Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

[jimslade]

I have a 2020 SL Expert, and I ride some rocky terrain (new fav trail pic) and have cracked my bash guard (aka rock guard).

I'm looking at replacement options... weighing between just get a Spesh OEM replacment, or there are a couple aftermarket metal guards. I'm tempted to go aftermarket metal, but I'm wondering if anyone here has run one longer term and how it has gone. It occurs to me that the design of the OEM version might be semi-fragile on purpose.... meaning, breaking it is part of the design to keep the frame safe, vs having something unbreakable and transferring the shock energy to the bolt holes or elsewhere. or maybe I'm over thinking it.
thoughts?

 

[DarrenCC]

Power out = power in (minus some losses). If we want 60 NM we have to accept that battery drain will be 1.7x that of 35 NM and range will be 58%.

Not sure what the nerd figures mean but in reality no one is going to ride everything at full boost max torque for the entire duration of a ride. In the tweaked profile 2 setting I ride mostly eco with very occasional trail mode and the boost is reserved for crazy steep stuff. Whatever the figures say, it’s got noticeably more poke than the SL and comparable range according to my rides. If you are willing to spin on local stuff, it’s easy to ride up to and over the support threshold which presumably is using less torque and battery power at that point? I guess the main advantage of the Rise is that it can do everything the SL does and can also hold it’s own against full fat bikes, orbea have beaten specialized at their own game. I’ll bugger off now…

 

[Norcalsl]

I'm a fit SL rider and have no desire for more power. I hardly ever use turbo. No Rise envy here.

 

[A1000]

Thanks for all the advice and apologies for perhaps dominating the thread for a day or so. Just put down the deposit on an SL Comp Carbon so I'm afraid I'm not going away just yet and have a few more questions in the future. Again thanks for the advice?

 

[will.fraser.3192]

Not sure what the nerd figures mean but in reality no one is going to ride everything at full boost max torque for the entire duration of a ride. In the tweaked profile 2 setting I ride mostly eco with very occasional trail mode and the boost is reserved for crazy steep stuff. Whatever the figures say, it’s got noticeably more poke than the SL and comparable range according to my rides. If you are willing to spin on local stuff, it’s easy to ride up to and over the support threshold which presumably is using less torque and battery power at that point? I guess the main advantage of the Rise is that it can do everything the SL does and can also hold it’s own against full fat bikes, orbea have beaten specialized at their own game. I’ll bugger off now…

You’re basically right…. As a major league nerd, I’ll throw in my two cents. Torque (nm) is a measure of force. Torque times RPM is power, so if you have 1/2 the torque but are peddling twice as fast, you generate / consume the same amount of power. Power x time = work, which is what your battery stores, so if you have two bikes, each identical except for the motor with identical riders on an identical track traveling at the same speed, they will go the same distance even if one motor has twice as much torque. One rider will be peddling twice as fast. One caveat though: the lower torque motor will use less power if the rider is working harder at lower RPM, making up some of the other motor’s torque advantage with his legs, which is why for a lot of riders the SL will go further.

All that being said, I own an SL because there are Specialized reps where I live but no Orbea and shipping lithium ion batteries to AK is a pain.

 

[crembz]

I'm about to decide on either an sl comp or carbon comp but I'm stuck on frame size.

I normally rise small frames but noticed the reach on the levo sl is a little on the short side.

At 5'5" (165cm) with a 77cm inseam, what size are people usually choosing. The spec website puts me firmly in the small bracket and at the very bottom of medium. I prefer an agile bike but the reach (415mm) combines with the length of those chainstays has me a little worried.

One more question, has anyone measure the max insertion length of the seatpost on the medium frame by any chance?

 

[Potato]

I think it’s rare for fit people to have an ebike. Actually, it is.

It is all in the eye of the beholder. Compared to Homer I am fit, compared to Flanders I am not fit.

 

[crembz]

I just put in an order for a carbon comp in small. Spec said if it's obviously too small when I sit on it they'll swap it over for a medium. Can't ask for more, although I can't test ride it, it should suffice to compare to my current bikes.

Can't wait for the tear down and build up. I have a Pike Ultimate, BTLOS carbon/DT350 wheels, xtr cassette, axs xx1 shift/RD, axs dropper, formula cura 4 and my cockpit bits I'll throw on. See exactly how light this thing can get.

 

[chamaruco]

though it's a funny machine as it comes out of the box

 

[RideDirty]

I'm about to decide on either an sl comp or carbon comp but I'm stuck on frame size.

