Dengfu E22 Frame Thread

[Dave Rand]

Looking awesome

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

A few more bits and pieces on the bike.

Rear shock is in. In the end i used the offset bush's which allows me to run the 230/65 shock without any problems.

With standard concentric bushings, there is just about 10mm clearance between the shock yoke, and the forward edge of the seat tube. (As seen with the blue allen key as a feeler guage)

Each offset bushs adjusts by about 2mm. Adding the 2 offset bushings increases the effective length of the shock by about 4mm to a total of 234mm.

With the offset bushings installed, the gap between the shock yoke and the seat stay closes down to about 5-6mm. Which is ample clearance.
The 230/65 shock, with offset bushs, bottom outs out at almost the exact same posistion as a standard 230/60 shock with standard bushings. Well technically, 1mm deeper into its stroke. Which is no problem, and does not cause the seat stays to foul the seat tube at full bottom out.
The only problem I can see with this setup is the potential for the offset bushings to rotate over time, which would them throw everything out of whack and potentially cause fouling on bottom out.

I got the steerer tube cut down, and fitted up the stem, bars, grips, brakes and controls. Mounted up the front brake to the fork. And put the throttle on the right side above the shifters. My thinking was that way I can't simultaneously shift and give it gas at the same time. It was tight and I wasn't super happy with the alignment of everything.

I stupidly tried to adjust the GX eagle shifter blade position, and didn't realise its not actually adjustable, and when I undid the central screw, the entire shifter mechanism fell apart, with springs and what's its going flying in every direction. It took me a good few hours to reassemble the shifter mechanism. What a night mare. I am used to the X01 on my other bike which has an adjustable trigger posistion.

 

[djol]

Looking great @bram.biesiekierski !

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

I also put some tubeless sealant into the tyres and got them all pumped up. Rear had been sitting for a while, and front i ended up buying a new DT swiss m1900 29er, and Maxxins dissector 29x2.4.

I can't get the dpc24 display to fit my bars, it's too small for the 35mm bar diameter. So I might look at getting a less obtrusive display that I can mount to these bars. I can force the dpc24 over the 35mm bars, but it needs longer screws, and isn't ideal. But I think I could do it just to get the bike going if need be.

Im still waiting for the battery, and the Christini spider, and the e13 crank arms. Once those are hear, it' should be time to go riding

 

[Waynemarlow]

I can't get the dpc24 display to fit my bars, it's too small for the 35mm bar diameter. So I might look at getting a less obtrusive display that I can mount to these bars. I can force the dpc24 over the 35mm bars, but it needs longer screws, and isn't ideal. But I think I could do it just to get the bike going if need be.

Look on Ebay there was a guy advertising a spacer that made up the difference. I think if you also search the original E10 thread there was a link for it on there.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

It's not ideal @bram.biesiekierski. but a P Clip was the method I used to secure the display onto a 35mm bar with my E10

Something like this. Simply remove the existing band off the display and use a 20x2.5mm bolt (with washers to attach the display.
The P Clip I used was a 32mm rubber band which is usually used to secure pannier racks on seat stays.

Again, it's not ideal. But it a hack which myself and others have used

 

[thaeber]

German Engineering

 

[thaeber]

Keep a close eye on Your shock mount with the offset bushing assembled to increase shock length. On offset website they do not recommend this way of assembling, as You allready mentioned there is a risk they may rotate. At the aluminum yoke I would drill and tap a little hole for a grub screw (M3) to lock it. On the frame mount, no idea…

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Keep a close eye on Your shock mount with the offset bushing assembled to increase shock length. On offset website they do not recommend this way of assembling, as You allready mentioned there is a risk they may rotate. At the aluminum yoke I would drill and tap a little hole for a grub screw (M3) to lock it. On the frame mount, no idea…

Yes. I am a little concerned it could rotate.

I did peen punch dents into the ends of the bushs so they had some grip when sandwiched into the mounts.

I do like your idea of a small screw or pin even to locate the one inside the yoke. I will see if that's possible when I'm next working on the bike.

