Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[Mabman]

I've been riding ebikes for over 20yrs and have yet to have one with brake cutoffs and never had issue 1 due to that. My current bike is a 52v M620 powered bike.

 

[Dado]

Same here. I had only HD motor with brake sensors. More complication then pros.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Thanks for the info Neeko! I’m running 220mm up front and 200mm rear. Most importantly wanted to know if I didn’t plug those brake sensors into something if it would affected the computer?

No, it won't. Although, those brake cut-off sensors look like like they need to be stuck to the levers with adhesive strips.
If you're worried about the two connectors attached to the wire harness/loom, tuck them back inside the frame within the headtube area slightly above the upper battery mount

 

[BafangGang]

No, it won't. Although, those brake cut-off sensors look like like they need to be stuck to the levers with adhesive strips.
If you're worried about the two connectors attached to the wire harness/loom, tuck them back inside the frame within the headtube area slightly above the upper battery mount

Done! I tell you what getting all the wires to fit between the motor and the frame was a challenge. I’m waiting on my Zeb fork to arrive then I’ll have all the pieces to complete the build.

 

[BafangGang]

Does anyone know if SRAM UDH works for the e22? Wanted to get a few spar Derailleur hangers and can’t seem to find the e22 hanger online. Greenbikekit is sold out.

 

[Dado]

No, does not work as far as I know.

 

[BafangGang]

Thanks for all the help. May be the most expensive E22 to date!

Loving all the power and capabilities. The hybrid system with pedal power, pedal assist and throttle really make this bike stand out from the rest.

I will primarily use this for bike packing. First trip this Friday!

Purchased a second battery from greenbikekit.com and storing it in my down tube bag. Going to max out both batteries and let you know true range. I personally like the fitness aspect so will be riding mostly in level 1 with occasional throttle assist.

View attachment IMG_0812.jpeg

 

[Mabman]

"I personally like the fitness aspect so will be riding mostly in level 1 with occasional throttle assist."

You'll be getting all of that and at a snails pace to boot.....My Z1 without the extra weight is 0 fun to ride in level 1.

 

[Red Speed]

My custom case is ready to be shipped off to Jimmy now (once I've cleaned it!), I'm so excited

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Hello, I also drive an E22. I'm from Switzerland and have been looking for a box like this for a long time. Can you send me one or two of these to Switzerland; I would pay the money with Paypal? Is this possible?

 

[giczalec]

Both end-cap printed now
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It show 14S5P 21700 so based on 4Ah cells? Does it fit for first revision of E10 or just for second one?

 

[twistgripper]

MAX 29" TIRE SIZE? I know someone posted the max in specs is 29x2.4... but has anyone mounted 2.6 - clearance issues?

Kind of critical as im switching to 29er and need to decide on rim width to buy...prefer 35mm for 2.6 tire.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

I never tried a 29er 35mm internal rim on the E22 @twistgripper.

My E22 in the end was ran as a full 29er with a 30mm internal rim rear wheel with a DHR2 2.4

This is how much clearance I had.

Personally, I don't think a 29x2.6 rear tyre would offer sufficient clearance

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

MAX 29" TIRE SIZE? I know someone posted the max in specs is 29x2.4... but has anyone mounted 2.6 - clearance issues?

Kind of critical as im switching to 29er and need to decide on rim width to buy...prefer 35mm for 2.6 tire.

Why you want 2.6" wide anyways? 2.4" is gonna be a better bet for almost all riding situations.

 

[twistgripper]

why 2.6? 3 reasons:
1. for max traction - we get a lot of loose dirt over hardpack, roots, slippery rocks etc - love the traction i get with the 27.5x2.8 - never had better.
2. bigger air cushion - less pinch flats, tire damage, less damaging to trails, small bump absorption.
3. also want to max out bb clearance for pedal strikes...
If i were a more skillful rider i might want skinnier...but that's not me and im too old to think i'll get much better.
but it looks like i might get away with 2.5...but 2.6 might rub... I don't ride in mud much so not worried about clogging up the bike.

 

[twistgripper]

thanks neeko the pic is helpful as a rough gauge...

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Interesting. Pretty much opposite experience for me. I've always found smaller tyres bite better for most terrain. Unless soft sand maybe.

Big ones wiggle and squirm when you load them around corners. Just don't feel right when your hooking. Much faster corner speed on 2.3/2.4 i reckon.

Big ones pinch worse, so then you need thicker casings.

