Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

[jcmonty]

Well, I just got back from my first ride with the EXT. Its bloody lovely. I sessioned up and down Water Lane near Newlands Corner (Surrey Hills) which is quite a nice test with plenty of rocky ruts, loose stones etc. The setup out of the box was very good, but I opened up the high speed compression a couple of clicks and closed down the low speed a bit. No jumps yet.

It is very smooth. Compared to the DHX2 I had, it feels more supple and plush (though that could just be the adjustments). There is a weird clicking noise as a ball valve opens and closes which would be disconcerting if the LBS hadn’t told me about it. The 700lb spring feels just right for me, with about 28% sag (I am 94kg). More testing to come, but all good so far.

Also, it’s beautifully made, really really robust, shiny and lovely. Yummmmm.

The setup is great - ext plus cc link. I have over a 1k miles on mine. It takes everything I can throw at it and more. On its first tune up I may have them soften the compression a bit as I find myself with hsc fully open feeling the best expect for pure flow/jump trails

 

[squeegee]

Quick question, is anyone running a 210 x 55 shock on their SL with the cascade link?

Comments appreciated...

 

[Tobers]

Quick question, is anyone running a 210 x 55 shock on their SL with the cascade link?

Yes that’s me right now with the EXT + Cascade. I checked the travel without the spring installed and there’s no fouling anywhere.

 

[jcmonty]

Yes that’s me right now with the EXT + Cascade. I checked the travel without the spring installed and there’s no fouling anywhere.

curious are you on a carbon frame? What flip chip setting?

I found that even at 52.5mm stroke I get really close to touching (maybe even occasionally touching) the stock shock yoke to the seatstay bridge at full bottom out. The yoke edge right at the pivots.

I am running a slightly offset bushing, but even stock I felt like 55mm would touch. This is with the cascade link

 

[Tobers]

Aluminium frame, XL size. Flipchip on high.

 

[jcmonty]

Aluminium frame, XL size. Flipchip on high.

Ah good to know. Flip chip on high helps a lot. I just don’t like what it does to the geo.

 

[Manitunc]

Quick question, is anyone running a 210 x 55 shock on their SL with the cascade link?

Comments appreciated...

Yes. Dvo Jade x

 

[Manitunc]

curious are you on a carbon frame? What flip chip setting?

I found that even at 52.5mm stroke I get really close to touching (maybe even occasionally touching) the stock shock yoke to the seatstay bridge at full bottom out. The yoke edge right at the pivots.

I am running a slightly offset bushing, but even stock I felt like 55mm would touch. This is with the cascade link

Offset wrong way?

 

[jcmonty]

Offset wrong way?

Not sure what that means

offset bushing used to slacken the hta and lower bb slightly. Side effect is makes a tighter fit between shock yoke and seatstay with cc link. Only can push the geo and kinematics so far on this bike

 

[Shinn]

When going to a 210x55 what is the travel increase with the stock link? I'm on a medium SL just received a DVO T3 Air 210 x 55. Also, can I run the cascade link with it and how much more travel would that equate? If any?

I'm sure I could find a video or article on how to measure it but I'm waiting on mounting hardware.

Also waiting on Fedex for my new diamond D1 at 160mm

 

[Shinn]

When going to a 210x55 what is the travel increase with the stock link? I'm on a medium SL just received a DVO T3 Air 210 x 55. Also, can I run the cascade link with it and how much more travel would that equate? If any?

I'm sure I could find a video or article on how to measure it but I'm waiting on mounting hardware.

Also waiting on Fedex for my new diamond D1 at 160mm

came up with 157mm? I'm no math wiz but after thinking about it a while longer pretty sure I figured it out.

 

[jcmonty]

came up with 157mm? I'm no math wiz but after thinking about it a while longer pretty sure I figured it out.

that should be right. Cc link at 55mm stroke will be right around 160mm. I wouldn’t focus on the extra travel as the leverage curve pretty flat at point (I.e doesn’t help too much with bottom out). If you are using full travel with 52.5mm stroke, you Most likely will with 55mm.

