Agreed, u read my mind, this in not a viable solution, actually the first thought that came to my mind when I saw the Whyte mod pic...
If there will be a mod it needs to fixate the battery to the frame/downtube, IMO...
Strive:ON problems
- Thread starter hubertsk
- Start date
If there will be a mod it needs to fixate the battery to the frame/downtube, IMO...
CrispyDesigns
Active member
Good point. I’ll wait till I get the bike in front of me and see what solutions there might be
el.guillyt
New Member
On the bashguard is not an option as you both pointed out, it slides on two "pins" in the front and it's locked with the bolt on the back, so the weight of the battery might help it to slide from the pins, and obviously, if something hits the bashguard, some forces will be transferred to the battery, the solution might be something to make the battery and the battery connector on the bike to stay together as firmly as possible, either the Bosch rail system or a fixed latch bolted to the battery, worst case scenario would be to remove 2 bolts to take the battery out, it could be made adjustable by placing or removing shims where the latch bolts to the battery, in case different bikes have a slight difference, hopefully I've explained myself enough to be understood 
the bash guard on the Whyte is pretty substancial because it has a metal bar running along the centre line. Not sure if it steel or ally but it would need to be a hard hit to deform it. Having said that, I agree it is not a "fix" I would do.........it smacks of dealing with the symptom rather than the cause!!
el.guillyt
New Member
I finally got the bike yesterday, once unpacked I checked the battery latch and already is damaged...I went on a ride today and it seems more noisy than normal, like a lot of rattle from the downtube, just like when I started with the problems last time, however no shutting down problems, when I got home after the ride, I had a look around and I don't see much that can be done, at least as a DIY level, unless some of you it's a DIY god with insane resources 
, I did notice a bit of play between the battery and the bracket where the lock engages that could be solved with a big 'ol tierap, I had one lying around but it's busted and doesn't lock when in tension, I'll get some new ones to try and will report back, I've attached a picture, also I've attached another picture, so you can tell me guys if it's normal or its something that shouldn't be there, I don't remember seeing it, but I've tried to move it to see if it was loose, but it was tight, thanks in advance
, I did notice a bit of play between the battery and the bracket where the lock engages that could be solved with a big 'ol tierap, I had one lying around but it's busted and doesn't lock when in tension, I'll get some new ones to try and will report back, I've attached a picture, also I've attached another picture, so you can tell me guys if it's normal or its something that shouldn't be there, I don't remember seeing it, but I've tried to move it to see if it was loose, but it was tight, thanks in advance
Markwright1983
Member
My strive arrived last week and I’ve decided on a proactive approach towards the latch problem many people are having. I’ve gone for the following:
1. Two pieces of m4 threaded bar secured in place with JB Weld to provide additional support to the ‘tabs’ which keep breaking for others.
2. A 3mm spacer to eradicate any movement in the latch mechanism itself.
3. A couple of wraps of thin sheet metal around the mount where the battery latches to.
The above has made the battery feel very securely latched with zero movement. Time will tell and I will report back in the coming weeks / months on how successful (or not) it is.
I also have an option 4 - a complete spare latch. This is in case the above ‘bodge job’ doesn’t work and I have the same issue as others when away on a bike trip.
1. Two pieces of m4 threaded bar secured in place with JB Weld to provide additional support to the ‘tabs’ which keep breaking for others.
2. A 3mm spacer to eradicate any movement in the latch mechanism itself.
3. A couple of wraps of thin sheet metal around the mount where the battery latches to.
The above has made the battery feel very securely latched with zero movement. Time will tell and I will report back in the coming weeks / months on how successful (or not) it is.
I also have an option 4 - a complete spare latch. This is in case the above ‘bodge job’ doesn’t work and I have the same issue as others when away on a bike trip.
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Winryn
Active member
Did your have movement before? Mine is rock solid. Absolutely no movement
I spoke to tech support in Whyte Bikes ........on an unrelated topic.........but whilst chatting I asked him a bout the latch issue simply because On my Whyte E160 RSX which I have had for a year a covered over 1000kms I have had no such issue. He said there have been a few cases with Whyte bikes recently, and Bosch are aware there is a weakness in the latch. Since Whyte are not prepared to wait for Bosch to fix the problem they have implemented their own stop gap solution on all newly prepared bikes and avaliable also to existing owners. It is a plastic block in the bash guard shaped specifically to fit over the latch when the bash guard is fitted ( details further up the thread).