I normally rise small frames but noticed the reach on the levo sl is a little on the short side.

At 5'5" (165cm) with a 77cm inseam, what size are people usually choosing. The spec website puts me firmly in the small bracket and at the very bottom of medium. I prefer an agile bike but the reach (415mm) combines with the length of those chainstays has me a little worried.

One more question, has anyone measure the max insertion length of the seatpost on the medium frame by any chance?

I am riding a Ibis Ripley Med and I just picked up a Levo SL in Small. I’m 5‘5”. Like you, I was a little worried about it being too small . I am a little less stretched out that I was on the Ibis, and I’m sitting slightly more upright, but really it feels pretty good. Loving the Levo SL.

 

[crembz]

I am riding a Ibis Ripley Med and I just picked up a Levo SL in Small. I’m 5‘5”. Like you, I was a little worried about it being too small . I am a little less stretched out that I was on the Ibis, and I’m sitting slightly more upright, but really it feels pretty good. Loving the Levo SL.

That's good to know. What makes it more confusing, everyone says it's sized like a stumpjumper, but the stump uses the 's' based sizing now, and in my size I'm firmly in an S2, which is closer to a M than a S levo sl other than the seattube. I'm still waiting for mine to ship, I'm between two minds about whether to go the M.

Have you had a chance to test how the shorter reach feels descending?

 

[Modcitizen]

Not sure if anyone here will know the answer to this but --- will a battery from a Vado SL fit/function in a Levo SL?
I ask because I'm traveling to the east coast from the PNW and my buddy has a Vado SL battery that I can use in my Levo SL ... if it fits/functions. If I know ahead of time that it WON'T work, I'll just bring a range extender or two with me. (I'll be removing the main battery from my bike for travel)
Follow-up Question - Has anyone traveled by air in the US with 2 range extenders with them?
Thank you.

 

[George_KSL]

That's good to know. What makes it more confusing, everyone says it's sized like a stumpjumper, but the stump uses the 's' based sizing now, and in my size I'm firmly in an S2, which is closer to a M than a S levo sl other than the seattube. I'm still waiting for mine to ship, I'm between two minds about whether to go the M.

Have you had a chance to test how the shorter reach feels descending?

I'll give opposite opinion. I had my 165cm tall wife (long legs, short torso) try both Small (415mm reach) and Medium (435mm reach). The small was "ok-ish" if you like very nimble bike and keep the seat slack (neutral on rails). The 29" and heavier weight of e-bike keep the bike planted regardless.
The medium was far more natural fit. Mind you, Orbea Rise suggests for her height Medium with almost 450mm reach (L-sized Levo SL) since it follows more modern geometry (but one you can imitate just by sliding the seat 2 cm forward on rails).

If you have long legs and short torso, both will do fine. Nimble- Small size, Stable- Medium size.
But if you have short legs and long torso for your height, I believe the larger size is right, that's almost universal rule as long as you can fit low enough stack height dropper.

With upcoming Levo SL revision, and their S-sizing nomenclature, you can 100perc. bet they will suggest you the larger size, like they already do with FF Levo and Kenevo SL, where 165 cm is strictly S2, medium.

To add my experience with Kenevo SL, I felt very natural on both S3 and S4, and I am 177cm (5'9.5" ?) with average inseam of 32". S4 definitely gave me the more modern experience, but I found it was not necessary, again mainly due to weight of the e-bike, and also the slack HA and 29". I plan to chose S3 when I get my damn hands on one !

The best of both worlds is imho larger size, and mulleted :- ).

 

[crembz]

"With upcoming Levo SL revision, and their S-sizing nomenclature, you can 100perc. bet they will suggest you the larger size, like they already do with FF Levo and Kenevo SL, where 165 cm is strictly S2, medium."

This is exactly what got me double guessing myself.

 

[George_KSL]

E-bikes are kind of specific with how heavy they are (even SL are heavy compared to normal bike with exception of latest enduro behemoths like Norco Range or Commencals which are 17kg) that it somewhat changes weighting the bike and that influences the sizing. All my (non-e) bikes have reach of 465mm (like large YT Capra 29), and I plan the same reach for Kenevo SL where it will be S3.

BUT.. I've been riding for few months (and what got me addicted) borrowed first gen Levo (6fatty) in size L which has only tiny 435mm reach and the bike is planted like hell, and the motor power offsets the poor uphill position due to slack seat angle. If you check contemporary downhill bicycles, they still have shorter reaches (because total wheelbase is still long) and slack seat angles because they don't need to pedal uphill. E-Bikes offset the same limitations, you can get away with shorter and seat-slacker bike than you would with "accoustic/analog" (ugh..I dread these words).

