My Chinese frame and motor build. The CHEEB, V1.0 - Build Thread

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Seems like Bafang do a load of display/control options? This looks to be the most minimal

View attachment 47911

Still a bit mahoosive IMO. I’m super impressed though with the build / fit and quality of the Bafang motor AND the frame. Literally a perfect fit - having had motors out of most bikes I’ve owned the quality of fit in the frame is comparable.

Also they included a throttle control. For about 5 seconds I thought it would be a good idea to fit ?

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Or even this one?

Home

Bafang description

bafang-e.com

View attachment 47912

Much better!

 

[patdam]

[/QUOTE]

Still a bit mahoosive IMO. I’m super impressed though with the build / fit and quality of the Bafang motor AND the frame. Literally a perfect fit - having had motors out of most bikes I’ve owned the quality of fit in the frame is comparable.

Also they included a throttle control. For about 5 seconds I thought it would be a good idea to fit ?

i have quickly tested in my street tonight. 1 more point, It is very more quieter than the shimano and no noise from the carbon frame. I am also satisfay, the throttle working well, it is the other raison why i want to replace my canyon, walk assist is unusable and on moutain it is necessary. You cannot test functioning on stand by turning crankarms, it need load on it. I have set it to 3 modes, on flat road, i not feel big power (less than the shimano), not necessary bad point, i will see tomorow on uphill howmany it assist

 

[Mteam]

We have the power

View attachment 47902

Blimey - and I thought the bosch kiox display was bad

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Blimey - and I thought the bosch kiox display was bad

Agree. This is not a looker.

However the entire motor, chainring, crank arms, speed sensor, fixture, fittings, controller and display only costs £485 so I can put up with a shit looking display. The Kiox alone is around £200.

 

[Zimmerframe]

Is that 'touch-screen' power mode switching??

DP E16X

The compact LED display delivers all important information at a glance, even in direct sunlight. Riders can switch between the motor's support levels using the integrated control buttons and the optional Bluetooth communication (DP E161) addresses the Bafang GO app.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Agree. This is not a looker.

However the entire motor, speed sensor, fixture, fittings, controller and display only costs £485 so I can put up with a shit looking display. The Kiox alone is around £200.

The SW102 is actually quite small in the flesh and only about £ 45.00, its not great in sunlight unfortunately, but good enough.

One of the great things about the Bafung engine is its already been stripped and shown how to be rebuilt on Youtube. There's already some aftermarket parts for it and it would appear the dreaded Euro speed limit looks like it can be adapted to our now American aspirations of speed limits.

 

[patdam]

New recomendations rob. first, if you can try it in 29" before "mulet". after ride, for my part i keep that and i will not mount an rear 27.5.

second point. It will be necessary to found an solution to avoid that a pebble gets stuck in the articulation of the oscillating arm, if this happens, something will break.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Nice tips thanks @patdam

mine pretty much ready now.

Just a few bits. Tidy cables, bleed brakes torque everything up etc

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

@patdam did your front bash guard bolt fit? It’s the only part on my bike that seemed not to fit correctly. Just the 2 rear screws fit, front two seem incorrect.

 

[patdam]

I have tested it today, for that i take several "hard" uphill, where i climb with max power to see battery autonomie (Range). Normally, I manage to empty it. Today i can doing, 1400 D+ , stay 40%. I think it is true, cause level stay stable, never decrease when motor working hard and go up after.

About motor. It is very different than shimano. It seem less powerful (slow power increase). I settled for use level 3. Between 1 and 2 you do not feel easily the difference when you switch up, but you really feel it when you switched down.

It is less "powered" but more "strong" and efficient, you do not need to have elevate legs RPM in hard uphill, i was able to go up that i cannot usually with the shimano.

I appreciate this functioning. I have mostly used the 2nd level, with torque sensor, the motor adapt power at your effort, at level 1, max power is not enough to climb easly everywhere, with second it is more simple and it can provide low power if you not applied strong effort on crankarms. You can feel it sometime at low speed, where programming hesitate between 2 level of assistance.

