Been running the Amygos bashguard on mine and it's taken the abuse that the motor otherwise would have. Been really pleased with it. They're a french company so depends where you are based. Covers the motor, bottom of the down tube and wraps round the bottom of the drive train. Wasn't cheap but had it on mine 9 months now and wouldn't be without it with how unprotected the motor is.
Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread
- Thread starter Basy
- Start date
Been running the Amygos bashguard on mine and it's taken the abuse that the motor otherwise would have. Been really pleased with it. They're a french company so depends where you are based. Covers the motor, bottom of the down tube and wraps round the bottom of the drive train. Wasn't cheap but had it on mine 9 months now and wouldn't be without it with how unprotected the motor is.
Natxoman
Member
alguien ha montado en la parte de atrás una rueda de 29 quisiera saber en el modelo de 2019 la 900 si alguien ha colocado rueda de 29 y qué marca y medida de cubierta es posible.
Last edited:
iscander13
Member
Thank you, captain!
pmcdonald
Member
Interesting. Is it safe to assume it won't be compatible with the 8036?
I don't know. Someone asked, I just saw the 975 on the website and posted. I haven't looked into it at all. I do know the 750w battery won't fit my 504w e160 Limited. :-(
iscander13
Member
It will not be compatible with the 8036.
The new 750Wh bikes will be equipped with simplo batteries. They will have a different charging port, internal cables and a different charger.
I saw a review of the e160 575 on a German youtube channel. Asked ww merida about when these bikes will be on sale. "TMY22 E-bikes haven’t produced yet. This 575 is a prototype". they answered
Last edited:
Natxoman
Member
Does anyone have a full list of frame bearings for the 2021 e160 700 (ally) please so I can stock up? Is there an exploded diagram floating in the Ether?
Zagora
Member
I've just looked at the Amygos website, they don't make a guard for my bike which is a 2020, carbon with the E8000 motor
I have a '20 model LTD with 3,000km. I was going to start working my way through them. Not take them out - clean as well as I can, remove outer seal, thumb new grease in, reassemble. That should buy me another 3,000 km. Great question though, and they will be needed eventually.
Last edited:
Front wheel bearings: I have a '20 model e140 LTD (aluminium). I had the front wheel out and the axle felt notchy. I originally thought (or thought I read) that the wheels on this bike had sealed bearings, well the front doesn't. 2,700km and the grease was a bit dark - originally light green (still some virgin stuff on the axle). The bearing cages are plastic and the balls pop out. A different cage for each side. Cleaned, greased, adjusted and put back together and all is good. If anyone needs to know they are 4mm bearings. Buy some because they are easy to lose if you're working on them. I shall have a look at the rear next.
Im wanting to upgrade my forks on my 2021 e160 8000. Im looking at the same forks that are on the 2021 10000 namely the factory fox emtb 38mm 160mm travel fork. Im trying to find these on line but see that Fox only seem to make the 38mm factory emtb in 170mm travel. Does anyone know if you can get emtb 38mm in 160mm travel, if not will the 170mm work as well (Im guessing it will change the geometry)? Thanks
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
On a size Large, when fully compressed, the head angle will reduce by 0.46 degrees. But at 30% sag, it will only be 0.14 deg. You have to ask yourself if you would notice it.
And you really don't need the eMTB version. The regular 38's are more than enough.
Gordon
Gordon
Mikects
New Member
How are the Z1s going? Thinking of replacing the 35 Golds on my wifes bike with forks that actually do something…..
I am quite surprised by mine. Coming from a lyrik ultimate I have no real complaints. Just like my z2 though and probably any fork. Service it even if brand new. Makes a decent difference.
RichardGB
Member
Unless you're desperate for that Kashima Bling, the Elite is almost exactly the same but about £200 cheaper. Winstanleys have some at about £900.
I've just fitted a 170mm travel to my E160 and I couldn't tell much, if any, difference on a quick street check. We're heading out
Matt_Rider
Member
Anyone know what headset bearings fit the 2022 Carbon frames? Pulled my fork out and the lower headset bearing has fallen apart.
I had my lbs order some Enduro bearings. Not sure if the carbon are the same size as alloy, but here are mine. Yours should have the sizing on the shell also?
InspectHerWheels
New Member
Can anyone comment on how the steering block works that is supposed to prevent the wiring through the steering stem getting damaged?
I got told today not to put my bike in the boot...
The bike caused one quite serious accident already due to this block being set such I didn't make a low speed corner which smashed the computer and damaged the headlight. I was just getting going again from that accident in October having only just got the computer back in the past month. Today I put the bike in the boot to take it in for the headlight E115 replacement (supplied my own headlight). It is only the first time I have put the bike in the boot since the accident as I have been riding locally.
I think it is a 'broken as designed' feature. The block has always moved with relatively modest force since new. The only situation where it is an issue is in a very slow speed corner where you are turning into the block and this is what happened to me.
I hate being bullshitted. I get it about the block's function although I doubt if it works. It certainly didn't protect my headlight and that damage was to the cable. It seems it doesn't even do it's basic job in an accident.
