Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[Cigales]

Hi,
I would like some advice on a motor purchase. The seller has made me a video with the the motor he intends to send me.
I've asked him to video the motor before sending in order to confirm it is in working condition.
The first motor I bought had little to no power and the full speed of the motor was very slow.

But it seems that he's motor has exactly the same behaviour.
Could someone confirm if this is a normal speed for the rotor?

Keep in mind, this is a bench test with no speed sensor and a 52V UART setup. How fast does your motors turn when full throttle?

EDIT 1: do you guy think this be could be caused buy no battery communication? I bought my battery from DTBattery.com based on recommendation from @Mabman. From past experience, battery communication is not neccessary as long as you can supply the right amount of current.

Here is a video:

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

There is no battery communication with the ultra motor.

Bit without speed sensor working, it will only run for about 1-2 seconds and then throw an error 21 code. And stop working

 

[Cigales]

There is no battery communication with the ultra motor.

Bit without speed sensor working, it will only run for about 1-2 seconds and then throw an error 21 code. And stop working

Yes your right but even without the speed sensor, should I still see faster rotation?
How fast does your crank rotate when full throttle?

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Looks plenty fast to me. It's going so fast that the frame capture rate of the video recording makes it appear slow.

 

[TeoElFeo]

Yes your right but even without the speed sensor, should I still see faster rotation?
How fast does your crank rotate when full throttle?

Have you already tested the motor with the frame? Maybe the whole thing doesn't work correctly without the speed sensor as Bram suggested

 

[Cigales]

Yes, I've used the original motor with the frame and with speed sensor connected. I set the settings from Frey Smooth Settings (using usb adapter to configure) and I use an Eggrider display. But the motor would only output a small amount of power as well as slow top speed.
The video you see there, is the a video from the seller to confirm that the motor is in working condition before sending it to me. But I feel does not look like a fully functional motor. I expect a much faster speed of rotation.

Here is another video I made a few weeks before which show how slow the bike is on a flat surface.

 

[Swannking]

Hi,
I would like some advice on a motor purchase. The seller has made me a video with the the motor he intends to send me.
I've asked him to video the motor before sending in order to confirm it is in working condition.
The first motor I bought had little to no power and the full speed of the motor was very slow.

But it seems that he's motor has exactly the same behaviour.
Could someone confirm if this is a normal speed for the rotor?

Keep in mind, this is a bench test with no speed sensor and a 52V UART setup. How fast does your motors turn when full throttle?

EDIT 1: do you guy think this be could be caused buy no battery communication? I bought my battery from DTBattery.com based on recommendation from @Mabman. From past experience, battery communication is not neccessary as long as you can supply the right amount of current.

Here is a video:


View attachment 108912

Check the rpm of your motor at full throttle. Here is the specs. For 52V system, it should be around 180.

 

[Swannking]

Check the rpm of your motor at full throttle. Here is the specs. For 52V system, it should be around 180.

View attachment 108955

Have you checked the top speed in your eggrider settings?

 

[Cigales]

Have you checked the top speed in your eggrider settings?

I've set it to 100Km/h for both road and off road. Made sure to set a high value to prevent any limitations. Maybe it's too high and off chart?

Check the rpm of your motor at full throttle. Here is the specs. For 52V system, it should be around 180.

That's an interesting thing to check, i'll get that done tomorrow.
Thanks

 

[Swannking]

Have you checked the top speed in your eggrider settings?

How about no throttle and just pedaling?

 

[Cigales]

How about no throttle and just pedaling?

Exactly the same as throttle. I get hardly any power out of the motor. It's basically a normal leg powered bike!
At first I thought it may be the torque sensor, then I installed the throttle and realised I ended with the same behaviour; hardly any power and speed.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Definietly not normal power output. Hard to see in the video, but what does the voltage drop too? Looks like 30-40v ????

Possibly a battery / BMS / wiring / connector issue.

 

[Cigales]

Definietly not normal power output. Hard to see in the video, but what does the voltage drop too? Looks like 30-40v ????

Possibly a battery / BMS / wiring / connector issue.

I don't see any major voltage drop. In the first video on the road the bike starts with 58.4V and drops to 57.8V. 0.6V votlage drop/sag is quite resonable.

Yeah I should check the battery. I got it from DTbattery.com recommended by @Mabman
Any ideas how to test a battery? The wiring is all good. The default anderson connectors seem ok, should I change them? BMS, not sure how to test it?

 

[Barni]

It looks like a walking mode. Only 6 km/h.

 

[Cigales]

It looks like a walking mode. Only 6 km/h.

Yeah, that's pretty much what it feels like. I wonder is it's not a bug of Eggrider, but then again I also get the same result with other displays like DCP10 or C961.