I think that level 1 is necessary if you plan an long travel or more than 2000 D+. But as I can do easily do 1500 D+, I think now will stay in level 2 and use level 3 only on uphill where i go up near the bike usually at these time.

Bad points. The throttle, I use it for walk mode, but it is too powerful, difficult to adjust speed to walk and if it stop front a stone (where you would to increased a few power with throttle), the programming say "error 21" (spreed sensor defect) and it is necessary to switch off/on the motor to continue. I will ask to bafang if it not possible to set the throttle to have max power at 100 wats (alike the setting i have done on BBS).

Walk mode is ineffective alike other motors on market.

Other minor bad point. You can display a lot of interesting information , but they are in too little characters, impossible to read for old man alike me !

 

[Zimmerframe]

Today i cannot, 1400 D+

For anyone unfamiliar, in France we use D+ for vertical meters - so 1400 meters climbed.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

have tested it today, for that i take several "hard" uphill, where i climb with max power to see battery autnomie. commonly i manage to empty it. Today i cannot, 1400 D+ , stay 40%. I think it is true, cause level stay stable, never decrease when motor working hard and go up after.



About motor. It is very different than shimano. It seem less powerfull (slow power increrase). I settled for use 3 level, between 1 and 2 you do not feel easly the difference when you switch up, but you really feel it when it switched down.

It is less "powered" but more "strong" and efficient, you do not need to have elevate legs RPM in hard uphill, i was able to go up that i cannot usuallly with the shimano.

I appreciate this functioning. I have mostly used the 2nd level, with torque sensor, the motor adapt power at your effort, at level 1, max power is not enough to climb easly everywhere, with second it is more simple and it can provide low power if you not applied strong effort on crankarms. You can feel it sometime at low speed, where programming hesitate beteween 2 level of assistance. I think that level 1 is necessary if you plan an long travel or more than 2000 D+. But as i can do easly 1500 D+, i think now i will stay in level 2 and use level 3 only on uphill where i go up near the bike usually at these time.



Bad points. The throttle, I use it for walk mode, but it is too powerfull, difficult to adjust speed to walk and if it stop front a stone (where you whould to increased a few power with throttle), the progamming say "error 21" (speeed sensor defect) and it is necessary to switch off/on the motor to continue. I will ask to bafang if it not possible to set the throttle to have max power at 100 wats (alike the setting i have done on BBS).
Walk mode is unefficient alike other motors on market,
Other minor bad point. you can displayed a lot of information very interestinf, but they are in too little characters, impossible to read for old man alike me.

What about power levels 4 and 5?

 

[patdam]

@patdam did your front bash guard bolt fit? It’s the only part on my bike that seemed not to fit correctly. Just the 2 rear screws fit, front two seem incorrect.

what is the bash guard ? the chain guide ? it use only 2 screws, it have several another hole for different orientation of the motor, i do not use the OEM chain guide, i have adapted another more little who do not need to dismatle the chain to remove it.

 

[patdam]

What about power levels 4 and 5?

you can set on display quantity of level (alike BBS) 9, 5 or 3. if you select 3 you use level 1 of 9, 2 = 5 of 9 and 3 is 9 of 9

 

[patdam]

There are quite a few guards you can buy which will protect that area. Unfortunately, most of them somehow funnel debris round the outside and down. I made my own in the end from a cheap "clip to your saddle" mudguard :

I hardly ever get any dirt in the lower linkage :

View attachment 48003
View attachment 48004

Just trim it to the correct length and width. Make some holes for Zip ties.

View attachment 48005

Mount it....

View attachment 48006

Bend it so it doesn't rub the frame - but is near enough that it doesn't act as a dirt funnel !