I suspec this was either a batch issue or possibly a change of supplier since the problem only seems to occured very recently whilst that latch has been used in bikes for more than a year.
So it looks like a DIY interim fix is the best bet for Strive owners unless Canyon come up with something similar to Whyte.
I suspec this was either a batch issue or possibly a change of supplier since the problem only seems to occured very recently whilst that latch has been used in bikes for more than a year.
So it looks like a DIY interim fix is the best bet for Strive owners unless Canyon come up with something similar to Whyte.
That is the Bosch motor mounting plate, you can see it on most Bosch bikes I think, I know i've seen it on the Trek Rail also.
el.guillyt
New Member
That's exactly my ex-bike
I just did not remember seeing it.... thanks
Mine is rattling pretty loud when it's very rough terrain, I don't think it did it as loud when it was new, but it's very apparent now after 1400 km.
el.guillyt
New Member
Coming from a rail, I felt like the strive is supper silent (apart from the Bosch rattle), only started noticing some rattle when the battery issues started, now with the first ride after the latch replacement, it's definitely rattling
Markwright1983
Member
Took mine out for its first proper ride yesterday and I’m very impressed with it. Only ‘fault’ is a horrendous squeaking noise which I’ve isolated to the headset / internal cable routing. The slightest turn of the handlebars sounds like a squeegee. Will disassemble and regrease the area and hopefully that sorts it.
Also had a couple of pedal strikes; may consider some slightly shorter cranks in time but want a bit more riding time on what I have first, especially after I finish getting suspension dialled in.
Also had a couple of pedal strikes; may consider some slightly shorter cranks in time but want a bit more riding time on what I have first, especially after I finish getting suspension dialled in.
I really, really dislike the Shimano XT brakes on the CFR. They're weak, fade quickly, and the lever has no feel.
Can't decide what to replace them with. Hope Tech 4 V4 or Magura MT7 Pro are on the list, but are there any others that I should be looking at?
Can't decide what to replace them with. Hope Tech 4 V4 or Magura MT7 Pro are on the list, but are there any others that I should be looking at?
Markwright1983
Member
I had the complete opposite opinion and was very impressed by them. I was coming from Magura MT7s on my previous bike and although the modulation of the XTs might not be quite as good, I found them to be equally powerful when setup right. Maybe worth a bleed and check the pads are not glazed over?
They’re been bled twice, and both callipers replaced by Canyon.
I could order some Galfer purple pads to see if it improves things, but the levers are still not going to have any feel. I have 2 friends with XT brakes and they both feel the same. It must just be the way they are.
Maybe this helps with XT brakes...so I always preferred Shimano brakes combined with Icetech rotors before anything else on my amish bike, on my current ebike I have the XT four pots, couldn't be happier with them.
Although I didn't like them as they were specd from the factory, loud, extremely weak and just not up to the task.
Ok so just like the Strive CFR my Reign E came equipped with the RT-66 rotors(SLX level). I am not sure why(probably cost)but I have seen a lot of companies spec bikes with these rotors.
I replaced the rotors with 2mm thick Galfers and the difference was like night and day. I bet that even the Shimano 1.8mm RT-76 would do the job much better.
IMO the RT-66 rotors aren't a good match for an ebike going downhill full send, just good enough for those XC guys or couch potatoes going for leisure rides.
I would recommend trying this option before changing the whole brake setup, especially with all the through headset hassle on this bike.
Edit: I also want to add this buyer review to my post...as it probably also explains why the rotors aren't up to the task. You can see if your rotors are also stamped if the edges are rounded and the surface more like glass not rough.
"The Rt66 rotors were always laser cut and perfect. Today they are "stamped out" without any communication. The laser cut out ones are still depicted in some online shop photos, but you get stamped out rotors. The result is very disappointing. The braking force is uneven, vibrations, less powerful and makes a lot of noise."