 

[Mabman]

I seriously doubt it is the battery if it is putting out the correct voltage, sounds more like an issue with the controller/programming?

 

[Cigales]

I seriously doubt it is the battery if it is putting out the correct voltage, sounds more like an issue with the controller/programming?

Well I did try two controllers with same result.
Maybe I need to try reprogramming it. Maybe It did something wrong.

 

[Mabman]

Well I did try two controllers with same result.
Maybe I need to try reprogramming it. Maybe It did something wrong.

I just got my $100 windows laptop back from my friend in order to capture the tune that has been successful for mine and another Z1. Unfortunately now if I plug into it and hit connect I get a serial port error and I know nothing about Windows 10 in order to solve it? Worked just fine last time I used it? If I can get it figured out I'll post on here the tune parameters.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

I just got my $100 windows laptop back from my friend in order to capture the tune that has been successful for mine and another Z1. Unfortunately now if I plug into it and hit connect I get a serial port error and I know nothing about Windows 10 in order to solve it? Worked just fine last time I used it? If I can get it figured out I'll post on here the tune parameters.

Try plugging in to different plugs on the computer.

I've seen similar issues like this where when you first plug in, it install drivers, and then it only works with that plug in the future.

 

[Swannking]

Well I did try two controllers with same result.
Maybe I need to try reprogramming it. Maybe It did something wrong.

Motor controller, not the display? Can you upload here some of the settings for us to take a look.?

 

[Bengy22]

Well I did try two controllers with same result.
Maybe I need to try reprogramming it. Maybe It did something wrong.

This might be a important clue, the m620 uses a magnet to get hall outputs and miss aligning it can mess it up, if you swapped out the controllers you might have accidentally hit the magnet moving it or the controllers were not setup / configured for your motor to start with. I know greenbikekit sells a screen that's only purpose is as a tool to pair them together. And using 250+ watts at that speed seems stupid high to me, the halls not being correct could cause a higher power usage

 

[Cigales]

Motor controller, not the display? Can you upload here some of the settings for us to take a look.?

Yes motor controllers, although I have tested several displays in case it was the display that was causing issues.
I'll post the settings tonight after work. But basically it was either default settings or Frey's Ultra Smooth settings.

This might be a important clue, the m620 uses a magnet to get hall outputs and miss aligning it can mess it up, if you swapped out the controllers you might have accidentally hit the magnet moving it or the controllers were not setup / configured for your motor to start with. I know greenbikekit sells a screen that's only purpose is as a tool to pair them together. And using 250+ watts at that speed seems stupid high to me, the halls not being correct could cause a higher power usage

You may be referring to the C961 calibration display. I bought that display also when buying the replacement controller. But I never managed to calibrate the motor/controller. Your supposed to get a specific error code when the calibration is finished. But I never did, I would always get the error codes that are considered not calibrated. This is when I asked to get a replacement motor because I thought it may be the motor itself. And for info, I disconnected the temp sensor hoping it would fix the issues because it may be sending the bad temperature value (technically it a resistance value) and the controller would slow the motor for over heat protection. But a disconnected temp sensor creates an error 11. So I connected it back.

C961 Callibration Display:

https://www.greenbikekit.com/upload/pdf/Bafang-M620-G510-UART-controller-calibration-LCD-.pdf

I'll post a video tonight that shows the unsuccessfully calibration process.

I just got my $100 windows laptop back from my friend in order to capture the tune that has been successful for mine and another Z1. Unfortunately now if I plug into it and hit connect I get a serial port error and I know nothing about Windows 10 in order to solve it? Worked just fine last time I used it? If I can get it figured out I'll post on here the tune parameters.

Restart the computer in order to shut down any other application that may be using the serial port. After restart, plug in another port, then launch the software. You could also try re-installing the drivers.

 

[Swannking]

Yes motor controllers, although I have tested several displays in case it was the display that was causing issues.
I'll post the settings tonight after work. But basically it was either default settings or Frey's Ultra Smooth settings.


You may be referring to the C961 calibration display. I bought that display also when buying the replacement controller. But I never managed to calibrate the motor/controller. Your supposed to get a specific error code when the calibration is finished. But I never did, I would always get the error codes that are considered not calibrated. This is when I asked to get a replacement motor because I thought it may be the motor itself. And for info, I disconnected the temp sensor hoping it would fix the issues because it may be sending the bad temperature value (technically it a resistance value) and the controller would slow the motor for over heat protection. But a disconnected temp sensor creates an error 11. So I connected it back.

C961 Callibration Display:

https://www.greenbikekit.com/upload/pdf/Bafang-M620-G510-UART-controller-calibration-LCD-.pdf

I'll post a video tonight that shows the unsuccessfully calibration process.