So while 435mm reach normal bike feels down right unstable to me, with e-bike I am just fine. But because how close the SL Levo/Kenevo is to normal bike, I want to size them up identically to my normal bikes as well. Wife agreed after trying both.

What I wanted to say is... neither choice will be a mistake :- ) But go larger imho. Even the larger is still smaller than what other brands would put you on. Larger bike with shorter stem and seat slid forward on rails will get you better riding position if you find the bike too long which I doubt you would.

 

[crembz]

E-bikes are kind of specific with how heavy they are (even SL are heavy compared to normal bike with exception of latest enduro behemoths like Norco Range or Commencals which are 17kg) that it somewhat changes weighting the bike and that influences the sizing. All my (non-e) bikes have reach of 465mm (like large YT Capra 29), and I plan the same reach for Kenevo SL where it will be S3.

BUT.. I've been riding for few months (and what got me addicted) borrowed first gen Levo (6fatty) in size L which has only tiny 435mm reach and the bike is planted like hell, and the motor power offsets the poor uphill position due to slack seat angle. If you check contemporary downhill bicycles, they still have shorter reaches (because total wheelbase is still long) and slack seat angles because they don't need to pedal uphill. E-Bikes offset the same limitations, you can get away with shorter and seat-slacker bike than you would with "accoustic/analog" (ugh..I dread these words).

So while 435mm reach normal bike feels down right unstable to me, with e-bike I am just fine. But because how close the SL Levo/Kenevo is to normal bike, I want to size them up identically to my normal bikes as well. Wife agreed after trying both.

What I wanted to say is... neither choice will be a mistake :- ) But go larger imho. Even the larger is still smaller than what other brands would put you on. Larger bike with shorter stem and seat slid forward on rails will get you better riding position if you find the bike too long which I doubt you would.

Thanks for the detailed feedback. I'm leaning towards the same. Specialised have agreed to change the size if I find the small is too small. My 423mm 27.5 analog bike feels on the edge of too twitchy but takes berms like nothing else, my 430mm 29 is much better but noticeably less agile around tighter stuff.

 

[George_KSL]

Hey guys, I found few inconclusive posts about shocks that fit with Range Extender, but majority of them not in size I will have, Medium SL.
Does RockShox Super Deluxe fit with RE on Medium ? Does Fox X2?

Also, did any of you buy those super cheap RS Super Deluxe that come as brand new take-offs from other brands? Lot of e-shops sell Deluxes that come from Santa Cruz and they seem to fit and you already have mounting hardware from existing shock. So only thing is the tune, but I can't see this being too different as both SC and Specialized use very similar linear kinematics (the shocks doesn't care what system is used, the compression is compression), at worst, reshimming is matter of 20 minutes.

 

[Tobers]

Hey guys, I found few inconclusive posts about shocks that fit with Range Extender, but majority of them not in size I will have, Medium SL.

I have an XL sized SL with an EXT Storia shock. The RE does not fit on mine so unlikely to fit on yours if you had this setup. But...I simply bought one of those little brackets that moves the water bottle mounting holes off centre to the right, and the RE fits straight in. I think it was this one: B-RAD Bottle Shift

 

[Ntinos]

I just put in an order for a carbon comp in small. Spec said if it's obviously too small when I sit on it they'll swap it over for a medium. Can't ask for more, although I can't test ride it, it should suffice to compare to my current bikes.

Can't wait for the tear down and build up. I have a Pike Ultimate, BTLOS carbon/DT350 wheels, xtr cassette, axs xx1 shift/RD, axs dropper, formula cura 4 and my cockpit bits I'll throw on. See exactly how light this thing can get.

17.670kg

 

[George_KSL]

I have an XL sized SL with an EXT Storia shock. The RE does not fit on mine so unlikely to fit on yours if you had this setup. But...I simply bought one of those little brackets that moves the water bottle mounting holes off centre to the right, and the RE fits straight in. I think it was this one: B-RAD Bottle Shift

Genial :- ) I thought I saw someone with similar solution but it was re-drilled holes instead of adapter, this is much cleaner.
And I presume it might even look better being more tucked-in.


Yeah Storia Lok 3 is def one of the main contenders as well :- ). This being wife's bike I wanted to keep it as lightweight as possible but Storia is still quite lightweight. Any chance you weighted up yours before mounting?