If it does become a problem. It is very easy to simply lock the travel out to 60mm and put standard bushings in. I may even do that anyways. I really don't think I'm gonna use all the travel with the 550# cane creek progressive spring in there. It feels firm. Alot firmer than my regular 550# rockshox spring in the other bike.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

View attachment 90098
It's not ideal @bram.biesiekierski. but a P Clip was the method I used to secure the display onto a 35mm bar with my E10
View attachment 90099
Something like this. Simply remove the existing band off the display and use a 20x2.5mm bolt (with washers to attach the display.
The P Clip I used was a 32mm rubber band which is usually used to secure pannier racks on seat stays.

Again, it's not ideal. But it a hack which myself and others have used

I see. Yes that is an option. But call me pedantic, I really want to keep it looking clean. Not a janky homespec build haha.

 

[thaeber]

Yes. I am a little concerned it could rotate.

I did peen punch dents into the ends of the bushs so they had some grip when sandwiched into the mounts.

I do like your idea of a small screw or pin even to locate the one inside the yoke. I will see if that's possible when I'm next working on the bike.

If it does become a problem. It is very easy to simply lock the travel out to 60mm and put standard bushings in. I may even do that anyways. I really don't think I'm gonna use all the travel with the 550# cane creek progressive spring in there. It feels firm. Alot firmer than my regular 550# rockshox spring in the other bike.

Great idea to peen punch the bushing face! I run the 450-550 CC progressive spring on my E10, at 90kg plus gear, appr. 30% SAG and almost no bottom out. Confirm Your impression, spring feels firmer than rating!

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Great idea to peen punch the bushing face! I run the 450-550 CC progressive spring on my E10, at 90kg plus gear, appr. 30% SAG and almost no bottom out. Confirm Your impression, spring feels firmer than rating!

The spring might just need breaking in. A few good sends to loosen it up haha

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Just spotted this build.

Curious, the video title refers to a E23 (I.e. the Fatbike variant). However, I wasnt aware that you can get the Schwalbe Eddy Current's in a fatbike standard.

Still, a Sram axis drivetrain, 4pot XTR's and a Fox x2

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Finally recieved the battery yesterday.

Hurry up christini spider and e13 cranks.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Just spotted this build.

Curious, the video title refers to a E23 (I.e. the Fatbike variant). However, I wasnt aware that you can get the Schwalbe Eddy Current's in a fatbike standard.

Still, a Sram axis drivetrain, 4pot XTR's and a Fox x2

Pretty sure that's a e22 rear end. The e23 are really wide to account for a fat tyre / hub.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Hallelujah!!!!

Bafang DZ41 Display - CAN Protocol​

A possible candidate for the best emtb optimised display for the Bafang CANBus protocol.

￡16.99 | Bafang E-bike HDMI Display DZ41 For Bafang BBS01/BB02/BBSHD/G520/G521/G332 M500 M600 Motor Bafang CAN Protocol

Bafang E-bike 1.8/3.5 inch LCD TFT Display For BBS01/BB02/BBSHD/M400/M500/M600/M620 Bafang Motor CAN Protocol - AliExpress 18

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

I'll keep on the look out for other ways to get this display for those who don't wish to use Aliexpress or Alibaba (Hopefully, Green Bike Kits can source these as an option).

I'll keep you posted how the display performs compared too

The Shimano Steps rip-off

 

[BonBond]

Hey Neeko, great thread.

Where did you source the UART motor? I'm about to pull the trigger on an E22 build, but only managing to find CANBUS 620s...want UART for configurability, but close to giving up on that dream....am I going to to regret that, or am I over thinking the potential problems?

Random question, but what brake levers are you using, ones with built in cut-outs or are you using after-market sensors and magnets? Also, have you installed a shift sensor?

Cheers

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

Hey Neeko, great thread.

Where did you source the UART motor? I'm about to pull the trigger on an E22 build, but only managing to find CANBUS 620s...want UART for configurability, but close to giving up on that dream....am I going to to regret that, or am I over thinking the potential problems?

Random question, but what brake levers are you using, ones with built in cut-outs or are you using after-market sensors and magnets? Also, have you installed a shift sensor?

Cheers

I dont think the non CAN display models are available anymore. Dengfu/Melody told me that they can only get CAN display models now.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Hey Neeko, great thread.

