MLX John
Active member
You can have all three...reliability, functionality, and lighter weight with the Carbon SL.
Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
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- levo sl
Thank you for the road bike video as it actually does attempt to provide data that can be observed and retested. Unfortunately, for most mountain bikers, climbing is NOT the most important element of their ride. For me, the down is far more important than the up. As for your experience of a change in 1.4 kg providing a significant change in the handling of a bike, I would have to disagree as there are several other variables involved such as: type of trail, rider skill and fitness and the of course, bike setup. Having ridden Whistler, Squamish and the North Shore for over 10 years on a 43 lb DH bike (Knolly Podium) and a 34 lb All mountain bike (Knolly Chilcotin and Warden), it is my experience that having durable, mid range parts that are correctly serviced and setup makes much more of a difference than the 10 lb difference in weigh of bikes. I will be the first to admit that one can get bounced around and shaken up more on the lighter bike but that comes down to skill and fitness and your choice of trail.
In the end, we are riding ebikes here and they will weigh more than an All mountain/Trail bike but if they are setup properly, you shouldn't have to have the latest, greatest and lightest to have fun. Save your money and take a road trip to a new place to ride, once the pandemic is over.
But with the money you save buying an aluminum SL, you can replace that useless Fox 34 fork that so many seem to do
Olof Bike Adventures
Active member
If you are only looking at downhill performance, that extra weight clearly does not matter. Most analogue DH bikes weigh, as you already know, around 20 kg and are focused towards high speed stability rather than pop and play on "normal" trails. Downhill is an entirely different category. My point is, maybe you should have specified "downhill" in your post?
Isn’t the whole point of ebikes so you can ride more “downhill”?
SquireRides
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
(Late reply)
My experience is that if you set MC to drain the RE first you will literally drain the RE to more or less nothing and in doing so the bike will reduce power massively as it goes below 10% - as you observed.
However at that point MC has refused to switch to 'drain both together' mode. I suspect because the voltage available from a full main battery and an almost dead RE is not compatible.
At that point the only solution I found to get power back was to physically unplug the RE, thus forcing a switch to main battery.
This is a PITA and has stopped me relying on 'drain RE first' mode. It would be great if this mode intelligently switched to the main battery at the point it would otherwise throttle power on the RE.
99% of the time it makes sense to drain both together. You only go in to limp mode when both batteries are depleted. However there are situations where I want to drain the RE first - On very very long rides where I either carry a second RE or I have the charger (easier to charge the RE inside the cafe then wheel my bike in!)
On a wide open day at the right trails, I like the idea of spending the RE first and if I'm near the car or a safe place, dropping off the RE to pull the 2.2lbs off the bike. It would be ideal to be able to do this without having 20-30 minutes of forced Eco mode. Why can't MC detect low charge on the RE and then kick in the main? Clearly this should be possible. Nit picky I guess but hitting the limp mode in the middle of a ride is a buzz kill. Stopping to pull out your phone to change modes and power cycling the bike to avoid limp mode is on RE is also a buzz kill.
May be a worthwhile suggestion to Specialized.
May be a worthwhile suggestion to Specialized.
Loamranger
Member
For reference sake, I had a chance today of weighing a friends XL aluminium SL with RE and Lyriks, weight was 21.3 kg. RE weighs 1kg I believe.
ridingintheoc
New Member
I agree. You should write an email to them and hopefully they update the firmware to fix this issue!
To be clear, the OP started with the question of whether it was worth buying an aluminum SL vs a carbon SL mentioning that the £1500 difference in cost was worth it in terms of durability and weight savings "which is roughly £1 per gram in weight saving". From my experience and my use of my mountain bikes, I think it is ridiculous to spend THAT kind of money of such marginal weight savings (for example: XO1 cassette @ $500 to save 200 grams!).
I am not sure what you mean by "normal trails" but I expect a bike that I paid $10k to be able to handle all the trails I care to ride. We don't have categories assigned to trails that specify or require a specific bike to be able to ride them. Any All Mountain bike (a bike you can ride up a climbing trail but still has plenty of pop, when pointed downhill) bike should be more than capable of handling the Black and Double Black trails around here. It comes down to skill and fitness, not bike weight. I bought an ebike to continue to ride the trials I enjoy while recovering from an injury. I may be way off for those that like to ride XC all day, flat out in turbo, but that is an entirely different category.
MLX John
Active member
A X01 cassette will last somewhere around 4-6k miles, where as a GX will get you 1500 miles if you're lucky. Also carbon doesn't have fatigue like steel and aluminum bikes.
Some people may not notice (or care) about the ride/dampening quality of a carbon frame, but it's real. Then there's the bling factor, although those raw aluminum Levo frames are dope.
Some people may not notice (or care) about the ride/dampening quality of a carbon frame, but it's real. Then there's the bling factor, although those raw aluminum Levo frames are dope.
Killswitch73
Well-known member
Will just put this here , 17,4kg .
Mtbvkk
Member
SL regular levo talk:
I remember seeing this SL earlier here:
www.trailheadcyclery.com
I remember seeing this SL earlier here:
Lars thomsen Levo SL Bike Check
mtbrdan
Member
Lars is good people.
Mcharza
E*POWAH BOSS
Mcharza
E*POWAH BOSS
Sorry it don't say, which is the original spacer
Do you have the Fox code from your DPX2 available?
I think I can look it up on the Fox website.
Two Exits. The entrance to this rock is a 6" skinny with 10" drop and a half wheel space cut out of it (Squirrel catcher) to a 12" by 4 feet setup bridge. Getting on to this feature is the most difficult. Getting off, is easy. Slippery when wet . Long live the mullet .
Pangor Rock. Mount. Seymour. North Shore, Vancouver.
If you would like to see the entire trail, check out the link below:
. Long live the mullet .Pangor Rock. Mount. Seymour. North Shore, Vancouver.
If you would like to see the entire trail, check out the link below:
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Mtbvkk
Member
Just picked up my new frame build (purchased frame at old price). Love the raw carbon. Used invisiframe since ridewrap isn’t available for a small frame. Have to say I prefer ridewrap from previous experiences. Seams are not well designed with invisiframe and very visible. But it will protect this investment. I’d posted earlier about the frame and build and wanting to source parts myself but I since learnt that custom builds at this shop were too good to pass up if you bought the frame from them and went for it. Discounted parts at 6-9% and no labor.
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How much for just the frame? Where did you get it?
Mtbvkk
Member
6500$ at Fanatik bike just south of you across the border in Bellingham.
Thanks for info. I have been to Fanatik before. Good LBS. I see that it is an SWORKS frame. What it the difference between an SWORKS frame and a Comp Carbon frame?
Mtbvkk
Member
Same frame - but it comes with carbon cranks, range extender and fox factory dpx. At current prices I spent less than a new expert, with components I like and invisiframe installed and a range extender battery.
The only other difference is that raw carbon seems to be available only in the higher priced variations. Frankly, I’d have bought a comp if it was available at the older price but this was the only thing I saw in my size anywhere. But in the end it turned out to be a better deal at current prices and availability. I wasn’t looking for an s-works necessarily, just a small frame. But now that I have it I do love it. LOL
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The Large SL frame has been sold out for several months now. What size of frame did you get?
This from a L SWorks frame. D6JH
Mtbvkk
Member
its a small but the only one I found in my Vicinity
Mtbvkk
Member
D6JJ
shakeystart
Member
Along those lines, if I were to buy an X2, what tune would I order for my SL?
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