 

[Ntinos]

Genial :- ) I thought I saw someone with similar solution but it was re-drilled holes instead of adapter, this is much cleaner.
And I presume it might even look better being more tucked-in.


Yeah Storia Lok 3 is def one of the main contenders as well :- ). This being wife's bike I wanted to keep it as lightweight as possible but Storia is still quite lightweight. Any chance you weighted up yours before mounting?

IF helps, this is from my specialized enduro (205x60) with relative heavy (550lbs) spring

 

[mizzourah2006]

I've been trying to read through most of this thread over the past 5-7 days, so I appreciate all of the discussion. I was hoping you all could lend me your thoughts/opinions. I have found a used 2020 Levo SL Comp Alloy upgraded to Zeb Ultimate 160mm, gx drivetrain, and Megura brakes for sale locally. It seems like with his upgrades he's asking a reasonable price and the motor/battery has 650 miles on it.

From reading this thread it seems like this bike is the perfect fit for me. I currently only ride analog, I've only ever ridden analog. I was hoping to get an e-bike for longer days. To session downhills, to help seeing more of the trail(s) than I currently do, etc. I'm not in excellent shape, but I'm not in bad shape either. On a typical ride I do 8-12 miles analog with 1-1.5k ft of climb. On longer rides I'll do 15-18 miles with 1.8-2.2k ft of climb, but I'm usually pretty tired after those longer rides. Does this sound like the right bike for me? Also thoughts on the setup he has on it? I'm a heavier rider at 220lbs and I currently have a Rocky Mountain Instinct BC 160/155 with Fox Performance Elite components, so I was thinking the Zeb Ultimate at 160 would be better for me than the stock 34 given my weight. I guess I should also add that I plan to keep the RM too. I plan to use both, as no one I ride with has an e-bike. Although it appears it's common that quickly changes when analog riders make the switch

Appreciate all the discussion so far. I'm about 80 pages in Lots of very useful information from you all.

 

[George_KSL]

Never be embarassed to add ZEB fork to any bike regardless of skill or weight class :- ). It's on all my bikes, including wife's new to be Levo SL as well.
It's not about torsional rigidity people will claim here you only need if you weight 50 stones, the fork is just lot better in terms of performance compared to lighter weight forks like Lyrik or 36 (sole exception being EXT Era fork, but that one weights the same as ZEB, just thinner chassis). The larger negative chamber, larger volume of oil, etc.. means it rides much plusher than same generation of 2.1 Charger damper in Lyrik/Pike.
Did I say how amazing it looks? Setup is super easy, much much easier than Fox's Grip2 damper. Esp. for beginner and intermediate riders who don't need tons of mid-support (particularly through square edge hits). Stock tune is friendlier than Fox 36/38. And you don't need to take it apart to remove excess grease, it just works (ok except for low-speed compression dial eh.. but that is more on Select version than Ultimate).

 

[squeegee]

Just a share here for others--warranty service from Specialized

Comp Carbon SL about a year old, 1800 miles, just stops turning on, after experimenting find out will turn on with RE connected just not with main battery. Take to local bike store, they send error codes to Specialized. Turbo rep thinks problem is wiring harness, they send, problem persists. Next step is new battery, this was 2 weeks ago (lost a week because they "forgot" to ship battery), now another week for battery to come. Bike in shop now over a month. LBS mechanic thinks problem could be with motor too. I ask for new motor to be sent along with battery just in case, but Specialized has no motors in stock. All the while I'm getting screwed out of a shit ton of best riding days of the season. Specialized says slammed, uses pandemic excuse but can't manage to put a battery in a box when they say they will?

Pretty miserable expericence so far with Specialized, only exception that LBS says if parts don't arrive this week will strip parts from new SL to fix. Why Specialized can't put these parts on shelves of big dealers is beyond me. Why they don't send multiple parts if they can't diagnose correctly first try or aren't sure? Why is only ship point for Turbo parts in Utah? (1 week ship time to my area, lithium battery means no air shipments). Why can't the bike owner speak directly to Turbo reps? Why can't customer be privy to communication between Turbo dept and LBS? Why can't Specialized share warranty tracking information with customer when related to their own bike??

LBS is biggest Specialized dealer in the area, DC metro area eastern US. They have Sworks Kevevo SLs on the floor but can't service existing customers properly first, not their fault. Specialized says reinforcing Turbo department, they need it because this experience leaves nothing to be desired. Being made to wait over a month for warranty is just plain shit.