Restart the computer in order to shut down any other application that may be using the serial port. After restart, plug in another port, then launch the software. You could also try re-installing the drivers.

You need to calibrate the motor after changing the controller.

 

[Cigales]

You need to calibrate the motor after changing the controller.

Yes I know. I replaced the controller, then tried to calibrate it. It didn't work.

Motor controller, not the display? Can you upload here some of the settings for us to take a look.?

Here are my settings, I've just programmed them again and made sure they were read back to me. I also made a screenshot during continuous reading for torq sensor.

 

[Swannking]

Yes I know. I replaced the controller, then tried to calibrate it. It didn't work.


Here are my settings, I've just programmed them again and made sure they were read back to me. I also made a screenshot during continuous reading for torq sensor.

View attachment 109228 View attachment 109229 View attachment 109230 View attachment 109231 View attachment 109232

How did you calibrate the controller? I used the C961 display.

 

[Cigales]

How did you calibrate the controller? I used the C961 display.

I followed the manual procedure: (https://www.greenbikekit.com/upload/pdf/Bafang-M620-G510-UART-controller-calibration-LCD-.pdf)

The calibration process begins with Er 41 and the wheel starts to turn.
After I few seconds, the process ends with Er 84.
I've tried several times either with the chain connected or without the chain. Sometimes it end with Er 96 the motor would still stutter when manually throttled.

 

[Swannking]

I followed the manual procedure: (https://www.greenbikekit.com/upload/pdf/Bafang-M620-G510-UART-controller-calibration-LCD-.pdf)

View attachment 109257

The calibration process begins with Er 41 and the wheel starts to turn.
After I few seconds, the process ends with Er 84.
I've tried several times either with the chain connected or without the chain. Sometimes it end with Er 96 the motor would still stutter when manually throttled.

Did you get err44 at the end? If not, you will have to keep trying. It might take a few times.

 

[Cigales]

No never Er44. I've tried about 10 times over two days. Yeah your right, I'll try more.

 

[Mabman]

@Cigales here is a shot of the torque tab I am using:

There are some pretty major discrepancies from the tune you have posted it appears but I am not smart enough to determine if there is any answer to your problem all I know is that it works on my motor which puts out full power?

Edit: I had posted the wrong torque tab yesterday this is the correct one that I use.
As an experiment yesterday while I had the computer out I installed the last two tunes in the spreadsheet found here:
Bafang Ultra "Smooth" tune by Mike at Frey

Neither one worked well enough for me to abandon the one that I use. I had already tried the Smooth tune one and my Z1 came standard with the Luna tune. Also neither of which worked for me. Mostly to do with pedal feel relating to psi at single track pace and run on issues. I don't mind a little run on at higher speeds on the road because I can back off the pedals and let it make the shift for me but don't like it in the lower modes. I suppose I should also add the rest of my tabs, I apologize for the picture quality ones but I don't know how to make a screen capture in Windows.....

Comparing yours to mine across the board we share little in common it seems? I don't know if the answer to your lack of power issue lies in there but I know for sure that this tune does work for me as well as my friend and his Z1. I especially like how the throttle acts within these parameters. When I got the bike with the LUna tune it would about buck you off during startup which is the only time I use it. It has a nice soft start now.

Also yes I do use a 52v battery most of the time but also have a 48v one too, both from DT with 21700 cells. Quite frankly I can run either without changing anything, even the option for 52v/48v on the display, and they both run the tune just fine. However I do like the 52v for it's hot off the charger higher voltage which gets me to the trailhead up the road faster......I also think the 52v has slightly better range but also it has been improving somewhat it seems with use and I don't use the 48v much? Not very scientific I know, sorry.

 

[Cigales]

@Cigales here is a shot of the torque tab I am using:

<image>

There are some pretty major discrepancies from the tune you have posted it appears but I am not smart enough to determine if there is any answer to your problem all I know is that it works on my motor which puts out full power?

One thing I noticed is you don't show any values in the Coninuous Get column? The way I understood it when I re-set my values originally is that you need to post up on your pedals and hit the get button and then the continuous get tab. I know when I did it and then when my friend did his we had different values appear?

I should add that all the other tabs were close enough that I don't think there is anything there of value.

BTW I obviously figured out what I was doing wrong, forgot to put a COM value in before trying to connect!

Thank you for the taking the time to post these values. Is this for a 52V setup?

You are mistaken, I did post a screenshot with the Continuous Get column. Check the last picture. And yes I stood all my weight only on the left pedal while using the back break. That is the value I get:

• Can you show the Controller Info table please? I'm curious to see the values like Limit Current.