And then they are Big slugs that rob you of speed/flow every rotation. (Not as much an issue with ultra power. But still noticable enough)

 

[twistgripper]

around here we have near perfect loamy trails and some hardpack dusty trails. lots of roots and rocks. the bigger air cushion can prevent pinch flats by providing a larger cushion before the rubber ever contacts rim and cuts it - very tire pressure dependent though, too low and obviously its gonna pinch just as easy.
my previous non ebike trail bike had 2.6 on them and cornering felt very good to me. bike before that came with 2.3 high rollers and traction was terrible for me - changed to 2.5 and felt it was better.
...but now on the dengfu - i bought mabman's old luna takeoff wheels for my original build and (i think i know why he got rid of them now) I think its the wheel not the tire that is feeling squirmy, actually sketchy as hell - so im upgrading to extremely strong rims/spokes for the 29 build...

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Yeah dunno. Go down to any trail network and look at what the fastest guys ride. No one rides more than 2.5 garanteed. All the pro DH / EWS riders run around 2.4 mostly, and they ride the Rockiest rootiest loamiest terrain there is, at speeds faster that most will ever go on pavement. There is a reason why.

 

[twistgripper]

Yeah dunno. Go down to any trail network and look at what the fastest guys ride. No one rides more than 2.5 garanteed. All the pro DH / EWS riders run around 2.4 mostly, and they ride the Rockiest rootiest loamiest terrain there is, at speeds faster that most will ever go on pavement. There is a reason why.

If they ran wide tires they'd be slower... I know that. and racers get flats sometimes too... they have to strike a fine balance between speed and durability...I don't.

Wider rim= stiffer wheel which is what i want
Wider tire = better grip I find and thats safer which is more important to me than speed.

I'm not the only one who thinks so... from article at MBaction.com: WOULD WIDER TIRES MAKE YOU A BETTER RIDER? - Mountain Bike Action Magazine
Aaron Chamberlain - Maxxis: Wider rims let riders run lower tire pressures, improving ride quality and traction. Those are great benefits; .....If you want a pillowy ride with a large margin for error, go with plus. On the other hand, if you want a sportier, more responsive ride, Wide Trail is your best bet. (article was about the new wide trail tires from maxxis for context)
Scott Parsons - Ridefast: "(2.6-inch tires) offer many of the same benefits that plus-bike riders are seeking, such as improved traction and forgiveness, at a lower, more performance-oriented weight (compared to plus tires) and with less uncontrolled air volume, which leads to more predictable handling across more conditions. The new 2.6-inch tires may also convert some current 2.35- to 2.5-inch tire riders (also for the improved traction and forgiveness), but I don’t think they will entirely replace standard-width trail tires simply because many people ride in conditions where standard trail tires offer plenty of traction and cornering capability but at lower, more pedal- or climb-friendly weights.
Alex Applegate - Bontrager: A 2.4 tire will generally have a more precise feel. They require more pressure, but, when tuned to the right psi for a given rider, will have a little more lateral support for a more consistent feel under hard cornering. A 2.8 tire will absorb the trail a little more and give a rider some added traction and confidence but have less sidewall stiffness, so hard cornering in berms can feel a little wallowy for really aggressive riders. In many ways, yeah, with 2.6 you get a lot of the benefits of bigger tread—traction, cornering, lower tire pressures and compliance—all without a lot of the drawbacks of added weight and less sidewall stability in hard corners. An intermediate rider will see an immediate increase in confidence with a 2.8 tire, while a very aggressive rider could overpower it and may be best suited to the precise feel of a 2.4 tire. Clayton Wangbichler - WTB: We love the benefits of high-volume tires and look to increase performance in any and every way possible. (with wider rims) The support is increased, but, more important, the support isn’t lost when running lower pressures. Elite-level enduro athletes are running pressures in the teens where they would have had to run over 30 psi to run tubeless.... it all comes down to personal belief and what is most important to you. For some people, it’s all about lightweight rims and tires with lightweight casings. High-volume tires may not be for those people. Others seek traction above all else. Those folks will love a wide 2.5-inch tire. My personal opinion is to run bigger, burlier tires. If they hurt on the climb, then they’re making you stronger. I promise you they’ll be more fun and durable on the descent. Also, know that a lot of times added effort comes from loss of traction. Stay hooked up on the climbs and you’ll conserve energy while minimizing overall body fatigue. Stay hooked up on the descent and each one of your pedal strokes will go farther.
Matt Thompson - DT Swiss: Wider rims and tires also improve cornering and climbing traction. For riders who prefer the impressive traction and cushion of plus tires, 35–40mm rims fit the bill
As rim and tire widths increase, the bike may feel more confidence-inspiring. Wider rims and lower tire pressures help absorb trail chatter, improve climbing traction and increase cornering grip. At the plus end of the spectrum, the smoothness of the bike’s ride noticeably improves, along with improved traction potential. However, rolling resistance increases as well, and the bike may feel a bit slower or “sluggish.” Another factor to consider—if your bike has the frame clearance to switch between plus and 29er wheelsets—is the bottom bracket height can change when switching wheelsets. I’ve often found moving from plus wheels to a 29er setup gives a bit more pedal clearance, preventing annoying pedal strikes. That said, most riders who try plus tire sizes love the riding experience and often choose plus bikes as a primary or secondary ride.