It is all my fault of course as I must have moved it putting it into the boot...once? They checked it after the accident.
They say by putting in the boot I have weakened the block. All sounds like bullshit to me.
I got told today not to put my bike in the boot...
The bike caused one quite serious accident already due to this block being set such I didn't make a low speed corner which smashed the computer and damaged the headlight. I was just getting going again from that accident in October having only just got the computer back in the past month. Today I put the bike in the boot to take it in for the headlight E115 replacement (supplied my own headlight). It is only the first time I have put the bike in the boot since the accident as I have been riding locally.
I think it is a 'broken as designed' feature. The block has always moved with relatively modest force since new. The only situation where it is an issue is in a very slow speed corner where you are turning into the block and this is what happened to me.
I hate being bullshitted. I get it about the block's function although I doubt if it works. It certainly didn't protect my headlight and that damage was to the cable. It seems it doesn't even do it's basic job in an accident.
It is all my fault of course as I must have moved it putting it into the boot...once? They checked it after the accident.
They say by putting in the boot I have weakened the block. All sounds like bullshit to me.
Rochefort
New Member
Might be a long shot, but give the guys at RockGuardz a bell. They hand made my bash guard to order, maybe they can make you a battery cover? Doesnt hurt to ask.
What model? my 2021 came with 3 tokens installed out of the factory, which was too much for my fat arse (117kg). Took 1 token out and its been a hell of a lot better. Probably drop another token once I get closer to 100kg.
@InspectHerWheels
Take it out altogether, much safer for the wiring and yourself. It had me off first time I rode my 700 trying to make a tight u-turn.
Take it out altogether, much safer for the wiring and yourself. It had me off first time I rode my 700 trying to make a tight u-turn.
InspectHerWheels
New Member
They kind of read me...
Hi Grant
Mike here. Just following on from our conversation on the phone yesterday regarding removing the knock block from your bike. I've spoken with the team at Merida and they're happy for us to remove it. They do advise against it though and warn that it may impact any future warranty claims where the removal of this component may have impacted the claim.
On inspection of the block we did find damage to the component though it is impossible to say when this damage happened ie, when the bike was crashed, or when you've as you mentioned, forced the block around.
The block itself is in place also to protect the di2 cabling running from your head unit to the battery and the integrated light to the battery. These components run through the headset and down to the battery and the block protects against wear into the cable and clipping of the cable in the headset. These cables are extremely thin by necessity and are very likely to break prematurely without the block in there and replacement of these can be quite costly, as they are not an easy replacement.
If you want to go ahead with having the block removed we can do it but would suggest replacing the port in the drive side of your bike to allow the di2 cable to run outside the headset, this will still leave the cable overly exposed and pose a risk of damage, though the risk is marginally less than running through the headset without a block in it. The power cable running from battery to the integrated light would not be possible to reroute and would run through the headset, this cable is likely to be damaged and fail prematurely without the block in place. Replacing this would require ordering the part ex east and take approximately 2 weeks to come in. Also so you're aware while removing the block and rerouting the cables is possible it would not be covered by any form of warranty and would attract an invoice for parts and labour.
Regards
Mike
Such a load of BS! The block is the number one cause of damage to the cables. It creates a pinch point within the headtube that is just asking for a cable to get cut. Removing it only helps prevent the inevitable damage. There is nothing about the block that helps manage the cables.
Get it removed, re-route the cables in through the brake cable port and save yourself the worry.
Get it removed, re-route the cables in through the brake cable port and save yourself the worry.
InspectHerWheels
New Member
Well, the headlight cable did get damaged hence a replacement was required of the E115 Lezyne headlight.
I got advice from the Consumer Credit Legal Service here in Perth and got some good advice. I will ask for a refund on the bike most likely as it is unsafe and I'm getting an opinion on it from another bike shop as well.
Evidently 99Bikes are owned by Flight Centre who also own Advanced Distributors who distribute Merida here in Australia.
Doug Stampfer
Well-known member
Have you got another bike lined up to replace it? The wait times seem impossibly long at the moment.
The knock block/cable design is stupid but I don't think the bike is unsafe. You'll lose your E functions if the controller cable is cut but the bike will ride. Mine was and I did a self repair and reinforced it significantly. Have had no issues since. Part of the problem is the poor assembly by 99 bikes. After I tightened everything up it's been fine for the last 12 months.
It's also incredibly easy to re route the controller cable from the headset to the vents. The light needs the motor dropped but it's a 30 min job in total to re route both cables. Once I had the knock block installed properly (by me) I haven't felt the need.
Gordon
p.s. I have never used the light except to see if it worked. I may remove it. It's not bright enough for anything than a path commuter light anyway. I wouldn't even use it on the road, let alone the trail.
EMTB Forums
Latest articles
-
Introducing the Forestal e-Cygnus - a downcountry and XC emtb
The new Forestal e-Cygnus is a slightly unusual emtb. It comes in two... -
2025 M1 Sporttechnik EN 8.0 review
The M1 EN is one of four M1 models built on the same frame. Well, it’s...