Where did you source the UART motor? I'm about to pull the trigger on an E22 build, but only managing to find CANBUS 620s...want UART for configurability, but close to giving up on that dream....am I going to to regret that, or am I over thinking the potential problems?

Random question, but what brake levers are you using, ones with built in cut-outs or are you using after-market sensors and magnets? Also, have you installed a shift sensor?

Cheers

Apologies for the delay @BonBond.

Bafang Electric Bike Motor G510/M620 48V 1000W - Replacement E-Bike Motor Part - Titan Pro

A replacement electric motor for the Bafang electric bike.

www.titan-pro.co.uk

Titan Pro is the best place to source the UART protocol M620 motors in the UK.
Give them a call and speak with Charlie or any member of their team. They have plenty available

As for the brakes,

They are the Meroco 4pot brakes (mineral oil). The calipers are similar to the Tektro Orions or Clark M4s.
The levers are similar to Shimano Deore (so they can use I-spec).
I did have to buy a longer brake hose for my Large frame and re-bleed the brakes. But I swapped out the stock resin pads and went with sintered for consistency.
The rotors are Shimano 205mm. With the Shimano 205mm brake adapter.
Overall, they're not bad for the price.

MTB Bike Front Rear Cycling 4 Piston Oil Disc Set Bicycle Hydraulic Disc Brake | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MTB Bike Front Rear Cycling 4 Piston Oil Disc Set Bicycle Hydraulic Disc Brake at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

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You could swap the levers to use the cut off style fairly easily as the as the olive screw is identical in thread pitch to Shimano levers.

Pardon our interruption...

But I haven't felt the need to rely on motor cut off brakes for the E22.

Let me know if you have any questions

 

[Sebek]

m620 with 38t m600

 

[BonBond]

Apologies for the delay @BonBond.

Bafang Electric Bike Motor G510/M620 48V 1000W - Replacement E-Bike Motor Part - Titan Pro

A replacement electric motor for the Bafang electric bike.

www.titan-pro.co.uk

Titan Pro is the best place to source the UART protocol M620 motors in the UK.
Give them a call and speak with Charlie or any member of their team. They have plenty available

As for the brakes,
View attachment 90523 View attachment 90524 View attachment 90525
They are the Meroco 4pot brakes (mineral oil). The calipers are similar to the Tektro Orions or Clark M4s.
The levers are similar to Shimano Deore (so they can use I-spec).
I did have to buy a longer brake hose for my Large frame and re-bleed the brakes. But I swapped out the stock resin pads and went with sintered for consistency.
The rotors are Shimano 205mm. With the Shimano 205mm brake adapter.
Overall, they're not bad for the price.

MTB Bike Front Rear Cycling 4 Piston Oil Disc Set Bicycle Hydraulic Disc Brake | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MTB Bike Front Rear Cycling 4 Piston Oil Disc Set Bicycle Hydraulic Disc Brake at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

You could swap the levers to use the cut off style fairly easily as the as the olive screw is identical in thread pitch to Shimano levers.

Pardon our interruption...

But I haven't felt the need to rely on motor cut off brakes for the E22.

Let me know if you have any questions

Thanks Neeko, great tips and a few more links for my spreadsheet!

Titan Pro seem to be a fair bit more expensive than sourcing M620 kit from China (unsurprisingly I guess) , £650 for the motor alone, I'll be needing all the other bits too....

I'm not sure if I'm worrying too much about UART/CAN, wondering if I'm getting myself in a tizz unnecessarily, some perspective on that would be appreciated.

No motor cut outs on brakes? I'm surprised by that, but I'm coming from a BBSHD place now, which I'd be scared to ride without that failsafe. I assume you're not using a shift sensor either?

 

[Mayners]

Does anybody have a curve of the E22 Linkage?
My Suspension Guy ask for it because he should tune my Suspension for the e22.
WattWagon only can say the e22 is middly progressive...

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Looking good @Sebek
Your E22 was the first one I ever saw on YouTube.