So irritated at the situation, love the bike but hard to love something you can't use.

 

[crembz]

17.670kg

I received my bike in a medium in the end. Still waiting for a shim to fit my diet but it looks like the frame will fit my 150mm dropper perfectly.

I have managed to get the weight down to 16.7kg ... Without doing silly things like puny tires and removing the main battery.

 

[George_KSL]

Did anyone measure insertion depth on Medium size? I wonder how slammed could 180mm OneUp Dropper v2 get.

Now v2 180mm is only 5mm taller than X-Fusion, but has very short actuator, so that length is an actual tube. X-Fusion is so long mainly because it has super long actuator (40 vs 15mm).
What I wonder is, is the short insertion depth of SL bikes due to overall bottom out which stops actuator at similar height as full diameter of tube?

Had the bike briefly sub 17kg as well, but after fitting front child seat mount (Thule Mini), ZEB and Cushcore XC it's 17.3 +/- . That's effectively everything carbon on the bike sans cranks, which honestly are big no-go with Praxis now :- ).

 

[crembz]

Did anyone measure insertion depth on Medium size? I wonder how slammed could 180mm OneUp Dropper v2 get.

Now v2 180mm is only 5mm taller than X-Fusion, but has very short actuator, so that length is an actual tube. X-Fusion is so long mainly because it has super long actuator (40 vs 15mm).
What I wonder is, is the short insertion depth of SL bikes due to overall bottom out which stops actuator at similar height as full diameter of tube?

Had the bike briefly sub 17kg as well, but after fitting front child seat mount (Thule Mini), ZEB and Cushcore XC it's 17.3 +/- . That's effectively everything carbon on the bike sans cranks, which honestly are big no-go with Praxis now :- ).

I don't have a 34.9mm straight post to test with.

I tried slamming the stock xfusion and it bottoms out 10mm from the collar. That gives an insert depth of 215mm from the bottom of the post but I can't tell if that's the actuator or post bottoming out. I also asked specialized rider care who said 216mm on the medium carbon, 215mm on the alloy. There is almost not benefit going to the smaller frame ... The insert depth for the small is 180mm according to spec.

I have been able to fully slam a 31.6 150mm axs dropper if that helps add another data point.

Btw, I have carbon cranks on my other bikes, they are by far the least useful part to get carbon Imo. I'd never buy carbon cranks again.

 

[George_KSL]

If it would allow actuator to go deeper, than going with shim + 31.6 wouldn't be bad hack at all :- ).

Funny, our X-Fusion Manic on Medium slammed 20 mm above collar, twice as you say. I didn't push super hard but it felt like that's the stop to me. Would the carbon bike seat tube have such manufacturing tolerances? It's not unusual with alloy frames (Commencal famous).

If you say Specialized manual says 215mm insertion, that actually aligns with my 20mm above collar (235 - 20 = 215). 235mm is X-Fusion length without actuator.
Well, that doesn't look so good to me...

 

[crembz]

If it would allow actuator to go deeper, than going with shim + 31.6 wouldn't be bad hack at all :- ).

Funny, our X-Fusion Manic on Medium slammed 20 mm above collar, twice as you say. I didn't push super hard but it felt like that's the stop to me. Would the carbon bike seat tube have such manufacturing tolerances? It's not unusual with alloy frames (Commencal famous).

If you say Specialized manual says 215mm insertion, that actually aligns with my 20mm above collar (235 - 20 = 215). 235mm is X-Fusion length without actuator.
Well, that doesn't look so good to me...

Are you measuring from the top or bottom of the dropper collar? It sounds like we're arriving at the same insert depths. Mine had a little resistance but I think it was the cable housing.

Yes I have the email from spec stating 216mm which is close to what I measured on the xfusion (not including the actuator).

The sworks levo SL uses a 30.9 axs dropper shimmed to fit so it's a legitimate fitment. You might actually get some additional clearance that way. My 150mm axs dropper like I mentioned can be slammed, which is a length of 225+23 (actuator). That suggests that either the stock dropper is limited by the actuator (and that's what spec measured) or that shimming a narrower dropper gains you significant insert depth.

If I had a 35mm dowel I'd try measuring it physically, but I live in the most locked down city on the planet so visiting the hw store to buy a dowel is BANNED.

 

[George_KSL]

It actually occurred to me why I am not just making a replica tube indeed :- D The baking paper looks like ideal size.

Oh well.. can you at least ride in local trails? Our lock-downs always allowed individual exercise in near vicinity.