Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread

[Jun]

Mine does the same thing, I have given up and just live with it now. Ideally I would like to replace the headset cap with something else.

It seems that the replacement of cover is hard to find. Upper bearing is 52 mm same as bottom one.
Most bikes have upper bearing smaller than 52.

 

[Jun]

The cover has no play when pull the bike back and forth while grabbing front brake but it has play when I pull the bike forward and then grab the brake hard. Then does it have play in headset or not?

 

[webman]

The cover has no play when pull the bike back and forth while grabbing front brake but it has play when I pull the bike forward and then grab the brake hard. Then does it have play in headset or not?

Can you post a photo showing the cables coming out of the cover?

 

[Jun]

Can you post a photo showing the cables coming out of the cover?

 

[webman]

View attachment 88899

Mine looks similar. On one of the bikes anyway. I'll take it apart and have a look. Can't be the cable pulling it so has to be something else....

 

[Jun]

Mine looks similar. On one of the bikes anyway. I'll take it apart and have a look. Can't be the cable pulling it so has to be something else....

I removed cables from the headset and the cover still rotate after ride counter clock wise.

 

[webman]

I removed cables from the headset and the cover still rotate after ride counter clock wise.

No, could have told you that. ;-)

While the top bolt is tightened it is way too hard to rotate that piece. Also, the cables are long enough and internally move with that piece. I have tightened my top bolt a good bit to see if it makes any difference but have not gone on another ride yet.

Odd thing is they ALL rotate in the same direction. Wonder why…

 

[Jun]

No, could have told you that. ;-)

While the top bolt is tightened it is way too hard to rotate that piece. Also, the cables are long enough and internally move with that piece. I have tightened my top bolt a good bit to see if it makes any difference but have not gone on another ride yet.

Odd thing is they ALL rotate in the same direction. Wonder why…

Do you feel play at between spacer and cover when the cover rotated?
Sometimes I do.

 

[webman]

Do you feel play at between spacer and cover when the cover rotated?
Sometimes I do.

Not really. I tried to turn it by sticking an Alen key into hole and pulling but iI couldn’t. Without the pressure on that part it rotates easily so it can’t have any play even after it rotated.

 

[webman]

With the increased torque on the top screw I have had no creaking and the cover has not rotated. I’ve only been on two rides, about four hours all up. I’ll keep an eye on it and will let you know.

 

[Isaacgrx]

Goodbye Bomber Z1, hello 2023 RockShox Zeb Ultimate 170mm fork!

Waiting on my X2 Performance Elite to come back from service, so the old DPX2 is back on for the moment.

 

[Jun]

With the increased torque on the top screw I have had no creaking and the cover has not rotated. I’ve only been on two rides, about four hours all up. I’ll keep an eye on it and will let you know.

It's strange that headset has no play when I tighten it without battery installed but it has play when I ride the bike with battery installed.

So I tighten it with my battery installed. After this no play ever. But this time the cover rotates to the certain point and almost stay there moving just little bit around there back and forth.

So if I put a bottle on the bike should I retighten the headset. What is happening. .

 

[urastus]

It's strange that headset has no play when I tighten it without battery installed but it has play when I ride the bike with battery installed

I don't know about your other issues, but this aspect is normal. It's the same for wheel bearings. Play doesn't show unless there is a bit of force. For example, to check for headset bearing play, I hold on front brake and push back and forth on the bike. This will show any movement. With wheel bearings, checking the axle with your hand is good to see if it's too tight, but no good for checking looseness. If you adjust the bearing according to hand feel, then seat the wheel in your bike, then grab the outside of the wheel and move side to side you may still find some looseness. I'm not a great mechanic, it isn't often that I get it adjusted just right first go.

I imagine new grease alone will hide some of the feel.

 

[shklein]

Cracked my 900e frame at the top tube/seat tube junction. Apparently a common place for them to let go.

We will see how good/painless Merida Australia warranty is I suppose. I'll keep you updated.

Me too !
and apparently its quite common. I found the crack only after a fellow eone-sixty rider randomly stopped by me and asked me if I know of this issue. He knows of at least 2 other from his group of friends with same crack.
So how did Merida Australia treat ya ? Did they stood up to their warranty ?

 

[webman]

Just a quick update. Been on another longish ride today. Still no movement and no creaking. Looking very promising. Went over heaps of rock gardens and no issues.

 

[Natxoman]

Rompí el cuadro de mi 900e en la unión entre el tubo superior y el tubo del asiento. Aparentemente, un lugar común para que se suelten.

Supongo que veremos qué tan buena / indolora es la garantía de Mérida Australia. Te mantendré informado.
[/COTIZAR]
Y tengo el mismo problema se rompio del mismo sitio y desde hace meses estoy esperando cuadro, no hay repuesto.
Tienes ya tu cuadro nuevo de garantia?