Attached are two pics of a laser cut and a stamped RT-66 rotor.
Although I didn't like them as they were specd from the factory, loud, extremely weak and just not up to the task.
Ok so just like the Strive CFR my Reign E came equipped with the RT-66 rotors(SLX level). I am not sure why(probably cost)but I have seen a lot of companies spec bikes with these rotors.
I replaced the rotors with 2mm thick Galfers and the difference was like night and day. I bet that even the Shimano 1.8mm RT-76 would do the job much better.
IMO the RT-66 rotors aren't a good match for an ebike going downhill full send, just good enough for those XC guys or couch potatoes going for leisure rides.
I would recommend trying this option before changing the whole brake setup, especially with all the through headset hassle on this bike.
Edit: I also want to add this buyer review to my post...as it probably also explains why the rotors aren't up to the task. You can see if your rotors are also stamped if the edges are rounded and the surface more like glass not rough.
"The Rt66 rotors were always laser cut and perfect. Today they are "stamped out" without any communication. The laser cut out ones are still depicted in some online shop photos, but you get stamped out rotors. The result is very disappointing. The braking force is uneven, vibrations, less powerful and makes a lot of noise."
Attached are two pics of a laser cut and a stamped RT-66 rotor.
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It certainly sounds like it’ll be worth a try!el.guillyt
New Member
I've done some "mods" to try to improve the battery fastening, well the second one is more of consequence of smashing the bash guard against a fallen tree
, but also proves that holding the battery with a chunk in the bash guard is off the table, I've used a gear strap to hold the battery against the bracket on the frame, you could wiggle the battery fully installed in the bike before, causing some rattle, I couldn't tell today if the rattle is gone, because the bash guard was constantly coming off the fwd pins, only held by the aft bolt, hence causing some rattle, bike still working fine, no cut-off so far, I'll keep you updated on how it's holding on.
If you guys want I could explain more of what I've done with the bash guard, but I think it's pretty self-explanatory.
, but also proves that holding the battery with a chunk in the bash guard is off the table, I've used a gear strap to hold the battery against the bracket on the frame, you could wiggle the battery fully installed in the bike before, causing some rattle, I couldn't tell today if the rattle is gone, because the bash guard was constantly coming off the fwd pins, only held by the aft bolt, hence causing some rattle, bike still working fine, no cut-off so far, I'll keep you updated on how it's holding on.If you guys want I could explain more of what I've done with the bash guard, but I think it's pretty self-explanatory.
really don't wanna be part of the 20 percent having problems, would mind so much if there was a definite solution in hand from canyon would put my mind at easeAssuming the main problem is the battery latch, I reckon it is a manufacturing batch issue rather than a problem per se with the latch design. I have the same latch on my Whyte E160 RSX which I bought July 22. It has covered over 700 miles and I have had no issues with the latch...............it also seems Whyte only started experiencing problems recently whereas ( as per my bike) it has been using that latch ever since summer 22 when it launched its 23 range of EMTBs.
( ps....if you break the latch and get a replacement via your LBS it is more likely to be the same batch as originally on your bike.............as opposed to sourcing one from web based Bosch e spares supplier)
robbydobs
Member
Checked my battery latch today, starting to fail after 100 miles!
Personally I'd hold off until there's a workaround or at least a confirmed cause (e.g. "bad batch" issue as above)
I've bought a spare latch in case it fails whilst on a long ride or away for the weekend somewhere.
Personally I'd hold off until there's a workaround or at least a confirmed cause (e.g. "bad batch" issue as above)
I've bought a spare latch in case it fails whilst on a long ride or away for the weekend somewhere.
hubertsk
Member
- Thread starter
- #118
On the Facebook pool comments, one thing was apparent: people who had a problem with the latch had bikes size L with a 750Wh battery. I also have an L-size bike w/a 750Wh battery.
Does anybody else who is experiencing the same problem have different size/battery options?
Does anybody else who is experiencing the same problem have different size/battery options?
robbydobs
Member
Mine is medium/750wh
el.guillyt
New Member
Medium with 750wh
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