92se-r
New Member
Additionally, some members have mentioned the cup is plastic which i have to admit i did not notice. I would say flex in that cup is probably most to blame.
Or the bearing is just out of spec. Going from memory here. But when I put the SZZS bearing cup in on my painted frame a little while back, I greased it then press fit by hand fairly easily (easier than the first stock ICR cup). Plus, it popped out very easily when I did the ICR frame conversion last week.The cup should not need to be glued in. The ZS zero stack cup presses in like any other pressed in cup. Then the bearing just drops in. The only reason that the cup might be glued in is that the headtube is not properly round etc.
I would inquire to szzs as to why it was glued in and what kind of glue was used rather than ripping up the headtube trying to get it out![]()
Mine was definitely aluminum. I got one of the first upgraded ICR headsets in October...so maybe they changed it up when they decided to glue the cups in. Very strange overall.Additionally, some members have mentioned the cup is plastic which i have to admit i did not notice. I would say flex in that cup is probably most to blame.
Mine is aluminum as well. I received I believe the second integration of the headset. Not the most recent one with 4 individual holes. My bearing measures just under 52mm all around then the cup is all out of whack. I messaged the seller to see what they say but with shipping times I would prefer to knock it out and replace it with a nukeproof.Mine was definitely aluminum. I got one the first upgraded ICR headsets in October...so maybe they changed it up when they decided to glue the cups in. Very strange overall.![]()
Yeah, Mike Kelly and a few others are successfully using the entire NP upper headset assembly...so far no complaints have been voicedMine is aluminum as well. I received I believe the second integration of the headset. Not the most recent one with 4 individual holes. My bearing measures just under 52mm all around then the cup is all out of whack. I messaged the seller to see what they say but with shipping times I would prefer to knock it out and replace it with a nukeproof.
mine was aluminum one. I'm very doubtful about plastic cup, this would probably bend flex and break when tightening the preload screw. Maybe you've mistaken it with the info about the cone, which is plastic (PTFE)?Additionally, some members have mentioned the cup is plastic which i have to admit i did not notice. I would say flex in that cup is probably most to blame.
All right. Bravely done!Just a small update if anyone is interested. I purchased a headset cup removal tool and it knocked out very easily. There was a little adhesive on the cup but nothing too excessive. I'm just waiting on the new headset. I'll let everyone know how the nukeproof install goes when I have it!
The snow is melting here in Alaska, I need to make some moves to be ready for some riding!All right. Bravely done!![]()
YesHi guys, can anyone confirm the lower NUKEPROOF NEUTRON ZS66/40 fits cef50? Thanks
You might be right. Many members here do not speak english as native language so they might have meant the split ring.mine was aluminum one. I'm very doubtful about plastic cup, this would probably bend flex and break when tightening the preload screw. Maybe you've mistaken it with the info about the cone, which is plastic (PTFE)?
That's good to hear. Have you opened the headset and inspected for any cable gauging/ pinching due to the bearing and spacer? Also, how did you route the display cable through the grommets? Did you cut a slit from the cable entry to the outside of the grommet? Pictures would be much appreciated. Thanks.I used only ACROS on my CEF50 and it works perfectly.
My bad, I forgot there are two different forums for the routing of the cables. I used Acros NON-INTEGRATED. I have no experience with integrated cables. Sorry again but wish you best of luck.That's good to hear. Have you opened the headset and inspected for any cable gauging/ pinching due to the bearing and spacer? Also, how did you route the display cable through the grommets? Did you cut a slit from the cable entry to the outside of the grommet? Pictures would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Well there's definitely a few more options with traditional.The stupid headset routing is another reason why I'm looking to move from an LCE930 over to a CEF50 with frame side cable ports.
Well, here is the trick not too cut housings when removing the compression nut: squeeze the olive with a plier several times turning the housing every time 1/4 of a turn, so that you end up braking it. If you can set some kind of locking mechanism to avoid flattening the inner pin, you can even save this one if you’re gentle. Worst case, you split the olive and squeeze the inner pin, you just have to remove this one with pliers and good you go!Remember to have an extra olive and leaving the brake line a tad longer since you’ll have to cut it when changing the headset.
As an engineer the ICR is the most nonsense thing i’ve seen in a while.
These (both top and bottom) are exactly what I ordered last summer for my CEF50 and they work perfectly though I did gently tap out the stock bottom bearing cup to use the one that came from Acros. The nomenclature is confusing.I’m a bit confused about factory data’s and your experience: they do specify numbers from 52 to 62 or 52 to 66. Since I will defo upgrade this critical component, I wanna make sure with you guys what do I need to order prior to receiving the frame!
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