@BonBond, I do understand your concerns for running the brake cut offs.
The reason why I don't is to eliminate as many cables protruding out of the headtube. But I would definitely recommend running 4pot brakes on the E22. Notwithstanding (similar to the BBSHD), the UART M620 motor's can be programmed. But the option is there to run brake cut offs additionally.
I do appreciate that Titan Pro might be slightly more compared to other outlets for buying the M620 motor. But they are located in the UK.

@Mayners, apologies. I suspect you've asked your above question before. Please bare with me. I did get that information. I'll upload it to the thread shortly

 

[Mayners]

@Neeko DeVinchi

My first quastion about the e22 was about the rear travel. I was wondering that you say the e22 can not be over stroke to get more rear travel than 150mm. Now I ask about the linkage curve because my Suspension Guy need it to tune my dpx2/ dhx2.. Cant find anythink, only WattWagon has saniy that the linkage is middly progressive..

 

[BonBond]

Looking good @Sebek
Your E22 was the first one I ever saw on YouTube.

@BonBond, I do understand your concerns for running the brake cut offs.
The reason why I don't is to eliminate as many cables protruding out of the headtube. But I would definitely recommend running 4pot brakes on the E22. Notwithstanding (similar to the BBSHD), the UART M620 motor's can be programmed. But the option is there to run brake cut offs additionally.
I do appreciate that Titan Pro might be slightly more compared to other outlets for buying the M620 motor. But they are located in the UK.

@Mayners, apologies. I suspect you've asked your above question before. Please bare with me. I did get that information. I'll upload it to the thread shortly

Thanks again Neeko.

 

[bram.biesiekierski]

@Neeko DeVinchi

My first quastion about the e22 was about the rear travel. I was wondering that you say the e22 can not be over stroke to get more rear travel than 150mm. Now I ask about the linkage curve because my Suspension Guy need it to tune my dpx2/ dhx2.. Cant find anythink, only WattWagon has saniy that the linkage is middly progressive..

You can over stroke the E22. With a 230x65 shock, and using offset bushings to increase the effectiveness eye to eye distance. I have checked this, and there is enough clearance on the frame to do so.

But by using the offset bushings in a position that increases the eye tot eye, you run the risk that they rotate under the pressure through the shock, to a different posistion, which would cause issues. A d the bushings would likely need to be pinned to stop rotation, or regularily checked to ensure they are in correct orientation.

 

[Cigales]

@Cigales I worked out the details for my 52v 780wh 40A BMS battery with [email protected].. Am very pleased with the service, shipping and results. Tell him LeftCoast eBike sent you!

Hello @Mabman
I've got a quote for the battery from Herbert but the price seems kinda cheap. I'm happy as it's a good price, but I thought I would check with you. What do you think?

• 52V 15Ah with 2A charger: USD235
  • Air shipping: USD 115
  • Train shipping: USD 59
• 52V 15Ah with 3A charger: USD 244
  • Air shipping: USD 125
  • Train shipping: USD 68

 

[Mabman]

Hello @Mabman
I've got a quote for the battery from Herbert but the price seems kinda cheap. I'm happy as it's a good price, but I thought I would check with you. What do you think?

• 52V 15Ah with 2A charger: USD235
  • Air shipping: USD 115
  • Train shipping: USD 59
• 52V 15Ah with 3A charger: USD 244
  • Air shipping: USD 125
  • Train shipping: USD 68

That is what I paid for mine. Cheap is only relative to what the "big" boys charge.....Just to check that is for the 2170 cell/40A BMS?

 

[Mayners]

You can over stroke the E22. With a 230x65 shock, and using offset bushings to increase the effectiveness eye to eye distance. I have checked this, and there is enough clearance on the frame to do so.

But by using the offset bushings in a position that increases the eye tot eye, you run the risk that they rotate under the pressure through the shock, to a different posistion, which would cause issues. A d the bushings would likely need to be pinned to stop rotation, or regularily checked to ensure they are in correct orientation.

I know that you can overstroke I also run 230x62.5 but @Neeko DeVinchi says its allways the same travel.

 

[Mayners]

I whant to know the linkage curve of the e22 because my Suspension Guy whant to tune my Suspension... So does anybody have the curve of the E22 linkage?