So you see, their statements align with my stated preferences, along with reiterating that fatter tires get better traction.. just because it's not your preference does not make me wrong. I'm sure you're a faster, more aggressive and likely more skilled rider than me..and thats great..my tire choices are unlikely ideal FOR YOU.

 

[Pavel134]

Hello,
I am considering buying an E22 frame for ebike build. The battery will be DIY.
I will give this project the green light only if 1500 Wh (or more) battery would be possible to fit.
To calculate whether this is possible, I need some frame measurements that I couldn't find online.

I would appreciate if someone could help me with any of the following questions:
1. Is there some kind of bulkhead (not sure if that's the correct term) inside the down tube in front of the opening.
Making a battery only the length of down tube opening is a big waste of space. There's a lot of space in front too, which I intend to use.

2. Down tube opening length?
3. Internal width and height of the battery compartment?

All questions apply to a 20"(L) frame and not including cables, holders, etc. Bare frame dimensions only.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mabman]

I use the standard case with a custom 52v 15ah 21700 cell battery in a medium frame, my friends L is not substantially larger btw, and there is no way that there is room for another 750wh unless you hang it out of the opening and make a new cover to fit. There is a bulkhead at the top of the DT also that may or may not be a structural aspect of the frame?

 

[Bengy22]

Hello,
I am considering buying an E22 frame for ebike build. The battery will be DIY.
I will give this project the green light only if 1500 Wh (or more) battery would be possible to fit.
To calculate whether this is possible, I need some frame measurements that I couldn't find online.

I would appreciate if someone could help me with any of the following questions:
1. Is there some kind of bulkhead (not sure if that's the correct term) inside the down tube in front of the opening.
Making a battery only the length of down tube opening is a big waste of space. There's a lot of space in front too, which I intend to use.

2. Down tube opening length?
3. Internal width and height of the battery compartment?

All questions apply to a 20"(L) frame and not including cables, holders, etc. Bare frame dimensions only.

Thanks in advance.

I would strongly consider the E55 for your needs, it has a a stock battery case of 56 21700's. If you use 6ah 21700's in that case you could get to 1200wh, and the E55 in large has more than enough room to fit a range extender, 14s1p would be another 300wh. I believe the E22 can also fit a 14s4p with little to no mods but its going to be a way tighter fix. Not to mention the E55 could probably easily fit a 14s5p setup in a diy softpack config

 

[Pavel134]

I use the standard case with a custom 52v 15ah 21700 cell battery in a medium frame, my friends L is not substantially larger btw, and there is no way that there is room for another 750wh unless you hang it out of the opening and make a new cover to fit.

I will make the battery from scratch, even the case. I have a couple of ideas on how to fit a higher capacity. Without battery hanging out of course.

There is a bulkhead at the top of the DT also that may or may not be a structural aspect of the frame?

Thanks! At least this is clear now. Although, this raises another question: how far from the opening bulkhead is located.

I would strongly consider the E55 for your needs

Agreed. E55 was the first option I considered. I just like the look of the E22 frame better.

 

[Bengy22]

Agreed. E55 was the first option I considered. I just like the look of the E22 frame better.

If you look at the E55 thread you will find I also agree with this, just depends if you are willing to do all the work to make a larger battery fit including permanent mods to the frame, vs a native fit.

@Daxxie has done the frame modifications to his E23, which is the same frame but a wider rear triangle. 14s5p with some frame mods, if you used 6ah 21700s that would be right at 1500wh. I couldn't find a whole lot of his postings on here but I've seen him more active on other forums. Here's a link to a different one where he shows it off more and the frame before and after mods. Interestingly enough you can even find someone claiming 14s6p in that thread with a softpack in two pieces, looks to be using every bit of the space with how the bms is mounted. And I also have seen someone build a 14s2p extension in the triangle for even more capacity if needed. Dengfu E06 - Bafang Ultra - Innotrace 3500W