 

[Shinn]

that should be right. Cc link at 55mm stroke will be right around 160mm. I wouldn’t focus on the extra travel as the leverage curve pretty flat at point (I.e doesn’t help too much with bottom out). If you are using full travel with 52.5mm stroke, you Most likely will with 55mm.

thanks jcmoty - I'm not too worried about the amount of travel more curious. I'm not likely to pick up a link until I spend some time on the bike. Which won't be for awhile since we have about 12" of snow, more coming and not likely to be above freezing for too damn long.

 

[squeegee]

Got another question RE: Range Extender...

It seems that when Mission control is set to "discharge range extender first", when I get to 10% it goes into limp mode and only until range extender depleted can I get back the power of main battery. Does turning this toggle off in MC make the bike pull from both batteries simultaneosly or does the main get to 10%, and then go to limp before starting on the extender?

 

[CjP]

Yes turning it off will pull from both batteries simultaneously.

 

[Nowind]

2021 Turbo Levo SL Expert en route and a bunch of components as well. Debating on wheelset: We Are One Union Hydra or Enve AM30. Leaning towards We Are One but will take arguments for either (or an alternative). Weight savings is semi-important.

 

[rjefferis]

Hi all, looking for some help.

So picked up my 2020 Levo SL Expert the other day, noticed at the shop the dropper cable was very long up at the handlebar, kind of thought nothing of it, dropper was right down so just thought i would trim the outer once I had got everything setup as I wanted.

Been working on some other part swaps in the meantime, cassette and AXS.

Whilst charging my AXS battery i took a look at the dropper. Almost impossible to push the outer cable into the frame at the hole by the handlebar, loosened the seat clamp assuming the dropper unit would pull out and the cable would pull through but no. Gave the dropper unit a bit of a tug in the hope it would release but the dropper piston released but the unit is still stuck. Outer cable is still stuck fast doesn't move more than a few mm in or out. On closer inspection the outer is all chewed up, even in the slack area dangling above the fork. The bike shop obviously had an issue and knew it was a problem and just left it and hoped i wouldn't notice.

The obvious answer is take it back to them and get them to sort it. Issue is they are 2 hours drive away each way.

Any ideas where it could be caught?

Thanks

Rob

 

[CjP]

Unscrew the plug where the two cables go through. There is another screw on the side that locks in the cables.

 

[rjefferis]

Unscrew the plug where the two cables go through. There is another screw on the side that locks in the cables.

View attachment 53199

Thanks, will have another go tomorrow. I did try unscrewing the plastic bit, and although it was loose from the frame, struggled to slide it out the way over the outer cable. Will try and get that out the way. Thanks

 

[CjP]

The plastic tubes run all way way down the frame, just need it out a couple cm.

 

[rjefferis]

The plastic tubes run all way way down the frame, just need it out a couple cm.

Is the cable locking on the tubes themselves?

If so I almost suspect they have locked it in place and then pulled the slack through to the front whilst the cable has been locked. That would explain the damage to the outer cable that is visible.

I think the issue I may have is that i cant get the plastic tubes out more than a few mm because there is literally no slack on the outer cable at the other end.

 

[CjP]

The battery could be hard against it. You might have to swing out the motor and remove the battery

 

[Loamranger]

Hi SL owners

I came across a Italian video comparing the aluminium and carbon versions and asked a friend to interpret and will comment further on their findings. The weight difference between the two same spec bikes was 1.4 kg surprisingly, some had mentioned that the difference might be around 800g.

The difference in price between the two in the U.K. is £1500, which is roughly £1 per gram in weight saving.

So the question I would like to pose is this:

If you spent £1500 upgrading and lightening the aluminium version would it be possible to match or exceed the lower weight of the carbon version and would one end up with a better more durable option or would the search for weight reduction result in a less durable bike? What specifically would you spend the money on?

I’m currently trying the carbon version and really like the way the bike handles and appreciate the weight reduction compared to my own FF ebike. The only thing it doesn’t do quite so well is climb very steep stuff and this I believe is due to the SL’s much shorter chain stays compared to my ebike.

 

[squeegee]

Losing 1400g is a tall order just in components. Potential places where you could shave some g's without compromising strength

Cassette, XO1 ~200g
Handlebar-carbon~100g
Stem-I9 or similar~50g
Derailleur GX/XO1~50g
Wheels ~200-300g carbon rims/I9 hubs or similar
Cranks~praxis carbon 150g

All this will add up to more than 1500 euros I bet.

