there is still a gap so that the whole weight of the battery is still resting on the little tabs that are getting broken.

View attachment 122717

View attachment 122718



Now I'm testing a different solution
I've added a little plastic spacer that would take some weight off the little tabs and hopefully make the whole thing stronger.
Below are some photos of the spacer with an already broken latch that I used for a test fit.
The spacer is made out of plastic (the pink part), and it's around 2.9mm thick. It allows the latch to close easily, and it provides additional support for the mechanism so that the weight of the battery is not sitting anymore on the plastic tabs.

Basically, the idea is to take the weight off the weak part (fragile plastic tabs) and spread it over the stronger part of the mechanism.

View attachment 122719

View attachment 122720

I will be testing this for the next few weeks and will report back.
In the meantime, maybe that would be helpful for someone who's already experiencing the same issues.
Cheers!

does this spacer work? i also believe that should help/solve it. i will try as well

 

[Nick314]

First ride on my Strive:On , battery disconnected 3 times. latch is also broken.
I was expecting that this issue would have been solved on new delveries. they know about the issue already months
is there a sollution ?

God that's rubbish, sorry to hear that! I took the battery out when mine arrived and the plastic piece that guides it into place - ie: grips the rails - was loose. But all else seems ok. I'm guessing you have a 750wh?

 

[Nick314]

does this spacer work? i also believe that should help/solve it. i will try as well
View attachment 125424

What's the red bit under the latch mechanism?

 

[Jona]

God that's rubbish, sorry to hear that! I took the battery out when mine arrived and the plastic piece that guides it into place - ie: grips the rails - was loose. But all else seems ok. I'm guessing you have a 750wh?

yes 750Wh

 

[Nick314]

yes 750Wh

Seems all are linked to the 750wh. In your photo, there seems to be some red paper or card under the latch mech? What is it?

 

[Jona]

What's the red bit under the latch mechanism?

some plastic part i found in my garage that seems to have a correct thickness to fit under the latch. i hope is will keep the batttery better in place. i'm not the first with that idea, see earlier posts

 

[Jona]

My strive arrived last week and I’ve decided on a proactive approach towards the latch problem many people are having. I’ve gone for the following:

1. Two pieces of m4 threaded bar secured in place with JB Weld to provide additional support to the ‘tabs’ which keep breaking for others.

2. A 3mm spacer to eradicate any movement in the latch mechanism itself.

3. A couple of wraps of thin sheet metal around the mount where the battery latches to.

View attachment 123792


The above has made the battery feel very securely latched with zero movement. Time will tell and I will report back in the coming weeks / months on how successful (or not) it is.

I also have an option 4 - a complete spare latch. This is in case the above ‘bodge job’ doesn’t work and I have the same issue as others when away on a bike trip.

also here Mark used a blue spacer

 

[Nick314]

some plastic part i found in my garage that seems to have a correct thickness to fit under the latch. i hope is will keep the batttery better in place. i'm not the first with that idea, see earlier posts
View attachment 125456

Mad! £6,800 and it comes to this!!!

 

[Jona]

went for a ride yesterday, motor was shut down 3 times
still have to investigate if plastic spacer was damaged or moved.

Was anyone able to solve the problem?

 

[Nick314]

went for a ride yesterday, motor was shut down 3 times
still have to investigate if plastic spacer was damaged or moved.

Was anyone able to solve the problem?

Jeez, that's rough!! One of the guys in this thread took the thing apart - he's a mechanic - and found a few fixes, but really you might do better taking it up the road to the local dealer - they're all on the app. Speak to Canyon first, I had a couple of non ride issues with mine and they've been amazing, so worth the contact.

 

[big_scot_nanny]

Just a reply, I am running a 223mm Galfer wave 2mm thick for 2 seasons now, over 90.000 m of ascent/decent ridden and no overheating or whatsoever problems.

Did you get the 2mm thick ones, because they exist in 1.8mm also...

Could be you got a bad batch...

Quick comment from me - I also bought 223 golfer wave rotors, in normal up down and along riding they are great, but I also had terrible issues with them in the alps this summer. I did not know there was a recognised problem.

At the end of a really long fast descent, usually on a bit of road on the last bit into town, they would fade gradually (not totally), but much much more concerning was that when this happened and I looked down at my front rotor, it was visibly wobbling/warping horribly from side to side as if melting. Once stopped, you could watch it cool and snap back into original normal shape.

If you want to shit yourself, have that happen when you are doing 60kmh down a steep bit of road. Parp!

Changed to different rotors and all good (FWIW, swiss stop).

 

[militantmandy]

Surprised at the Galfer issues. I've been running them with Magura for a couple of years. Been on trips to Finale, Madeira and I like in the Tweed Valley where there are many steeps. Had no issues like this at all. Could it be some particular combination of brakes and pads?

 

[emtbeast]

I am surprised about the Galfer issues also, could be a bad batch of steel or a bad batch with a manufacturing issue. Anyways good to know, that's why we are here to share...

 

[Jona]

went for a ride yesterday, motor was shut down 3 times
still have to investigate if plastic spacer was damaged or moved.

Was anyone able to solve the problem?

I added an additional thin plastic strip under the metal clips and went for a ride this weekend. this time success. no issues!
I'll leave it like this, charge battery on the bike. untill Canyon/bosh comes with a decent solution.

 

[Shaunovan]

The other bolt seemed to hold the battery with no problem, it was quite solid when I had it on my hands and tried to wiggle it to find play, but the loose bolt was contacting the battery, as you can see in the picture, so there is the possibility that the battery was not held properly and what I think is more critical in this case, not letting the battery seat properly against the connector, if we factor the latch issue, I have my pockets full of lottery tickets for battery disconnection problems, the terminals in the battery side seem to be in better shape, I've seen before, in other applications, where 2 metal parts are in contact, one is softer than the other, precisely to protect the most critical/expensive part.

The loose bolt, was just that, a loose bolt, the threads are completely fine, and now all that hardware it's loctite'd!

I think it's a combination of all the factors, the loose bolt not letting the battery to be fully seated, which overstress the weak latch and with a broken latch, you'll have a lose battery, which damages further the connector.

Also seeing how they designed the battery system, makes me think that it's overcomplicated, the wires on the connector go to the motor, so there is extra length on the cables to make this happen, they could have done like specialised does, with the connection on the bottom, and even if you have to use a tool for this operation, you still have to use a tool to remove the bashguard, so make it in a way where you just use a single tool and have a proper battery holding system.

The bike has now 740km, latch was replaced by Canyon with 520km, more than scoring, I would say it's fretting, anyway, obviously it's damaged to an unacceptable condition

It's not the best picture, but you can appreciate where the loose bolt was contacting the battery, on the right edge of the battery

View attachment 125179

So this happened to my battery today after multiple shutdowns....

 

[el.guillyt]

So this happened to my battery today after multiple shutdowns....

View attachment 126382

Wow, that's pretty bad, this just reinforces the theory of top battery bracket issues

 

[E Bob]

So this happened to my battery today after multiple shutdowns....

View attachment 126382

How many miles you put on the bike ?