View attachment 48007

thanks for the suggestions. my interrogation is instal something rigid (alike your exemple) or flexible (piece of air chamber). I will see tomorrow

 

[patdam]

@patdam did your front bash guard bolt fit? It’s the only part on my bike that seemed not to fit correctly. Just the 2 rear screws fit, front two seem incorrect.

ok after help of translator, i have identify "bash guard", no problem with mine, the nut is part of bash guard and i have 2 little hole on carbone for countersunk head screw

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

ok after help of translator, i have identify "bash guard", no problem with mine, the nut is part of bash guard and i have 2 little hole on carbone for countersunk head screw

So no bolt in this hole here?

 

[Waynemarlow]

Just a few bits. Tidy cables, bleed brakes torque everything up etc

Have you solved the waterproofing issue with the battery cover yet ?

 

[patdam]

Have you solved the waterproofing issue with the battery cover yet ?

Not really, i have only performed holes in lower support to evacuate water concentration, for my opinion it is enougth. I take care also when i clean it with karcher, i have built an cover to avoid to project dirctely water on each side, at level of junction of battery cover and frame. I clean it after with sponge. If one day i plan to ride under water rain ((usually never occur) apply scotch plate on each side will prevent water infiltration. Of course, i hope that nobody will try to cross water upper the motor level ?

 

[patdam]

So no bolt in this hole here?

View attachment 48029

this the right hole for bash guard, but not the screw, normally you have 2 black screws with milled head (length +- 1 cm), if you need i will take pics.

 

[patdam]

This is a common fault report on other forums with the M600 motor, the throttle is only a zero to full on I'm afraid. After all isn't that what motorcycle throttles do

Have you see solution ? i am not any fluent in english (you have notted ?) to easly find it. i have built wire to connect controler to an application to ride canbus communication. It seem you can modified the program, but i do not really control this technical and i do not want to play with that. The only explaination found is for increase the speed limit, not necessity for me.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

this the right hole for bash guard, but not the screw, normally you have 2 black screws with milled head (length +- 1 cm), if you need i will take pics.

If you can share a picture that would help ?

I have the 2 screws for the bottom of the bash guard and they fit, but not the 2 screws for the side

 

[patdam]

Where is the little alloy (?) plate for on the upper end of the battery cover ?

On my bike only, it is custom modification. Battery suspended under frame is not a good solution for my point of view, I psychotic to lose it and i have tried to solve that

 

[patdam]

If you can share a picture that would help ?

I have the 2 screws for the bottom of the bash guard and they fit, but not the 2 screws for the side

bad picture, but i hope you can see. May be you are true and the screw lack on package ? I did not pay attention, i have changed several bolting. Screw used in SS come from my stock.

 

[Zimmerframe]

The M600 has been around for a while, the M500 much less so.

This video goes into some of the differences between the two. ie one is Pedalec (M500) and one Speed Pedalec (M600).

In the first couple of minutes he also gives his view on the assistance levels 1-5 with the M500.

 

[CRFan1]

So no bolt in this hole here?

View attachment 48029

Rob, That is the hole where the front of the skid plate bolts up to. It uses a countersunk screw and the skidplate itself has an encapsulated brass nut built into it. You slot the skid plate in and the countersunk screws mount to the front and the screw you are holding goes into the motor at the rear....

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Rob, That is the hole where the front of the skid plate bolts up to. It uses a countersunk screw and the skidplate itself has an encapsulated brass nut built into it. You slot the skid plate in and the countersunk screws mount to the front and the screw you are holding goes into the motor at the rear.... View attachment 48061

Cheers. It’s the countersunk screws that I don’t have. I have the rear 2 screws. Just not the front ones.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Pics

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

I measured the BB height. It’s pretty high at 355mm (ish, was a quick measure). Head angle of just under 64 degrees. 170 fork obviously had an impact here.

I might try some offset bushings to lower it a bit.

Feels LONG. 510mm reach is quoted. Not measured yet but it feels about right.

Chainstay is 455mm