Worst single piece that comes stock on Comp/Comp carbon is the shock, totally inadequate for the bike IMO

NX cassette is 620g, rear hub unfortunately is HG so stock wheels/NX cassette I took off right away, will put back when I sell it.

I had an aluminum Comp in large which I later sold and now have a Comp carbon medium, the weight difference is ~1540g so that 1400g figure seems about right to me given the size difference between frames.

I'm happier with carbon and selective upgrades

 

[Manitunc]

Losing 1400g is a tall order just in components. Potential places where you could shave some g's without compromising strength

Cassette, XO1 ~200g
Handlebar-carbon~100g
Stem-I9 or similar~50g
Derailleur GX/XO1~50g
Wheels ~200-300g carbon rims/I9 hubs or similar
Cranks~praxis carbon 150g

All this will add up to more than 1500 I bet.

Worst single piece that comes stock on Comp/Comp carbon is the shock, totally inadequate for the bike IMO

NX cassette is 620g, rear hub unfortunately is HG so stock wheels/NX cassette I took off right away, will put back when I sell it.

I had an aluminum Comp in large which I later sold and now have a Comp carbon medium, the weight difference is ~1540g so that 1400g figure seems about right to me given the size difference between frames.

I'm happier with carbon and selective upgrades

Adds up to 750-850, not 1500

 

[squeegee]

Adds up to 750-850, not 1500

meant cost

 

[Manitunc]

meant cost

?

 

[Manitunc]

Running a Manitou a mezzer pro at 160mm now. Improvement over Fox 36 in steering precision and buttery smooth over roots and such.

 

[KnollyBro]

Hi SL owners

I came across a Italian video comparing the aluminium and carbon versions and asked a friend to interpret and will comment further on their findings. The weight difference between the two same spec bikes was 1.4 kg surprisingly, some had mentioned that the difference might be around 800g.

The difference in price between the two in the U.K. is £1500, which is roughly £1 per gram in weight saving.

So the question I would like to pose is this:

If you spent £1500 upgrading and lightening the aluminium version would it be possible to match or exceed the lower weight of the carbon version and would one end up with a better more durable option or would the search for weight reduction result in a less durable bike? What specifically would you spend the money on?

I’m currently trying the carbon version and really like the way the bike handles and appreciate the weight reduction compared to my own FF ebike. The only thing it doesn’t do quite so well is climb very steep stuff and this I believe is due to the SL’s much shorter chain stays compared to my ebike.

Since all of my bikes have been aluminum except the last one (Levo SL, which is carbon, as it was the only model available) I would like to add to this question (comparison between carbon vs aluminum for weight reduction vs performance), can anyone give me some method of quantifying the difference? When I read about people trying to save 1.4 kg by getting a carbon frame, carbon wheels and all the other high end parts I have to wonder if shedding a few personal pounds wouldn't be a more of a reasonable way to achieve the same goal (weight reduction and possibly better performance). Shouldn't reliability and functionality be more important than weight?

 

[Olof Bike Adventures]

Since all of my bikes have been aluminum except the last one (Levo SL, which is carbon, as it was the only model available) I would like to add to this question (comparison between carbon vs aluminum for weight reduction vs performance), can anyone give me some method of quantifying the difference? When I read about people trying to save 1.4 kg by getting a carbon frame, carbon wheels and all the other high end parts I have to wonder if shedding a few personal pounds wouldn't be a more of a reasonable way to achieve the same goal (weight reduction and possibly better performance). Shouldn't reliability and functionality be more important than weight?

I can't provide with a method to quantify the difference, but GCN once did a climbing test where they added a few kg and it was absolutely a difference there. Interesting and entertaining test!
From my experience, weight reduction of a bike itself significantly changes the handling of the bike. You will definitely get more pop, improved turning e t c from a 1.4 kg reduction in weight. In terms of faster speeds when just pedalling on a fire road, I don't thing there is much of a difference on an eMTB but as soon as you hit the trails and start flying over things...

EDIT: As an answer to your question(s), there are improvements in the handling of the bike that you will not get from losing a few kg in body weight instead. It's a weird thing that I cannot properly explain with physics.