 

[Natxoman]

Yo también !
y al parecer es bastante común. Encontré la grieta solo después de que un compañero de eone-sixty se detuviera al azar y me preguntó si conocía este problema. Él sabe de al menos otros 2 de su grupo de amigos con el mismo crack.
Entonces, ¿cómo te trató Mérida Australia? Hicieron frente a su garantía?
[/COTIZAR]
mi problema no es la garantía, sino la falta de cuadros de sustitución.
Llevo varios meses y no hay fecha de cuando será posible.....

 

[Jun]

Just a quick update. Been on another longish ride today. Still no movement and no creaking. Looking very promising. Went over heaps of rock gardens and no issues.

Can you measure the torque of top cap bolt? I have done it about 3 n.m.

 

[webman]

Can you measure the torque of top cap bolt? I have done it about 3 n.m.

I’ll have a look when my carbon handlebars arrive.

 

[Isaacgrx]

Can you measure the torque of top cap bolt? I have done it about 3 n.m.

When I fitted my oneup threadless carrier they say 2nm, but I have since gone to 3nm and it seems to hold the headset cap a lot better.

 

[webman]

When I fitted my oneup threadless carrier they say 2nm, but I have since gone to 3nm and it seems to hold the headset cap a lot better.

A small amount of carbon paste might help as well.

 

[Isaacgrx]

A small amount of carbon paste might help as well.

Yeah that might be worth a shot, but I have given up on it, I have an i9 stem and have removed the light from the light and have run the display cable out the side vents on the bike and epoxied up the hole now.

 

[urastus]

I’ll have a look when my carbon handlebars arrive.

I think I understand the problem. I'd just use some contact adhesive in one spot, or maybe two spots opposite each other. You'd still be able to lever it off without much force.

Carbon paste is really grease with carbon particles in it. The grease runs after a while and everything goes loose again. And you don't want to do that cap up too tight. 3nm sounds OK, but the top cap is really an adjustment just enough to stop bearing play.

 

[webman]

I think I understand the problem. I'd just use some contact adhesive in one spot, or maybe two spots opposite each other. You'd still be able to lever it off without much force.

Carbon paste is really grease with carbon particles in it. The grease runs after a while and everything goes loose again. And you don't want to do that cap up too tight. 3nm sounds OK, but the top cap is really an adjustment just enough to stop bearing play.

The grease may run but the particles should stay in place.

My torque is just under 3.5Nm btw. The new carbon bar is in with come carbon paste ;-) I did forget to get one with internal routing so now the electric cable runs along the dropper post cable....

 

[urastus]

The grease may run but the particles should stay in place.

No. It's something that has to be re applied when things start to slip again. From memory that's not long, like 3 months maybe. I still have a near full container from years ago now. I should just throw it away - I can't think of anything it is good for.

 

[webman]

No. It's something that has to be re applied when things start to slip again. From memory that's not long, like 3 months maybe. I still have a near full container from years ago now. I should just throw it away - I can't think of anything it is good for.

If you say so although I can’t see how the particles would make their way out from the clamped area. It’s really just like very fine sand and, from personal experience, I can tell you that the sand is NOT going anywhere unless you open things up and clean them.

 

[urastus]

If you say so although I can’t see how the particles would make their way out from the clamped area. It’s really just like very fine sand and, from personal experience, I can tell you that the sand is NOT going anywhere unless you open things up and clean them.

I would have preferred if it worked; I did buy the stuff. Admittedly it was with a dropper seat post. It would hold for some months, then start to slip more than ever when the grease started to run. After a thorough clean to get rid of the grease, I used a very small amount of contact adhesive. That has worked great. The seat post was still able to twist after a heavy off. I loosened the clamp, re aligned the seat, and tightened it again. No new glue. That was about 18 months ago now. I used finish line fiber grip - maybe others are different?

 

[webman]

I guess it might be different at the seat post. That said, I have a carbon frame and don't have any paste on my seat post. Either way, I'm sure a tiny amount of superglue would do the same thing. Have been on another ride, same on where things moved all over the place last time, and the extra torque seems to be doing its job pretty. Everything is still where it should be.

 

[urastus]

I guess it might be different at the seat post. That said, I have a carbon frame and don't have any paste on my seat post. Either way, I'm sure a tiny amount of superglue would do the same thing. Have been on another ride, same on where things moved all over the place last time, and the extra torque seems to be doing its job pretty. Everything is still where it should be.

Oh, I wouldn't use superglue, ever. Contact adhesive - lots of different brands and much safer. It doesn't dry hard. As with most things, it's the details that matter. I did try the fiber grip on bars and stems. I don't like damaging bars at the mount area where the clamp bites in a bit. I went through a stage of working out good stem length and bar rotation etc. A film of fiber grip would actually limit or avoid direct contact and theoretically wouldn't have to tighten up as much. That didn't work for me either - it didn't protect the bar and seemed to slip more because of the grease. A smear of contact adhesive on the clamp surfaces is awesome. Let it dry first - it grips the bar better and there is no metal to metal (or cf) contact.

 

[webman]

No, I wouldn’t use superglue on anything other than that silly cable guide either but for those cheap plastic pieces a tiny drop might just do the job to keep them in line if extra torque and the paste don’t do the job. Any kind of glue should be fine really.